Almost Nothing Stays the Same

Every summer humpback whales make their way up the coast off South America from Antarctica to breed and give birth. We have traveled to the small fishing village of Puerto Lopez, Ecuador multiple times to photograph this migration and after a three-year hiatus due to Covid, we were finally able to return in August 2022.

Fort Lauderdale airport

International air travel has changed since the last time we flew:  there are new health forms to fill out, the airports are crowded and disorganized, and the planes are packed.

Guayaquil airport

But our flights were relatively on time and our luggage arrived with us, so our travel was easy compared to some of the horror stories we’ve heard!

our flights were relatively on time and no lost luggage!

Puerto Lopez is a three hour drive north of Guayaquil airport and our pre-arranged taxi was there to meet us at midnight.  Years ago, on our first visit to Puerto Lopez, we discovered Hosteria Itapoa, a delightful bed & breakfast, and have stayed there ever since.

Hosteria Itapoa

It was like coming home to find our bed in cabana 16 ready for our 3 am arrival!

coming home to cabana 16!

The gardens at Itapoa grow more beautiful each year and every morning at breakfast we tried to capture a few of the birds that flitted around us.

a few of the beautiful birds in Itapoa’s gardens

The dogs are still there, including “Pelican”, who we first met as a little puppy!


The town of Puerto Lopez has changed a lot since our last visit.  Many restaurants and shops did not survive the pandemic but we were happy to find a few of our favorites still in business.

our favorite restaurant, Patacon Pisa’o, is still in business and as delicious as ever!
Aloha Cafe is still there (and now you can get a tattoo while you wait)

We also discovered some new gems.

The Blue Boobie is a new restaurant with very good vegetarian options!

Where there were once just a few ramshackle beach bars spaced quite far apart, there is now a continuous strip of competing, brightly decorated full-service restaurant/bars, each blaring loud music and lit up at night like the Las Vegas strip.

the beach bars at night

The fisherman still come in at the southern end of the beach in the early mornings — the same cacophony of colors, sounds, and smells.

Puerto Lopez fish market

Years ago we found Palo Santo Travel, one of the many whale-watching tour companies in town.

Palo Santo office

We were impressed with the respect with which both the captains and guides treated the whales and found out later that the owner, Cristina Castro, is affiliated with the Pacific Whale Foundation. 

Palo Santo II
Cristina, Captain Paul, and guide Silvano

The Pacific Whale Foundation partners with various research programs and Palo Santo allows guests to accompany them on scientific outings. 

riding along on a research outing

This year’s project is part of the Southern Hemisphere Humpback Whale Sentinel Program, out of Griffith University in Brisbane, Australia.  Tissue samples are being collected to study organic pollutants as well as determine the size of the fat cells in the whale’s blubber — an indication of their food supply.

getting ready to collect a tissue sample

PWF’s Juliana fearlessly stood on the bow of the boat collecting samples from the massive, 40-ton animals, looking for all the world like Xena, the Warrior Princess.


While Luna watched from above, taking photos and meticulous notes on which whales were biopsied, the GPS coordinates, and the weather conditions.

Luna and Captain Paul
meticulous note-keeping

It was exciting and interesting to watch and learn – plus it gave me a new appreciation for the courage of scientists in the field!

the boat got very close to the whales!

Each day the two Palo Santo boats traveled to Isla de la Plata, an island located approximately 25 miles from Puerto Lopez.  We looked for whales on our way to and from.

on our way to Isla de la Plata (Palo Santo I)

Once on the island, we had the opportunity to enjoy the many green sea turtles swimming in the bay,

there are always green sea turtles swimming in the bay at Isla
wet landing off the boat

And then hike up to the top of the hill

800 meters a little flat and then 156 steps up

to enjoy the blue-footed boobies,

blue-footed booby pair
hiking on Isla de la Plata

Nazca boobies,

nazca booby with egg

Magnificent frigatebirds,

magnificent frigatebird with chick

And the many other birds that call this “Poor Man’s Galapagos” home,

collared warbling finch
Baird’s flycatcher
long-tailed mockingbird

Along with gorgeous views from high up on the cliffs.

the view from the top

There is always time to snorkel in the bay and I have loved diving down to listen to the whale songs or photograph the fish and turtles. 

always time for snorkeling (photo by Silvano)

But this year the water was too cold for this wimpy South Floridian, so I passed my underwater camera to Silvano who had fun snapping pics of what he spied.

underwater photos by Silvano

In past years we have been treated to amazing breaching activity – part of the whale’s mating ritual. 

mother’s tail and calf’s head

And although we saw an occasional breach and plenty of mothers with calves, we had yet to find a good “jumper” on this trip. We were starting to feel a little frustrated with our photos thus far.

one quick jump and he was done

We are early risers and were ready for coffee long before Itapoa’s 8 o’clock breakfast so each morning we walked down the beach to a spot open at 7 am:  Jouser. 

Jouser’s beachfront restaurant opened at 7 am
morning coffee at Jouser

It was at Jouser that we met a tour operator named Winston Churchil. (Yes, Churchil with one “L”)

me, Winston, and TG

Winston arranged for us to go out on a small panga with Miguel, a local fisherman. 

Miguel and his panga

There are five things needed for perfect whale photos: 

(1) Good light at your back – which is tough in Puerto Lopez as it’s almost always overcast in July and August. 

perfect light — rare in Puerto Lopez in July and August!

(2) The boat must go slow and steady as possible. 

(3) Patience – a lot of it! 

(4) A good captain who knows whales and knows the waters.


(5) Luck – although a good captain can make his own luck.

Miguel was an excellent captain!

We hit the jackpot with Miguel.  The sea was calm and the light was beautiful.  For once the sun was shining and the sky was blue.  Miguel puttered along at a rate so slow we were barely moving.

slow and steady driving

It took some patience but in the end we were rewarded with a beautiful baby humpback breaching over and over and over.  It was magical.

a baby whale breaching in perfect light against the backdrop of Puerto Lopez

Another change this year was that our favorite captain, Jaime, was no longer with Palo Santo.  He was the best captain we’ve ever had and we sorely missed his expertise on the boat.

Captain Jaime, 2013

One morning Jouser was closed so we backtracked to Spuma del Mar, an open-air restaurant on the Malecon.  This turned out to be incredibly fortuitous.  

morning coffee at Spuma del Mar

While sitting at a sidewalk table at Spuma, a passing car suddenly slammed on the breaks and the driver hopped out.  It was Captain Jaime and what a joyful reunion we shared! He now runs his own boat and agreed to take us out for a private tour on Monday morning, our last full day. 

Captain Jaime!!

As expected, it was off the charts.  Captain Jaime delivered not one but two jumpers.  We had a whale breach right next to the boat 43 times – 43 ½ if you count a spy hop. 

Captain Jaime, me, and the jumper
43 1/2 breaches in a row!

And as one was jumping right in front of us, we had another whale in the distance that also breached — 11 times!

another whale breaching in the distance

Captain Jaime and I kept count, whooping and shouting out the numbers until I finally said I need to switch to English as it’s too hard for me to keep track of both jumpers and also remember how to count in Spanish!

grinning like the Cheshire cat!

When it appeared that the whales were finally at rest, I asked if we could look for the “lobos marinos” (sea lions) on Salango Island. 

It was a bit of a detour but Capt Jaime readily agreed and beelined us to the island where we found six big, beautiful sea lions sunbathing on the rocks.

sea lions on Salango Island

It was everything we could have hoped for and we could not have scripted a better end to our week in Puerto Lopez. 

TG and Captain Jaime at Salango Island

We’re already dreaming about going back!

Hasta Pronto Puerto Lopez, see you soon!

You can view our complete Flickr albums by arrowing through the below images.


salango Pano 1-SharpenAI-Focus-DeNoiseAI-standard


Machalilla National Park, Puerto Lopez Ecuador

Alone Again, Nature-Ally

Milky Way season runs April through September in Florida but there’s no guarantee that you will be able to photograph it. More often than not, clouds block out most of the night sky. Even when it’s clear the amount of moisture in the air can make the stars look like they’re under a layer of rippling water.

Milky Way over Kissimmee Prairie Preserve State Park

All that being said, one of the best places around here to see and photograph the Milky Way is Kissimmee Prairie Preserve State Park. So, I took a chance and booked two nights over the new moon in May.

We knew that tent-camping with the pups was not an option. So, we agreed that TG would help me set up and drive out for dinners, but otherwise he would stay home with Oscar and Maddie while I camped solo.

my home away from home

When we arrived on Sunday afternoon the clouds to the north looked ominous and we raced to get everything organized before the rains started.

downy woodpecker busy pecking above my tent

Fortunately, it never did rain and once everything was ready, TG was on his way.

a fan, coffee maker, microwave, and mini fridge: all the creature comforts!

After a quick dinner, I went for a short walk.

Prairie Loop Trail

I didn’t see much in the heat of the late afternoon but did spy a chatty, red-shouldered hawk,

red-shouldered hawk

Beautiful butterflies,

zebra swallowtail butterfly
little butterfly on a thistle

And iconic Kissimmee white-tailed deer and turkeys!

wild turkey in the equestrian campground

One of my favorite things to do while camping is a sunset drive through the park. The daytime crowds have gone home and I eagerly look forward to what I might spy as dusk turns to dark.

Over the years I’ve spied everything from alligators to bobcats to (gasp) a 6ft Eastern diamondback rattlesnake slithering across the road.

Eastern diamondback, July 2019

I headed towards the main entrance around sunset. As I drove along, groups of five or six dark-colored birds kept flushing just ahead of the car. In talking to a park ranger the next morning, we determined that they were common nighthawks. These birds migrate through KPPSP and are only here for a brief time. I was lucky to see them!

common nighthawk in flight

By the time I turned around it was almost dark. I counted three different barred owls and a little burrowing owl that fluttered to a fence post for just long enough to snap a quick photo.

burrowing owl in the disappearing light

Once back at camp, I set up for a star stack but the clouds rolled in so I called it a night.

too cloudy for a Star Stack this night!

I was awakened at 3 am by the “who cooks for you” call of a barred owl directly over my tent, and then again at 5:30 when a cacophony of owl calls filled the campground. I was wide awake and decided to take advantage of the cool morning for a hike on the Prairie Loop Trail.

white-tailed deer in the early morning fog

This trail is a 4.6-mile loop and takes you through open prairie and wooded hammocks.

wild flower on the trail

I enjoyed some time with a tom turkey,

tom turkey

Plenty of red-winged blackbirds and Eastern meadowlarks,

Eastern meadowlark singing his heart out

A common yellowthroat,

common yellowthroat


Eastern towhee

And rare spy:  a Bachman’s sparrow!

Bachman’s sparrow

As I headed towards the hammock, I snapped a photo of a vulture looking quite pretty for once,

a vulture looking quite pretty!

And a pair of swallow-tailed kites far off on a tree snag.

swallow-tailed kite on a far off tree snag

By the time I got back to camp, temperatures had soared and I was tired. I rested until TG arrived and then we drove over to check out the alligator pit. At least a couple dozen lay in and around the water, not doing much of anything.

the gator pit
TG called this one “Boss Hog”
this was as much action as we got

After dinner, TG headed for home and I went for another sunset drive. You can usually spy bobwhites scampering along the side of the park roads but they are skittery and difficult to photograph. I was able to capture one by staying far enough back and zooming in with the long reach of my little Nikon P900.

bobwhite on the road

I scanned the area for deer,

always be on the look-out for deer crossing the roads at sunset!

And spotted a wild hog grazing in the meadow, not at all interested in me.

wild hog

Up ahead I saw the unmistakable shape of a four-footed animal – a bobcat or small coyote – but it vanished into the darkness before I could be sure.

I spied burrowing owls, three more barred owls, and quite a few snakes.

green snake on the road

As I turned the corner to head back towards the campground, my headlights picked up a barred owl sitting in the middle of the road. She immediately flew to a nearby pole.

she immediately flew to a nearby pole

I put the car in Park, lowered my window, and just as I got ready to take a shot, she turned to look at me.  Hello, Gorgeous!  She was still sitting there as I thanked her and went on my way.

Thank you!

Once back at camp I set up for a star stack. This technique is a composite of 100+ images taken over an hour or more, and then stacked together in a free program called “Star Stax.”

It was wonderful to sit alone in the dark, listening to the night sounds around me. Suddenly out of nowhere, three little furry things came bounding towards me. They were baby raccoons and mama was not far behind! Upon seeing me, they ran across the road but I could still see their black outlines scurrying back and forth beside the scrub palmettos.

a star stack

I woke during the night to footsteps crunching in the leaves outside my screen window. I grabbed my flashlight and peered out:  a little opossum waddled into the woods behind my tent.

Unfortunately, the sky did not give me the Milky Way opportunity I was hoping for this visit. But it’s only May and I have the whole summer ahead of me.

Milky Way at KPPSP, June 2021

You’ll know where to find me:  alone again, nature-ally!

All The Way to Allouez

In February 2022 we left sunny, warm Florida for four weeks at the Sax-Zim Bog in Northern Minnesota.  We wanted to photograph the legendary great gray owls – which we did and then some!  You can read all about it in my blog “28 Days in the Bog.”

In the spirit of “since we’ve already come this far” we added another two weeks in Allouez, (AL-o-way), located in the Keweenaw (KEY-wee-naw) Peninsula, which projects nearly 70 miles into Lake Superior on the northern side of Michigan’s U.P. 

Keweenaw Peninsula

When conditions are right, the Aurora Borealis are visible across the open expanse of the Big Lake.

this was as close as we got to seeing the aurora borealis!

The Northern Lights were high on our bucket list, especially after canceling our trip to Finland at the beginning of the covid pandemic, and we hoped for the best during our two-week stay.

Our Air BNB in Allouez was a palace compared to our tiny basement apartment in Hibbing. 

our Allouez Air BNB

There was a spacious kitchen with a table big enough to spread out two laptops and a lovely view across the backyard.

view from our kitchen window

A separate living room with a comfy wrap-around sofa,

binging on Jason Bourne movies!

And a flight of stairs leading to two bedrooms and a half bath on the second floor.

Maddie and Oscar had a lot of fun scampering up and down the stairs!

Before we arrived, our host had told us to leave the water running in the downstairs bathroom. There was a “Let it Run” order in place due to a deep freeze. I guess when your water comes from the third largest freshwater lake in the world it’s ok to “let it run!”

“Let it Run”

We couldn’t have asked for a better place to spend the last two weeks of our road trip. You can find the Old Mining House on Air BNB here:

We scouted several locations for our late-night aurora forays,

Lake Superior from Calumet Waterworks
Five Mile Point Drive

And settled on the bayfront at Eagle River.  The view to the north was unobstructed, and we could wait and watch from the warmth of our car.

northern view from Eagle River bayfront (glow in the distance is Thunder Bay, Canada)

Unfortunately, conditions were not favorable for the duration of our stay. Although we had beautiful blue skies on many days,

Evenings turned overcast almost every night.

evenings turned overcast

But we were there for two weeks so we made the best of it.  The whole peninsula is an outdoor enthusiast, nature lover’s paradise.  Not only is it surrounded on three sides by Lake Superior with its lovely beaches,

Lake Superior’s lovely beaches!

It offers hundreds of miles of snowmobile and hiking trails,

Trailside Lodge offers snowmobiles for rent

State parks, scenic drives,

miles of scenic drives

And beautiful waterfalls.

middle Hungarian Falls (long exposure)

What we were NOT prepared for was All. The. Snow – especially this late into the season!

so much snow!
March 9, 2022

Keweenaw averages 208 inches of snow per year, and as of March 9, 2022, they were already at 284.5.

Keweenaw’s “Snow Thermometer” – TG is 6’4″

Lake Superior keeps the area warmer than Northern Minnesota but also dumps a lot more snow.  Although we had plenty of layers to keep us warm, the amount of snow made it challenging to do many of the outdoor activities.

even taking photos proved challenging at times!

Most of the area’s attractions were closed for the season, and others were accessible only by snowmobile (above our pay grade) or snowshoes, which we rented from Cross Country Sports in Calumet for $10 a day.

snowshoes were a must on the trails!

Our neighborhood consisted of a small cluster of houses off US 41, a busy main road, so there was not a lot of opportunity for walking close to home.

neighborhood blue jay
neighborhood squirrel

We did manage a hike to Hungarian Falls,

the trail to Hungarian Falls

Home to five waterfalls with the highest one having a 75-foot drop.

middle Hungarian Falls

This time of year, everything was frozen, but it was still a lovely hike in the woods.  We saw multiple tracks – including some fresh snowshoe hare. The only hare we saw, however, was an illustration in the children’s book “The Cross-Country Cat,” the pages of which were affixed to trees along the trail.

Henry, the cross-country cat, with snowshoe hare
the pages of this children’s storybook were affixed to trees along the trail

The Keweenaw Peninsula was the site of the first copper boom in the United States, which led to its moniker “Copper Country.” 

Welcome to Copper Country

And we spent a lot of time exploring the quaint little towns that dot the area.

Allouez is about four miles north of Calumet, which boasts a beautiful cathedral and lots of historic architecture.

St. Paul the Apostle Cathedral
Calumet Fire Station, est. 1898
Shute’s Saloon, est. 1890, never found it open during our visit

We also enjoyed lunch at Carmelita’s and sampled their famous Thimbleberry Margarita. Thimbleberries are similar to raspberries and are a favorite among local residents.

thimbleberry margarita

Lake Linden has some wonderful old churches,

Methodist Episcopal Church
current home of Houghton County Historical Society Museum

Interesting storefronts,

Lindell’s Chocolate Shop

And fun restaurants.

Dreamland Hotel and Bar

But it was in Laurium that we were introduced to pasties. 

Pronounced “past-ee”, it is a folded pastry case with a savory filling, typically seasoned meat, potatoes, and vegetables. The travel-ready meal came to Keweenaw by way of Cornish miners who migrated to the area to work in the copper mines in the 19th century.

vegetarian pasty

The pasty is a point of pride among the residents of the U.P.  and debates range far and wide on which is the best.

Toni’s Kitchen #1 Pasty 2018

Donna at the Visitor’s Center gave us a list of places where we could try this delicacy but added that none would compare with her mother-in-law’s!

There is even a “Keweenaw Pasty Trail” that lists the area’s best locations – each with its own, unique spin on this beloved little pie.

the Keweenaw pasty trail

One day we drove up to Copper Harbor, located at the very northern tip of the peninsula. 

Miami, Fla 1,990 miles!

Most of the shops and restaurants were closed for the season, so we stopped at the Mariner North for lunch.

Mariner North for lunch

As we waited for our food, the restaurant gradually filled.  It suddenly occurred to us that we were the only – and I do mean ONLY – patrons not dressed in snowmobile attire!

we were the only ones not in snowmobile attire!
check out the Mariner parking lot- no cars!!

The countryside is full of photographic gems, even in the winter. We found picturesque barns,

Lake Annie Road

Old dams, and historic copper mines – some of which are purported to be haunted!

Centennial Copper Mine

We had stopped to photograph the abandoned Quincy Dredge #2, currently sunk in the shallow water of Torch Lake. Just as we got out of the car, we spied a little red fox crossing the ice!

I was barely able to snap a photo before she disappeared behind the snowbank

In scouting locations for our aurora watching, we stumbled upon two interesting sites in Eagle River.  The first was the Church of the Holy Protection, a monastery under the jurisdiction of The Ukrainian Catholic Church.

Church of the Holy Protection monastery

This stunning piece of architecture sits on the shore of Lake Superior, about five miles outside of town. 

cloister: do not enter

The monks devote themselves to a life of prayer, music,

the monks devote themselves to a life of prayer and work

And work, including making jams, coffees, and other baked goods at their sole source of income: the Jampot bakery. 

the Jampot

Unfortunately, the Jampot is only open during season, late May through mid-October, but many of their products are available online.

Jampot – Home of Poorrock Abbey™

There is no phone listed on either the monastery or Jampot website, but they do have an email. So, we inquired about their Saturday evening Solemn Vespers service and received this reply:

email from Society of St John monastery

We are not regular church attendees, but in these troubling times we could not pass up an opportunity to pray for peace with Ukrainian monks.

Solemn Vespers notes

The Solemn Vespers were unlike anything we had ever experienced. The entire 90 minutes was sung – even the chosen scriptures of the day.

the monks’ voices filled the sanctuary like a heavenly choir

The monks sang acapella, in three-part harmony, and their strong voices filled the small sanctuary like a heavenly choir.

a short, one-minute slideshow of the Solemn Vespers service

TG and I were the only attendees and as we sat listening it occurred to me that this beautiful service would have happened with or without us. We were merely bystanders in one of the most genuine – and profound – acts of worship either of us had ever witnessed.

the Blessing of the Incense

On another day while driving through Eagle River we noticed a sign for the Emil Dyni Memorial Deer Feeding Park. Whaaat??

Emil Dyni Memorial Deer Feeding Park

In the winter deer travel from miles around to Eagle River where they are fed – by anyone who has brought the proper food.

deer are treasured and protected!

They flock here by the hundreds and through the years have learned that the yard is a safe place to eat and bed down.

you can find deer at all hours of the day and night

This park was on the same road that led to the Eagle River bayfront, so each evening when we went out aurora-hunting we passed the deer, peeking above the snowdrifts as we drove by.

Eagle River bayfront long-exposure

The two weeks did not give us exactly what we had hoped for, but we were able to explore an area of the country that neither of us had visited before. The more we travel in the U.S.A., the more wonderful places we find to go. The Keweenaw Peninsula is absolutely beautiful and a great place to visit – anytime of the year. Just be sure to pack your snowshoes!

Don’t forget to pack your snowshoes!

To view more photos from our stay, visit our flickr albums.


lake linden icicles
hover or click on photo to arrow through the set


Lake Superior
hover or click on photo to arrow through the set

28 Days in the Bog

In February 2022, we embarked on our most ambitious road trip to date:  a journey that would take us as far north as Hibbing, Minnesota for four weeks followed by a stay in Allouez (ALL-oo-way), in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. All in all, we would be away from home for seven weeks.

leaving 80-degree Florida!

Most of our Florida friends questioned our sanity traveling to northern Minnesota in the middle of winter but we wanted to photograph the legendary great gray owls.  They are one of the largest owls, with a perfectly round head and beautiful circular face.  Ever since I first saw a photograph of one, I’ve dreamed of capturing that image for myself.

great gray owl

One of the best places to spot GGOs is about an hour west of Duluth, Minnesota: in the Sax-Zim Bog. 

SZB is about an hour west of Duluth, MN

Encompassing more than 300 square miles, SZB is a mix of habitats that attracts not only great grays but a wide variety of owls, other birds, and animals.  

The only area we ran into any traffic on our three-day drive north was around Atlanta – a total mess – but otherwise, we drove 70mph the entire way.  The roads were clear and judging from the number of wrecked semis in Illinois, it looked like we had missed a bad winter storm by a couple of days.

a lot of wrecked semis in central Illinois!

We arrived in Hibbing late afternoon on Sunday, Feb 6, and spent our first full day stocking up on groceries and getting organized for our upcoming photo safaris. 

We had arranged for an Air BNB for the four weeks we would be spending in Hibbing.  The 500 sq ft basement apartment was tiny but efficient and proved to be a good base for the duration of our stay.

“first time in the snow, eh?”

A fun bit of trivia was that our little apartment was located just a few blocks from Robert Zimmerman’s childhood home.  We drove by the house every time we went to and from the Bog.

Bob Dylan’s childhood home

Sax-Zim Bog is so unique it’s hard to explain.  It’s a combination of private land, homes, fields, some government land, and some owned by the non-profit “Friends of SZB” all mixed up next to each other, so you don’t quite know who owns what. 

Friends of Sax-Zim Bog birding map

Some private homeowners have set up feeders and/or deer rib cages in their front yards and welcome photographers and birders. 

downy woodpecker at Mary Lou’s feeders
smoke-morph wild turkey at Mary Lou’s

Others have “NO PHOTOS” or “PRIVATE PROPERTY, NO TRESPASSING” signs posted. 

“No Pictures”

So, you just drive around on the public roads, looking for interesting things.  It’s a lot of being in the right place at the right time. 

Lake Nichols Road

The roads were icy and covered with snow on every drive we made.  There are deep ditches on either side, for where the plows put all the snow that accumulates (and never melts), and you don’t know for sure where the shoulders end and the ditches begin. 

And yes, we got stuck one time!

our sacrifice to the Bog gods

You must watch where you’re driving and where you’re stopping, also watch for the locals, who will drive by you at 50-60mph.   It would be very difficult to watch your driving AND animal-spot at the same time! So, if you’re planning a visit, bring along a buddy or hire a guide.

you need to always watch where you’re driving and stopping

I had done a ton of research in preparing for our trip – if you dig around enough you can find a lot of information about the Bog, such as what is being spied on any given day and at what time, where various locations are in relation to each other, and tips about owl-spotting and driving in general.

Besides the SZB website, there are Flickr albums, Facebook groups, and a Telegram app that all share useful information.  The Telegram was especially helpful beforehand in learning the roads, distances between various places, and whether “chasing” a sighting would be possible. 

Telegram app screen shot

But practically speaking, the app was not much help once we were there:  the Bog is too big of an area to get anywhere fast. We barely used it during our four-week visit.

You stay in your car most of the time — we did get out occasionally but not for long, it’s just too cold to be standing or walking in the snow. 

you do get out of the car occasionally (note owl on the power line)

We set out for our first visit on Tuesday morning, Feb 8.  It is said that in order to see great gray owls at Sax-Zim Bog, you should allow 3 or 4 days for each sighting … we saw two separate owls on our first visit. 

our first GGO of the trip!

By the end of that first week, we had spied multiple GGOs, a snowy owl, a barred owl, a porcupine, plus many of the regular winter birds.

snowy owl
common redpoll
black-capped chickadee

Before we went to bed on Friday night we checked the forecast, so we knew the weekend was going to be brutally cold. We woke to below zero temps and a dead battery, so we relaxed in the morning,

working on photos over breakfast

Took a nice walk in the snow,

a walk in the snow

Lunched at a local pub,

walleye sandwich and fish tacos at Mike’s Pub

And finally got the car started around 2pm.

this is crazy!

The following morning it was so cold we turned the car around and decided to wait until it warmed up a bit to go out – at its coldest, the car thermometer read -38°.

that’s not a typo — it got down to -38!!

By mid-afternoon, it had warmed up to a balmy 8°. Crazy to have a 46-degree temperature swing and still not hit double digits! We drove to Cloquet, home to the only gas station ever designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. Opened in 1958 as the R.W. Lindholm Service Station, it is still in operation today and is run by a grandson of the original owner.

Frank Lloyd Wright gas station in Cloquet, MN

On Monday, Valentine’s Day, we drove to our porcupine area and were delighted to see him again, this time actively circling the tree, gnawing at the bark like he was in a bark eating contest. Not knowing much about porcupines, we wondered if he stays in one area until he’s eaten all the bark and then will move on.


After our fun time with the porcupine, we stopped to chat for a moment with some nice people. One gentleman told us about a barred owl not too far away.

barred owl

It turned out the nice gentleman was a guide by the name of Judd Brink.  I had communicated with him briefly while planning our trip but had decided against hiring a guide.  We felt that given the amount of time we would be spending in the Bog it wouldn’t be necessary.  But Judd is as knowledgeable as he is kind and generous.  I would recommend him to anyone looking for a guide.

Bird Guiding Minnesota – Bird Guiding Tours in Minnesota (

Tuesday ended up being another once-in-a-lifetime day. I had in my head I wanted to find a pine marten and, of course, see owls.

We found a pine marten.

pine marten

And three great gray owls.

one of three GGOs we saw on this day

Near the Bog, there is a delightful little restaurant called Wilbert’s Cafe.  It’s a great place to warm up with breakfast or a cup of hot chocolate. 

breakfast at Wilbert’s Cafe

Another fun stop is the Victory Coffee House in Meadowlands.  It is a community center, and you pay only as much as you feel is fair.

Victory Coffee House in Meadowlands

The following Monday, the 21st, winter storm Nancy was headed our way.

winter storm Nancy (we were a smidge west of where that snowflake is on the tip of Lake Superior)

TG’s phone died that morning, and we made a quick trip to Grand Rapids to get him set up on an old backup I use as an alarm clock. 

our drive to Grand Rapids
on the way to Grand Rapids

But the weather was too dicey to even think about driving out to the Bog.

message on the Friends of SZB Facebook page
not going to do much birding today!

Finally, on Wednesday it cleared up enough to venture out.  St. Louis County takes their plows seriously and although it was still very cold, the roads were driveable.

serious snow plows!
even the Bog roads are plowed quickly (Zim Road)

We wanted to photograph the Iron Man miner’s memorial,

Iron Man miner’s memorial

And the mural of Archie “Moonlight” Graham from Field of Dreams, both located in Chisholm. 

“Moonlight” Graham mural in Chisholm

Afterward, we drove out to the Bog and had another surprise.  The conversation in the car went something like this:  Me “what’s that running up ahead, a cat?”  TG “maybe a dog?”   Both of us in unison “OMG it’s a bobcat!”  

a bobcat!

The following day my phone died.  Both of our phones died within a week of each other!  Not willing to risk another month with only a single old backup, we drove to Grand Rapids for a second time to take advantage of T-Mobile’s free trade-in program.

the T-Mobile staff was very interested in our (dead) Kodak Ektra phones!

It took most of the day, but even so, we were blessed with our best GGO sighting to date.

my dream shot: a GGO in the trees

Besides more owls, by the end of the second week we had spied several new-to-us birds including Canada jays,

Canada jay

A ruffed grouse,

ruffed grouse

And a boreal chickadee.

boreal chickadee

That weekend we took a mini road trip north up the Lake Superior coast to Grand Marais for a sunrise drive on the Gunflint Trail. I desperately wanted to see a moose.

a drive north up to Grand Marais
Lake Superior

We spied a bald eagle pair,

bald eagle

A coyote, and another great gray owl along our way, but no moose.

Gunflint Trail – 57 miles each way and no moose

We also stopped at the Split Rock lighthouse for a quick photo op before returning home to Hibbing.

Split Rock lighthouse

Tuesday, March 1 ended up being a most extraordinary day.  As if playing peek-a-boo with an adorable red fox wasn’t enough to send me over the moon,

adorable red fox

We were treated to a great gray owl actively hunting directly in front of us in perfect golden, afternoon light.

GGO actively hunting

She would swoop across the snow, then fly off, then land close, again and again. 

At one point she flew directly at me, landed on a signpost no more than 15 feet from where I stood, and looked me square in the eyes.  Later someone said it might have been because of the faux fur trim on my jacket’s hood.  In any case, to be that close to such a majestic creature took my breath away.

she landed on a signpost 15ft from me

We left after 45 minutes, and she was still entertaining the small group of humans who had gathered with us on the side of the road. 

THAT is why we drove 1,900 miles in the middle of winter to the north woods of Minnesota: to have the chance to experience something like that.  Truly a “Once in a Lifetime”

great gray owl-5299
hover on photo to arrow through the set

There are several different Facebook groups dedicated to SZB, and TG and I had each joined two.  Over the four weeks, we had posted “highlight” photos, which might explain what happened the next morning.  We were photographing an old barn, and a truck stopped to ask what we were watching.  

photographing a beautiful old barn

Seeing our license plate the woman asked, “Are you the Florida People….the famous Tomlins who have been up here for a month???”

we’ll laugh about this for a long time!

We were leaving for Allouez on Sunday and another winter storm threatened.  We decided Friday would be our last run out to the Bog.  But first, we gave Pepper a much-needed bath and then stuck to the clearest road, Hwy 7. 

Pepper gets a much-needed bath

Even so, we were treated to two more GGOs and the most unexpected sighting of the whole trip: a northern hawk owl!

northern hawk owl

Our four weeks exceeded all expectations.  We saw everything we had hoped for along with quite a few surprises.  By giving ourselves so much time, we had built in enough down days due to weather or dead cellphones,

down days to due weather

And time to enjoy some of the other sights in the area.

Grand Marais lighthouse

Final count:  25 GGOs, 8 barred owls, 4 snowy owls, one northern hawk owl, 8 bald eagles, two pine martens, multiple porcupine sightings, one bobcat, one red fox, and all the regular winter birds at the Bog. 

common redpoll and pine grosbeak

We also had multiple opportunities to photograph the picturesque freight trains that rumbled along Highway 7 each day,

freight train on Hwy 7

As well as beautiful old barns and farm scenes,

lots of beautiful old barns and farm scenes around the Bog

Stunning landscapes,

Arkola Road

And breath-taking sunrises and sunsets.

Minnesota sunrise
sunset on Hwy 37 heading into Hibbing

Were we just a little bit crazy to leave sunny, warm Florida and drive 1,900 miles north in the middle of winter?  Maybe.  

call us crazy

But then again, “to do anything in this world worth doing, we must not stand back, thinking of the cold and danger, but jump in and scramble through as best we can.” (Sydney Smith)

“we must not stand back, thinking of the cold and danger”

To view all our photos from this extraordinary trip visit our Flickr albums:


great grey owl-1162
hover on photo to arrow through the set


pine marten
hover on photo to arrow through the set

A Very Glamping Christmas

Two weeks before Christmas I found myself sitting in the Okeechobee County Courthouse, serving as a juror on a criminal trial. It was a complicated case, with no clear right and wrong, and the only thing that kept me sane was knowing that we had reserved ten nights camping at Kissimmee Prairie Preserve State Park.

Okeechobee County Judicial Center

Dec 23 couldn’t come soon enough. Since we were planning to be there for so long, we set up two tents – one for sleeping and the other as our “commissary.”

our sleeping tent (green) and “commissary” (orange)

We fell asleep that night to the hoot of owls while coyotes howled in the distance.

Christmas Eve morning I went for a bike ride and TG worked on photos.

TG running photos through Topaz

I was happy to spy a beautiful, black-crowned night heron

black-crowned night heron

And a female northern harrier enjoying the early morning sun.

female northern harrier

Later I hiked the Prairie Loop Trail and managed to capture a belted kingfisher, notorious for flying off the moment you even think “camera.”

belted kingfisher

I was almost to the campgrounds when I came upon an 8-point buck, far more interested in grazing than in me.

8-point white-tailed buck

One of our favorite things to do while camping is late afternoon drives around the park. The day visitors are mostly gone and the animals are beautiful in the golden light.

TG capturing a caracara at golden hour

This crested caracara loves this spot and more often than not you can find him sitting here in the late afternoon.

crested caracara on his favorite perch

That evening I drove the park road again. An owl swooped in front of me, and I spied a second one in the trees, too far away to even think about getting a shot.

Christmas morning, we woke up early to enjoy the peace and quiet before heading back home to Okeechobee.

Merry Christmas 2021!

We were invited to spend Christmas evening with our neighbors and we chose to sleep at home rather than drive back out to camp that night.

Christmas dinner with our neighbors

We had already noted that the campground was more crowded this year than in the past, and the vibe was different. Oscar and Maddie were stressed, which was stressing us out. We didn’t dare leave them alone in the tent, even inside their kennel, as the park was full, including several loose dogs.

the crowds at the campground were stressing Oscar and Maddie

That night we drove to our favorite spot for a star stack. We set up our camp chairs by the car while O and M slept inside and our cameras clicked away. We could hear, but did not spy, barred owls hooting in the trees above us.

TG’s star stack

On Monday morning we decided that TG should take O & M home while I stayed at the camp. Since we live only 45 minutes away, he would make the drive 2 times a day to spend time with me, enjoy the morning and dinner together, and build a nightly campfire.

TG built a nightly campfire

As a bonus, my friend Tim and his 7-year-old son were staying two sites away beginning that night. I’ve known Tim for over a decade and we were looking forward to spending time with them.

Tim, Carlyle, and Hedwig the owl

Later that evening Tim sent me a text “You have a macro lens?”

a black widow in the bathhouse!

They had spied a black widow spider in the bathhouse!

beautiful black widow spider

TG came back early the next morning and the four of us went for a hike.

“Make a funny face” I said

We didn’t see a lot, but we did spy a beautiful buck bounding through the prairie

white-tailed buck bounding through the prairie

And a big banana spider.

banana spider

When we got back to camp a large tom turkey was pecking on the hubcap of our car – he could see his reflection in the chrome and was not backing down!

tom turkey pecking at his reflection in the chrome!

After TG left that evening, I intended to go for a hike but only got as far as the Prairie Loop trailhead when I heard the snuffle-grunting of a wild pig. By the light of my flashlight, I spied a mama with three babies. She snorted at me and I decided it was best if I turned around.

Wednesday morning, we said goodbye to Tim and Carlyle and took a drive with the pups. After TG left that evening, I went looking for owls.

Bye guys!

Much to my delight, I found one,

male barred owl

Then his mate.

barred owl pair

And they even “bonded” a few times!


Thursday morning TG met me early. We had been contacted by a local rancher to take photos for their new website and we wanted to walk the property together.

this is going to be fun!

That night I shot another star stack at the corner.

my star stack

Friday morning, I hiked the Prairie Loop Trail again. There was a nest in a tree I wanted a better look at but the fog was so thick I couldn’t see much of anything!

I still managed to spy a grumpy yellow-rumped warbler,

yellow-rumped warbler

An eastern meadowlark,

eastern meadowlark

Several more deer and some wild turkeys.

white-tailed doe
wild turkey jennies

Later I went for another bike ride and noticed a huge wolf spider sitting in the middle of the road. When I stopped to move him out of harm’s way, he got mad and charged me! I jumped back and he climbed into the spokes of my bicycle tire. I walked a short distance away and he climbed down and moved off the road. I was only trying to keep you safe, not-so-little guy!

this wolf spider got so mad at me!

TG returned that afternoon with the pups. We wanted to spend New Year’s Eve together as a family and figured Kissimmee would be far quieter than our neighborhood at home in Okeechobee. We took a short sunset drive around the park

December 31, 2021 sunset

And then enjoyed a quiet dinner while a little owl kept watch from a branch above our heads.

a little owl kept watch over our New Year’s Eve dinner

Later we sat by the fire, burning the last of our “lighter wood” – logs from a tree hit by lightning. The crowds had left the park and there were several empty sites. The only sounds we heard were the crackling of the fire and the occasional hoot of an owl. It was the best New Year’s Eve we’ve had in a long time!

our last campfire of the year

Although we had made our reservations through Sunday the 3rd, we decided to pack up Saturday after the tents had dried. Mornings had been so damp and foggy we did not want to pack up wet gear. We took our time breaking down and pulled into our driveway at Casa Mini around 2:30 that afternoon.

TG and Oscar

We’ve decided that tent camping with the pups must be in measured doses, and only when the campground is relatively empty. But me staying solo, with TG driving out for a few hours each day, proved to be a very workable solution. When all was said and done I was by myself for four of our ten nights, and I can’t wait to do it again!

Happy New Year and all the best in 2022!


In October 2021, we embarked on our most ambitious road trip to date: a 7,700-mile journey to New Mexico where we planned to catch the winter bird migration in the Bosque del Apache as well as visit other interesting spots out west. All-in-all we would be gone for 28 days.

packed and ready to go!

During our month-long trip, we would travel through nine states across three time zones, over multiple mountains and rivers, and cross the Continental Divide four times.

nine states, three time zones, 7,700 miles!

We loaded up the pups and pulled out of our driveway at 6am, driving through Florida’s panhandle,

So long, Florida!

Then Alabama, and spending our first night in Jackson, Mississippi.

the tunnel through Mobile, Alabama

The next morning, we crossed the Mississippi River into Louisiana before entering Texas.

crossing the Mighty Mississippi

We had programmed Siri to avoid tolls and thus far she kept us on interstates with not a whole lot to see.

However, once we arrived in Texas, she took us on country roads which proved much more interesting.

Texas roadblock
“Oil that is, Black Gold … Texas Tea”
“Don’t Mess With Texas”

With no traffic and a 75-mph speed limit, we did not lose any time as we continued on our way.

75 mph even on two-lane country roads

We stopped the second night in Amarillo, Texas.

the Big Texan Steak Ranch, Amarillo

We had planned to push hard the first two days and we did:  putting in back-to-back 13-hour drives. By the time we reached Hyatt Place Amarillo, we were ready to slow down a bit.

everyone was ready to slow down a bit!

We had six more hours to get to our Air BNB in Lemitar, New Mexico and wanted to mosey with multiple stops along the way.

First up: Glenrio. This town was abandoned once the interstate replaced Route 66, but its ghosts remain.

abandoned motel, Glenrio TX

Glenrio straddles TX/NM and the gas station sits just east of the border, proudly claiming to be “the last stop for gas in Texas.”

“the last stop for gas in Texas”
TG captures the old gas station in Glenrio

Once we crossed into New Mexico …

family selfie, New Mexico Visitors Center

We headed for Tucumcari, another town on the old Route 66. This town has worked hard to preserve the nostalgia of that by-gone era, and we had fun capturing images of the vintage buildings.

Texaco Gas Station, Tucumcari
Palomino Motel, Tucumcari
Tucumcari selfe

You can see more of our photos from Glenrio and Tucumcari here (click on photo then use the arrow to go through the images):

tucumcari pano 2-SharpenAI-softness-DeNoiseAI-standard

We had a four-hour drive ahead of us and we wanted to arrive in enough time to get unpacked and make a grocery run. So after Tucumcari, we headed southwest.

heading southwest through New Mexico

We took the time to marvel at the huge wind farms,

TG and Oscar alongside a wind farm
wind farm pano

And the mile-long freight trains, loaded with stacks of containers.

this freight train was two miles long!
freight train pano

The topography of New Mexico is beautiful. Living in flat Florida, we had forgotten how much we love the mountains.

driving through the mountains of New Mexico

The cottonwood trees were in full bloom, a brilliant gold against the blue sky and reddish-brown mountains.

the cottonwood trees in full bloom

Casita Del Cranes makes for a comfortable and affordable home-away-from-home with plenty of privacy. It has a big living/dining/kitchen area, one bedroom with a queen bed, and a small bath with hot shower. We had room to spread out as well as set up Oscar and Maddie’s kennel.

Casita Del Cranes

It sits on a quiet road – other than the occasional passing car the only sounds are the freight trains that rumble past, something we found charming.

freight train across the road from Casita Del Cranes

It is located about a 15-minute drive from the town of Socorro, with a large, well-stocked Walmart. And only 45 minutes from the Bosque del Apache where we would be spending most of our time.

Home – Bosque del Apache – U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (

We spent our first 2 ½ days checking out the Bosque at both sunrise

TG at sunrise
the Bosque at sunrise

And sunset.

sandhill cranes at sunset

The birds had not yet arrived in the 1000’s we expected but we planned to be in this area until mid-November when the migration would be in full swing.

We did manage to spy a coyote sneaking across a field at sunrise, a small bobcat, several mule deer, and a group of javelinas crossing the road ahead of us!

javelinas crossing the road

We took a break from the Bosque on Tuesday and drove out to the Very Large Array. The drive through the mountains was breathtaking.

the drive through the mountains was breathtaking!

The VLA is a group of huge radio antennas that complement giant, single-dish telescopes for the National Radio Astronomy Observatory. In a nutshell, it creates a telescope many miles across. It is difficult to grasp its massive scale, but we were able to see the large, white dishes from more than 20 miles away.

we could see the round, white dishes from miles away

These huge antennas are on tracks and are repositioned throughout the year – sometimes bunched close together and other times spread far apart.

the VLA

You can check the VLA website for exactly where they will be at any given time and plan your visit accordingly.

VLA Configurations – National Radio Astronomy Observatory (

You can see more of our photos from the VLA here (click on photo then use the arrow to go through the images):

VLA stack-

We continued west over the mountains and, in the process, crossed the Continental Divide.

Continental Divide selfie

The following day we drove south to White Sands National Park. This was a 2 ½ hour drive and we wanted to arrive for the early morning light. On our way, we crossed the Rio Grande.

the Rio Grande

After traveling through the entire state of New Mexico, this grand river becomes the US/Mexico border once it reaches Texas.

By the time we arrived at White Sands National Park it had turned into another sunny, cloudless day and the stunning white sand looked like huge snowdrifts. Driving through the dunes in the early morning quiet, without a single car in sight, was otherworldly.

the road into White Sands National Park
TG on the dunes

The sand looked hot to touch (like our Florida beaches), so before we let the pups out of the car I ran a handful through my fingers. It was soft as powered sugar and almost cold! Air temps that day were in the mid-50’s.

family selfie at White Sands

We decided to stick around for sunset, so we took a mid-day break to check out McGinn’s Pistachio Land,

McGinn’s Pistachio Land

Bowlin’s Running Indian Trading Post for refrigerator magnets,

as tacky as it looks!

And the famous recycled roadrunner sculpture overlooking the town of Las Cruces.

the famous recycled roadrunner sculpture overlooking the town of Las Cruces

We arrived back at White Sands around 4 pm and enjoyed a picnic dinner while we waited for the sun to set.

family selfie in a White Sands picnic pavilion

Without a cloud in the sky, the sunset was not as dramatic as it might have been, but we were nonetheless awed by the ethereal beauty of the park.

sunset at White Sands

By the time we pulled into our driveway at Casita Del Cranes, it was after 9pm – 15 hours in the car with Oscar and Maddie! All of us slept well that night!

TG making a “sand angel”

You can see more of our photos from White Sands here (click on photo then use the arrow to go through the images):

white sands-07438

And so ended our first week in New Mexico.

Week Two started with another day of brilliant blue sky and plenty of bright sunshine. We chose to stay home – working on photos and getting ready for our upcoming “embedded road trip.”

In addition to our time in Lemitar, we had made reservations to stay in Farmington for three nights, Monument Valley for one night, and the Grand Canyon for another two.

our “embedded road trip

We drove north and west from Albuquerque through the Valles Caldera Mountains, and at over 7,000 feet we could feel our ears popping!

the Valles Caldera Mountains

Before checking into our Air BNB in Farmington we first drove to our destination for later that evening:  Shiprock.

checking out Shiprock for later that evening

Like the VLA, it is impossible to show the massive scale of this natural rock formation. It sits in the middle of Navajo Nation land, and you can see it from 30+ miles away. It felt like we drove forever before arriving at our rendezvous spot!

we could see it long before we reached our rendezvous spot!

Shiprock (Navajo: Tsé Bitʼaʼí or “rock with wings”) rises 1,600 feet above the plain and is considered a sacred site. As such, you are not permitted to drive close to the monolith without a Navajo guide. We booked our tours with Navajo Tours USA.

four-image pano

We settled into Fairview Hide-Away in Farmington, our home for the next three nights.

Fairview Hide-Away, Farmington

And were back at Shiprock by 6pm.

Our guide, Kialo, arrived shortly after, and together we caravanned to the end of the road. Kialo assured us that our VW Jetta could make it “no problem” but it quickly turned into the bumpiest, most nerve-wracking non-road TG had ever driven!

following behind Kialo for the sunset … what road?

We parked at the base of the monolith and then proceeded to scramble up the side of a sheer cliff to get to our first photo spot. Kialo bounded up like he had been doing this his whole life (he has) while I inched along behind him, not daring to look down and clinging to the rock wall for dear life. A tumble would, at the very least, result in severe injury, and we took our time going up.

selfie from earlier that day showing how far we drove and then climbed!

But we were rewarded with an incredible bird’s eye view of the monolith, the last of the sunset turning it bright orange.

we were rewarded with an incredible bird’s eye view of the monolith

What goes up must come down, so we inched our way back in the inky blackness and on to our next spot for Milky Way shots. TG set up for a stack,

TG’s star stack

While I walked back and forth shooting the Milky Way from various angles.

the Milky Way over Shiprock

The moonless sky was clear, and the stars were out in such numbers it was difficult to spot individual constellations. The Milky Way was a brilliant, vertical arch that stretched far over our heads into the sky above us.

there were so many stars we could barely make out the constellations!

It was truly a night to remember.

Thank you, Kialo, for a night to remember!

You can see more photos from Shiprock here (click on photo then use the arrow to go through the images):

shiprock milky way-1

On Saturday we had arranged for two day-hikes into the Bisti (rhymes with “Misty”). The Bisti/De-Na-Zin Wilderness is a rolling landscape of badlands that offers some of the most unusual scenery found in the area.

the hoodoos of the Bisti

Time and nature have etched a fantasy world of strange rock formations made of interbedded sandstone, shale, mudstone, coal, and silt.

the “Wings”

These hoodoos are in the shapes of pinnacles, spires, capped mushrooms, and other unusual forms.

We met our guide, Gilbert, at the north section rendezvous spot at 7am.

Gilbert, TG, and me

We learned a lot about the Bisti and Navajo culture as he pointed out the various formations.

“The Queen”
“Vanilla Hoodoos”
the “Owl”

 We also played “What do you see?”

I named this formation “Thirsty Dog.”

“Thirsty Dog”

TG said, “I see a camel!

TG spies a camel

We ended our first hike around 11am and had just enough time to drive home for a quick lunch and spell Oscar and Maddie. The total distance that morning was around four miles.

We were back at the south section parking lot by 3pm and hiked to several well-known spots including the Petrified Logs,

Petrified Log

And the famous Egg Hatchery.

TG at the “Egg Hatchery”

We finished our afternoon hike at just over 5 miles and were so tired we could barely make it home. But it was another memorable day.

Gilbert enjoying the afternoon sun

You can see more photos from the Bisti here (click on photo then use the arrow to go through the images):


The next morning, we caught up on photos and took advantage of Fairview Hide-Away’s washer & dryer – an amenity we appreciated being one month on the road!

Fairview Hide-Away

Later that afternoon we drove back out to Shiprock for one more shot at the night sky and a star stack. Because we were on our own, we stayed in the parking lot. But even so, it made for a special night as the headlights from passing cars illuminated the dike while we took our shots.

star stack from Shiprock parking lot (dike lit by passing cars)

On Monday, we said goodbye to Farmington and headed west.

It is difficult to take in the vastness of the southwestern United States. It goes on forever and coming up over a rise you can see for 50 or more miles. It is beautiful and it is spellbinding.

it feels like you can see forever

A quick detour took us to Four Corners.

the Four Corners monument

And of course we had to take a selfie standing in the four states: New Mexico, Arizona, Utah, and Colorado!

selfie at Four Corners

We ended the day at Monument Valley. We checked into our room at the Kayenta Valley Inn,

relaxing in our room

And then drove the twenty-five miles to the monument entrance. Here is TG’s description of our experience: 

We visited Monument Valley near Kayenta, AZ yesterday. I must say that despite the monuments themselves being extraordinary in size and beauty, it was a letdown. It was the most controlled, yet uncontrolled, experience I have ever encountered.

the famous Mittens at Monument Valley

For $20, you are issued a permit allowing a timed, 2-hour drive on a marked road that really should not allow any vehicles with moderate to low clearance…

checkpoint before entering Monument Valley
you are issued a time-stamped permit that you must sign and return when exiting the Valley

There were many spots that we had to cover at less than 5 MPH and a couple of very steep hills with loose gravel on the way out that we almost could not climb.

we were not sure our Jetta could make it up this incline!

Additionally, there is no policing of the drivers once in the park, although there are plenty of rules. Many drivers went well above the 15 MPH limit, kicking up dust, not looking where they were going, driving the wrong way, and stopping in the middle of the road. What we had looked forward to quickly turned into a “let’s get out of here ASAP” moment.

15 mph speed limit through the Valley

You can see more photos from Monument Valley here (click on photo then use the arrow to go through the images):

monument valley-09573

Our original plan was to go back the following morning for a sunrise drive but based on the previous afternoon experience we nixed that idea and continued west.

Alongside Route 160 there is an interesting rock formation called “Elephant’s Feet” where we stopped to take a few photos and stretch our legs.

“Elephant’s Feet” pano
a quick stop at “Elephant’s Feet” to stretch our legs and take some photos

We arrived in Cameron around noon – far too early for our 4pm check-in. So, we headed straight to the Grand Canyon National Park, located about a 30-minute drive west of town.

Welcome to the Grand Canyon!

The Grand Canyon was on both of our “Bucket Lists” and our first views did not disappoint.

“First View” of the Canyon

It truly is one of the Seven Wonders of the World and I found myself in tears, overwhelmed by its awesome beauty.

pano from Desert View
family selfie

Since we had all the following day, this afternoon was a scouting mission to get the lay of the land.

Back in town, we checked into the historic Cameron Trading Post, our home for the next two nights.

Historic Cameron Trading Post

This charming hotel has gorgeous views, private entries, and well-laid-out rooms. It also has the prettiest, softest baby-blue towels!

blue towels!

We had plenty of space to spread out our laptops and camera gear.

Cameron Trading Post

The restaurant serves both American and traditional Navajo food, with convenient curbside pick-up.

our “Navajo Tacos” ended up being two meals!

We realized that we were woefully unprepared for photographing the vast expanse of the Grand Canyon with its layers of light, shadow, and colors. TG spent some time researching “how-to” techniques for the next morning’s sunrise.

we realized we were not at all prepared for photographing the Grand Canyon!

We were back at Lipan Point well before dawn and watched the sun slowly bring the layers of color alive as it rose above the horizon. Once again, a lump formed in my throat as I took in the beauty of it all.

Grand Canyon at sunrise
sunrise at the Grand Canyon pano
sunrise selfie

November is a great month to visit the Grand Canyon. It is less crowded – for our sunrise session, we were one of a small handful of people. And although the morning started out quite cool, it warmed up quickly during the day. We were fortunate to have blue skies and bright sunshine for both days.

The roads are free of cars,

the park is relatively empty in November

And we were able to stop and snap photos of the elk that grazed in the woods on either side.

lots of elk grazing on both sides of the road

We even took turns hiking a bit of the Grandview Trail.

Grandview Trailhead

With O & M waiting patiently in the car neither of us wanted to be gone for too long, so a trek to the bottom was not an option for this trip.

Maddie waiting patiently in the car

That afternoon we went back to Lipan Point for the sunset.

taking photos at Lipan Point

Many people had the same idea and the best vantage points were crowded with photographers, picnickers, and folks simply taking in the view.

people enjoying the sunset at Lipan Point

We took a few photos,

Lipan Point

And then moved on to Moran Point, a quieter location to wait for nightfall.

Moran Point

You can see more photos from the Grand Canyon here (click on photo then use the arrow to go through the images):

canyon pano 5-4

Thursday morning it was time to pack up the car and head back to Casita Del Cranes for the remainder of our trip. We plotted a route south and east, through Winslow, Arizona.

Winslow, Arizona

And yes, Eagles Fans, we did stand on the corner.

TG ♪♪standin’ on the corner in Winslow, Arizona♪♪
yeah, I did it too!

Driving for hours requires regular pit stops – for both us and the dogs. I do not normally write about these, but the truck stop in Twin Arrows deserves special mention.

Set in the middle of the Arizona desert, the doggie area was a large section of Astroturf, akin to a putting green. Oscar and Maddie found this unacceptable and used the surrounding bushes instead.

Oscar and Maddie are too well-trained to use the Astroturf – they thought it was carpet!

And before you were allowed to enter the building, your temperature was taken. The Navajo Nation was hit hard with Covid, and they are doing everything they can to keep it at bay.

our temperature was taken before we were allowed to enter the building

They also sold Navajo Blue piñon coffee, which might be some of the best coffee around!

Route 60 goes straight east through a fun little spot called Pie Town, where we stopped for (you guessed it) pie.

Pie Town

The homemade options this day were traditional apple and pecan pie muffins.

traditional apple pie

Pecan pie muffins!?! They tasted even more delicious than they sound, and my hips are grateful there isn’t a Pie Town back home!

pecan pie muffins – “we’ll take-two-make-that-four, please.”

We arrived at Casita Del Cranes late that afternoon, happy to be back at our home-away-from-home. While TG fixed dinner, I took a walk down the dirt road in front of the house to look for roadrunners.

I was happy with this sighting of a Gambel’s quail, a new-to-me bird!

Gambel’s quail

Week Three began with a visit to the Socorro Nature Area, a beautiful little preserve about three miles from Casita.

northern flicker

Most of the birds were TTB’s (tiny twitchy birds) that required much patience to photograph.

say’s phoebe

TG was able to capture some beautiful landscapes,

Socorro Nature Area
Socorro Nature Area pano

On our drive home, we spied a red-tailed hawk

red-tailed hawk

and (much to my delight) beep-beep! a roadrunner!


The VLA is a designated ClearDarkSky site, and the forecast that evening was for clear and dark skies with excellent “seeing.”  When away from lights, the night skies in New Mexico are unlike anything we have seen. The Milky Way is incredibly bright and visible, much more so than in Florida. We wanted to try for a star stack with one of the VLA’s massive white dishes in the foreground.

the VLA at night

We arrived at the VLA around 7:30pm and the stars were already out in full. We parked in the darkness close to one of the giant antennas and set up for a star stack. It takes about an hour to shoot the 100-200 images needed for a stack. As we waited, we looked for various constellations and watched as stars and satellites shot across the sky while the screeching cries of hunting owls filled the air around us.

the sky was so dark and clear we could see the northern end of the Milky Way

By now the birds had arrived in the Bosque del Apache in the thousands we were hoping for, so we spent the last six days of our trip close to home.

snow geese by the thousands!

We alternated between hikes:

Seven miles of the Chupadera Trail where we climbed up to 1800 ft.

Chupadera Trail

The full trail is 9 1/2 miles, but we turned around at a dry riverbed crossing. The drop down was at least five feet, and we knew the scramble back up would be a challenge!

hiking the trail

We spied a few desert cottontails

desert cottontail on the Chupadera Trail

And a group of Gambel’s quail.

female Gambel’s quail and white-crowned sparrow

The Marsh Overlook Trail, which has a short but beautiful climb up to a panoramic view of the Bosque,

a short hike to the top for a panoramic view of the Bosque
pano from the top of Marsh Overlook Trail
female northern harrier

And the Rio Viejo Trail.

the Rio Viejo Trail

Just as we started down the trail, a couple with a friendly golden retriever was headed to their car. They told us there was a family of javelinas near the back of the loop and TG whispered “not anymore.” 

TG on the Rio Viejo Trail

It was still a beautiful walk through the woods and we did manage to spy a group of mule deer.

mule deer

We drove the “Loop Tour” roads around the refuge multiple times, where we enjoyed encounters with various wildlife such as javelinas,


More mule deer,

mule deer

A fleeting glimpse of a coyote, a bobcat,


And many beautiful birds.

raven on a dead tree limb

You can see more photos from our Loop Tour drives and hikes here (click on photo then use the arrow to go through the images):


And we spent each sunrise at the “Flight Deck.”

sunrise from the Flight Deck

The Flight Deck is a wooden boardwalk that stretches out over the marsh and in the mornings is THE place to watch the birds flying in, out, and overhead.

sunrise at the Flight Deck

We arrived each morning before dawn to secure a prime spot. Two dozen or more photogs, each armed with a big-lens camera, vie for the same choice positions at the north and south ends of the deck.

staking out a prime spot!

The noise from the birds is quite loud as small groups go through sporadic launches and then settle back down into the flock.

the birds go through sporadic launches and then settle back down into the flock

But suddenly, as if on cue, the noise swells to an almost deafening crescendo as they take off and fill the sky.

suddenly they all take off
… and fill the sky!

It is unlike anything we have ever witnessed.

snow geese fill the sky

It is spectacular.


You can see more photos from sunrise at the Flight Deck here (click on photo then use the arrow to go through the images):

sunrse flock-9928

Every day on our way to and from the Bosque we passed the Owl Bar and Cafe. This landmark restaurant has been in business for 76 years and boasts “the world’s best burgers and steaks.” I absolutely love owls, so of course we had to stop in. Being vegetarians we opted for the breakfast burritos — which were also delicious!

owls, owls everywhere! (I fit right in)

One afternoon our host, Steve, drove us out to San Lorenzo Canyon, located about six miles from the Casita. This picturesque canyon is in the middle of the desert and is only accessible in high-clearance or 4-wheel drive vehicles.

quite a bumpy ride to get there!

Even in Steve’s big truck, it was a bumpy ride! But worth it to climb among the narrow cliffs, arches, hoodoos … 


And angular rock formations.

path through the canyon

You can see more photos from San Lorenzo Canyon here (click on photo then use the arrow to go through the images):


On our last afternoon, Pam joined us for one final Loop Tour drive. On our way out we spied a beautiful female northern harrier, posing perfectly in the golden light. Since this is one of TG’s favorite birds, it seemed only right that she be the one to bid us farewell.

female northern harrier in the golden afternoon light

Later that evening, Pam and Steve invited us for prickly pear margaritas. Over our three weeks at Casita, we had occasionally heard the hoot of a great horned owl in the pecan tree outside our front door. One night at 3am I went outside with a flashlight and found him sitting at the top of the tree, just out of range of my light and certainly out of range of a camera.

We sat under the pecan tree, calling for the owl. No owl was seen (or heard) but we enjoyed friendly conversation, a warm fire, and stars twinkling overhead.

a warm fire for our last night at Casita

It was a fitting end to our time at Casita del Cranes.

My sister lives west of Dallas and we wanted to spend a weekend with her before continuing home to Florida. But it is a nine-hour drive from Lemitar, so we broke up the trip by booking one night at the LaQuinta in Roswell.

We drove east through the lava fields and the spectacular Capitan Mountains.

the Capitan Mountains east of Carrizozo, NM

The town of Roswell was somewhat of a disappointment. It sits in the middle of a vast wasteland, surrounded for miles in all directions by nothing but rolling yellow hills. It is easy to imagine a UFO touching down somewhere in all that nothingness.

Roswell sits in the middle of a vast wasteland, surrounded by nothing

But the kitschy part of town is only about three blocks on Main Street, with lots of tacky souvenir shops,

the kitschy part of Roswell

Themed restaurants,

Dunkin Donuts

And the UFO museum.

the UFO museum

The rest of the town is kind of blah, without a whole lot of personality.

Welcome, Earthlings!

Once you cross the New Mexico/Texas border you come upon hundreds of miles of cotton fields. Many had huge bales bundled up in colorful yellow or pink wrappers.

the cotton fields of west Texas

The landscape changes dramatically as you near the Dallas area – it turns into rolling hills with lots of green trees. We spent a too-short, but delightful visit with J & D in their beautiful home.

my family (minus Maddie who was hiding under the bed)

We wanted to get a head start on DFW traffic, so we left on Sunday afternoon rather than waiting until Monday morning.

We were glad we did, as even on Sunday the traffic was intense for us country folks!

DFW traffic on a Sunday afternoon

At the start of our journey, we had passed through the interesting town of Bogata, TX, and promised ourselves we would take time for photos on our way back east.

There are several old garages filled with classic cars and trucks. Many private homes also have vintage cars sitting on their lawns.

vintage trucks in Bogata, TX

Multiple Google searches did not turn up any explanation for all the cool old cars, but it was fun to see and photograph them!

Bogata, TX

Driving as many hours as we did, we came up with fun games to pass the time. One was “if you could live anywhere based solely on the name, where would it be?”  “Baton Rouge” is a fun name to say, as is “Sheboygan.”  But then we passed a sign for:

Hot Coffee, MS

???? HOT COFFEE?!?  Seriously, it’s a real town in Mississippi, and on our next trip we will have to check it out!

We spent our last night in Tallahassee. We had a six-hour drive home to Okeechobee and only 30 minutes to St. Marks Wildlife Refuge. There had been multiple sightings of a flamingo at the refuge, and we wanted to see it for ourselves.

Oscar and Maddie were zapped and ready to go home!

So, we detoured south to St. Marks early the following morning and were not disappointed. The flamingo was there, looking ever-so-elegant in the early morning light.

American Flamingo, Phoenicopterus ruber

We also saw three bald eagles,

bald eagle

Some white-tailed deer,

Maddie was very interested in the deer

And were pleasantly surprised to find a few monarch butterflies still fluttering about.

a few remaining monarch butterflies fluttering about

You can see more photos from St. Marks here (click on photo then use the arrow to go through the images):

st marks pano 1-SharpenAI-focus-DeNoiseAI-standard-gigapixel-standard-scale-1_50x

We were heading home by 9:30am and pulled into our driveway mid-afternoon. It was an amazing trip and of the 17-odd things we wanted to see/photograph we got all but one: a rattlesnake. But it WAS winter after all!

Pepper before and after!

We also learned a lot about how to streamline for our next big adventure. TG and jet (and Oscar & Maddie) are indeed back “On the Road” again!

In conclusion, here are TG’s thoughts on our trip:

This was the longest road trip in distance and duration, and was a test run of sorts for some even longer journeys we have in mind…

Some Pros: JET is the best human road buddy…..we did not kill each other despite being together 24/7 for 28 days straight, much of it in the confines of a 2012 VW Jetta wagon.

Oscar & Maddie are the best non-human road buddies, period.

Driving across TX, in much of NM and a chunk of AZ, 75 MPH speed limits are the norm, even on 2 lane country roads…we liked it, especially with the new set of rubber we installed on Pepper before the trip.

Speaking of Pepper, she ran like a top, only burned a quart of diesel oil, which was expected based on my conversation with the VW dealership where we have her serviced…averaged 33 MPG for the 7,700 miles about 4,000 of which were with a 64 x 40 cargo basket holding a 63x38x18 cargo bag and contents…kind of like driving down the road with a refrigerator on top of your car.

New Mexico is truly The Land of Enchantment.

Taco Bell cheezy bean & rice burritos are the cheapest and best road food.

The Grand Canyon in November is sublime and uncrowded.

Pietown, NM is the only place to get Pecan Pie Muffins….and that is a good thing, because I would weigh 450 lbs in short order if they were in Okeechobee.

Tallahassee, FL is a beautiful little city.

Piñon coffee.

Hyatt Hotels are simply the best for road travel.

Some Cons: Not all Best Westerns are even close to Best.

Monument Valley is not worth the time, unless you enjoy a highly controlled , yet unpoliced experience.

Cigarette smokers congregating near your hotel room.

Cigarette smokers letting their dog run free and straight for Oscar & Maddie.

Roswell, NM is not worth the visit for a few cheap and crappy souvenir shops and a lame UFO museum.

Traveling more than 10 hours in one day is not worth it.

All in all, we can’t wait for the next adventure in 2022.

If you’ve stuck with me this far then a huge Thank You! And if you want to look at all our photos, the links to our Flickr sets are below:


shiprock panorama - 6 images


Bosque del Apache

The Tent Learning Curve

Ever since we sold Terrapin back in June, we’ve been hoping for a tent-only camping trip out at Kissimmee Prairie Preserve State Park over the new moon.  But the forecast called for cloudy skies with thunderstorms in July, so we nixed that.  The same thing happened in August, so nixed once again!  I was beginning to despair we’d never get a clear enough night to shoot the Milky Way this summer. 

June 9, 2021 our last clear night sky (with meteor) out at Kissimmee

But we booked three nights over the new moon in September and hoped for the best.  This time I was particularly anxious as we had friends also camping at the same time and we had invited them to join us for dinner one night.

Our first night was the Sunday before Labor Day, and the forecast again called for afternoon thunderstorms and cloudy skies overnight.  Rather than risk getting rained on our very first night in the new tent, we drove the 45 minutes to the park that afternoon to check in and let the host know that we would be back the following morning to set up.

roseate spoonbills on our drive out to Kissimmee Prairie Preserve State Park

Monday dawned with a cloudless blue sky and bright sunshine.  We left for the park around 8am and planned a couple of photo stops on our way.

Just as we turned onto CR724, we spied a bald eagle on a power pole, beautifully positioned against the blue sky.

bald eagle in flight

A little further along, there was a sunn hemp field in full bloom.

sunn hemp field in full bloom

Sunn hemp is a cover crop, used on farmlands during the summer months to rejuvenate the soil with much-needed nutrients, to control weeds, to prevent soil erosion during thunderstorm and hurricane season, and add herbage back into the soil before the next planting.

TG doing what he does best!

So not only are they beautiful to look at, but they also provide a valuable service to farmland!  I thought the bright yellow flowers against the clear blue sky looked perfect in the eastern morning light.

sunn hemp flowers close-up

We arrived at the park a little after 9 am.  It took us about an hour to set up our new CRUA Core tent and by then the temps had soared into the low 90’s.  For the first time since selling Terrapin, we missed her A/C!

tent campsite all set up!

During lunch we were entertained by the cara caras and crows interested in our veggie wraps.

caracara interested in our veggie wraps

After a short nap, we took a drive to cool off a bit before getting ready for our dinner guests.

Carl and Laura arrived promptly at 5:30 and we enjoyed good conversation and food before heading out for a sunset / evening drive through the park.

sunset at the park

You never know what you might spy on a night drive out at Kissimmee.  Over the years I’ve seen burrowing, barn, and barred owls, bobcats, wild hogs, alligators, deer, armadillos, raccoons, coyote, snakes (including a huge eastern diamondback), and frogs.  

coyote at dusk

This night did not disappoint:  not only were we treated to a glorious sunset, we saw a barred owl, an alligator, a nighthawk, a banded water snake,

banded water snake

And a half dozen burrowing owls flitting from side to side like tiny cherubs.

burrowing owls look like little cherubs as they flit from side to side

Much to my delight, by the time I got back to our campsite the skies were clear enough to see the Milky Way.  I grabbed my camera and set up for a few shots between the clouds.

Milky Way between the clouds

Our tent has a vestibule-type opening before the actual zippered doors.

We had set up our commissary in that area and opened all three sides to get as much cross-breeze as possible throughout the tent.   Bedtime was uncomfortably hot, and no one was getting much sleep.

“vestibule” before the main tent — the two sides can also be zipped open

Around 3 am we were awakened by Oscar and Maddie nearly bolting through the screen.  We had not left any food out, but we did leave a plastic bag with napkins from dinner.   Something, most likely a raccoon or opossum, had crept into the commissary, ransacked the garbage bag, and dragged TG’s shoes across the campsite. 

not sure what it was that ransacked our “commissary” but I’ve seen both raccoons and opossums prowling around at night!

We did not see or hear a thing, but Oscar and Maddie were on such high alert we had to put them in the kennel for the rest of the night.

poor Oscar and Maddie relegated to the kennel!

Despite the restless night, we were up before dawn on Tuesday morning.

It looked to be another beautiful day so after our coffee we went for drive.  There were coveys of bobwhites running alongside the road,

coveys of bobwhites
bobwhite quail close-up

We also saw caracaras,

crested caracara

Eastern meadowlarks, cattle egrets,

eastern meadowlark
cattle egrets on the pasture fences

And loggerhead shrikes sitting in their customary spots close to the park entrance.

loggerhead shrike

It was a lovely drive but promised to be another hot day.  Rather than suffer through it, we decided to pack up and head home a day early. 

We knew switching from Terrapin to tent camping would be a bit of a learning curve.  There are things we forgot (clothespins) and things we’ll do differently next time (not leave ANY garbage out at night). 

In spite of the heat we had a great time and look forward to our next trip — Kissimmee Prairie is one of our absolute favorite places to visit any time of the year. But maybe we’ll wait to camp again until it’s just a little cooler!

kissing amongst the sunn hemp flowers

Spend Your Money On Experiences, Not Things

We’ve taken Terrapin out 14 times in the ten months we’ve owned her, giving us almost a full year of fun memories. She kept us sane through COVID and helped shift our travel paradigm.

camping at Kissimmee Prairie Preserve State Park

Who can forget my birthday owl?

my birthday owl

Or that spectacular meteor?

meteor at Kissimmee Prairie Preserve State Park June 9, 2021

Or “Dashboard Jesus”?

Dashboard Jesus!

International travel is not yet in our future — as of this writing, Japan is considering closing the 2021 Summer Olympics to all spectators due to an increase in COVID cases — and we simply do not have the confidence to board a long-distance flight.  So, TG and I have set our sights beyond the borders of Florida and are currently planning multi-week road trips across the USA.

planning trips!

Visiting friends in Tennessee, New Mexico’s big dark skies, Georgia’s waterfalls, Iowa’s covered bridges, and the Northern Lights of Michigan’s U.P. are all on the list. The more we consider our USA travel options, the more places we are finding to go!

Georgia’s waterfalls high on TG’s list!

We – and the pups – have loved camping in Terrapin.  She is everything you need in a compact little package. 

home sweet Terrapin

But she gets horrible gas mileage:  7 miles to the gallon.  Plus, she is not at all nimble for photo safaris.  We would either have to tow a car (and further decrease our mileage) or rent once we arrived at our destination.  Neither of these options made sense to us. 

TG and I are too practical to let her sit in the driveway for the next year while we traveled around the country in our Jetta Sportwagen.  It was time to find her a new home.  And, surprisingly quick, that’s exactly what we did.

Terrapin at her new home in Sarasota (photo courtesy of new owners Tom & Wanda)

TG always says, “spend your money on experiences, not things,” so I waved good-bye with a bit of sadness and a lot of excitement about what our future might bring.

Bye-Bye Terrapin

Going forward we will be tent camping, or staying in hotels and Air BnB’s.  TG has managed to procure several credit cards tied to points at pet-friendly hotels.  This will make any long-distance trip affordable and comfortable.

pet-friendly hotels and Air BnB’s

In addition to the orange tent with its airy screened roof, we’ve purchased a 4-season CRUA Core tent.  Between the two, we will have plenty of room to spread out.

our new CRUA Core tent

We will be testing our new arrangement soon so stay tuned for continuing adventures on the road with Tall Guy and jet!

one night in the orange tent at Kissimmee Prairie Preserve State Park

Florida Keys: Sunshine, Margaritas, and … Deer?

Ever since we moved to Florida, I have been enchanted with the Florida Key Deer (Odocoileus virginianus clavium).  Found only in the Keys, they are a subspecies of the Virginia white-tailed deer, are the smallest of all North American deer, and are classified as endangered. 

Florida Key Deer

I saw one years ago on a drive down to Key West but it was just a quick spy along the side of US1 as we zipped by.  I’ve always wanted to go back to photograph them but living in Okeechobee, that required at least one overnight somewhere closer than our four-five hour drive away.  We finally planned a short trip in June, an optimal time to see both adults and fawns.

June is a great time to spy Key Deer

Pet-friendly hotels in the Keys are expensive so it made sense to find someplace closer to Miami.  We are also in the process of planning a trip out west for sometime next fall. With their affordable room rates and no pet fee, this was the perfect opportunity to check out a LaQuinta Inn.  We booked two nights at the property in Cutler Bay.

LaQuinta Inn & Suites, Cutler Bay

The suite was spacious and clean, with a fridge and microwave.  

long desk along one wall, plus fridge and microwave

The king-size bed was comfortable enough.  The hotel is nothing fancy but we will definitely include them as an economical stop on long-distance road trips.

nothing fancy but the room was clean and comfortable with NO pet fee!

Two-thirds of the key deer population is concentrated on Big Pine Key and a few surrounding islands.  This geographical isolation in such a small area is one of the reasons why they are endangered.  Since Cutler Bay is a minimum two-hour drive north of Big Pine, we were in bed early so we could be on the road by 5am the next day. We wanted a few hours of good light before the sun got too high and bright for photos.

we wanted at least a few hours of good light!

Unfortunately, our fellow guests were up into the wee hours and it was difficult to keep Oscar quiet.  None of us got much sleep that night!

none of us got much sleep that night

We were wide awake and ready to go by 4:45 and enjoyed a beautiful sunrise as we drove south.

a beautiful sunrise behind us as we drove south to Big Pine Key

There was virtually no traffic,

no traffic on the 7-Mile Bridge

And we reached Big Pine Key a little before 7am. 

We’re here!

There are a few areas around Big Pine and No Name Key where deer are pretty much guaranteed, but in reality it’s possible to see them grazing along the side of the road just about anywhere.

Big Pine and No Name Key map with wildlife viewing areas noted

We headed over the bridge to No Name Key and spied quite a few deer along our way.

pregnant mama grazing in a front yard
it’s possible to spy them anywhere!

The first thing you notice about these deer is their size … they are small.  Very small.  They are miniature versions of their northern cousins and it’s difficult to grasp their size from photos. 

these deer are miniature versions of their northern cousins

Adult males stand just over two feet at the shoulder and weigh around 70 lbs. The females are slightly smaller, and the fawns weigh only 2-4 lbs. at birth. 

the does are slightly smaller than the males

When this male approached our car, his head was level with my open window.

his head was level with my open window

Despite all the signage warning against feeding them, it is clear that people still do. 

warning signs everywhere “Feeding deer kills deer”

The deer were for the most part very tame and not at all shy about approaching our car.

for the most part the deer are not at all shy

After leaving No Name Key, we checked out a few other spots – an abandoned limestone quarry called the Blue Hole – where we did not spy any deer but did see a very friendly alligator,

nothing but a friendly alligator at Blue Hole

And the neighborhoods at the north end of Big Pine Key where we were captivated by a sweet little fawn.

neighborhood at north end of Big Pine Key
such an adorable little boy!

By now it was getting close to 10am and the light was starting to go.  We had more than enough photos, including everything on my wish-list: a buck with antlers and a fawn. 

got everything on my wish list!

We drove back to No Name Key for one more pass.  We’re glad we did as we came upon a small herd of six deer frolicking in the morning sunshine!

frolicking on No Name Key
No Name Key

Mission accomplished, we decided to drive home to Okeechobee as soon as we returned to the hotel and packed up.  There was no point in hanging around the LaQuinta for another night when we could be sleeping in our own bed!

home to Okeechobee via US27

Between our drive south to Big Pine Key, the time we spent photographing the deer, and the drive back north to Okeechobee, we spent over 12 hours in the car that day.  Oscar and Maddie did great, even when deer walked right up to our open windows.   We are more confident than ever that we – and the pups – are ready for a multi-day cross-country road trip!

TG getting the shot!

The New Moon in June

The best time to photograph the Milky Way is the spring through fall months – when the galactic center is visible above the horizon.  And clear, dark skies are a must for a good photo.  Of course, being in Florida “clear, dark skies” are never a given so the best one can do is plan and then hope the weather cooperates!

Milky Way at Kissimmee Prairie Preserve State Park

We’ve found that both Cleardarksky and Accuweather are great tools for helping to plan night sky shots but then you need to find a dark spot with good composition opportunities to make for a truly compelling photo.

Kissimmee Prairie Preserve State Park is one of only two Dark Sky parks in Florida – and on a clear night the sky is exceptionally dark, making stars, planets, and the Milky Way visible even with the naked eye.

a starry night out at Kissimmee

Fortunately for us, Kissimmee is located less than an hour from our home in Okeechobee and our favorite place to camp.  We booked three nights over the new moon in June and then hoped the weather would cooperate.

on our way!

Our plan was to stay up late each night and take it easy during the day. 

we planned to take it easy during the day
pileated woodpecker above our campsite

So, after we set up, I went for a short hike to scout out some potential locations for later that night.

scouting potential locations for later that night

On my walk I saw a beautiful female eastern towhee enjoying a little snack

female eastern towhee

And a hole I thought might be home to a snake until this little guy popped out!

what a cutie!

This scraggly tree looked like it might make for a good composition so I planned to return to this spot later that night.

I thought this might make for a good composition

After dinner we watched a beautiful sunset

sunset over the equestrian pasture

And relaxed by the campfire while we waited for nightfall. 

Oscar enjoying the campfire

The sky was so clear, and the stars so bright that TG set up his tripod around 9pm to start shooting a star stack.  A star stack is a series of photos taken over several hours and then stacked together into a single photo using a special (free) program.  The rotation of the earth gives the stars a beautiful “pinwheel” effect.

TG’s star stack from Colt Creek State Park

There weren’t a lot of campers that night, and everyone was out with lawn chairs set up to enjoy the cool evening and the brilliant night sky.  Suddenly a meteor shot directly over our heads.  It was the largest, brightest, most long-lasting meteor I had ever seen as it sailed across the sky and disappeared in a fireball on the horizon.  And because TG was already shooting continuous 10-second exposures pointed in that direction, he was able to capture it!

meteor processed as a single image

A short time later I heard the unmistakable “squee” of a juvenile barred owl.  I followed the sound and found her sitting on a branch directly behind the bath house – in so much light I was able to spot her as soon as I got close. 

juvi barred owl behind the bath house

She was watching an opossum, but must have decided it was too big a meal.

the little owl was intently watching this opossum!

I heard more rustling in the bushes and suddenly out popped three armadillos!  Armadillos are nearly blind and this one practically bumped into me as he scurried on his way.

one of three armadillos prowling around the campgrounds

By now it was after 11pm and the Milky Way was rising above the tree line behind the campground. I took a few shots and then hiked to the scraggly tree I had scouted out earlier.

Milky Way over the campground

Just as I thought, the tree made for a beautiful composition with the Milky Way rising behind it.           

After taking a few shots I headed back to our campsite and set up my tripod for my own star stack.  I locked my shutter release for continuous 20-second exposures and went to bed. 

my star stack – 307 images shot over approx 2 1/2 hours

TG woke me around 5am.  The Milky Way was directly overhead

Milky Way directly overhead at 4:30am

And we enjoyed the pre-dawn quiet with our morning coffee.

waking up in the pre-dawn light