Two Months North of Ordinary, Part I

In February 2026, we spent a month in the small town of Ninga, Manitoba. Our goal was to photograph snowy owls, and over the four weeks, we spotted 28. We had such an extraordinary time – and the Airbnb that TG found was so perfect for us – that we decided to go back in late summer for six more weeks.

You can find the Country Corner Stay Airbnb listing here:

https://www.airbnb.ca/rooms/42815570?

We chose August through mid-September to return as I had already booked a trip with a friend: five days in Churchill to see and photograph beluga whales. With the cost of airfare, it made financial sense for TG to drive us to the Via Rail station in Winnipeg while he stayed back in Ninga with Oscar and Maddie. You can read all about Deb’s and my adventure, Singing Tides Beneath the Long Light, by scrolling down to the end of this blog.

Deb & me in Churchill, Manitoba

Ninga is about 1,800 miles from our home. I don’t usually share much about our travel days since we mostly stop just to stretch our legs.

we mostly stop just to stretch our legs (and sleep!)

Still, we often end up finding interesting spots along the way, whether we plan it or not. On past trips, we’ve come across the Dignity statue in Chamberlain, SD and Elvis’s birthplace in Tupelo, MS—both pleasant surprises.

This trip was no different. When we realized we were just two miles from the Buddy Holly memorial, we decided to pay our respects to “the day the music died.” In February 1959, the plane carrying Buddy Holly, Richie Valens, and the Big Bopper crashed in a corn field near Clear Lake, Iowa. We left a pair of sunglasses at the giant, horn-rimmed glasses memorial and sang a bit of “American Pie” before continuing on our way.

our visit to the Buddy Holly memorial

While Deb and I were off on our beluga adventure, TG had plans of his own. He wanted to focus on his favorite subject: multi-image panoramas. Before we left home, he had already spent hours researching vintage grain elevators and the best times to photograph them. With Manitoba’s crops nearing harvest, he hoped to capture these “prairie sentinels” and other classic buildings surrounded by vibrant fields.

Throughout the week, he focused on quality over quantity, often spending hours at each location and photographing his subjects from different angles. This gave him plenty of time to wait for the best light and composition.

After I returned from Churchill, we quickly settled into a routine. Each morning, we woke early to catch the sunrise and enjoy the soft light of blue hour. Once the sun was up, we would head home to work on our photos.

If we had enough time, we would go out again in the early evening to catch the warm light of golden hour. Depending on which direction a subject faced, either morning light from the east or evening light from the west provided the best conditions.

When we first arrived in early August, the canola fields were in full bloom, their bright yellow flowers stretching across the landscape.

Someone asked if we had seen any flax, but when we checked, we learned that the season was almost over. Flax flowers are a beautiful periwinkle blue, so we were excited when we came across a small field that was still blooming, right next to a field of bright yellow canola. The combination of blue and yellow was spectacular.

We saw plenty of wildlife while we were out exploring, but most disappeared into the fields almost as soon as we spotted them. Photographing animals was much more challenging than in winter, when there is nowhere for them to hide against the white snow.

By mid-August, the wheat fields had turned to gold and the harvest had begun.

Giant combines moved steadily across the fields, cutting the crops and kicking up enormous clouds of yellow dust.

giant combines moved steadily across the fields

One evening while we were taking photos of the harvest, a farmer stopped to make sure we weren’t having car trouble. When he noticed our cameras, he laughed and said, “I see what you’re doing!

the farmer drove up just to make sure we were alright

I asked if it was his farm we were photographing and mentioned how beautiful the evening colors were. He said it was, then told us, “That is my 72-year-old father running the combine and my 14-year-old son driving the tractor.” We had arrived at the perfect time to watch the combine pour freshly harvested wheat into the cart.

By late August, much of the wheat had been cut, and large hay bales dotted the landscape. Hay production is an important part of Manitoba’s agricultural economy, providing feed for livestock across Canada and supplying export markets around the world.

We watched the fields change over the month. The bright yellow canola flowers gradually gave way to sienna-brown seed pods, a clear sign that their harvest was approaching.

Meanwhile, the corn grew taller each week, and we expected its harvest to begin in mid-September.

the corn grew taller each week!

