“♪♪ Well, I’m on my way / I don’t know where I’m goin’ / I’m on my way / I’m takin’ my time, but I don’t know where …♪♪” (Paul Simon)
Back In September 2022, we embarked on a 23,000-mile, 4-1/2-month road trip, which meant spending a lot of time in the car talking about life, the universe, and everything. Somewhere between New Mexico and Saskatchewan, we came to the decision that as soon as we got home, we would get the house ready to put on the market.
23,000 miles is a long time to be in the car together!
We arrived home in Okeechobee on January 25, 2023 and immediately set to work whipping the house and yard back into shape after five months of neglect.
we replaced the wooden walkways (destroyed by H. Ian) with stepping stones
We also squeezed in time for visits with friends.
fun weekend with Patty
my best birding buddies!
By mid-March, we were ready to list our house.
Listed For Sale with Two Ten Realty
Much to our surprise, it sold in 8 days to the fourth person to look at it.
a contract within 8 days
What?!? We were not at all ready to move that quickly!
Gulp! Just that quick!
We had identified a few potential areas to look but were nowhere near to finding, let alone purchasing, a new home!
we made multiple house-hunting trips to Northern Florida
With time running out, we rented a 15×10 locker in Okeechobee and moved all of our possessions into storage.
Lake & Trail Storage, Okeechobee
And, as soon as we were sure that our sale would go through, we rented an Airbnb near Pensacola for three months. It is a little further west than we want to be, but it is affordable, pet friendly, and within walking distance to the ocean.
our “home” for the next three months
With that peace of mind, we’ve focused on wrapping up our six years here in Okeechobee. Although we love our little house and being surrounded by nature, it is time to find our forever home.
packing up our life here in Okeechobee
♪♪ We’re on our way … not sure where we’re going … ♪♪ For the first time in our life we have the means – and the time – to take our time. We might end up traveling for a while before we settle down again and we’ve been kicking around a few different ideas about exactly where that might be. So, fasten your seatbelts and ride along with us once again. It is a little scary but also an exciting time to be on the road!
In 2022 we spent a month at the Sax-Zim Bog in Northern Minnesota. This 300+ sq mile area is home to a wide variety of winter birds and animals including great gray owls. We were incredibly fortunate with our sightings that month with 25 great grays, 8 barred owls, 4 snowy owls, one northern hawk owl, 8 bald eagles, two pine martens, multiple porcupines, a bobcat, a red fox, and many of the regular winter birds.
pine marten (February 2022)
We knew we could never top our 2022 trip and debated whether to include a stop on our way home this year. But since we were practically driving right by, we booked a week at an Airbnb in Hibbing. Kalen’s place was perfect: roomy and comfortable with everything we needed, plus conveniently located to both downtown Hibbing and the Sax-Zim Bog.
According to everyone we spoke to, great gray owl sightings were down this year. The resident owls were all seasoned hunters, snow totals less than half of what they should be in January, and temperatures warmer than normal.
much less snow and warmer temps than normal for January
This combination allowed the owls to catch their voles at the night, with no need to hunt alongside the road in the daytime. Owls were seen sporadically pre-dawn or at dusk, in extremely low light conditions. Of course, I was optimistic that we would see at least one before our week was over.
cars waiting for a GGO along Hwy 7 at sunset
On our first day, we did see a northern hawk owl, so far away it was only an owl-shaped outline even with my fully zoomed Nikon P900. Some people had blazed a trail through the snow to get closer and in doing so flushed her even further from view.
nothing more than an owl-shaped outline!
As fortunate as we were in 2022, we kept coming up owl-less on this visit. Not to be discouraged, we focused on some of the smaller bird species that had eluded us last year or that we wanted to improve upon.
snow buntings
There was a lovely flock of snow buntings at the gravel pits on Admiral Road and we caught them one morning in the bright sunshine.
snow buntings
TG was able to capture some beautiful images of a boreal chickadee at the Arkola Road feeders – another species that eluded him last year.
boreal chickadee
He also managed to catch a Canada Jay stretching a glob of peanut butter like saltwater taffy.
Canada jay with peanut butter!
I was able to spy both male and female evening grosbeaks together at the feeders on Admiral Road.
male and female evening grosbeaks
That was three new bird species for TG and two for me: not bad for a week with “not much happening!”
freight train on Hwy 7
It snowed all day on Monday, January 16, and we woke up to six inches of new snow on Tuesday morning. We followed the snowplows through the bog,
following behind a snowplow
And accidentally flushed a barred owl in the pre-dawn light.
barred owl in flight
The fresh snow seemed to have picked up sightings and we caught several of the winter birds at the feeders around the Bog:
Black-capped chickadees,
black-capped chickadee
Evening and pine grosbeaks,
female pine grosbeak & male evening grosbeak
Multiple species of woodpeckers,
hairy woodpecker
And much to our delight the return of the northern hawk owl!
northern hawk owl
After spending some time with the hawk owl, we decided to head home but first detoured past the spot where we saw the barred owl earlier that morning. Imagine our surprise when she returned while we were chatting with two other men who happened to stop by at that same time.
barred owl
It was just the four of us, and she stayed long enough for us to snap a few photos before once again disappearing into the woods.
she patiently sat while we snapped a few pics and then disappeared into the woods
We decided to leave Hibbing a day early to shave a few hours off our drive on Friday. Wednesday the 18th was our last full day in the Bog. We were headed towards the Admiral Road snow buntings when something big caught our eye: no sooner had we grabbed our cameras when she nose-dived into the snow and disappeared. It was a great gray owl. No photos but a thrill nonetheless!
With that encouraging spy we agreed that, if we could get packed and ready, we would make one last run out to the Bog early Thursday morning. We left the house at 7 am, feeling drawn towards Overton Road where GGOs had recently been spotted. Overton Road is in the western section of the Bog, not heavily trafficked, and a long drive from most of the areas we had frequented over the week.
white-tailed deer on Overton Road
No sooner had we turned down the road when we got a message: “GGO on Overton. Look for the blue SUV.” We were at the spot within ten minutes, the first car behind the ladies who had spied her.
great gray owl on Overton Road, January 19, 2023
We spent almost an hour with this magnificent creature, and I left crying tears of joy. A huge, heartfelt Thank You to Beth and Debbie who so kindly shared this sighting with us and the handful of folks who happened to be out that early — and close by!
January 19, 2023
Great grays, also called Phantoms of the North, are the largest owls in the US, and one of the most elusive. They tend to avoid areas with people and even in places like the Sax-Zim Bog it is a treat to see one. We feel fortunate that on this short trip we were able to spy two.
January 19, 2023
Final tally for the week: two sightings of a barred owl, two sightings of the northern hawk owl, a quick look at a great gray on Admiral Road, an hour-long visit with a great gray on Overton, and multiple winter birds around the Bog.
pine grosbeaks (male & female)
“There are few guarantees in the world of birds, but if you keep an open mind and an open heart, a winter day in the Sax-Zim Bog may be frozen, but like ice cream, it’s guaranteed to be sweet.” (Laura Erickson)
January 19, 2023
You can view all of our photos from this visit at our Flickr links below:
TG:
hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any to open a new tab in Flickr
JET:
hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any to open a new tab in Flickr
On September 18, 2022, we left Florida for a 5 1/2 -month road trip, visiting Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks, New Mexico, Saskatchewan, North Dakota, and Minnesota. It was an ambitious itinerary and we were excited about checking many “must-sees” off our bucket list.
And … we’re off! (September 18, 2022)
Sometime in December, we decided that spending two more months in the cold, northern winter would be too much. So, we cut our month in the Sax-Zim Bog down to just a week and pointed ourselves towards home at the end of January.
by mid-December we were done with the cold and snow!
By the time we pulled into our driveway in Okeechobee, we had traveled 22,614.6 miles for 130 days, visited 19 states and two Canadian provinces.
22,614.6 miles later we were back home (trip odometer rolled over three times) January 25, 2023
In all those miles, we sat in traffic due to an accident just once: ironically, it was outside of Orlando on our way home, less than 100 miles from Okeechobee.
Oscar and Maddie were amazingly good road trip pups!
