Sony – On The Road with Tall Guy & JET

Eat, Pray, Click: Chefchaouen, Maroc

Morocco, or Maroc as it is known in country, has been on my list of “must-see” destinations for decades. Its unique blend of stunning landscapes, rich culture, and delicious cuisine is a photographer’s dream. However, with so much to see, it wasn’t easy to decide where to go and for how long. JET and I have always been “thoroughly explore one area” type travelers, so after much research, I settled on Chefchaoen, famous for its incredible architecture and beauty.

I was particularly excited about capturing the iconic blue colors of the city against the backdrop of the Rif Mountains. We decided that this would be a solo trip, giving me ample time to take the landscape shots I hoped for. And so, in September 2025, I departed from Pensacola Airport for an 8-day visit to the Blue City of Chefchaouen.

“M” is for Muslim

The main religion in Morocco is Sunni Islam, which is also the state religion of the country. Officially, 99% of the population is Muslim, and virtually all of those are Sunni.

The five daily calls to prayer, a fundamental practice in Islam, resonated throughout my visit to Chefchaouen. These calls, a constant in the city’s soundscape, served as a reminder of the profound role of faith in daily life. From the hijabs adorning women’s heads to the vibrant prayer rugs on display in the bustling markets, the influence of the Muslim faith was evident in the many photographs I captured. (click on photos to enlarge)

My visit to Chefchaouen also revealed the rich diversity of Islamic art. Islam prohibits figurative imagery in architecture, but that has not stifled creativity. Instead, it encouraged the development of other art forms such as mosaics and geometric patterns.

The city is a living testament to this artistic tradition; with so many examples, I spent most of my first full day wandering through the narrow streets and simply taking it all in. By the end of my visit, I was thrilled with what I had been able to capture but knew I had only scratched the surface.

I recorded the following call to prayer on my first night in the Blue City, and it became the soundtrack of my week.

Chefchaouen Call to Prayer

“A” is for Art

Ärt (noun) A diverse range of cultural activity centered around works utilizing creative or imaginative talents, which are expected to evoke a worthwhile experience, generally through an expression of emotional power, conceptual ideas, technical proficiency, or beauty. (Wikipedia)

Morocco in general, and Chefchaouen in particular, fit this definition perfectly and was the principal reason I chose this destination. I first saw photos of “The Blue City” some 20 years ago and had long ago added it to my bucket list of places to visit.

The medina is a ubiquitous part of most Moroccan cities and refers to the old part of town, where markets, vendors, restaurants, and people all coexist in perfect, chaotic harmony.

Chefchaouen’s medina is over 500 years old and was initially built as a fortress designed to protect against Portuguese invasions. Over time, it transformed into a vibrant hub influenced by Andalusian, Moorish, and Jewish cultures. The iconic blue, representing the sky and heaven, is believed to have been introduced by the Jewish community.

Art is visible everywhere in the medina:

Doors:

Windows:

Gates: (click on arrow to view photo set)

Sidewalks:

Steps: (click on arrow to view photo set)

Buildings: (click on photos to enlarge)

Murals: (click on arrow to view photo set)

Pavement: (click on arrow to view photo set)

Even in the wideness or narrowness of the streets and alleys:

An aerial view of the medina depicts a maze-like pattern that will test anyone’s sense of direction the first few times they visit. I happily found myself lost more than once!

Lighting plays a pivotal role in shaping the appeal of Chefchaouen. Revisiting the same spot at different times of the day unveiled a new perspective each time, a testament to the city’s ever-changing beauty. (click on photos to enlarge)

The early hours just after sunrise gave a soft, dreamlike look to the city. It was mostly deserted, waiting for the town to come alive with shopkeepers, residents, and day trippers. The city’s blue color was dominant at this time of day.

As the sun rose, the medina came alive with an explosion of colors as the shopkeepers displayed their wares and both locals and day trippers arrived. (click on arrow to view photo set)

plaza daytime
I bought two belts from this shop
local women chatting
Mustafa the rug weaver

After the sun set and evening fell, streetlamps created long shadows. The signature blue almost glowed in the night. People walking in the streets and squares seem to appear from the mist and then disappear just as quickly.

people seemed to appear and disappear quickly

Chefchaouen is situated in a valley within the Rif Mountain range. A short hike up above the city provided views that would make any landscape photographer or painter’s heart leap.

The time of day also factored into the mood of my images. Early mornings offered foggy, mystical views of the still-sleeping city. Midday sun highlighted the tableau of colors below. Sunset provided a serene blue hour color as the natural light faded and the city lights came on, one by one, revealing a nighttime jewel sparkling below. (click on arrow to view photo set)

early morning
midday
night

As I walked through Chefchaouen and on the mountain trails above it, I was reminded of the privilege I had to experience this beautiful, living canvas. It’s a journey that I’ll cherish forever.

“R” is for Riad

When I was researching my accommodation options in Chefchaouen, I was drawn to the unique charm of a riad. A riad, or traditional Moroccan home, is different from a typical hotel as it is built around an interior garden or courtyard.

In fact, the word “riad” stems from the Arabic word for “garden.” They are the most authentic options for travelers who want to experience the country’s culture and history and are usually located in the old medinas of most Moroccan cities.

Originally, these homes were commissioned and inhabited by the affluent, often accommodating several generations of the same family. The Hôtel Dar Terrae was no exception, being home to a large extended family.

I was pleasantly surprised by the exceptional personal service I received: a staff member greeted me at the taxi drop-off outside the medina and carried my luggage uphill to the hotel and into my room, making me feel well cared for. (click on photos to enlarge)

To make the most of the limited space available in Morocco’s crowded medinas, riads are typically narrow and tall, with at least two stories overlooking the central courtyard. These stories have open balconies, allowing residents to enjoy the fresh air and sunlight streaming in from the open roof.

The rooms were small, lacking a lot of storage space, but my not-quite-queen bed was comfortable enough, and the shower had plenty of hot water. (click on arrow to view photo set)

my not-quite-queen bed
small bath with plenty of hot water

While the open space did allow for a fair amount of ambient noise, the riad was a secure and convenient place to stay. More importantly, it offered great value for the money – approximately $30 per night, with breakfast included.

Hôtel Dar Terrae video tour during the morning call to prayer

The Adhan al-Fajr (dawn call to prayer):

Allahu akbar: (God is the greatest) Ashhadu anna la ilaha ill Allah: (I testify that there is no god but God) Ashhadu anna Muhammadan rasul Allah: (I testify that Muhammad is the Prophet of God) Hayya alas salah: (Come to prayer) Hayya alal falah: (Come to success) Assalatu khayrum minan naum: (Prayer is better than sleep) Allahu akbar: (God is the greatest) La ilaha illa Allah: (There is no god but God)

“O” is for Oranges

Morocco is one of the world’s leading producers of oranges, with 40% of the crop exported to the USA. The region around Chefchaouen is renowned for its citrus production, as the warm climate and fertile soil make it an ideal location for cultivating high-quality fruits, such as oranges. They are hand-picked, so only the ripest and best are selected.

Considering Chefchaouen’s warm weather and steep hills, a glass of cool, fresh-squeezed OJ was just what I needed on a hot, sunny day.

There were plenty of stands scattered about the city where I could quench my thirst, offering up to 24 different combinations of fruits. I drank my share of plain OJ or mixed with pomegranate or mashed avocado. The latter turned my drink into a creamy, out-of-this-world milkshake concoction.

Oranges play an essential role in expressing the unique charm of Chefchauoen – adding a splash of bright color against the blue background.

But oranges aren’t just for drinking. Their cultivation is deeply embedded in the local fabric – enhancing traditional dishes or adding sweetness to desserts.

Walking around the city and its surrounding hillsides, I saw citrus trees nestled against ancient buildings and landmarks. This timeless blend of natural beauty and cultural heritage underscored the importance of citrus as both a culinary treasure and a symbol of Moroccan identity, leaving me inspired.

“C” is for Cuisine

Think “Moroccan cooking” and you’re immediately transported to a world of exotic spices and distinct flavors. With its long history of colonization, Morocco draws from a fusion of international cuisines, including Arab, French, Spanish, and Mediterranean. My meals in Chefchaouen were a feast for the senses, capturing the essence of Moroccan heritage with traditional dishes like tagine, couscous, and harira soup. And what better way to experience a culture than through its cooking?

During my visit, I avoided the touristy spots near Plaza Uta El Hammam because they tend to be crowded, overpriced, and serve average food. I was, however, open to dining in busy local places, as long as the prices were reasonable, the food was excellent, and they were relatively free of the day trippers.

These restaurants stood out:

**Restaurant Jbaria** offered a fantastic tagine, along with complimentary appetizers, in a warm and inviting setting. Tagine is a traditional Moroccan dish that refers to both the dish itself and the clay pot in which it’s cooked. It combines vegetables, meat, or seafood along with spices, which are then slowly steamed together and served with either couscous or bread. (click on arrow to view photo set)

Jbaria menu
first night dinner – approx $9
veggie tagine with couscous
Restaurant Jbaria

**Restaurant Baladi** provided a simple atmosphere with affordable prices, generous portions, and outstanding local cuisine. (click on photos to enlarge)

harira soup with lentils, bread, salad, and water – approx $3.50

**Café Panorama Loubar**, located on a mountainside above Chefchaouen, served the best tagine I tried. It also featured stunning views (especially at sunset), friendly service from the owner, Abdul, and reasonable prices. However, meals were cooked to order so there was a bit of a wait. While waiting, I enjoyed excellent mint tea and delicious cookies. (click on arrow to view photo set)

Café Panorama Loubar entrance
Abdul, the owner
lunch
Chefchaouen sunset

There was a small café near Bab Souk, which opened at 7 AM—early for Morocco—offering good coffee, friendly service, and affordable, hearty breakfasts. (click on arrow to view photo set)

early morning coffee

Chefchaouen is also home to numerous takeout spots, stands, and carts offering a diverse range of food and drinks at low, street-food prices. (click on photos to enlarge)

A special note about mint tea: it is intended to be savored, allowing time to enjoy the presentation along with the flavor, and is a perfect way to take a break when exploring Chefchaouen’s bustling streets.

the art of mint tea

After sampling traditional fare for several days, on my last night in Morocco I dined at a contemporary pizza parlor in Tangier. The vegetarian pizza was exceptionally well-prepared, featuring a delicate, flavorful crust topped with fresh vegetables and finished with basil leaves.

In conclusion, Chefchaouen cuisine isn’t just about flavor — it is rooted in centuries of tradition and hospitality where every dish tells a story. (click on arrow to view photo set)

morning bread truck
a typical lunch at Restaurant Baladi
simply elegant figs
mint tea with bread and olives
the end of a delicious meal!

Merci beaucoup. À bientôt … (Thank you and see you soon)

My eight days in Chefchaouen were a sensory delight: the sight of a friendly street cat striking a perfect pose in a metal heart, the feel of her soft fur as she wrapped around my ankles,

The aroma, sound, and flavor of a sizzling bowl of bissara soup,

Bissara soup (turn up the volume to hear it sizzle!)

And the silent echoes of the generations who had walked these same alleyways in the centuries before me.

Before I left, I shared with JET my hope of returning with a portfolio of about 200 excellent photos. In the end, I came home with almost that exact amount. But the personal connection I felt with Chefchaouen was so strong that I could have chosen any single theme and easily captured 200 images of cats or people, even door knockers! This visit left me longing for more, and I’m already planning my return trip.

To view all of my photos from my Chefchaoen visit, hover on the image to arrow through the set or double-click to open a new tab in Flickr:

white robe-06658-DeNoiseAI-low-light-SharpenAI-Standard

You can observe a lot just by watching (Yogi Berra)

When TG and I first started road tripping, we quickly learned that while a 10 to 12-hour drive might get you from Point A to B, you miss a lot on the journey. Now, we limit our driving days to eight hours or less to allow for sightseeing along our route.

We left New Mexico on Wednesday to arrive in Gardiner, MT, by Friday. The second stop on our “Westward Ho II” road trip was Yellowstone National Park. When we visited the park in the fall of 2022, we had many wonderful animal encounters, but we longed to see more bears, especially cubs.

We spent Wednesday night in Gallup, N.M., and were on the road early Thursday morning, with a planned stop at Arches National Park before continuing to Provo, Utah. But first, we detoured by Ship Rock, a dramatic 7,177-foot-high rock formation on Navajo Nation land that figures prominently in Navajo mythology. We briefly chatted with Ray, a Navajo guide who was waiting for clients, took a few photos, and were on our way.

We drove north and west towards Arches, passing by another interesting rock formation called “Church Rock.”

And the beautiful Wilson Arch.

Regrettably, just after Wilson Arch, our plans took an unexpected turn. We found ourselves caught in a horrific traffic jam, with cars backed up for almost 15 miles. By the time we got through, it was too late to stop at Arches. Disappointed, we continued to Provo for the night, a reminder of the importance of building in extra time!

traffic backed up on 191 between Wilson Arch and Moab

We made it safely to Gardiner the following day with no further incidents. Our suite at the Super 8 was perfect: it had two bedrooms, two full bathrooms, a comfortable living area, and a fully equipped kitchen. We could not have asked for better accommodations for the four nights we spent outside the north entrance to Yellowstone.

view from our room at the Super 8, Gardiner (yes, that’s an elk by the building)

We were out the door early Saturday morning for our first photo safari into the park. There were herds of bison, pronghorns, and elk. We spied a moose cow with a small calf and later, two bulls. A coyote hunted in a field, and a red fox sashayed alongside the road with her mouth full of breakfast.

And much to our surprise and delight, a mama grizzly with two cubs! This sighting was lucky as they came down the hill at a pull-out, with only two other cars already at the spot. We spent a good ½ hour with them before enough people had arrived to make it an official “bear jam.”

grizzly mama and two cubs

One interesting side note about this sighting: Because we were staying at the Super 8, we could not leave O & M alone in our hotel room—they had to accompany us into the park. Typically, when people or cars are nearby, Oscar is a jerk (there’s a reason we call him “Oscar the Grouch”). But he and Maddie were quiet as church mice during the grizzly sighting. No one even realized we had two dogs in the car. The pups knew … them thar was BEARS!!

On Sunday, we got another early start. We arrived in Lamar Valley by 7 a.m., and just a few miles into our drive, we spotted a mama grizzly and her year-old cub across the river. They gave us a more typical bear sighting than we had experienced the day before – they were at least 200 yards away.

grizzly mama and year-old cub across the river

We moved on to the Trout Lake trailhead, where we had the close encounter yesterday. There were no bears this morning, so we slowly made our way back west. About a mile down the road, we saw our mama and the cubs coming down the mountain.

A bison herd grazing in the field scattered as soon as the bears arrived. We had no agenda today, so we waited and watched to see if anything happened. The bears stayed far off, almost out of reach of our lenses.

the bison scattered as soon as the bears arrived

At one point, mama lay down, and the two cubs began nursing. Although we were too far away to see much, witnessing this intimate moment was still a thrill. Afterward, both cubs were in a milk coma, and they all napped. By this time, we had been in that spot for over two hours.

Suddenly, mama started coming towards us, the cubs following behind. She wanted to cross the road to the river, but people and cars blocked her. She moved further down the hill, out of our sight, and finally crossed to the other side.

We continued west, stopping for a badger

And then a coyote before coming upon a huge group, watching a mama grizzly and three cubs high on the side of a hill. They were nothing more than little dots, even with our binoculars, so we didn’t linger.