We found a few surprises along the way, including one that stopped us in our tracks—a sunflower field we spotted on our drive to the twin grain elevators in Napinka. Row after row of towering yellow blooms rolled across the landscape, stretching on for what seemed like forever. And the flowers themselves were huge—many were bigger than my head!

the field went on forever!

We’d always thought of this area as wheat country, but here was a whole different side of the prairie. We learned that Manitoba produces nearly 90% of Canada’s sunflowers, with most oil-type varieties grown for oil and birdseed, while confection-type sunflowers are harvested for human consumption.

Another surprise was a slough that TG spotted on his way to the Cameron grain elevator. It was teeming with wildlife, including a colony of beavers, and we ended up returning to it several times during our stay.

Watching those beavers was truly entertaining and the phrase “busy beaver” is no joke!

this caption writes itself!

Southern Manitoba’s summer weather felt pleasantly cool to us, with nighttime temperatures in the 50s and daytime highs generally in the upper 70s to low 80s. We were lucky to have many clear nights, giving us opportunities to photograph the Milky Way, the partial lunar eclipse, and even catch the aurora on a few nights when solar activity was strong.

One night, TG woke to the sound of a thunderstorm. He quickly grabbed his tripod and ran outside to photograph lightning bolts flashing across the prairie.

The Airbnb sits on Railway Street, a fitting name for a road that runs alongside the railroad tracks. Back in February we heard a train whistle just once.

looking east towards Ninga

But by harvest season the freight trains had become part of our daily rhythm. We loved hearing the clickety-clack of the wheels as they rumbled past, and whenever we heard those long, distant whistles, we would grab our cameras and dash outside to catch a glimpse.

There was something wonderfully nostalgic about watching the trains roll by, connecting our quiet little Country Corner to somewhere beyond the horizon.

There was something wonderfully nostalgic about watching the trains roll by

Back in the day, there was a small café next door to our Airbnb and although it is now closed, a group of locals still gathers there on Thursday and Saturday mornings. If we were around, we’d stop by and join the conversation over a cup of coffee. One of those visits led to an invitation to watch “roping”—the traditional practice of catching an animal with a lasso.

Historically, roping was a practical skill used by cowboys to manage cattle. While it’s still an important part of ranching today, roping has also become a competitive sport and recreational activity.

We spent two Wednesday evenings visiting with the adults while watching as the kids practiced their roping skills. There was a real sense of community, and we want to say a special Thank You to hosts Paul and Gloria for welcoming us into it.

The International Peace Garden, created in 1932 to promote friendship between Canada and the U.S., sits along the Manitoba–North Dakota border, about a 30-minute drive from Ninga. On September 11, the Garden hosted a 25th anniversary memorial service—and hundreds gathered to not only remember the 9/11 terrorist attacks but also affirm the close bonds between Canada and the United States.

It was deeply moving to be at this special place dedicated to peace and to share in the remembrance with neighbors from both sides of the border.

Overall, this trip was different for us. We spent less time searching for wildlife and more time exploring. We often simply drove around, looking for interesting places to photograph and figuring out when we might return for the best light.

We frequented our favorite restaurant, The Burning Bale, chatting with Chef Germain and the other customers about everything from his famous homemade hot sauces and seasonings to travel, the harvest, and whatever else happened to come up.

We went to the movies.

waiting for The Odyssey

Some days we did nothing more ambitious than take a long walk,

we loved saying hello to all the neighborhood horses

Or relax at home, enjoying the peace and quiet of Ninga.

relaxing at home

It was a slower pace than we were used to, and that was perhaps what made this stay so special. August quietly slipped into September, bringing cooler mornings and a hint of fall. Lush green fields faded into soft golds and browns, changing almost imperceptibly from one day to the next. The days grew shorter too, taking away some of our early morning light and those long, golden evenings.

Even the animals seemed to know the season was turning, trading their brown summer coats for winter white.

this jackrabbit’s summer brown coat was starting to show traces of winter white

Everywhere we looked, the landscape reminded us that nothing stays the same—and that there is beauty in slowing down and letting go.

sunrise at the beaver slough

And so, as the season turns, we’re saying goodbye to Ninga. From here the road takes us to Riding Mountain National Park, where we’ll spend a week before slowly making our way home. We’ll trade quiet country roads and open fields for forests, lakes, and whatever wildlife happens to cross our path. But there are still miles to go, and our journey isn’t over yet. So, check back soon for Two Months North of Ordinary, Part II.