We stayed at seven different Airbnbs and spent 15 nights in hotels while moving from one place to the next. TG fully packed and unpacked the car sixteen times, and partially unpacked/repacked it 30 times.
TG had the packing & unpacking puzzle down to a science!
After we returned home, someone asked, “what was your favorite sighting?” In 4 1/2 months of favorites, that’s an impossible question.
Instead, we’ve compiled a list of the “Best/Worst” along with a few photos. We’ve also put together a highlights video you will find at the end of this blog.
Best Drive: The roads from Canora, Saskatchewan to Fargo, North Dakota for the beautiful landscapes and all the wildlife we saw along the way.
What is left of Arena, ND, a ghost town between Minot and Fargo, January 6, 2023
Worst Drive: Teton Pass had TG white-knuckling it while I breathed into a paper bag. (Seriously!)
Teton Pass
Best AirBnB: Our cozy home in Canora, Saskatchewan. It had everything we needed and was laid out perfectly, with a fenced-in yard for Oscar and Maddie.
our cozy home in Canora, Saskatchewan
Worst AirBnB: None! They were all great!
Best Hotel: Hyatt House, Minot, North Dakota. Full size kitchens and complimentary washers & dryers!
Worst Hotel: Days Inn, Topeka, KS. Don’t even ask.
Best Meal: Huevos rancheros at the El Corral Café in Corona, New Mexico
Huevos Rancheros at the El Corral Cafe in Corona, New Mexico
Worst Meal: Thanksgiving, 2022. We wanted fancy cheeses but all we could find in Socorro were Kaukauna cheese balls.
Thanksgiving dinner, 2022
Funniest Moment: See Worst Meal. I asked the salesperson if they had any brie and she replied, “is that a type of alcohol?”
Scariest Moment: Driving the Norris-Canyon Road in Yellowstone National Park on a sheet of solid ice.
the icy, snowy roads through Yellowstone National Park
Favorite Sighting: Huck, the huge grizzly bear we spotted crossing the Snake River while driving the Rockefeller Parkway between Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Park. “It’s a bear!!!! In the water!!!”
Huck, named by the locals for the nearby Huckleberry Mountain
Favorite Landscape: Mormon Row, Grand Teton National Park
Mormon Row, Grand Teton National Park
Favorite Night Sky: The Northern Lights in the wee hours of January 4, 2023
Around 2:00 am, January 4, 2023
Most Memorable: Our week at the McReynolds Blacktail Cabins in Grand Teton
a view of the Grand Tetons from our shower!
Our Bucket List:
Grizzly and black bears √
black bear, Grand Teton National Park
Moose √
moose bull and cow, Yellowstone National Park
Yellowstone’s hydrothermal features √
Old Faithful timelapse, Yellowstone National Park
Bear and bison jams in Yellowstone √
bison jam, Yellowstone National Park
You can read all about our visit to Yellowstone in Episode 1: Walk on the Wild Side
We also had some delightfully unexpected surprises. The first was when I had taken a turn driving and said, “I’ll just go to the next rest area.” Little did we know that rest area was home to the beautiful sculpture, “Dignity.”
the 50ft high Dignity (a.k.a. Dignity of Earth & Sky) sculptureon a bluff overlooking the Missouri River near Chamberlain, South Dakota
Both TG and I had the opportunity to meet up with several schoolmates along the way.
Welcome sign for TG at his grade school friend’s pub in Lawrence, KA
And many surprises in New Mexico where we spent a lot of time driving around the state during our month-long stay:
Gallup and the El Rancho Hotel
El Rancho Hotel, Gallup, New Mexico
Valley of Fires
Valley of Fires, Carrizozo, New Mexico
Gila National Forest
Gila National Forest, New Mexico
Rio Grande Gorge
Rio Grande Gorge, Taos, New Mexico
The Rattlesnake Museum in Albuquerque
Rattlesnake Museum, Albuquerque, New Mexico
You can read all about our trip to New Mexico in Episode 3: Back to the Bosque
We were also smitten with the rolling hills in both South and North Dakota and the beauty of Saskatchewan including the hoarfrost, all of the wildlife we saw while driving around, the “prairie sentinels” that dot the landscape, and the delicious Ukrainian food!
Ukrainian skuffles (a type of tiny cinnamon roll) O.M.G.
And a few final stats:
Windshields replaced: 1
nice chip in the windshield driving through Albuquerque, New Mexico
Times stuck in snow: 0
waiting for the roads to open after someone else went off the road, Yellowstone National Park
When we left Okeechobee back in September, we said to each other “at the end of thistrip, we’re either going to arrive back home saying NEVER again or let’s GO again!”
Stayed tuned … we’re already planning our next trip!
22,000-mile punchiness: “Take a little trip, take a little trip with me-ee”
If you know me, you know I am a bit owl crazy. I never get tired of seeing them, whether it is a tiny screech owl in our backyard, a barn owl in flight over the cane fields south of Lake Okeechobee, or a barred owl hooting above my tent while camping.
Whoo’s ready for a nap? blanket I made using my owl photos
We have traveled to Michigan in the middle of January to photograph snowy owls and spent a month at the Sax-Zim Bog one February to see the great grays. So, it should come as no surprise that we included a stop on our 5 1/2-month road trip in hopes of spying a northern saw-whet owl, Aegolius acadicus.
northern saw-whet owl, January 2023
These pint-sized little owls are found from Alaska and Canada into the north and western US. They can be spied further south on occasion, but the odds of seeing one in South Florida are zero.
Northern saw-whet owl range map — zero chance of seeing one in Okeechobee! (All About Birds.org)
With adorable, catlike faces and large, expressive eyes they captured my heart and I longed to see one for myself.
northern saw-whet owl, January 2023
We scouted the listings on e-bird and determined that the area around Fargo, North Dakota was a “hotspot” with multiple sightings over the years. We booked a week at an Airbnb in Dilworth, a short 20-minute drive from several of the most popular locations.
the blue pins are multiple sightings around Fargo every January (ebird.org)
In the happiest of coincidences, we were able to connect with Fargo’s northern saw-whet owl whisperer, Dan Mason.
Dan and me
Before we arrived, Dan did his best to set my expectations: “Be aware they seem to be getting harder to find than usual, possibly due to the heavier-than-normal snow pushing them to new hunting areas, and severely sagging their favorite roost trees/bushes.”
He also sent me a link to his photo set along with this caveat: “While many of these are the standard, out-in-the-open “glamour shots” others are more realistic in showing how well these birds can be mostly hidden or only partially visible when on the roost. Seeing these is helpful in training your mind’s eye in what to look for when you are out in the field.”
hiding in plain sight, January 2023
He even offered to scout various locations before our arrival and seemed genuinely excited about helping me find one. On Jan 1, 2023, I received another email with an attached photo: “Found my first Saw-whet of the new year today in Fargo’s Orchard Glen Park, so there is at least one of the birds still hanging around, waiting for you!”
January 1, 2023 northern saw-whet owl (photo courtesy of Dan Mason)
Dan and I agreed to meet on the morning of January 7. But first, TG and I went to breakfast at the Fryn’ Pan Family Restaurant. They were so impressed with the fact that we were on a 24,000-mile road trip that they comped our meal! “We want to make your visit to Fargo just a little bit more special,” our server said. Thank you, Bailey and the Fryn’ Pan!
me, Bailey, and TG at the Fryn’ Pan Family Restaurant
With that auspicious start, we met Dan at our rendezvous spot. We scouted five different areas …
Orchard Glen Nature Park – one of five places we scouted
… With nothing but a beautiful merlin to show for it.
merlin
Recent snowfall had the tree branches weighed down. That, combined with the morning fog, made it difficult to spot much of anything.
too much snow weighing down the trees
But I learned so much from Dan about where and how to look. I left him feeling confident that at some point during the coming week, our quest would be successful!
Dan and me at Orchard Glen Nature Park
The next day we stopped by the Fargo-Moorhead Visitor’s Center, built in the now-familiar style of an old grain elevator.
Fargo-Moorhead Visitor’s Center with woodchipper
the actual woodchipper prop from the movie “Fargo”
We were chatting with the nice young ladies when my phone chimed. A text from Dan with some exciting news: he had found a saw-whet owl at one of the parks we visited yesterday and was waiting for us there. “On our way!” I texted back.
