Two Months North of Ordinary, Part I

In February 2026, we spent a month in the small town of Ninga, Manitoba. Our goal was to photograph snowy owls, and over the four weeks, we spotted 28. We had such an extraordinary time – and the Airbnb that TG found was so perfect for us – that we decided to go back in late summer for six more weeks.

You can find the Country Corner Stay Airbnb listing here:

https://www.airbnb.ca/rooms/42815570?

We chose August through mid-September to return as I had already booked a trip with a friend: five days in Churchill to see and photograph beluga whales. With the cost of airfare, it made financial sense for TG to drive us to the Via Rail station in Winnipeg while he stayed back in Ninga with Oscar and Maddie. You can read all about Deb’s and my adventure, Singing Tides Beneath the Long Light, by scrolling down to the end of this blog.

Deb & me in Churchill, Manitoba

Ninga is about 1,800 miles from our home. I don’t usually share much about our travel days since we mostly stop just to stretch our legs.

we mostly stop just to stretch our legs (and sleep!)

Still, we often end up finding interesting spots along the way, whether we plan it or not. On past trips, we’ve come across the Dignity statue in Chamberlain, SD and Elvis’s birthplace in Tupelo, MS—both pleasant surprises.

This trip was no different. When we realized we were just two miles from the Buddy Holly memorial, we decided to pay our respects to “the day the music died.” In February 1959, the plane carrying Buddy Holly, Richie Valens, and the Big Bopper crashed in a corn field near Clear Lake, Iowa. We left a pair of sunglasses at the giant, horn-rimmed glasses memorial and sang a bit of “American Pie” before continuing on our way.

our visit to the Buddy Holly memorial

While Deb and I were off on our beluga adventure, TG had plans of his own. He wanted to focus on his favorite subject: multi-image panoramas. Before we left home, he had already spent hours researching vintage grain elevators and the best times to photograph them. With Manitoba’s crops nearing harvest, he hoped to capture these “prairie sentinels” and other classic buildings surrounded by vibrant fields.

Throughout the week, he focused on quality over quantity, often spending hours at each location and photographing his subjects from different angles. This gave him plenty of time to wait for the best light and composition.

After I returned from Churchill, we quickly settled into a routine. Each morning, we woke early to catch the sunrise and enjoy the soft light of blue hour. Once the sun was up, we would head home to work on our photos.

If we had enough time, we would go out again in the early evening to catch the warm light of golden hour. Depending on which direction a subject faced, either morning light from the east or evening light from the west provided the best conditions.

When we first arrived in early August, the canola fields were in full bloom, their bright yellow flowers stretching across the landscape.

Someone asked if we had seen any flax, but when we checked, we learned that the season was almost over. Flax flowers are a beautiful periwinkle blue, so we were excited when we came across a small field that was still blooming, right next to a field of bright yellow canola. The combination of blue and yellow was spectacular.

We saw plenty of wildlife while we were out exploring, but most disappeared into the fields almost as soon as we spotted them. Photographing animals was much more challenging than in winter, when there is nowhere for them to hide against the white snow.

By mid-August, the wheat fields had turned to gold and the harvest had begun.

Giant combines moved steadily across the fields, cutting the crops and kicking up enormous clouds of yellow dust.

giant combines moved steadily across the fields

One evening while we were taking photos of the harvest, a farmer stopped to make sure we weren’t having car trouble. When he noticed our cameras, he laughed and said, “I see what you’re doing!

the farmer drove up just to make sure we were alright

I asked if it was his farm we were photographing and mentioned how beautiful the evening colors were. He said it was, then told us, “That is my 72-year-old father running the combine and my 14-year-old son driving the tractor.” We had arrived at the perfect time to watch the combine pour freshly harvested wheat into the cart.

By late August, much of the wheat had been cut, and large hay bales dotted the landscape. Hay production is an important part of Manitoba’s agricultural economy, providing feed for livestock across Canada and supplying export markets around the world.

We watched the fields change over the month. The bright yellow canola flowers gradually gave way to sienna-brown seed pods, a clear sign that their harvest was approaching.

Meanwhile, the corn grew taller each week, and we expected its harvest to begin in mid-September.

the corn grew taller each week!

We found a few surprises along the way, including one that stopped us in our tracks—a sunflower field we spotted on our drive to the twin grain elevators in Napinka. Row after row of towering yellow blooms rolled across the landscape, stretching on for what seemed like forever. And the flowers themselves were huge—many were bigger than my head!

the field went on forever!

We’d always thought of this area as wheat country, but here was a whole different side of the prairie. We learned that Manitoba produces nearly 90% of Canada’s sunflowers, with most oil-type varieties grown for oil and birdseed, while confection-type sunflowers are harvested for human consumption.

Another surprise was a slough that TG spotted on his way to the Cameron grain elevator. It was teeming with wildlife, including a colony of beavers, and we ended up returning to it several times during our stay.

Watching those beavers was truly entertaining and the phrase “busy beaver” is no joke!

this caption writes itself!

Southern Manitoba’s summer weather felt pleasantly cool to us, with nighttime temperatures in the 50s and daytime highs generally in the upper 70s to low 80s. We were lucky to have many clear nights, giving us opportunities to photograph the Milky Way, the partial lunar eclipse, and even catch the aurora on a few nights when solar activity was strong.

One night, TG woke to the sound of a thunderstorm. He quickly grabbed his tripod and ran outside to photograph lightning bolts flashing across the prairie.

The Airbnb sits on Railway Street, a fitting name for a road that runs alongside the railroad tracks. Back in February we heard a train whistle just once.

looking east towards Ninga

But by harvest season the freight trains had become part of our daily rhythm. We loved hearing the clickety-clack of the wheels as they rumbled past, and whenever we heard those long, distant whistles, we would grab our cameras and dash outside to catch a glimpse.

There was something wonderfully nostalgic about watching the trains roll by, connecting our quiet little Country Corner to somewhere beyond the horizon.

There was something wonderfully nostalgic about watching the trains roll by

Back in the day, there was a small café next door to our Airbnb and although it is now closed, a group of locals still gathers there on Thursday and Saturday mornings. If we were around, we’d stop by and join the conversation over a cup of coffee. One of those visits led to an invitation to watch “roping”—the traditional practice of catching an animal with a lasso.

Historically, roping was a practical skill used by cowboys to manage cattle. While it’s still an important part of ranching today, roping has also become a competitive sport and recreational activity.

We spent two Wednesday evenings visiting with the adults while watching as the kids practiced their roping skills. There was a real sense of community, and we want to say a special Thank You to hosts Paul and Gloria for welcoming us into it.

The International Peace Garden, created in 1932 to promote friendship between Canada and the U.S., sits along the Manitoba–North Dakota border, about a 30-minute drive from Ninga. On September 11, the Garden hosted a 25th anniversary memorial service—and hundreds gathered to not only remember the 9/11 terrorist attacks but also affirm the close bonds between Canada and the United States.

It was deeply moving to be at this special place dedicated to peace and to share in the remembrance with neighbors from both sides of the border.

Overall, this trip was different for us. We spent less time searching for wildlife and more time exploring. We often simply drove around, looking for interesting places to photograph and figuring out when we might return for the best light.

We frequented our favorite restaurant, The Burning Bale, chatting with Chef Germain and the other customers about everything from his famous homemade hot sauces and seasonings to travel, the harvest, and whatever else happened to come up.

We went to the movies.

waiting for The Odyssey

Some days we did nothing more ambitious than take a long walk,

we loved saying hello to all the neighborhood horses

Or relax at home, enjoying the peace and quiet of Ninga.

relaxing at home

It was a slower pace than we were used to, and that was perhaps what made this stay so special. August quietly slipped into September, bringing cooler mornings and a hint of fall. Lush green fields faded into soft golds and browns, changing almost imperceptibly from one day to the next. The days grew shorter too, taking away some of our early morning light and those long, golden evenings.

Even the animals seemed to know the season was turning, trading their brown summer coats for winter white.

this jackrabbit’s summer brown coat was starting to show traces of winter white

Everywhere we looked, the landscape reminded us that nothing stays the same—and that there is beauty in slowing down and letting go.

sunrise at the beaver slough

And so, as the season turns, we’re saying goodbye to Ninga. From here the road takes us to Riding Mountain National Park, where we’ll spend a week before slowly making our way home. We’ll trade quiet country roads and open fields for forests, lakes, and whatever wildlife happens to cross our path. But there are still miles to go, and our journey isn’t over yet. So, check back soon for Two Months North of Ordinary, Part II.

Riding Mountain National Park, July 2024

You can view all of the photos from our six weeks in Ninga by clicking on the Flickr links below.

TG (including multi-image panoramas):

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arrow through the set or click on any image to open a new tab in Flickr

JET:

Ninga early morning
arrow through the set or click on any image to open a new tab in Flickr

Eat, Pray, Click: Chefchaouen, Maroc

Morocco, or Maroc as it is known in country, has been on my list of “must-see” destinations for decades. Its unique blend of stunning landscapes, rich culture, and delicious cuisine is a photographer’s dream. However, with so much to see, it wasn’t easy to decide where to go and for how long. JET and I have always been “thoroughly explore one area” type travelers, so after much research, I settled on Chefchaoen, famous for its incredible architecture and beauty.

I was particularly excited about capturing the iconic blue colors of the city against the backdrop of the Rif Mountains. We decided that this would be a solo trip, giving me ample time to take the landscape shots I hoped for. And so, in September 2025, I departed from Pensacola Airport for an 8-day visit to the Blue City of Chefchaouen.

on my way to Chefchaouen

“M” is for Muslim

The main religion in Morocco is Sunni Islam, which is also the state religion of the country. Officially, 99% of the population is Muslim, and virtually all of those are Sunni. 

The five daily calls to prayer, a fundamental practice in Islam, resonated throughout my visit to Chefchaouen. These calls, a constant in the city’s soundscape, served as a reminder of the profound role of faith in daily life. From the hijabs adorning women’s heads to the vibrant prayer rugs on display in the bustling markets, the influence of the Muslim faith was evident in the many photographs I captured. (click on photos to enlarge)

My visit to Chefchaouen also revealed the rich diversity of Islamic art. Islam prohibits figurative imagery in architecture, but that has not stifled creativity. Instead, it encouraged the development of other art forms such as mosaics and geometric patterns.

The city is a living testament to this artistic tradition; with so many examples, I spent most of my first full day wandering through the narrow streets and simply taking it all in. By the end of my visit, I was thrilled with what I had been able to capture but knew I had only scratched the surface.

I recorded the following call to prayer on my first night in the Blue City, and it became the soundtrack of my week.

Chefchaouen Call to Prayer

“A” is for Art

Ärt (noun) A diverse range of cultural activity centered around works utilizing creative or imaginative talents, which are expected to evoke a worthwhile experience, generally through an expression of emotional power, conceptual ideas, technical proficiency, or beauty. (Wikipedia)

Morocco in general, and Chefchaouen in particular, fit this definition perfectly and was the principal reason I chose this destination. I first saw photos of “The Blue City” some 20 years ago and had long ago added it to my bucket list of places to visit.

Chefchaouen “Bleuville”

The medina is a ubiquitous part of most Moroccan cities and refers to the old part of town, where markets, vendors, restaurants, and people all coexist in perfect, chaotic harmony.

coexisting in perfect, chaotic harmony

Chefchaouen’s medina is over 500 years old and was initially built as a fortress designed to protect against Portuguese invasions. Over time, it transformed into a vibrant hub influenced by Andalusian, Moorish, and Jewish cultures. The iconic blue, representing the sky and heaven, is believed to have been introduced by the Jewish community.

medina street

Art is visible everywhere in the medina:

Doors:

Windows:

Gates: (click on arrow to view photo set)

Sidewalks:

Steps: (click on arrow to view photo set)

Buildings: (click on photos to enlarge)

Murals: (click on arrow to view photo set)

Pavement: (click on arrow to view photo set)

Even in the wideness or narrowness of the streets and alleys:

An aerial view of the medina depicts a maze-like pattern that will test anyone’s sense of direction the first few times they visit. I happily found myself lost more than once!

Google maps screen shot of the medina

Lighting plays a pivotal role in shaping the appeal of Chefchaouen. Revisiting the same spot at different times of the day unveiled a new perspective each time, a testament to the city’s ever-changing beauty. (click on photos to enlarge)

The early hours just after sunrise gave a soft, dreamlike look to the city. It was mostly deserted, waiting for the town to come alive with shopkeepers, residents, and day trippers. The city’s blue color was dominant at this time of day.

plaza early morning

As the sun rose, the medina came alive with an explosion of colors as the shopkeepers displayed their wares and both locals and day trippers arrived. (click on arrow to view photo set)

After the sun set and evening fell, streetlamps created long shadows. The signature blue almost glowed in the night. People walking in the streets and squares seem to appear from the mist and then disappear just as quickly.

people seemed to appear and disappear quickly

Chefchaouen is situated in a valley within the Rif Mountain range. A short hike up above the city provided views that would make any landscape photographer or painter’s heart leap.

The time of day also factored into the mood of my images. Early mornings offered foggy, mystical views of the still-sleeping city. Midday sun highlighted the tableau of colors below. Sunset provided a serene blue hour color as the natural light faded and the city lights came on, one by one, revealing a nighttime jewel sparkling below. (click on arrow to view photo set)

As I walked through Chefchaouen and on the mountain trails above it, I was reminded of the privilege I had to experience this beautiful, living canvas. It’s a journey that I’ll cherish forever.

a journey I will cherish forever

“R” is for Riad

When I was researching my accommodation options in Chefchaouen, I was drawn to the unique charm of a riad. A riad, or traditional Moroccan home, is different from a typical hotel as it is built around an interior garden or courtyard.

typical Chefchaouen riad

In fact, the word “riad” stems from the Arabic word for “garden.” They are the most authentic options for travelers who want to experience the country’s culture and history and are usually located in the old medinas of most Moroccan cities.

Hôtel Dar Terrae interior

Originally, these homes were commissioned and inhabited by the affluent, often accommodating several generations of the same family. The Hôtel Dar Terrae was no exception, being home to a large extended family.

Hôtel Dar Terrae family

I was pleasantly surprised by the exceptional personal service I received: a staff member greeted me at the taxi drop-off outside the medina and carried my luggage uphill to the hotel and into my room, making me feel well cared for. (click on photos to enlarge)

To make the most of the limited space available in Morocco’s crowded medinas, riads are typically narrow and tall, with at least two stories overlooking the central courtyard. These stories have open balconies, allowing residents to enjoy the fresh air and sunlight streaming in from the open roof.

the open balcony outside my room

The rooms were small, lacking a lot of storage space, but my not-quite-queen bed was comfortable enough, and the shower had plenty of hot water. (click on arrow to view photo set)

While the open space did allow for a fair amount of ambient noise, the riad was a secure and convenient place to stay. More importantly, it offered great value for the money – approximately $30 per night, with breakfast included.

Hôtel Dar Terrae video tour during the morning call to prayer

The Adhan al-Fajr (dawn call to prayer):

Allahu akbar: (God is the greatest) Ashhadu anna la ilaha ill Allah: (I testify that there is no god but God) Ashhadu anna Muhammadan rasul Allah: (I testify that Muhammad is the Prophet of God) Hayya alas salah: (Come to prayer) Hayya alal falah: (Come to success) Assalatu khayrum minan naum: (Prayer is better than sleep) Allahu akbar: (God is the greatest) La ilaha illa Allah: (There is no god but God)

“O” is for Oranges

Morocco is one of the world’s leading producers of oranges, with 40% of the crop exported to the USA.  The region around Chefchaouen is renowned for its citrus production, as the warm climate and fertile soil make it an ideal location for cultivating high-quality fruits, such as oranges. They are hand-picked, so only the ripest and best are selected.

Considering Chefchaouen’s warm weather and steep hills, a glass of cool, fresh-squeezed OJ was just what I needed on a hot, sunny day.

There were plenty of stands scattered about the city where I could quench my thirst, offering up to 24 different combinations of fruits. I drank my share of plain OJ or mixed with pomegranate or mashed avocado. The latter turned my drink into a creamy, out-of-this-world milkshake concoction.  

Oranges play an essential role in expressing the unique charm of Chefchauoen – adding a splash of bright color against the blue background.

But oranges aren’t just for drinking.  Their cultivation is deeply embedded in the local fabric – enhancing traditional dishes or adding sweetness to desserts.

Walking around the city and its surrounding hillsides, I saw citrus trees nestled against ancient buildings and landmarks. This timeless blend of natural beauty and cultural heritage underscored the importance of citrus as both a culinary treasure and a symbol of Moroccan identity, leaving me inspired.

C” is for Cuisine

Think “Moroccan cooking” and you’re immediately transported to a world of exotic spices and distinct flavors.  With its long history of colonization, Morocco draws from a fusion of international cuisines, including Arab, French, Spanish, and Mediterranean. My meals in Chefchaouen were a feast for the senses, capturing the essence of Moroccan heritage with traditional dishes like tagine, couscous, and harira soup. And what better way to experience a culture than through its cooking?

Moroccan spices at the market

During my visit, I avoided the touristy spots near Plaza Uta El Hammam because they tend to be crowded, overpriced, and serve average food. I was, however, open to dining in busy local places, as long as the prices were reasonable, the food was excellent, and they were relatively free of the day trippers.

the busy Plaza Uta El Hammam

These restaurants stood out:

**Restaurant Jbaria** offered a fantastic tagine, along with complimentary appetizers, in a warm and inviting setting. Tagine is a traditional Moroccan dish that refers to both the dish itself and the clay pot in which it’s cooked. It combines vegetables, meat, or seafood along with spices, which are then slowly steamed together and served with either couscous or bread. (click on arrow to view photo set)

**Restaurant Baladi** provided a simple atmosphere with affordable prices, generous portions, and outstanding local cuisine. (click on photos to enlarge)

**Café Panorama Loubar**, located on a mountainside above Chefchaouen, served the best tagine I tried. It also featured stunning views (especially at sunset), friendly service from the owner, Abdul, and reasonable prices. However, meals were cooked to order so there was a bit of a wait. While waiting, I enjoyed excellent mint tea and delicious cookies. (click on arrow to view photo set)

There was a small café near Bab Souk, which opened at 7 AM—early for Morocco—offering good coffee, friendly service, and affordable, hearty breakfasts. (click on arrow to view photo set)

Chefchaouen is also home to numerous takeout spots, stands, and carts offering a diverse range of food and drinks at low, street-food prices. (click on photos to enlarge)

A special note about mint tea: it is intended to be savored, allowing time to enjoy the presentation along with the flavor, and is a perfect way to take a break when exploring Chefchaouen’s bustling streets.

the art of mint tea

After sampling traditional fare for several days, on my last night in Morocco I dined at a contemporary pizza parlor in Tangier. The vegetarian pizza was exceptionally well-prepared, featuring a delicate, flavorful crust topped with fresh vegetables and finished with basil leaves.

vegetarian pizza in Tangier

In conclusion, Chefchaouen cuisine isn’t just about flavor — it is rooted in centuries of tradition and hospitality where every dish tells a story. (click on arrow to view photo set)

Merci beaucoup. À bientôt … (Thank you and see you soon)

My eight days in Chefchaouen were a sensory delight: the sight of a friendly street cat striking a perfect pose in a metal heart, the feel of her soft fur as she wrapped around my ankles,

The aroma, sound, and flavor of a sizzling bowl of bissara soup,

Bissara soup (turn up the volume to hear it sizzle!)

And the silent echoes of the generations who had walked these same alleyways in the centuries before me.

Before I left, I shared with JET my hope of returning with a portfolio of about 200 excellent photos. In the end, I came home with almost that exact amount. But the personal connection I felt with Chefchaouen was so strong that I could have chosen any single theme and easily captured 200 images of cats or people, even door knockers! This visit left me longing for more, and I’m already planning my return trip.

door knocker

To view all of my photos from my Chefchaoen visit, hover on the image to arrow through the set or double-click to open a new tab in Flickr:

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