Riding Mountain National Park, July 2024

You can view all of the photos from our six weeks in Ninga by clicking on the Flickr links below.

TG (including multi-image panoramas):

ninga barn pano 08152026-5-DeNoiseAI-low-light-SharpenAI-Focus
arrow through the set or click on any image to open a new tab in Flickr

JET:

Ninga early morning
arrow through the set or click on any image to open a new tab in Flickr

Embrace the Cold, Live the Adventure!

In 2022, 23, and 24, we traveled to Northern Minnesota’s Sax Zim Bog in the middle of winter to photograph owls. We always had a magical time and were fortunate to see everything from great grays hunting in the snow to a playful mink who seemed to enjoy posing for us as much as we enjoyed photographing her.

With Uganda already on our 2025 travel schedule, we were unable to make a trip north that winter. Unfortunate timing for us, as it was an “irruption year,” a rare event that occurs when there is a sudden increase in the population of certain owl species, including great grays.

SZB Bird & Wildlife Report, February 17, 2025

We hoped for the best in 2026, but by mid-January, it was clear that this winter was nothing like the last. Sightings of any owls were scarce, and great grays were non-existent.

It didn’t make sense for us to travel all that way only to be disappointed. We felt that by going further north, we might have better luck with our wildlife sightings, so TG found an affordable Airbnb in the small town of Ninga, Manitoba.

Bethany’s Country Corner Stay was a charming duplex and perfectly suited our needs.

You can find her listing here:

Country Corner Stay – Apartments for Rent in Turtle Mountain, Manitoba, Canada – Airbnb

Ninga was very cold!

The forecast called for warmer temps in the coming weeks, so on our first full day, we made a quick grocery run to Brandon and then stayed close to home. Still, on that first drive we saw a red fox running across a snowy field, several white-tailed deer, flocks of snow buntings, a magpie, and, to our delight, a snowy owl. The area seemed promising! We also took a few walks around the tiny village of Ninga:  population 45.

We quickly settled into a routine. Every morning, we woke early and planned our photo safaris. Since we were in snowy owl country, we were confident we’d have good luck no matter which road we took. Over the four weeks, we saw 28 snowy owls.

As a local said, “This is wheat country, and where there is wheat, there are rodents. And where there are rodents, there are owls!”

While searching for owls, we also hoped to photograph other prairie birds such as gray partridges, snow buntings, and grouse.

gray partridge

We wanted to get close-up photos of the red foxes we saw running through the fields,

red fox at dusk

And maybe even spot a moose or two.

moose cow & calf at sunrise (with a tip of the hat to Bullwinkle J. Moose)

The cold weather meant we stuck to driving safaris. Even though we planned our routes each day,

We often ended up turning onto side roads. That was part of the fun and led to some unexpected adventures!

Based on eBird sightings, we had reliable intel of a great horned owl on a nest in Winnipeg, about a three-hour drive from Ninga. I wanted to check out the Via Rail train station anyway, so we made a day trip out of it.

We didn’t have any luck finding the GHO that day, even with help from a friendly local named Ray—“as in Ray of Sunshine.” But we did hike over 10,000 steps, which felt great after long days of sitting in the car. Our other sightings made up for it: lots of beautiful birds in the park, and on our drive, a cooperative red fox, five coyotes, big herds of white-tailed deer, and four snowy owls!

Two weeks later, we learned that the GHO owlets had hatched. With clear directions this time, we drove back to Winnipeg and were delighted to find mama and her two babies in the nest, while papa kept watch from a nearby tree.

And, on our drive, we spotted two more snowys. Altogether, it was a six owl day!

female snowy owl on a power pole

We were almost home when it began to snow. Even though we needed to keep moving, a beautiful rough-legged hawk landed on a pole right in front of us, so we stopped to take a few photos.

rough-legged hawk in snow flurries

Almost daily, a barred owl was listed on E-bird at a park about two hours away. After two failed attempts to locate her, we had given up, unsure if another search was worth it. One night TG received a message from a fellow bird-lover with a map, GPS coordinates, and a recent photo. Armed with that intel, we found her, and she certainly was worth the effort!