“On our way!!!!”
Dan was in the parking lot when we arrived, and together we hurried to the spot. She was still there, a little ball of puff about three-quarters of the way up an evergreen tree.
a little ball of puff but a saw-whet owl nonetheless! (January 8, 2023)
Our first-ever northern saw-whet owl and TG and I got to share this wonderful moment!
TG and I sharing the moment (photo by Dan Mason)
Although she never lifted her head, she was still a thrill to see.
the top of her head is just peeking over her tail feathers (January 8, 2023)
The next day Dan texted again. He had found another owl: “glamour shot possibility, unobstructed, and only 8 feet off the ground.” Twenty minutes later we were at the spot, and it was everything I dreamed of.
everything I could have hoped for! (January 9, 2023)
She was roosting quietly on a branch, not at all perturbed by us or our clicking cameras.
roosting quietly on a branch (January 9, 2023)
She even lifted a foot and did a little face scratch.
lifting her foot (January 9, 2023)
The next day we found her again – in an even better spot than the day before!
an even better spot! (January 10, 2023)
TG said, “ if yesterday we got Monopoly money shots, today we got US Benjamins.”
be still my beating heart! (January 10, 2023)
This time it was me textingDan and he responded, “be sure toget some video!”
saaw-weet little saw-whet owl!
I had just finished shooting a little clip when she puffed up and turned her back to us. We took that as a clear sign she was done, and quickly left the area. We were the only ones in the park and were certain that once we left, she would settle back into her nap.
she puffed up and turned her back to us (January 10, 2023)
We left the park and headed into Fargo to capture a bit of the downtown.
downtown Fargo
TG doing his magic
Dominating downtown’s Broadway Street is the art deco Fargo Theatre. Built in 1926 as a cinema and vaudeville theatre, the beautifully restored Fargo Theatre now serves as an art house featuring independent and foreign films. It is also a venue for concerts and other live events.
the historic Fargo Theatre
That evening we returned for dinner and to take photos of the marquee at night.
Fargo Theatre at night
Later that night I received another email from Dan: “I went back out this afternoon and Lady Saw-whet was still in the same spot, snoozing.”
Dan added that as he was leaving, he met a photographer who driven all the way to Fargo specifically to find a saw-whet owl. “Another kindly soul whose eyes and smile lit up at the sight of the bird … And the wheel keeps on turning.”
Dan Mason and me (January 8, 2023)
We are grateful for Dan’s time, expertise, and generosity. We could not have accomplished this goal without him and cannot thank him enough! Also, it was nice meeting and spending time with another owl-lover. Hopefully, he didn’t think I was *too* crazy for singing songs and talking to the owls. 🦉
You can view all of our saw-whet owl photos here:
hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr
After a successful detour to South Dakota’s Badlands for bighorn sheep, we continued with our original itinerary north to Canora, Saskatchewan in search of the Aurora Borealis.
Saskatchewan: Land of Living Skies
The drive through the Dakotas is beautiful – reminiscent of the Palouse Region in the Pacific Northwest with miles of gentle, rolling hills.
South Dakota
North Dakota
And – an abundance of wildlife! On our drives both north and back south, we spied multiple deer, including a large buck that crossed the road directly in front of our car, an elk, a bighorn ram, two foxes, a herd of pronghorns, bald eagles, a golden eagle in aerial combat with a peregrine falcon, and dozens of ruffed grouse and pheasants running alongside the road.
white-tailed deer (buck)
The further north we drove, the more wintery it became but the roads were clear with no traffic.
Heart Butte Dam at Lake Tschida, North Dakota
We crossed the border at Northgate,
the US-Canadian border at Northgate
Entered Canada with no delay and were comfortably settled into our cozy Airbnb in Canora by late afternoon.
We took our time getting to know the charming little town. We went to the Ukrainian Catholic Church’s bake sale for cabbage rolls and to chat with the local ladies – who were amazed that we had driven all the way from Florida with our two pups!
Welcome to Canora sign, church bake sale, Ukrainian Catholic Church
We scouted out various dark sky locations for Northern Lights — should Lady Aurora decide to dance,
the perfect place to catch Lady Aurora dancing and a cool old truck to mark the spot!
And photographed the beautiful Christmas lights on Main Street.
downtown Main Street
King George Park
One morning we drove to the Whistle Stop, a small diner in Norquay. Over breakfast, we struck up a conversation with a local couple, Livia and Rick.
the Whistle Stop in Norquay and egg & cheese breakfast skillet
Livia insisted on hurrying home for some of her freshly baked skuffles – a type of Ukrainian cinnamon roll. “I’ll be right back,” she promised.
Livia with her home-made skuffles, Rick, & TG
Sure enough, ten minutes later she was back with a package of tiny, cinnamon-sugar deliciousness. OMG!
Livia’s skuffles
Another evening we enjoyed the annual Christmas Lights Festival in Sturgis, a small town to the north. Horse-drawn carriage rides …
carriage rides through the snow and twinkling lights
Hot cocoa …
free hot cocoa
A warm fire …
bonfire
And beautiful lights …
twinkling lights
It was ♪♪ beginning to look a lot like Christmas! ♪♪
selfie at the Sturgis Christmas Lights Festival
Clouds continued to blanket all of Canada, and thus far our Northern Lights quest was unsuccessful. Who could have predicted so many nights of overcast skies?!?
100% overcast every night
But we are not ones to sit around and mope. We quickly shifted gears and focused our attention on the 90ft grain elevators that stand guard over every town.
Invermay
Historically, Saskatchewan’s economy was based on agriculture, producing a significant percentage of Canada’s wheat and other grains. Grain elevators were iconic symbols of Saskatchewan and synonymous with the province’s agricultural roots. By 1960, the number of these “prairie sentinels” had peaked at close to 3000.
Kelvington
But as farmers moved to steel silos, the wooden elevators became obsolete and expensive to maintain. They are now a dying breed; it is estimated that 10-20 are lost every year to demolition, fires, or natural disasters, and only about 300 remain standing.
Gorlitz
We wanted to capture a little of this history before it is gone forever. TG plotted multiple routes and we spent days driving from town to town, photographing the vintage towers,
TG at Pelly
Along with cool old barns, beautiful churches,
St Peter & Paul Catholic Church, Kuroki
And interesting buildings.
“Welcome to the …” (Springside)
One day we drove east into Manitoba to photograph the Inglis National Historic Site, the last complete row of vintage grain elevators in Canada, and a rare survivor of the long rows that once dominated the prairie towns.
the Inglis row
The Inglis row was built between 1922 and 1941, Manitoba’s golden age of elevators. The buildings have been preserved in their original positions and restored to original condition.
Inglis
On another snowy day, TG plotted a route that ended up with too many roads that had not been plowed. I had more luck shooting wildlife photos than he did with the grain elevators!
red fox dashing through the snow
After back-tracking twice we finally arrived at the grain elevator in Waldron.
Waldron
As we snapped away a man asked what we were doing and then invited us into his home for a cup of coffee. Our hearts — and our toes — were warmed by an hour of delightful conversation in Don and Virginia’s kitchen!
TG, Virginia, and Don
You can view all of our “prairie sentinel” photos here:
hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr
While we waited for conditions to improve, we found other interesting things to photograph. Light pillars happen on cold winter nights when there are ice crystals in the air. Lights that point straight down reflect off the snow on the ground, and the reflected light lights up the crystals.
Light pillars from the corner of Charter and George Street, Canora
Sun dogs, or parhelions, are formed by ice crystals suspended in clouds that drift in the air at lower levels. These ice crystals act as a prism, bending the light rays that pass through them.
a sun dog in Nut Mountain (around 9:30am)
And we were pleasantly surprised by all the wildlife we saw while out and about!
coyote in a field
Although I would not recommend traveling to Canada in the dead of winter just for the wildlife, we regularly spied moose, foxes, coyote, deer, and many species of birds while out on our photo safaris.
You can view all of our wildlife photos here:
hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr
And we celebrated Christmas dinner at Lynn’s, a little Chinese restaurant in Sturgis … because nothing says “Christmas” like veggie chow mein! We actually made Lynn’s a regular stop for reasonable and good food!
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
But this trip was all about capturing the Northern Lights. Our friend Janet lived in Alaska for 28 years and she had warned us that there were many winters when they never saw any lights. So, we came to Canora with high – but realistic – hopes and agreed that even onegood night would make the drive worth it. The night of Dec 22 looked promising. The skies were finally clear, the solar wind speeds had picked up, and the BZ numbers were dropping – all indications of increased aurora activity.
the night of Dec 22 was looking good!
Sure enough, our “Aurora Alert” app chimed around midnight. We bundled up and headed out to our dark-sky spot. We could see the shimmering lights before we even got out of the car, and they grew more brilliant as we watched.
Dec 22, 2022
Despite the -15° temps and 20mph wind, it was everything we could have hoped for. We both stood in awe, hearts caught in our throats as we watched Lady Aurora’s beautiful dance for the first time.
Dec 22, 2022
The next night she danced again, and we were there to capture her.
Dec 23, 2022
Dec 23, 2022
She appeared for a third night on Christmas Eve. The Christmas Lights (northern style) we had hoped to see!
December 24, 2022 (20-image pano)
“Stars don’t beg the world for attention: their beauty forces us to look up.” (Matshona Dhliwayo)
December 29 gave us a relatively weak night, but if it had been our only sighting, we would have been thrilled.
December 29, 2022
The Space Weather Prediction Center issued a G1 geomagnetic storm watch for the night of January 3, 2023. Without getting too technical this meant that, if the skies were clear, we were sure to see a show. Although we were heading back to North Dakota the following morning, we drove out to our dark sky spot at midnight.
January 4, 2023 (1:30am)
Lady Aurora’s dance was the best thus far, and two hours in the cold passed quickly.
30-second timelapse of 199 images shot over approximately one hour
She was still dancing when we returned home, and we captured a few more images above the house.
Aurora over Faustino’s Airbnb
33-image pano looking north from the corner of Charter and George Street
Capturing the Aurora is not easy. It is a ballet between the cold, the clouds, and the light. But nothing in the sky can compare to the beauty of what we saw on those five magical nights in Canora. As we watched the Lady dance, it felt at times like my very soul was being drawn out of my chest and into the stars.
“It is a ballet between the cold, the clouds, and the light” … And your camera settings!
You can view all of our “CanorAurora” photos here:
hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr
We traveled to Canada for the “Christmas Lights, Northern Style” but experienced so much more: historical grain elevators, wonderful wildlife, and beautiful, pristine landscapes. As we say au revoir, we cannot help but be enchanted by this Land of Living Skies.
Not every paradise is tropical
Coming soon: Westward Ho(ly Cow)! Episode 5: “Saw-Whet, Say What?!?”
For anyone following along on our epic 5 1/2-month road trip, you know I’ve been chasing a dream photo of a bighorn ram … a male with a magnificent head of “curls.”
bighorn ram with “curls”
We saw ewes on our first drive through the Badlands back in September. And a juvenile ran across the road in front of us in Big Sky. But even with a trip up to the Rio Grande Gorge, all we managed to spy were some fresh tracks in the mud.
bighorn sheep tracks at the Rio Grande Gorge
So, we decided to cut short our time in New Mexico and spend three nights in Rapid City, S.D. on our way to Canada. A ranger at the El Morro Visitor’s Center had assured us that bighorn sheep sightings were almost guaranteed in the Badlands.
a ranger at El Morro assured us we would see bighorns in the Badlands
We’ve gotten into the habit of shorter drive days to build in time for sightseeing or weather delays.
Oscar and Maddie safely secured in the back seat
The wind gusts through northern New Mexico were 65+ mph, and we took our time carefully driving past blown-over semis.
we saw lots of blown-over semis in the 65+ mph winds!
Checking the map, we realized that a slight detour would take us directly through the Black Hills National Forest,
the Black Hills National Forest
And past the Crazy Horse monument. The on-going work is 100% privately funded and the expected completion date is 2050.
the Crazy Horse monument
The road heading into Rapid City is lined with attractions – most of them cheesy tourist traps.
tourist traps line the road into Rapid City
And I had forgotten that fossils were such a big thing in this area. The famous T-Rex “Sue” at the Field Museum in our hometown of Chicago was discovered right here in the Black Hills of South Dakota!
T-Rex “Sue” at the Field Museum in Chicago (photo courtesy of Chicago friend Mimi DeCastro)
Sunday morning was clear with a bright blue sky and brilliant sunshine. We arrived at the Badlands’ west entrance at 8:45 and headed straight to Roberts Prairie Dog Town. On our way, we passed several bison standing close to the road.
bison close to the road
Just as we reached them, the prairie dogs were waking up and we got some fun shots as they popped out of their burrows into the early morning sun.
Good morning!
As we turned back onto the main park road, I spied something up ahead and quickly grabbed my binocs: two bighorn sheep!
two bighorn sheep!
While we were photographing them, a third ram came over the hill. Three bighorn sheep, complete with curls! And off in the distance, I spotted another pair – a ram and a ewe. Make that five bighorn sheep within the first hour of our visit!
a ram came over the hill!
I could not have been more thrilled as we continued our drive. We stopped to photograph more of the prairie dogs that dot this section of the park.
prairie dog burrows dot this section of the park
On the other side of the road, across a deep ravine, were three more rams. Eight bighorn sheep!
three rams were on this ridge!
As you drive east, the landscape changes from open prairie to iconic Badlands: high pinnacles and buttes, otherworldly rock formations with beautifully colored sediment layers.
high pinnacles with beautifully colored sediment layers
We spied several groups of mule deer as we drove along.
mule deer
We stopped at the Ben Reifel Visitors Center to chat with the rangers. They told us that a year ago the park’s bighorn population had been decimated by pneumonia. They lost 86% of their herd, which currently numbers around 50. 50?!?
approximately 50 bighorn sheep are currently in the Badlands
I was grateful we learned this after we had spied our eight. If I had known beforehand how truly rare they have become, I fear I would have given up before we even started.
We drove to the east entrance and then turned around to retrace our drive back west. It was a beautiful day, and the park was almost empty.
we turned around and retraced our drive back to the west entrance
We stopped along the way to capture a little of the Badlands’ magic.
the park was almost empty, and we stopped to capture some of its magic
Just as we reached the Pinnacles Overlook, we spied our three big rams again – this time close to the road. They were making their way across a ravine to the ridge on the other side.
crossing a ravine
They seemed to be enjoying themselves, head-butting a little before standing side-by-side.
they seemed to be enjoying themselves
I turned around to see a group of six females and one male coming down the hill behind us!
six ewes!
What?!? Without double counting the eight we had spied earlier that was five new females! Thirteen total including six ewes and seven rams with full heads of curls. What a BIG surprise!
As we watched, there appeared to be some drama between the two groups. The rams across the ridge were on high alert, eyeing the female group.
the rams were on high alert
A ewe left her group, crossed the road, and stood watching the three bachelors.
she crossed the road and stood eyeing the three bachelors
Her mate followed after her and gradually persuaded her to join the rest of his herd.
her mate gradually persuaded her to join the rest of his herd
The three bachelors made their move, crossing the road and approaching the herd from different angles.
the bachelors made their move, approaching the herd from different angles
The valley reverberated with the sound of their magnificent horns clashing as they competed against each other.
head butting
We shared this special sighting with two women who were hoping for this type of action.
we shared this special sighting with only two other women
Passing cars occasionally stopped to capture a quick photo but only the four of us were privileged to watch the whole story.
passing cars stopped to snap a photo or two and were on their way
Then, as quickly as the drama started, it ended.
the drama was over as quickly as it began
Monday morning we awoke to snow, so we decided to leave any exploring for the afternoon when the forecast called for clearing skies.
view from our hotel room on Monday morning
Rapid City’s most well-known attraction is Mount Rushmore. Here’s what TG had to say about our visit:
“I find it ironic that when we visited The Badlands and all its natural magnificence, we were blessed with a stellar day of clear and sunny weather, especially for December. The next day, when we planned to visit the man made “wonder” that is Mount Rushmore, we get gloomy, overcast skies and snow, with fog surrounding the sculpture…”
Mount Rushmore on a foggy day
But Mount Rushmore isn’t the only place to see presidents in Rapid City. Life-size bronze statues of every past American president stand along the downtown streets and sidewalks, and we stopped to photograph my hero, Teddy Roosevelt. We found him wearing a knit cap and looking for all the world like Robin Williams in “Night at the Museum.”
Teddy Roosevelt with knit cap
I wanted a bighorn ram with full head of curls but never in my wildest dreams did I expect to see thirteen so close and with so much drama! Our three nights in Rapid City exceeded all expectations and were indeed a BIG(horn) surprise!
so many curls and so much drama!
You can view all of the photos from our unforgettable day in the Badlands here:
hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr
In November of 2021, we spent a wonderful month at a little Airbnb in Lemitar, New Mexico.
Casita del Cranes, Lemitar, NM (2021)
It was located about 30 minutes from the Bosque del Apache Wildlife Refuge, where over 100,000 sandhill cranes, snow geese, and other migrating birds winter each year. So, when we returned to Casita del Cranes this year it was like coming home. We arrived late afternoon on Wednesday, November 2, and were settled in long before bedtime.
back to Casita del Cranes and the Bosque del Apache!
When we left Grand Teton, winter was right around the corner. A week later they had a foot of snow and temperatures had dropped to below zero. It was nice to return to autumn in New Mexico where the aspens and cottonwoods had just started to peak,
November 4, 2022
And we tracked the color changes over our month’s stay.
by the end of November, the leaves were nearly gone, and ice formed on the wetlands in the early morning
On this visit, we spent a lot of time just relaxing at Casita del Cranes.
such a relaxing place!
It is the last house on a quiet road and the only sounds are the birds
lots of kestrels on the power lines around Casita
And occasional freight trains that rumble by day and night – something we found charming.
picturesque freight trains rumble by day and night
Oscar and Maddie loved going for sunset walks along the ditch road,
sunset on the ditch road in front of Casita del Cranes
And checking on Pam’s chickens!
Oscar checking on Pam’s chickens
And we loved all the photo ops right outside our door.
a few of the animals around Casita (clockwise from lower left): Say’s phoebe, yellow warbler, roadrunner, Mexican ground squirrel, mourning dove
We heard the calls of the sandhill cranes every time we stepped outside.
sandhill cranes in the field next to Casita
And often found them in the nearby fields or flying overhead.
sandhill cranes at sunset
The Bosque del Apache is a combination of wetlands and agricultural fields, and the planted/flooded areas are rotated each year. Last year the birds were close to the roads and easy to photograph from the various observation decks.
sandhill cranes at the Flight Deck, November 2021
This year the Wetland Roost, an area alongside the road heading towards the main entrance, was flooded and we got some wonderfully close shots of the snow geese
snow geese flying out at sunrise
And sandhill cranes,
sandhill cranes at sunrise
Along with the coyotes that regularly scouted the shoreline in the early mornings.
coyotes on the shoreline in the early morning
We also managed to capture several of the Bosque regulars: an adorable least bittern doing her best to shoo away an American coot,
least bittern and American coot
the many duck species,
Northern pintail
White pelicans,
white pelicans
Northern harriers,
female northern harrier
Roadrunners,
roadrunner
And dozens of TTB’s (tiny twitchy birds).
dark-eyed junco
In addition to a 14-mile scenic driving loop, the Bosque maintains twelve hiking trails of various lengths and difficulty. Instead of spending all of our time looking for birds, we hiked several trails.
Some, like the Desert Arboretum, are short and easy.
Gambel’s quail (male) on the Desert Arboretum trail
It shares a parking lot with the Visitor’s Center and Gift Shop, making for a convenient stop on your way to or from the Bosque.
Others, like the Canyon National Recreational Trail, require a bit more planning.
the Canyon National Recreational Trail
It is a 2.5-mile trail through a canyon where we found animal tracks in the sand
snake, bobcat, and mice tracks in the soft sand along the trail
And nests tucked into crevices high up on the cliffs,
peregrine falcon nest high up on the cliff
While winding our way up to the top of a ridge with a glorious bird’s-eye view of the refuge.
couple’s selfie from the top of the ridge
The Bosque is not just about birds. Many other animals call this area home including javelinas,
javelina
Mule deer,
mule deer
Ground squirrels,
ground squirrel
And multiple species of reptiles.
Eastern side-blotched lizard
You can view all of our bird and wildlife photos here:
hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr
We had such an incredible time in 2021 that we did not feel under any pressure to get “the shot” on this trip. We visited other wildlife refuges and explored the beautiful state of New Mexico.
Bernardo Waterfowl Area snow geese at sunset
One day we drove east to Tularosa and on our way, happened upon the Valley of Fires.
Valley of Fires campground pano
According to the BLM website, 5,000 years ago Little Black Peak erupted and flowed 44 miles into the Tularosa Basin, filling the basin with molten rock.
from a distance the lava looks black and dead
The resulting lava flow is four to six miles wide, 160 feet thick, and covers 125 square miles.
the lava is 160 feet thick! (vertical pano)
The lava appears black and dead but take a closer look and it is full of life
white-crowned sparrow (juvi)
And color!
the Valley of Fires is full color!
On another day we drove south and west to Silver City, stopping at the VLA.
the VLA
The VLA (Very Large Array) is comprised of twenty-eight enormous radio telescopes and is part of the National Radio Astronomy Observatory.
28 enormous radio telescopes
It also makes for some excellent photo ops!
taking photos at the VLA!
Catron County in western New Mexico has a population of over 12,000 elk. We did not see any elk on our drive, but we did see mule deer, a roadrunner running across the road (where else?), a coyote, and a beautiful golden eagle.
golden eagle in flight
We passed the Chino (aka Santa Rita) Open-Pit Copper Mine, the third largest in the world
the Chino Copper Mine
And something you must see to believe!
something you must see to believe!
We drove through the Gila National Forest with its astounding beauty
the road through the Gila National Forest
And exhilarating hairpin curves,
the road!
Stopping at the Emory Pass Overlook for a panoramic view of the mountains and forest.
Emory Pass Overlook
Ride along with us for 30 seconds as we head down the mountain. Unless you get dizzy easily – then skip the video!
fasten your seatbelt as we drive through the Gila National Forest!
On yet another day we drove north to the Rio Grande Gorge
Rio Grande Gorge from the High Bridge
And the High Bridge, located about ten miles west of Taos.
the High Bridge
At six hundred feet above the Rio Grande, it is the tenth highest bridge in the United States, and a bit unnerving for even the most intrepid!
TG walked out into the middle of the High Bridge
I wanted to photograph the bighorn sheep that are common in this area, but all we managed to find were some fresh tracks.
bighorn sheep tracks
We detoured home via Ramah, with prehistoric cliff dwellings dating back to 1200-1300 A.D.
prehistoric cliff dwellings in Ramah, 1200-1300 A.D.
And stopped at the El Morro National Monument where a waterhole hidden at the base of a sandstone bluff made it a popular campsite for hundreds of years.
El Morro Visitor’s Center
We did not take the time to hike to the ancient campsite to see the over 2,000 signatures, dates, messages, and petroglyphs carved into the sandstone walls. Instead, we enjoyed a quiet picnic lunch in the Cibola National Forest before pointing ourselves back towards Lemitar and Casita del Cranes.
a picnic lunch in the Cibola National Forest
You can view all of our landscape photos from both the Bosque and our day trips here:
hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr
One day we drove to Gallup to visit the historic El Rancho Hotel. Opened in 1937, it was the base for many Hollywood movies filmed in the surrounding area and is full of movie star photographs and memorabilia.
such a fun day!
We had so much fun and took so many photos that this visit deserves its own Flickr album!
hover on photo and then arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr
Although we celebrated our 40th wedding anniversary back in October by splurging on a week at the McReynolds Blacktail Cabins in Grand Teton, the day we officially said “I do” was in November. We celebrated this special day with a long walk along the dirt road in front of Casita, dinner at the only restaurant in town open that day, and a night out shooting stars while being serenaded by howling coyotes. It was, indeed, a Happy Anniversary!
1982 /2022, my star stack, northern harrier in flight, and freight train wheels close up
During our month-long visit we sampled some of the local cuisine: huevos rancheros in Tularosa,
huevos rancheros at Loredo’s Bakery in Tularosa
Frito pie – which is shredded lettuce, tomatoes, beans, and cheese on top of Fritos mixed with red or green chile sauce – and considered a specialty in these parts.
My oh my, Frito Pie!
Piñon coffee – a “must” for coffee lovers in our opiñon!
piñon coffee and red chile veggie burrito
We also drove east and north to the tiny town of Corona for a delicious lunch at the El Corral Cafe, where real cowboys (complete with Old West hats) strolled in for their pick-up orders.
lunch at El Corral – where everyone feels like family
When ordering any dish with chiles, you are always asked “green” or “red.” We overheard a guest at El Corral say, “make mine Christmas-style.” And with December right around the corner, that is the perfect ending to our month in New Mexico!
Christmas – New Mexico style!
Coming Next: Westward Ho(ly Cow)! Mini Episode 3.5: “The BIG Surprise”
When we were planning the Grand Teton leg of our 5 ½ month road trip, TG happened upon a most unique accommodation: two cabins located inside the national park boundary and only 1.5 miles from the famous Mormon Row and Moulton Barns.
Welcome to McReynolds Blacktail Cabins!
McReynolds Blacktail Cabins looked like the perfect place, but TG said, “it’s a little out of our budget.” “Wait a minute,” I replied, “isn’t this 2022??? It’s our 40th wedding anniversary this year!”
1982 / 2022
Forty years of marriage is certainly worthy of a Grand Splurge celebration, don’t you think?!? TG inquired and the West Cabin was available the last week of October.
If you haven’t already read Episode 1: Walk on the Wild Side, you can click here to open a new tab and read all about our 32 nights in Big Sky, MT and Yellowstone National Park.
We left our Airbnb in Big Sky on Monday, October 24. It had snowed non-stop since early Saturday, and there was somewhere between 18-24 inches on the ground. It was a bit edgy going the nine miles down the mountain, but thanks to TG’s great driving we made it safe & sound.
Maddie checking out all the snow!
Any drive through Yellowstone or Grand Teton National Park is a potential photo safari so we always keep our cameras within easy reach. On the Rockefeller Parkway we saw two cars stopped on a bridge up ahead. Did they spot a moose? No! OMG!!! A huge grizzly bear was crossing the river!
a beautiful male grizzly bear
We quickly parked the car, and we got some wonderfully close shots of this magnificent animal as he lumbered by. We found out later that the locals have nicknamed this grizzly “Huck,” for the nearby Huckleberry Mountain. He is extremely elusive, so this was a rare and very fortunate spy.
“bear” feet!
Watch “Huck the Magic Grizzly” slowly walk by!
Thus began our animal count for Grand Teton NP. In addition to Huck, we also saw a coyote in the beautiful afternoon light,
coyote in the afternoon sun
A skunk, a badger, and a lovely herd of pronghorns.
pronghorn herd
We pulled into the driveway at McReynold’s West Cabin a little after 4 pm.
the West Cabin
The cabin was perfect, with everything we could need, and an incredible view of the Teton mountains.
both bedrooms face west towards the mountains
a beautiful kitchen with everything we needed
Oscar and Maddie loved looking at the mountains through the big picture windows
We woke up early Tuesday morning, excited to begin our week inside the park. As predicted, the sky threatened snow, so we headed to the Snake River Overlook to channel our inner Ansel Adams – aka concentrate on black and whites on this cloudy, gray day.
TG channeling his inner Ansel Adams
This is approximately where the famous photographer Ansel Adams took his iconic image of the Snake River and the Tetons rising above it – and helped convince Congress to designate this area a national park.
in this spot Ansel Adams helped convince Congress to make this a national park
After a picnic with a view,
a nice place to stop for a picnic lunch!
We drove to the Chapel of the Transfiguration, another iconic park image. This tiny rustic chapel was built in 1925 and provided local ranchers as well as tourists a place to worship close to home.
the Chapel of the Transfiguration
It is a spiritual place, with beautiful stained-glass windows in the foyer
the two stained-glass windows in the tiny foyer
And a view of the mountains behind the altar.
a view of the Teton range behind the altar
At the back of the chapel is a book for prayer requests. I am not a particularly religious person, but I wrote a special prayer in the book. It seemed the right thing to do in such a sacred space.
the prayer list
Within walking distance of the chapel is the old Menor’s Ferry. This was the only way across the Snake River before they built the steel truss bridge in 1927, making the ferry obsolete.
the old Menor’s ferry (replica)
Wednesday morning started out cold. From the coziness inside our cabin, we could see that the clouds over the mountains were dramatic.
sunrise from our deck
After a quick breakfast, we buddled ourselves up and spent some time photographing the Mormon Row barns.
three image pano
While TG concentrated on his long-exposure panoramas,
TG working on his panos
I entertained myself with the adorable little chipmunks that scurried about the old, wooden buildings.
TG’s pano of me with a chipmunk
little chipmunks scurry about the old buildings and fences
You can see all of TG’s beautiful Mormon Row Historic District photos here: (click on link to open in new tab)
Thursday morning started clear, and we drove the loop road, stopping to admire the beautiful sunrise along 191,
sunrise on 191
Oxbow Bend,
Oxbow Bend
And the Willow Flats Overlook.
Willow Flats Overlook
Along the way, we spied the largest herd of elk we had seen yet. There were at least 200 cows, all herded along by three or four large bulls. We could hear the bulls bugling, which sounds like something between a painful scream and a horse neighing and is part of their mating ritual.
some bulls will bugle so long and loud that they will lose their voices!
We stopped at the Jenny Lake Overlook,
Jenny Lake
couple’s selfie at Jenny Lake Overlook
And checked out the Taggart Lake trailhead. The clouds had started to move in, obscuring our view of the mountains, so we decided to leave the hike for another day.
Teton Park Road
By nightfall the clouds were gone, and millions of stars lit up the sky.
Milky Way from our cabin
The Big Dipper was perfectly positioned above the Teton mountain range, so I set up my tripod for a star stack.
88 30-second images shot over 90 minutes and then run through the Star Stax program
As I broke down my tripod 90 minutes later, I heard a loud rustling in the tall grass and the distinctive sounds of something (big?) crossing the small stream that runs through the property. A moose? A pronghorn? A coyote??? Whatever it was, it wanted nothing to do with me and given the number of mule deer we saw around the cabin, I’m guessing that’s what I most likely heard.
mule deer by entrance to McReynolds property
Friday was another cold but clear day. We found a nice set of black bear prints and TG may or may not have taken off his shoes and socks for a bear feet/bare feet photo op.
black bear print next to my hand
bear foot next to TG-I-mean-somebody’s size 14 bare foot!
We took advantage of the beautiful weather for another photo shoot at the Moulton Barns,
T.A. Moulton Barn
Went for a drive around the park,
Jackson Lake Dam
And captured the last vestiges of autumn before heading home for an afternoon nap.
orange-gold aspen leaves against the bright blue sky
That night the stars once again filled the sky. Around 9 pm, we drove the five minutes back to Mormon Row to capture the Milky Way rising above the famous T.A. Moulton Barn.
T.A. Moulton Barn with Milky Way
Before we arrived in the Greater Yellowstone/Grand Teton area, it was my dream to see a moose and we had already spied 35. After all of our great animal sightings over the past month, we started Saturday with no expectations.
we were incredibly fortunate with all of our animal sightings!
We decided on an early morning drive on the Moose-Wilson Road and no sooner had we turned the corner when we came upon two beautiful bull moose grazing in the meadow very close to the road.
no sooner had we turned the corner and we came upon two bull moose very close to the road!
On our way back, a cow had joined them! Make that 38 moose — so far!
moose cow
The beautiful Teton mountain range lined the west side of our drive as we made our way north.