Not much further, we spied a lone cinnamon morph black bear grazing in a field of dandelions. This sighting turned into another bear jam, so after taking a few shots, we moved on.

It was another awe-inspiring day in the park, filled with the wonders of nature. As we drove home, I casually told TG that although I was thrilled with all our grizzly sightings, I still hoped to see a black bear with cubs.

On Monday, we planned to make a day of it and packed a picnic lunch. The weather was cloudy and drizzly, but we managed to spy the mama and year-old grizzly we had seen the day before in Lamar Valley. We decided to drive the Dunraven Pass, a scenic road that leads over Mt. Washburn, reaching an elevation of 8,800 feet.

the drive over Dunraven Pass – lots of snow up on the mountain!

No sooner had we started the drive than we spied a black bear grazing along the side of the road.

A few miles further, we found ourselves in a classic Yellowstone bear jam. Two tiny black bear cubs were perched at the top of a tall tree, their mother keeping a watchful eye from below. Two rangers were on duty, managing the traffic and ensuring everyone’s safety. Ranger Fred shared, “Her nickname is Good Mama, but I call her Bad Mama as she’s been known to charge.”

The cubs were challenging to photograph. They were mostly hidden by branches and were nothing more than black blobs to the naked eye. Eventually, they woke up and started to climb down. Mama moved to the bottom of the tree, growing increasingly agitated. The crowd was kept back, 75 yards or more from the tree, as cars continued to pass by in both directions.

two tiny black bear cubs high up in a tree

As the situation escalated, Mama bear signaled the cubs to climb higher, and the rangers swiftly instructed us to return to our cars. “We’re turning this into a drive-by,” Fred said, “for the good of the bears and for your safety.” It was time for us to go.

Near Fishing Bridge, there is a pull-out called LeHardy Rapids. We stopped there for lunch and to photograph the beautiful harlequin ducks surfing on the Yellowstone River.

harlequin ducks (one male and two females)

We drove back to Lamar Valley, but with the on-and-off rain, it was a tough day for everyone. A lone coyote, an animal we often see around the park, had created a huge traffic jam while he sat on the ridge eyeing the crowd and wondering what all the fuss was about.

Tuesday was moving day. We stayed near Yellowstone for a few nights to get sunrise access to the park. But too many nights in a hotel room, plus riding around in the car all day, was not good for O & M – or for us. We had booked an Airbnb outside Livingston for the remainder of our time in Yellowstone.

Shepherd’s Nook was a true escape from the world, miles from any sign of civilization. Our home away from home was a cozy haven, equipped with all the essentials, including reliable Wi-Fi and a washer and dryer. The only light that broke the night darkness was the faint glow from Livingston, and the stars were breathtaking!

You can find the listing here:

The Shepherd’s Nook – Apartments for Rent in Livingston, Montana, United States – Airbnb

We had been going nonstop for a solid week and needed time to recharge, so we gave ourselves a day off on Wednesday. We spent the day leisurely, enjoying the view from our apartment. Oscar was enamored with the Richardson’s ground squirrels that played outside our ground-level windows – it was like TV for dogs!

On Thursday, we returned to Yellowstone. Our goal was to spot bears, and we ended the day with five separate sightings of black bears and cubs.

But the true magic was something extraordinary. A majestic black wolf sauntered through a field and crossed the road in front of us. TG swiftly drove ahead and turned into the first available pull-out. The wolf emerged over the ridge and posed in the most perfect, postcard-worthy light we could have hoped for.

After hearing of multiple wolf sightings viewed only through a scope or powerful binoculars, seeing one this close was a dream come true. The sheer majesty of the creature, with its sleek, black fur and piercing, yellow eyes, left us in awe.

12-image gif of the wolf crossing the road

Not long after that, a second wolf emerged from the river and crossed the road behind us—two close wolf sightings in as many hours!

a second close wolf sighting in as many hours!

Our Airbnb host, Judson, provided many suggestions for local wildlife safaris and scenic drives. We opted to stay close to home on Friday and Saturday to explore the nearby areas.

That evening, as if to affirm our decision, a herd of mule deer walked through the yard and down to the creek, a pronghorn appeared over the ridge, and a coyote stealthily hunted for dinner on the hillside across from our window.

We spent the two days simply unwinding and immersing ourselves in the tranquility of the area, much of which we could enjoy without leaving the property.

mule deer beside Adair Creek (below our window)

To experience the beauty of Shepherd’s Nook, click here:

shepherd pano 2-SharpenAI-Standard — hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr

Sunday was our last visit to Yellowstone. We began the day with two back-to-back bear sightings, so we were off to a great start!

Our drive took us towards Tower Falls, a place where we had previously spotted bears. However, luck wasn’t on our side this morning. Undeterred, we ventured to Lamar Valley, where a delightful surprise awaited us – the mama badger, leisurely sunbathing outside her den!

TG wanted to take some panos of the valley with bison grazing, so we moseyed west.

We encountered a mama bear and two adorable cubs as we made our way from Tower Junction back towards Mammoth. The scene was chaotic, with several cars and people crowding the area. In a moment of pure pandemonium, the bears crossed the road between the vehicles, then reversed course and retreated down the hill.

We stayed back, trying to get the best photos we could. Finally, a ranger arrived and brought order to the chaos.

We were happy to have one last sighting of a mama bear with cubs, but we also knew we were “done” with Yellowstone on this visit. Neither of us was comfortable with the huge crowds that seemed to have arrived overnight.

We spent our last two days near home, enjoying the wildlife around Shepherd’s Nook and preparing for the next stop on our road trip.

As we said goodbye to Montana, we were filled with profound gratitude. Between the Super 8 in Gardiner and the Shepherd’s Nook Airbnb, we spent 11 full days in the Yellowstone area. We dedicated five days to the park, spending an average of five hours per visit. While surrounded by countless bison, pronghorn, and elk, our hearts were set on spotting bears.

bison and red dogs crossing the road in Lamar Valley

And in the end, we were rewarded with 37 grizzly and black bears in 16 unique sightings, with eleven of those being a mama and cubs.

But the most awe-inspiring moment—surpassing even the bear sightings—was the wolf we were fortunate to encounter on June 6, 2024. It was truly extraordinary, as he passed no more than two car lengths in front of us.

It is a moment we will cherish forever.

To see all the photos from our eleven days in the Yellowstone area click below:

TG:

coyote-05075-SharpenAI-Standard-DeNoiseAI-low-light — hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr

JET:

Grizzly mama and cubs — hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr

Coming next … Palouse-La Trek

It’s Only Rock & Roll (& Rattle) But I Like It

TG and I both reached a milestone birthday in 2024, a year shaping up to be full of memorable moments. We celebrated my big day by spending a week in Crystal River, FL snorkeling with the manatees.

Three Sisters Springs, Crystal River, FL, January 2024

TG, a lifelong Rolling Stones fan, was over the moon when we learned that the first stop on the Stone’s Hackney Diamonds tour was in Houston, conveniently on our way to New Mexico. We added two nights onto the beginning of our trip and could barely contain our excitement as we purchased tickets for the April 28 concert. Happy Birthday, TG!

It was a great show, with the timeless talent of Mick, Keith, Ronnie, and the band combined with incredible technology. We had a fantastic time, singing along to old favorites and grooving to songs off their new album.

The following morning, we continued our journey west. After two visits to the Bosque del Apache in November, we were eager to experience the unique charm of New Mexico’s desert in the hot summer months with its colorful rattlesnakes, lizards, and toads.

This visit marked our third stay at Casita del Crane’s, Pam’s cozy Airbnb in Lemitar. It has become our home away from home and a perfect base for explorations.

Pam is always interested in our photo safaris and sharing goodies such as fresh greens from her organic garden. These personal touches make our stays here so special.

Pam selling her organic veggies and eggs at a local farmer’s market

You can find her listing here:

https://www.airbnb.com/Casita del Cranes

Something we’ve always enjoyed about staying at Pam’s is all the nature that greets us right outside our door.

A stroll through her garden or a walk on the dirt road alongside the creek is a wildlife adventure in itself. We’ll often see roadrunners scurrying along the railroad tracks — so cliché it’s comical!

And the rumble of the freight trains that pass by, accompanied by a long, lonesome whistle and clickety-clack of the cars, is charming.

You can view all our photos from our walkabouts at Pam’s here:

casita pano 05292024-1 — hover on photo and then arrow through the set or click to open a new tab in Flickr

We explored Spring in the Bosque del Apache – a different time of year than previous visits. It was a tranquil place, with none of the mad frenzy we witnessed during the sandhill crane migration in November.

While we searched for reptiles,

western zebra-tailed lizard, Bosque del Apache

We also enjoyed all the birds and other wildlife that call this area home.

vermillion flycatcher, Bosque del Apache

We drove to the Valley of Fires, a lava flow covering 125 square miles. From a distance, it looks like black, barren rock, but as you hike the trails, you’ll see many varieties of desert flowers, cacti, and trees.

Mountain tea growing out of the black lava, Valley of Fires

The valley was formed around 5,000 years ago when a volcano erupted, leaving behind a trail of molten lava. It’s a fascinating place, a stark contrast between destruction and new life.

Thanks to TG’s keen eyes and trusty binocs, we watched as ground squirrels and Harris’s antelope squirrels foraged for breakfast.

Harris’s antelope squirrel (Ammospermophilus harrisii), Valley of Fires

It’s a birdwatcher’s paradise, and we spied ash-throated flycatchers, black-throated sparrows, and western tanagers among other birds.

ash-throated flycatcher, Valley of Fires

Just a week after settling in, we were back on the road for another concert. The Stones were performing in Glendale, AZ on May 7, just a seven-hour drive away. One of TG’s best friends from high school and his brother live in the Phoenix area, so along with Dan, Bill, and their wives, we purchased Stones tickets for a second show in as many weeks.

After dinner and some quality catch-up time, we piled into our cars and headed over to State Farm Stadium. The atmosphere was electric, with fans of all ages eagerly anticipating the show. And the Rolling Stones did not disappoint.

Their performance was off-the-charts, even better than the tour opening in Houston.

“I know it’s only rock & roll but I like it” (Yes that’s me singing along with Mick)

The drive to and from Arizona was beautiful. Our route took us up and over the mountains, with every curve in the road a new, breathtaking view.

We finished our second week with a lot of rock and roll …

A lot of rocks …

And a lot of lizards …

greater earless lizard, Bosque del Apache

But no rattlesnakes – unless you count the what-we-thought-was-dead snake lying in the middle of the road. By the time we turned around to get a proper ID, it was gone. Either a raptor scooped it up or it slithered off on its own! 😲

On the night of May 10, the Earth was hit by a G5 solar storm, a rare and powerful event that occurs when a large amount of energy is released from the sun’s atmosphere. This was the strongest geomagnetic storm in 21 years, causing the KP index to spike to 9. The internet exploded with photos from as far south as Key Largo, FL, capturing the stunning auroras that were a result of this storm.

TG woke me at 2:30am. “You’re going to want to come outside,” was all he had to say for me to be up and out the door with my camera and tripod. Visible even to our naked eyes, we were amazed at what we could capture with our lenses.

In the hour we stood outside, awe-struck, the sky changed colors from vivid reds to purples & greens to pinks & oranges. It was hard to put away our cameras and go back to bed!

We started Week Three with high expectations. We were each going to have a solo adventure, with TG embarking on a trip to Prince Rupert, British Columbia, while I stayed back at Pam’s with Oscar and Maddie.

Oscar spies a roadrunner in Pam’s garden

I dropped TG off at the Albuquerque airport on Monday afternoon. He was due back on Friday after an overnight flight from Vancouver. The three days stretched before me, and I planned to make the most of them.

When I took O & M out later that evening, we stumbled upon a woodhouse’s toad (Anaxyrus woodhousii) sitting in the driveway! These toads are native to the western United States and eat a variety of insects and scorpions—so a welcome visitor to have around the house!

The following morning, I decided to hike the Canyon National Recreation Trail in the Bosque del Apache. This trail is a 2.2-mile “lollipop” loop through the Chihuahuan Desert, the Solitude Canyon, and a climb to the top of a 200ft mesa.

I had no doubt I would see birds and lizards

But with snakes proving challenging to find, I started my hike with zero expectations. Little did I know I was in for an astonishing surprise.

As I stepped off the trail for a closer look at something, I found myself face to face with a magnificent western diamondback rattlesnake, basking in a puddle of warm sunshine! The sheer beauty of the moment left me breathless.

After capturing countless photos, I continued my hike. When I returned to the start of the loop, I retraced my steps, hoping to catch another glimpse of my resting beauty. However, she had gracefully moved on. I whispered a silent ‘Thank You‘ to the wilderness and made my way back to the car.

western diamondback rattlesnake, 5-14-24

What an exciting start to my solo week!

The following day, I returned to the Canyon Trail. To my delight, Resting Beauty was still in the same area, nestled under a bush with thick, tangled branches providing a near-perfect camouflage.

western diamondback rattlesnake, 5-15-24

Ater taking a few shots, I moved on, leaving her undisturbed. As I continued my hike, I was thrilled to spot four more different lizards, each one new to me.

And then, as if to add a touch of whimsy, I came across an adorable desert cottontail, its soft fur blending perfectly with the sandy landscape.

You can see all the photos from my Canyon Trail hikes here:

western diamondback rattlesnake — hover on photo and then arrow through the set or click to open a new tab in Flickr

On Thursday I woke to a thunderstorm, but by noon the skies had cleared, and the cheerful chirping of birds beckoned me to the nearby Socorro Nature Area, a BLM reserve just three miles from Pam’s.

brown-crested flycatcher, Socorro Nature Area

The sky over the mountains looked ominous, but there was sunshine overhead. So, I ventured out on the one-mile loop to see what I could see.

As I walked along, the air was filled with the calls of many different birds, including a pair of Gambel’s quail. These birds, with their distinctive topknot of black feathers, captivated me on our first visit to New Mexico in 2021. Their call resembles a meowing cat; when alarmed, they gurgle like they’re underwater. On that first visit, I thought they were rare and intriguing. I still find them charming, but they are so common that these days I’m much more selective about when I snap a photo.

Gambel’s quail (male), Socorro Nature Area

I checked the dead logs and scrub for signs of life and was thrilled to spot several lizards. I’ve learned the ID’s of so many lizards on this trip: “A common side-blotched,” I whispered to myself, and later “a checkered whiptail!”

common side-blotched lizard, Socorro Nature Area

You can see all the photos from my Socorro Nature Area hikes here:

Entrance sign — hover on photo and then arrow through the set or click to open a new tab in Flickr

That night, TG called while awaiting his flight from Vancouver. He was excited about everything he had seen in Prince Rupert and couldn’t wait to share his experiences with me. And I was just as excited to share my three days with him. Our solo adventure week had been a win-win!

TG on the Prince Rupert Adventure Tours “Inside Passage”

You can read TG’s Prince Rupert blog here (right click on title to open in a new tab):

Murals and Eagles and Bears, Oh My!

right click on title to open in a new tab

TG wanted to work on his photos, so on Saturday I returned to the Canyon Trail hoping to spot Resting Beauty – or one of her cousins. There were no snakes that morning, but I was delighted to add another new lizard to my growing list: a long-nosed leopard!

TG and I went back to the Canyon Trail three more times after that, and on two occasions we spied Resting Beauty tucked tightly beneath a thick tangle of branches. She didn’t give us *quite* the photo-op of my first sighting but it was a thrill nonetheless!

Pam and Steve invited us to a BBQ party one afternoon. We wanted to stick close to home, so that morning we headed to the Socorro Nature Area.

TG photographing lizards at the Socorro Nature Area

We spotted several lizards, including two new ones: a desert side-blotched lizard and a Chihuahuan spotted whiptail.

TG stepped towards a rock to photograph yet another lizard when WHOOPS! he almost stepped on a five-foot bull snake, fully stretched out and basking in the morning sun.

WHOOPS! a 5-foot bull snake fully stretched out, basking in the morning sun

I saw him jump out of the way before I saw what made him jump. What a big, beautiful girl she was! As we watched, she slithered up a pile of dirt and into her little hidey-hole.

Later that day, we walked next door for the BBQ. Most of Pam and Steve’s friends are musicians, and we were treated to a delightful afternoon of good conversation and the soulful sounds of rock and roll.

Grateful Dead, Tom Petty, John Prine, and their own original songs

One day we couldn’t resist checking out one of the quirkiest roadside attractions you will spy driving around Albuquerque: a giant rattlesnake gliding down the median on a long hill near the airport.

The snake has spawned many urban legends, but the real story is simple. When the city hired Sites Southwest to landscape the median, they were faced with a challenge. Plants were not an option, as there was no water source. So, they decided upon a sculpture that spoke to the region, and what better way to represent New Mexico than a giant rattlesnake made of rocks?!?

Albuquerque’s giant rattlesnake sculpture

With incredible geological formations, New Mexico’s many wilderness areas allow you to immerse yourself in the tranquility and beauty of nature. San Lorenzo Canyon, a mere six miles from Pam’s, is one of these unique gems.

This natural wonderland contains picturesque sandstone cliffs, mesas, arches, and hoodoos.

It reflects millions of years of Earth’s history – a landscape shaped by the movement of tectonic plates and erosion.

The beauty of the place is truly inspiring!

We dedicated two days to exploring the San Lorenzo Canyon. Our goal was to search for wildlife while capturing the breathtaking landscapes.

On our first morning hike, we spied several lizards, colorful desert flowers, beautiful birds, and four antelope jackrabbits that scattered as soon as they caught sight of us.

the antelope jackrabbits scattered as soon as they caught sight of us

We stuck to paths we felt confident to hike. However, there was one climb that I decided to abort midway.

I feared that what went up might not be able to come down, so I turned around and let TG scramble to the top.

On our second visit, we drove the 5 ½ miles to the canyon’s end. The road dead-ends at a small spring, surprisingly full of cold, somewhat muddy water.

the spring at the end of the San Lorenzo Canyon Road

We hiked around on the rocks, looking for lizards and other wildlife while also shooting the stunning rock formations.

Not intending to rockhound, I found two lovely pieces of sparkling pinky-white quartz!

We got up early one morning to explore the Petroglyph National Monument, just outside of Albuquerque. This national park is home to one of the largest petroglyph sites in North America.

There are multiple trails at the park, each of varying length. We chose to hike the Piedras Marcadas Canyon, a 1.8-mile loop. Although the Piedras (rocks) Marcadas (marked) were named by the Spanish settlers who came to this area during the mid-1600s, most of the petroglyphs were made by ancient Pueblo people 400-700 years ago, and to this day have profound cultural and spiritual significance.

Upon starting our hike, we were delighted to spy a jackrabbit feeding in the early morning light. Later we came across a mother and four baby Harris’s antelope squirrels scampering around on the rocks.

a family of Harris’s antelope squirrels (Ammospermophilus harrisii)

That evening, Pam and Steve invited us to a “Sundowner.” We drove to a remote area to view the ocotillo cacti blooming on the hillsides and enjoyed cheese & crackers while watching the sunset. As the skies grew dark, nighthawks and bats swooped in the air above us.

It was a wonderful end to our fourth week in New Mexico!

We were under no pressure during our final week. Our count was now up to 14 lizard, one toad, and two snake species—including four sightings of the western diamondback. We revisited many of the trails we had hiked before and began preparing for the next stop on our road trip.

However, New Mexico had one more surprise in store for us. Pam’s sister lives in Polvadera, just a ten-minute drive away. A pallid bat, Antrozous pallidus, had decided to take a nap on the side of her house! Pam drove me over to photograph this lovely little creature, sharing in the excitement of the moment.

Some might call us crazy for dedicating more than a month to the pursuit of snakes, lizards, and toads. And rest assured, we’re not planning to swap our beloved Oscar and Maddie for a pet python any time soon! But after a lifetime of capturing the wonders of our world underwater and the dozens of birds and mammals we’ve encountered on land, we felt it was time to turn our lenses towards the often-overlooked cold-blooded creatures.

The animals in New Mexico’s desert are uniquely beautiful, and our journey of photographing them has opened our eyes to a whole new world. We hope this blog has sparked a sense of wonder in you, inspiring you to seek out and appreciate the beauty surrounding you, no matter where your journey takes you.

To view all of our photos from New Mexico visit our Flickr albums below.

TG:

giant roadrunner-03332-SharpenAI-Standard-DeNoiseAI-standard — hover on photo to arrow through the set or click to open a new tab in Flickr

JET:

western kingbird — hover on photo to arrow through the set or click to open a new tab in Flickr

Coming next … “You can observe a lot just by watching.” – Yogi Berra

Westward Ho(ly Cow)! Episode 6: Sax-Zim Bog-Golly We’re Back!