Everywhere we went, we were asked if we had seen any elk. “Not yet,” we’d reply. On our drive home that afternoon, we finally saw a large herd standing in a snowy field.

elk herd

We had heard about a screech owl at a park in Winnipeg but weren’t sure we’d be able to make a third trip before heading home. However, a beautiful Monday changed our minds.

another beautiful sunrise drive to Winnipeg

Since we were already in the area, we also decided to check in on the great horned family and say goodbye to the barred owl. On our drives to and from Winnipeg, we spotted four more snowys—three males and a female.

The screech owl was not at home in her tree, but it was still a three-species, nine-owl day!

nobody home!

The International Peace Garden was established in 1932 to promote peace, cooperation, and friendship between the United States and Canada. This 3.65-square-mile botanical garden sits on the border between Canada and North Dakota and features 150,000 flowers, fountains, various structures, and an 18-foot floral clock.

In the winter, there isn’t much to see outside, but the Conservatory was a perfect way to stay warm on a cold day.

At their peak in the 1940’s, there were more than 5,500 wooden grain elevators or “prairie sentinels” across Manitoba.

selfie at Cameron – Manitoba’s oldest grain elevator still on its original site (built in 1902)

But as farms switched to steel silos, the wooden elevators became outdated and costly to maintain. Now, with more lost each year to demolition, fires, or natural disasters, these landmarks are quickly disappearing.

Across the province, only 80 classic wood elevators are still standing. Hoping to preserve some of this history before it is gone forever, we planned our wildlife safaris along routes where TG could capture a few of the old elevators that are still left.

We also stopped to photograph interesting landscapes and other structures while out exploring.

Dodd’s Homestead 1889

March 13 turned out to be an extraordinary day. We didn’t have any specific plans – the snowstorm the prior evening had left many roads too edgy for our low-clearance VW Jetta.

It was blowing like a nor-easter the evening of March 12!

By mid-afternoon, the sun was shining, and TG suggested we pick up dinner from The Burning Bale. While driving, we saw a coyote by the side of the road and then two snowy owls in beautiful afternoon light. On the way back, we spotted two more snowys, bringing the total to four for the day!

male snowy owl

But the true magic happened later that night. A G2 storm bumped the KP index up to 6, and around 10 pm, we went outside to check the sky. The stars were bright, and the Northern Lights shimmered above us. Through our cameras, it glowed a brilliant emerald green. It was too cold to stay out for long, but we were grateful for this unexpected gift from Lady Aurora.

Ninga is about 14 miles from Boissevain (pronounced “boyz-eh-vane”) and was our closest option for gas and groceries.

Tommy the Turtle, Boissevain

The Boissevain-Morton Arts Council (BMAC) was founded in 1990 to develop outdoor murals and promote tourism. More than 20 professional murals now tell the town’s story, several of which were visible each time we drove through.

Welcome to Boissevain – Don’t Miss Our Murals!

So, one day we walked around town to photograph them.

We met so many wonderful people during our visit—our gracious Airbnb hosts, Bethany, her mom Alma, and brother Justin were just the first. Richard recommended quiet roads for spotting moose and other wildlife. At The Burning Bale, Chef Germaine welcomed us with warmth and amazing food.

Chef Germaine, The Burning Bale Restaurant

Gord suggested Rt 245 for a scenic drive home.

30 seconds on scenic Rt 245 (sped up 2x)

And when we mentioned our passion for owls, many locals offered helpful information.

TG with a helpful fellow-birder

Manitoba’s license plate reads “Friendly Manitoba”—and we couldn’t agree more!

With everything going on in the world right now, it’s important to take a break from the chaos once in a while. Manitoba’s wide-open spaces, abundant wildlife, and welcoming community helped us stay grounded and reminded us to look for peace, no matter what life brings.

Aurora over Ninga, March 13, 2026

To view all our photos from our month in Manitoba, click on the Flickr links below:

TG:

grey partridge-3308-DeNoiseAI-standard-SharpenAI-Standard
arrow through set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr

JET:

Snowy Owl (Bubo scandiacus)
arrow through set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr