Two Months North of Ordinary, Part I

In February 2026, we spent a month in the small town of Ninga, Manitoba. Our goal was to photograph snowy owls, and over the four weeks, we spotted 28. We had such an extraordinary time – and the Airbnb that TG found was so perfect for us – that we decided to go back in late summer for six more weeks.

You can find the Country Corner Stay Airbnb listing here:

https://www.airbnb.ca/rooms/42815570?

We chose August through mid-September to return as I had already booked a trip with a friend: five days in Churchill to see and photograph beluga whales. With the cost of airfare, it made financial sense for TG to drive us to the Via Rail station in Winnipeg while he stayed back in Ninga with Oscar and Maddie. You can read all about Deb’s and my adventure, Singing Tides Beneath the Long Light, by scrolling down to the end of this blog.

Deb & me in Churchill, Manitoba

Ninga is about 1,800 miles from our home. I don’t usually share much about our travel days since we mostly stop just to stretch our legs.

we mostly stop just to stretch our legs (and sleep!)

Still, we often end up finding interesting spots along the way, whether we plan it or not. On past trips, we’ve come across the Dignity statue in Chamberlain, SD and Elvis’s birthplace in Tupelo, MS—both pleasant surprises.

This trip was no different. When we realized we were just two miles from the Buddy Holly memorial, we decided to pay our respects to “the day the music died.” In February 1959, the plane carrying Buddy Holly, Richie Valens, and the Big Bopper crashed in a corn field near Clear Lake, Iowa. We left a pair of sunglasses at the giant, horn-rimmed glasses memorial and sang a bit of “American Pie” before continuing on our way.

our visit to the Buddy Holly memorial

While Deb and I were off on our beluga adventure, TG had plans of his own. He wanted to focus on his favorite subject: multi-image panoramas. Before we left home, he had already spent hours researching vintage grain elevators and the best times to photograph them. With Manitoba’s crops nearing harvest, he hoped to capture these “prairie sentinels” and other classic buildings surrounded by vibrant fields.

Throughout the week, he focused on quality over quantity, often spending hours at each location and photographing his subjects from different angles. This gave him plenty of time to wait for the best light and composition.

After I returned from Churchill, we quickly settled into a routine. Each morning, we woke early to catch the sunrise and enjoy the soft light of blue hour. Once the sun was up, we would head home to work on our photos.

If we had enough time, we would go out again in the early evening to catch the warm light of golden hour. Depending on which direction a subject faced, either morning light from the east or evening light from the west provided the best conditions.

When we first arrived in early August, the canola fields were in full bloom, their bright yellow flowers stretching across the landscape.

Someone asked if we had seen any flax, but when we checked, we learned that the season was almost over. Flax flowers are a beautiful periwinkle blue, so we were excited when we came across a small field that was still blooming, right next to a field of bright yellow canola. The combination of blue and yellow was spectacular.

We saw plenty of wildlife while we were out exploring, but most disappeared into the fields almost as soon as we spotted them. Photographing animals was much more challenging than in winter, when there is nowhere for them to hide against the white snow.

By mid-August, the wheat fields had turned to gold and the harvest had begun.

Giant combines moved steadily across the fields, cutting the crops and kicking up enormous clouds of yellow dust.

giant combines moved steadily across the fields

One evening while we were taking photos of the harvest, a farmer stopped to make sure we weren’t having car trouble. When he noticed our cameras, he laughed and said, “I see what you’re doing!”

the farmer drove up just to make sure we were alright

I asked if it was his farm we were photographing and mentioned how beautiful the evening colors were. He said it was, then told us, “That is my 72-year-old father running the combine and my 14-year-old son driving the tractor.” We had arrived at the perfect time to watch the combine pour freshly harvested wheat into the cart.

By late August, much of the wheat had been cut, and large hay bales dotted the landscape. Hay production is an important part of Manitoba’s agricultural economy, providing feed for livestock across Canada and supplying export markets around the world.

We watched the fields change over the month. The bright yellow canola flowers gradually gave way to sienna-brown seed pods, a clear sign that their harvest was approaching.

Meanwhile, the corn grew taller each week, and we expected its harvest to begin in mid-September.

the corn grew taller each week!

We found a few surprises along the way, including one that stopped us in our tracks—a sunflower field we spotted on our drive to the twin grain elevators in Napinka. Row after row of towering yellow blooms rolled across the landscape, stretching on for what seemed like forever. And the flowers themselves were huge—many were bigger than my head!

the field went on forever!

We’d always thought of this area as wheat country, but here was a whole different side of the prairie. We learned that Manitoba produces nearly 90% of Canada’s sunflowers, with most oil-type varieties grown for oil and birdseed, while confection-type sunflowers are harvested for human consumption.

Another surprise was a slough that TG spotted on his way to the Cameron grain elevator. It was teeming with wildlife, including a colony of beavers, and we ended up returning to it several times during our stay.

Watching those beavers was truly entertaining and the phrase “busy beaver” is no joke!

this caption writes itself!

Southern Manitoba’s summer weather felt pleasantly cool to us, with nighttime temperatures in the 50s and daytime highs generally in the upper 70s to low 80s. We were lucky to have many clear nights, giving us opportunities to photograph the Milky Way, the partial lunar eclipse, and even catch the aurora on a few nights when solar activity was strong.

One night, TG woke to the sound of a thunderstorm. He quickly grabbed his tripod and ran outside to photograph lightning bolts flashing across the prairie.

The Airbnb sits on Railway Street, a fitting name for a road that runs alongside the railroad tracks. Back in February we heard a train whistle just once.

looking east towards Ninga

But by harvest season the freight trains had become part of our daily rhythm. We loved hearing the clickety-clack of the wheels as they rumbled past, and whenever we heard those long, distant whistles, we would grab our cameras and dash outside to catch a glimpse.

There was something wonderfully nostalgic about watching the trains roll by, connecting our quiet little Country Corner to somewhere beyond the horizon.

There was something wonderfully nostalgic about watching the trains roll by

Back in the day, there was a small café next door to our Airbnb and although it is now closed, a group of locals still gathers there on Thursday and Saturday mornings. If we were around, we’d stop by and join the conversation over a cup of coffee. One of those visits led to an invitation to watch “roping”—the traditional practice of catching an animal with a lasso.

Historically, roping was a practical skill used by cowboys to manage cattle. While it’s still an important part of ranching today, roping has also become a competitive sport and recreational activity.

We spent two Wednesday evenings visiting with the adults while watching as the kids practiced their roping skills. There was a real sense of community, and we want to say a special Thank You to hosts Paul and Gloria for welcoming us into it.

The International Peace Garden, created in 1932 to promote friendship between Canada and the U.S., sits along the Manitoba–North Dakota border, about a 30-minute drive from Ninga. On September 11, the Garden hosted a 25th anniversary memorial service—and hundreds gathered to not only remember the 9/11 terrorist attacks but also affirm the close bonds between Canada and the United States.

It was deeply moving to be at this special place dedicated to peace and to share in the remembrance with neighbors from both sides of the border.

Overall, this trip was different for us. We spent less time searching for wildlife and more time exploring. We often simply drove around, looking for interesting places to photograph and figuring out when we might return for the best light.

We frequented our favorite restaurant, The Burning Bale, chatting with Chef Germain and the other customers about everything from his famous homemade hot sauces and seasonings to travel, the harvest, and whatever else happened to come up.

We went to the movies.

waiting for The Odyssey

Some days we did nothing more ambitious than take a long walk,

we loved saying hello to all the neighborhood horses

Or relax at home, enjoying the peace and quiet of Ninga.

relaxing at home

It was a slower pace than we were used to, and that was perhaps what made this stay so special. August quietly slipped into September, bringing cooler mornings and a hint of fall. Lush green fields faded into soft golds and browns, changing almost imperceptibly from one day to the next. The days grew shorter too, taking away some of our early morning light and those long, golden evenings.

Even the animals seemed to know the season was turning, trading their brown summer coats for winter white.

this jackrabbit’s summer brown coat was starting to show traces of winter white

Everywhere we looked, the landscape reminded us that nothing stays the same—and that there is beauty in slowing down and letting go.

sunrise at the beaver slough

And so, as the season turns, we’re saying goodbye to Ninga. From here the road takes us to Riding Mountain National Park, where we’ll spend a week before slowly making our way home. We’ll trade quiet country roads and open fields for forests, lakes, and whatever wildlife happens to cross our path. But there are still miles to go, and our journey isn’t over yet. So, check back soon for Two Months North of Ordinary, Part II.

Riding Mountain National Park, July 2024

You can view all of the photos from our six weeks in Ninga by clicking on the Flickr links below.

TG (including multi-image panoramas):

ninga aurora pano 09082026-3-DeNoiseAI-low-light-SharpenAI-Focus
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JET:

Ninga early morning
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Singing Tides Beneath the Long Light

Churchill, Manitoba is known as the “Polar Bear Capitol of the World” and with good reason. Every autumn, when ice starts to form on Hudson Bay, some 650 polar bears congregate on the shoreline. In November of 2024, I spent a week at the Churchill Northern Studies Center, learning about and photographing these magnificent animals.

polar bear on the Hudson Bay shoreline, November 2024

But there’s more to Churchill than polar bears. The town is right under the aurora oval, making it one of the best spots to see the Northern Lights. You can catch them almost 300 nights a year!

Northern Lights, November 2024

And it doesn’t stop there. Hudson Bay is home to nearly 60,000 beluga whales. For most of the year, they reside in inaccessible areas with extreme cold.  But for a short period each summer, they come into the shallow waters around Hudson Bay to breed, give birth, and socialize. 

Sea North Beluga Zodiac Tour, August 2026

It was the opportunity to see these “canaries of the sea” that brought me back for a second visit in August 2026. Since TG wasn’t interested, I asked my friend Deb to join me.

Deb & me, Napinka MB, August 2026

We planned our itinerary to get the most out of our trip while still having enough energy to enjoy each day. Since the beluga tours are tide dependent, we booked those first and then filled in our remaining time with land safaris to look for polar bears and other wildlife. We also hoped to see Northern Lights, so we joined the “Aurora Call List.” With a small deposit, we’d get a wake-up call if they showed up.

our itinerary

There is no easy way to get to Churchill. We could fly via Calm Air, the only airline serving Churchill, but tickets are pricey. Or we could take VIA Rail’s train, which departs from Winnipeg twice weekly and takes about 45 hours to arrive. To keep our costs low, we opted for the train.

train route from Winnipeg to Churchill

And so, on the morning of Sunday, August 9, TG drove us from our Airbnb in Ninga to Union Station in Winnipeg to catch the 12:05 train to Churchill. This train would be our home for the next two days.

Union Station, August 9, 2026

A 45-hour train ride takes some planning, especially if you’re in economy seats the whole way. The food for sale was limited, so we brought our own meals. We also packed pillows, blankets, comfy clothes, and plenty of books and games. But the scenery was so engaging we spent most of our time looking out the window, sitting in the dome car, and chatting with fellow travelers.

the dome car

Heavy rains had washed out tracks between Winnipeg and Thompson, so we detoured onto the main freight line. This delayed us a bit, but we still arrived in Churchill at 11:00am on Tuesday morning.

August 2026 washout, photo courtesy of CN Railway

Churchill is home to many large murals, created during the 2017 Sea Walls project. Artists came from around the world to paint them, and each mural tells a story about climate change, ocean protection, or the town itself.

After checking into our cozy room at Caribou Cottage, we were on our way. We began with a Discover Churchill tour, expecting to see all the murals. But our guide, Alex, surprised us by telling us about polar bears just outside town. In the first hour, he spotted five: two adults and a mother with two cubs. We also saw sandhill cranes, a snowshoe hare, bald eagles, plus many of the murals and other landmarks. Our week was off to a great start!

We spent our second morning on another wildlife tour, this time with Nanuk Operations. We first watched a bear on the rocks near town, then headed east after our guide Caleb got a tip. There, we found another mother polar bear with her two COYs (cubs born this winter, called “cubs of the year”) on a beluga whale carcass. They were pretty far away—too far for my long lens—but I still managed to get a few shots with my old P900.

Wildlife tours are similar everywhere. Guides drive slowly, searching for animals and sometimes sharing tips with each other. This tour was no different. We saw six polar bears, bald eagles, some snow geese, and a family of beautiful Pacific loons.

On Wednesday, August 12, we received the following email: “The forecast for tonight is favorable to potentially see the aurora and it coincides with a meteor shower! This email is to confirm your spot on our northern lights call list. Please remember to turn your ringer on and make sure your phone is NOT set to “do not disturb.”

With high hopes, we readied our cameras and tripods. Sure enough, the “Go” call came at 10:45. Alex picked us up at 11:15 and drove us to the Miss Piggy plane wreck, an iconic Churchill landmark.

Aurora over Miss Piggy

We spent almost two hours watching the sky shimmer and dance. We oohed and aahed as green ribbons turned into arches, then into big tornado shapes before twisting back into ribbons. Meteors shot across the sky in every direction.

It was everything we had dreamed of.

photo courtesy of David Sandford, Discover Churchill Tours

In mid-August, Churchill enjoys long days, with sunrise around 5:30 am and sunset near 9:00 pm. The extra daylight lets you take tours well into the evening. Our first zodiac tour started at 6:30 pm.

We booked three beluga tours over the week: one in the evening, one at 8 am, and another at 10:30 am. The changing tides let us take both above-water and underwater photos in different lighting. Still, photographing whales in green water from a moving zodiac was much harder than I expected!

Sea North Beluga Zodiac Tour August 2026 (GoPro screen grab)

Our guides taught us a lot about these amazing animals as we cruised along the Churchill River. For example, belugas communicate with a whole repertoire of sounds and even have names for each other!

canaries of the sea! (video by Deb, August 2026)

On our second tour, someone spotted a bear across the river, so we went to see it before returning to the whales.

August 2026

Our final tour was truly memorable. We left at 10:30 and right away saw another bear on the opposite shore. After watching him for a few minutes, we went back to the belugas. They were everywhere, but none came close to our boat.

August 2026

We’d heard that music might attract them, and Kathy, a fellow passenger, had brought along a small underwater microphone. She started with Beethoven, but the belugas didn’t react. Next, she tried ABBA’s “Dancing Queen,” then the Bee Gees, followed by a Vivaldi violin concerto, but still nothing.

Thank you, Kathy! (center back)

Finally, she played Andean pan flute music, and suddenly the whales came in droves.

Sea North Beluga Zodiac tour, August 2026

A pod of 10 to 15 belugas followed us for over 45 minutes, giving everyone plenty of chances for both topside and underwater photos.

This is a remarkable time in the lives of these beautiful, wild creatures, and being allowed such an intimate view was mind-blowing.

That afternoon, we changed things up and joined Discover Churchill for a hike to the SS Ithaka. This ship ran aground during a fierce storm in 1960. It sits about 600 meters offshore, and at low tide you can hike out to it.

It took us about 45 minutes to pick our way across the tide pools and rocks littering the ocean floor, but standing under the impressive wreck made it all worthwhile.

We booked our final two wildlife tours with Sub-Arctic. Thanks to the long days, we went out one evening, which turned out to be another highlight. As the sun set, the animals became more active, and we watched a mother and her two cubs swimming and playing in Hudson Bay.

We saw another mother and two cubs resting on the rocks above us. While we watched, a young male walked up from far down the beach.

As he grew closer, our guide Stanley said, “The mom will chase him away,” but instead, she simply got up and moved her cubs. Later, when we looked at our photos, we noticed a fresh scratch on her nose and guessed she didn’t want another fight.

looking at our photos we noticed a fresh scratch on her nose

Our last tour was on Saturday, our departure day. In the first half-hour, we saw a mother with two cubs swim across the bay and then scramble up the rocky hillside, and bit further along, a single male polar bear.

this mom and two cubs swam across the bay and then scrambled up the rocky hillside

After that, things got quiet. It was warm—temperatures reached 72 degrees, which is too hot for much activity on the tundra. Stanley took us deep into the boreal forest toward Twin Lakes.

Stanley took us deep into the boreal forest

We didn’t see any wildlife, but the scenery was beautiful,

And we spotted several half-buried rockets left from the 1950s launch site.

As we headed back towards town, we spotted a beautiful juvi bald eagle who posed for a few photos before flying away.

juvenile bald eagle

Just when we thought our trip was over, something caught my eye. As soon as I thought “bear,” Stanley noticed her, too. Another bear. With one—no, two cubs!

Across the ridge, another bear with two more cubs! And yet another coming towards the three on the ridge!

another mom and two cubs across the ridge!

Seven bears from the same spot, and for 20 minutes, the only sound was the clicking of our cameras.

what a great ending to our stay in Churchill!

Tired but happy, we went back to Caribou Cottage to pack up and get an early dinner before our journey home.

While waiting on the platform to board the train to Winnipeg, we saw several familiar faces. Michael and Lena, the honeymooners from Austria who traveled up with us, and we had run into several times during the week, were there. We also recognized other people from the train north or from our tours.

The idea of spending two days on the train each way seemed daunting, but the trip was enjoyable. I never even opened my Kindle because the scenery was so interesting. Sleeping in economy seats wasn’t comfortable, but it was worth it for the money we saved and the extra tours we could take in Churchill. I took photos from the train and made a short video: 47 hours condensed into 90 seconds.

If you’re thinking about taking the train, my advice is to build in an extra day or two. Our train to Churchill was only two hours late, but on the way back to Winnipeg, we were delayed by track repairs. We sat in one spot for six hours, and by the time we reached Union Station, it was close to midnight, and we were over eight hours late.

Still, the Via Rail staff did everything they could to make us comfortable. They provided a free dinner, more Oreo cookies than we could eat, left the doors open so we could step outside for fresh air, and kept us as updated as possible.

TG was following our progress online, so we decided he should head back to Ninga and pick us up the next morning, while Deb and I booked a hotel in Winnipeg. There were several people on our train with early morning flights and no choice but to head straight to the airport.

Humphry Inn & Suites, Winnipeg (internet photo)

Caribou Cottage was the perfect place for our stay. We shared a big kitchen, common area, and two bathrooms with four guest bedrooms. It was quiet but still close to the tour offices, restaurants, and grocery stores. Roy, our host, was easy-going and quick to respond. We spent the week with Thomas, Ruxandra & Sebastian, and Ramon & Getty—all friendly and courteous world travelers. You can find Caribou Cottage on Airbnb and Booking.com.

We went to Churchill for the belugas but got so much more. We saw hundreds of whales, spotted polar bears 41 times, and enjoyed one amazing night of aurora—the “Churchill Trifecta.”

Deb, fellow traveler Ivy, and me

We also saw beautiful scenery and met wonderful people, both locals and fellow travelers.

Via Rail service manager, Len

As we drove back to Ninga, I reflected on our week and everything we experienced. The belugas danced in the green water below us, and the aurora danced in the green sky above, making our time in Churchill truly magical.

Our time in Churchill was truly magical

You can see all my photos from our Churchill Trifeca on the Flickr link below:

inukshuk
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