Teton sunrise
A large group was pulled over at Oxbow Bend and as we hopped out of the car, we spied a bald eagle on the ice. TG managed to capture the eagle in flight along with a little beaver sitting nearby, hoping no one would notice him!
bald eagle in flight with beaver
The afternoon warmed into the balmy mid-40s with plenty of sunshine. We decided to hike to Taggart Lake – something we had been looking forward to all week. This beautiful glacier lake is a 3.2-mile round trip hike and is rated “easy” on the park website.
The trail crossed through flat, rolling sagebrush and past a little waterfall,
little waterfall on the trail
Before beginning a slow, gentle climb through aspen-covered moraine and pine forests.
the trail slowly rises through aspen-covered moraine and a pine forest
The lake is stunning, and we could not have picked a more perfect day. The water was like glass, reflecting the Teton mountains rising above it.
Taggart Lake
Despite it being so late in the season, there were plenty of hikers on the trail, meaning we did not see much wildlife besides chipmunks, squirrels, and a few snowshoe hare tracks.
the lake was like glass
It was simply a beautiful day for a lovely hike!
a beautiful day for a lovely hike!
You can see all of TG’s beautiful landscape panoramas here, including Taggart Lake:
hover on photo and then arrow through the set (to view in full, click to open a new tab in Flickr)
After a fun morning with the muskrats and beavers at Oxbow Bend, we relaxed on Sunday afternoon. We had been going pretty much continuously for the past six weeks and needed to ready ourselves for stop #3 on our road trip: New Mexico.
beaver on the Snake River at Oxbow Bend
We did enjoy a lovely last supper at Dornan’s Pizza & Pasta Company.
Dornan’s Pizza & Pasta in Moose, Wyoming
It’s nothing fancy, but it has a million-dollar view and was a relaxing place to enjoy the sunset.
dinner with a million-dollar view!
Our road trip thus far had been extraordinary. Between the two parks we had enjoyed 29 photo safari days and already a lifetime of memories!
Grand Teton National Park animal count: 10/24-11/1/2022
You can view all of our wildlife photos from Grand Teton on the Flickr link below:
hover on photo and then arrow through the set or click on the link to open a new tab in Flickr
Most locals say that fall is a perfect time to visit the Yellowstone-Grand Teton area. There are far fewer people and a 50/50 chance of decent weather year in and out. In our six weeks we only had two days of what we would consider “bad” weather.
almost six weeks of sunshine!
And McReynolds Blacktail Cabins was the perfect “Grand Splurge” for our 40th anniversary! It is a charming cabin and its location inside the park is priceless.
we loved watching the mule deer running through the tall grass from our deck!
the view from the Master Bedroom shower!
You can view all of our Grand Teton landscape photos on the Flickr link below:
hover on photo and then arrow through the set or click on the link to open a new tab in Flickr
As we left the Grand Tetons in our review mirror, our feelings were bittersweet. We were sad to leave this place, with its astounding beauty, but also excited to continue our journey.
a bittersweet farewell!
Coming next: Westward Ho(ly Cow) Episode 3 “Back to the Bosque”
sandhill cranes and snow geese at the Bosque del Apache, New Mexico
After months of tweaking the itinerary, we were finally ready to head west on our epic, 5 ½ month road trip. We pulled out of our driveway in Okeechobee, FL early Sunday morning with the plan to arrive at our Airbnb in Big Sky, MT on Thursday.
And we’re off!
We built in a little extra time for sightseeing, including stops in Tupelo, MS at Elvis’s birthplace, a Graceland drive-by,
the gates to Graceland, Memphis, TN
And the 27-mile scenic tour of South Dakota’s Badlands.
Oscar and Maddie tour the Badlands!
You can view photos of our quickie trip though the Badlands here:
hover on the photo and then arrow through the set
It was a long time to be in the car, but there was no traffic and 2,800 miles later we arrived in Big Sky as scheduled.
a long time to be in the car!
Domenick’s condo could not have been more perfect for us AND Oscar & Maddie. We had plenty of room to spread out and since it was a corner unit, plenty of privacy.
our home for the next 32 nights
It was located at the base of Lone Mountain, which offered us gorgeous views every time we stepped outdoors.
view of Lone Mountain from our back door
You can find Domenick’s condo on the Airbnb website here:
Yellowstone is as beautiful as they say – awe-inspiring around every curve of the road and unlike anywhere else on the planet.
coyote on Hayden Valley Road
But at 2.2 million acres, it is also massive. We spent our first week simply driving around, getting an idea of where everything was located and identifying the places we wanted to explore in depth.
Lewis Canyon
The weather was perfect: the mornings started chilly, but it warmed up nicely with blue skies and plenty of sunshine each afternoon. The fall colors had started to turn,
fall colors on the Gallatin River
And the rivers were full of fly-fishermen. They made for such good subjects it was impossible to not snap a photo or two as we drove along.
fly fishing on the Firehole River
There is an affordable audio tour app called GyPSy Guide, which I had purchased for Yellowstone & Grand Teton.
It proved to be an excellent way to navigate around the park and also hear enriching facts and stories as we drove along.
According to our Gypsy guide, the Madison River sees over 200,000 angler days per year –that’s an average of almost six hundred anglers Every. Single. Day! p.s. We named the narrator “Edward” after our wonderful guide in South Africa.
“200,000 angler days per year on the Madison River”
We also spent one day driving around the west side of the Tetons, over the pass, through Grand Teton NP, and then home via Yellowstone.
Teton Mountains looking east near Driggs, Idaho
top of Teton Pass, elevation 8,431 ft!
Given my absolute terror of heights, it was all I could do to snap the few pics I did while on Teton Pass. I was too busy breathing into a paper bag and eating crybaby pie.
oh my lordy lord!
It made for a long, nine-hour day (O & M are SUCH troopers!!)
our little road buddies
But we were rewarded with gorgeous views of the mountains from both the west and east sides.
view from Grand Tetons National Park
And at the end of the day, we spied a group of male moose grazing in a meadow alongside the road. Just that quick, my life count for moose jumped from zero to three!
two moose bulls
Thank You to the kind (and very talented) gentleman who offered to snap this pic!
The first thing most people think about when they hear “Yellowstone” is Old Faithful. But the park is made up of over 10,000 hydrothermal features including geysers, beautifully colored hot springs, steaming fumaroles, and boiling mud pots. The land is truly wild! Instead of racing through the park, trying to see as many features as we possibly could, we chose to visit places we had targeted to thoroughly explore:
Upper Geyser Basin, which has the most concentrated grouping of hydrothermal features in the world, including Old Faithful.
Old Faithful erupting around noon
We stayed long enough to see Old Faithful erupt three different times, from three different vantage points.
Old Faithful two-minute time lapse
On our 6-mile hike around the Upper Basin, we also saw Anemone, Spasmodic, and Beehive Geysers erupt.
Beehive Geyser
We walked as far as Morning Glory Pool, which is sadly fading due to all the coins and other items people keep throwing into the center.
Morning Glory Pool
warning signs everywhere and yet …
Midway Geyser Basin, home to the Grand Prismatic Spring, third largest hot spring in the world, and Excelsior Geyser.
Grand Prismatic Spring
Excelsior Geyser
We even managed the one-mile hike up to the Grand Prismatic Overlook.
Grand Prismatic Spring
obligatory couple’s selfie
A beautiful afternoon at the Fountain Paint Pots in the Lower Geyser Basin, with views of all four of Yellowstone’s hydrothermal features: geysers, hot springs, mud pots, and fumaroles.
a fumarole at Fountain Paint Pots – turn up the volume to hear the steam hissing out of the ground!
Clepsydra Geyser at Fountain Paint Pots
And a full day at Mammoth Hot Springs, with its amazing travertine terraces.
the terraces at Mammoth Hot Springs
Mammoth Hot Springs from the upper boardwalk
You can view all of our hydrothermal photos here:
hover on photo and then arrow through the set
Of course, Yellowstone is also all about the wildlife! I kept a count of all the animals and birds we spied and for “too many to count” I put an “X.”
our animal count 9/24-10/22/2022
By noon on our first day, bison were already an “X.” They are everywhere!
bison herd
bison on the road
One afternoon we received intel that Yellowstone’s celebrity grizzly bears, “Raspberry” and her cub, “Jam” had been spotted in the eastern section of the park. Raspberry is a 15-year-old sow with a history of keeping her cubs longer than usual. Typically, around two years bear cubs are on their own so that the mother can mate again, but in the spring of 2022, Raspberry and 2 1/2-year-old Jam were still seen together.