In 2022 we spent a month at the Sax-Zim Bog in Northern Minnesota. This 300+ sq mile area is home to a wide variety of winter birds and animals including great gray owls. We were incredibly fortunate with our sightings that month with 25 great grays, 8 barred owls, 4 snowy owls, one northern hawk owl, 8 bald eagles, two pine martens, multiple porcupines, a bobcat, a red fox, and many of the regular winter birds.

We knew we could never top our 2022 trip and debated whether to include a stop on our way home this year. But since we were practically driving right by, we booked a week at an Airbnb in Hibbing. Kalen’s place was perfect: roomy and comfortable with everything we needed, plus conveniently located to both downtown Hibbing and the Sax-Zim Bog.

You can find Kalen’s Airbnb listing here: Lovely 2 bedroom ground level rental unit – Apartments for Rent in Hibbing, Minnesota, United States – Airbn b

According to everyone we spoke to, great gray owl sightings were down this year. The resident owls were all seasoned hunters, snow totals less than half of what they should be in January, and temperatures warmer than normal.

much less snow and warmer temps than normal for January

This combination allowed the owls to catch their voles at the night, with no need to hunt alongside the road in the daytime. Owls were seen sporadically pre-dawn or at dusk, in extremely low light conditions. Of course, I was optimistic that we would see at least one before our week was over.

cars waiting for a GGO along Hwy 7 at sunset

On our first day, we did see a northern hawk owl, so far away it was only an owl-shaped outline even with my fully zoomed Nikon P900. Some people had blazed a trail through the snow to get closer and in doing so flushed her even further from view.

nothing more than an owl-shaped outline!

As fortunate as we were in 2022, we kept coming up owl-less on this visit. Not to be discouraged, we focused on some of the smaller bird species that had eluded us last year or that we wanted to improve upon.

There was a lovely flock of snow buntings at the gravel pits on Admiral Road and we caught them one morning in the bright sunshine.

TG was able to capture some beautiful images of a boreal chickadee at the Arkola Road feeders – another species that eluded him last year.

He also managed to catch a Canada Jay stretching a glob of peanut butter like saltwater taffy.

I was able to spy both male and female evening grosbeaks together at the feeders on Admiral Road.

That was three new bird species for TG and two for me: not bad for a week with “not much happening!”

It snowed all day on Monday, January 16, and we woke up to six inches of new snow on Tuesday morning. We followed the snowplows through the bog,

And accidentally flushed a barred owl in the pre-dawn light.

The fresh snow seemed to have picked up sightings and we caught several of the winter birds at the feeders around the Bog:

Black-capped chickadees,

Evening and pine grosbeaks,

female pine grosbeak & male evening grosbeak

Multiple species of woodpeckers,

And much to our delight the return of the northern hawk owl!

After spending some time with the hawk owl, we decided to head home but first detoured past the spot where we saw the barred owl earlier that morning. Imagine our surprise when she returned while we were chatting with two other men who happened to stop by at that same time.

It was just the four of us, and she stayed long enough for us to snap a few photos before once again disappearing into the woods.

she patiently sat while we snapped a few pics and then disappeared into the woods

We decided to leave Hibbing a day early to shave a few hours off our drive on Friday. Wednesday the 18^th was our last full day in the Bog. We were headed towards the Admiral Road snow buntings when something big caught our eye: no sooner had we grabbed our cameras when she nose-dived into the snow and disappeared. It was a great gray owl. No photos but a thrill nonetheless!

With that encouraging spy we agreed that, if we could get packed and ready, we would make one last run out to the Bog early Thursday morning. We left the house at 7 am, feeling drawn towards Overton Road where GGOs had recently been spotted. Overton Road is in the western section of the Bog, not heavily trafficked, and a long drive from most of the areas we had frequented over the week.

No sooner had we turned down the road when we got a message: “GGO on Overton. Look for the blue SUV.” We were at the spot within ten minutes, the first car behind the ladies who had spied her.

great gray owl on Overton Road, January 19, 2023

We spent almost an hour with this magnificent creature, and I left crying tears of joy. A huge, heartfelt Thank You to Beth and Debbie who so kindly shared this sighting with us and the handful of folks who happened to be out that early — and close by!

Great grays, also called Phantoms of the North, are the largest owls in the US, and one of the most elusive. They tend to avoid areas with people and even in places like the Sax-Zim Bog it is a treat to see one. We feel fortunate that on this short trip we were able to spy two.

Final tally for the week: two sightings of a barred owl, two sightings of the northern hawk owl, a quick look at a great gray on Admiral Road, an hour-long visit with a great gray on Overton, and multiple winter birds around the Bog.

“There are few guarantees in the world of birds, but if you keep an open mind and an open heart, a winter day in the Sax-Zim Bog may be frozen, but like ice cream, it’s guaranteed to be sweet.” (Laura Erickson)

You can view all of our photos from this visit at our Flickr links below:

TG:

snow buntings-DeNoiseAI-low-light-gigapixel-standard-scale-2_00x — hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any to open a new tab in Flickr

JET:

Sax-Zim Bog — hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any to open a new tab in Flickr

Coming Soon: Westward Ho(ly Cow)! Episode 7: Eastward Home!