Raspberry and Jam
After a bit of detective work, we determined the general area. As we rounded a curve, we knew we were in the right place: a crowd of 150+ armed with big-lens cameras and binocs were all pointed in the same direction.
we knew we were in the right place!
Sure enough, Raspberry and Jam were there – a good 200 yards away and in harsh mid-day light but a thrill, nonetheless.
Raspberry and Jam!
And as if that were not enough, on our drive home we spotted a mountain goat, grazing high up on the side of a hill. What a magical, mystical end to our day!
mountain goat
TG had been battling a cough and a friend suggested it might be allergies. So, one Sunday afternoon we drove down the mountain for some local honey – a good home remedy. And on the way, we came upon a moose family grazing right by the side of the road!
Wow!
Besides beautifully terraced hot springs, Mammoth is also home to dozens of elk who like to hang out around the buildings and nicely manicured lawns. But that doesn’t mean they are in any way tame. Rangers are posted everywhere, reminding you to keep your distance.
the elk at Mammoth like to hang around the buildings
On our way home that day we spied three more moose: a bull who was doing his best to hit on two cows, neither of which wanted anything to do with him. But Oscar and Maddie had been in the kennel since early morning, so we had to hurry home before the grand finale — if there even was one.
she wanted nothing to do with him!
You can view all of our wildlife photos here:
hover over photo and then arrow through the set
Between all the rivers, waterfalls, lakes, and deep canyons that make up Yellowstone National Park, there are wildly beautiful landscapes everywhere you turn.
Golden Gate on the way to Mammoth Hot Springs
LeHardy Rapids – a hidden gem!
Artist’s Point is an iconic “must-photograph” image. It is a glorious waterfall that drops 308ft into the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone.
Artist’s Point
Hayden and Lamar Valleys have sweeping open plains with huge herds of bison and other animals,
Lamar Valley pano
Firehole River was named by early trappers for the rising steam which makes it look like it’s on fire.
Firehole Falls
And is one of only two places inside the park where you can actually swim!
you bet I dipped my toes in the river!
And Yellowstone Lake, the largest lake above 7,000 feet in North America. Research has found that if one could empty all the water out of Yellowstone Lake, the bottom is similar to what is found on the land: geysers, hot springs, and deep canyons.
panoramic view of Yellowstone Lake from Lake Butte Overlook
Indian Pond with Yellowstone Lake in the background
We also spent a day driving to Upper Mesa Falls, located about an hour west of Yellowstone. A wooden boardwalk lets you get so close you can feel the mist from the spray!
Upper Mesa Falls
And another delightful afternoon hiking to Ousel Falls, located in Big Sky.
Ousel Falls, Big Sky MT
You can view all of our landscape photos here:
hover on photo and then arrow through the set
“Animal Jams” are a quintessential part of Yellowstone. The animals in the park roam free, and that means they sometimes use the same roads we drive on.
a bit intimidating coming right at you!
On any given day, at any given time, in any given place you are likely to encounter stopped traffic. But it’s all part of the park’s experience so you just enjoy it — and try not to get frustrated!
we waited in this line for 90 minutes while a herd of bison lumbered along at 2mph
We had been in the Yellowstone area for a month and thus far blessed with unseasonably mild weather: warm days with plenty of blue skies and bright sunshine. But the forecast for the weekend of Oct 22 and into the following week did not look good. We decided to take advantage of what might be our last warm, sunny day and drive down to Grand Teton for some landscape shots.
Grand Teton National Park family portrait
T.A. Moulton’s famous barn
Oscar and Maddie enjoying the view from Schwabacher Landing
It’s a long 4-hour drive in good weather so we also booked an overnight at the Cowboy Village in Jackson.
our adorable little cabin at Cowboy Village, Jackson
We spent all day Friday in the park, shooting landscapes
Oxbow Bend, Grand Teton National Park
outhouse with the best view ever!
And all the wildlife we happened upon. In that one day of driving around, we saw a big male grizzly bear, a very dark gray wolf, a bald eagle, nine different moose (yes!!), a coyote, a ruffed grouse, and a little black bear.
a black bear enjoying some huckleberries
Old Man Winter showed up with a vengeance on Saturday morning.
Just like that we went from Indian Summer to Winter!
It took us 7 1/2 hours to get home. Part of that was driving below the speed limit on snowy, mountain roads. But we also sat for an hour in a “snow jam.” Someone had slid off the road and the rangers stopped traffic in both directions while we all waited for the tow truck. When the guilty car finally came by (his “drive of shame”) we saw it was a Range Rover of all things! I guess the guy got overly confident.
sitting in a “snow jam”
In spite of the wild drive home, it was well worth the trip!
“Home Sweet Home” looking a lot different than 32 hours ago!
Before we left Florida, I had already penciled this episode as “Walk on the Wild Side” for the “Wild West” and “wildlife” connotations. But between the wildly fantastic hydrothermal features of the park,
Grand Prismatic Spring colors close-up
All the wildly beautiful landscapes,
Yellowstone River
All the wildlife we saw, and the wild weather our last time driving through the park, our 32 nights in Yellowstone were indeed a Walk on the Wild Side!
little cinnamon bear
If you haven’t gotten enough photos, you can also check out our entire Flickr albums, which include pics not in any of the above categories as well as all of TG’s beautiful panoramas.
In June of 2022, we found ourselves in a bit of a predicament. We had a confirmed reservation at an Air BNB outside of Gardiner, MT for a month-long visit to Yellowstone National Park in September. As wildlife photographers, visiting the park was high on both our bucket lists: TG had never been and I was too young to remember much of my family’s visit in the early 1960s.
I’m wearing the sweatshirt but I don’t remember the trip!
But unprecedented flooding caused the park to close, with not a lot of hope that the north (Gardiner) entrance would be open any time this season.
Facebook photo: June, 2022
To salvage the Yellowstone portion of our trip we had a lot of boxes to check: the dates had to work as we were due at our next stop the third week of October. It had to be within an hour’s drive of one of the park’s entrances, it had to be dog friendly, and the price needed to be within our budget.
As luck would have it, we found a condominium in Big Sky, MT that fit the bill. It was located about 50 miles from the west entrance and was dog friendly.
we found a condo in Big Sky, MT
Something about the host’s Air BNB profile rang a bell. Could it be the same Domenick that owned and operated the Quito Inn & Suites in Tababela?!?
Is this the same Domenick?!?
Sure enough, it was! After the new international airport opened outside of Quito in 2013, it was the only place to stay those first few years and we met him on several of our trips to Ecuador.
Quito Inn & Suites, Tababela Ecuador (2013)
After catching up on old times, Domenick offered us the Big Sky condo at a considerable discount. Yellowstone, followed by eight nights in Grand Teton, was back on track.
Our original plan was to head to New Mexico the first week of November for the sandhill crane migration at the Bosque del Apache before heading home in early December. But we thought as long as we’re this far, why not just keep going?? So we added … and added … and added …
our epic road trip!
After the Bosque we drive north to Yellowknife, Northwest Territories to spend the holidays photographing the aurora borealis, then back south to Fargo, North Dakota for a chance to spy saw-whet owls, and finish with another month in the Sax-Zim Bog with the great gray owls.
a brand new set of Michelin Crossclimate 2 tires for the road!
By the time we’re back home in Okeechobee, Oscar and Maddie will have added six more states to their already impressive count (23 total), plus 3 Canadian provinces.
our little road buddies!
Blogging a trip this long must be broken up into several parts (“Episodes”) which I will post as we go. Travel along with us – or wait until we’re back home and binge-read them all at once. Either way, it should be quite the ride! So fasten your seatbelts and hang on as we hit the road – again.
So fasten your seatbelts and hang on as we hit the road – again!
Coming next: Westward Ho Episode 1 “Walk on the Wild Side”