It’s Only Rock & Roll (& Rattle) But I Like It

TG and I both reached a milestone birthday in 2024, a year shaping up to be full of memorable moments. We celebrated my big day by spending a week in Crystal River, FL snorkeling with the manatees.

Three Sisters Springs, Crystal River, FL, January 2024

TG, a lifelong Rolling Stones fan, was over the moon when we learned that the first stop on the Stone’s Hackney Diamonds tour was in Houston, conveniently on our way to New Mexico. We added two nights onto the beginning of our trip and could barely contain our excitement as we purchased tickets for the April 28 concert. Happy Birthday, TG!

AARP Rocks Houston!

It was a great show, with the timeless talent of Mick, Keith, Ronnie, and the band combined with incredible technology.  We had a fantastic time, singing along to old favorites and grooving to songs off their new album.

Miss You, Houston, TX 4-28-24

The following morning, we continued our journey west. After two visits to the Bosque del Apache in November, we were eager to experience the unique charm of New Mexico’s desert in the hot summer months with its colorful rattlesnakes, lizards, and toads.

Welcome to New Mexico!

This visit marked our third stay at Casita del Crane’s, Pam’s cozy Airbnb in Lemitar. It has become our home away from home and a perfect base for explorations.

Casita del Cranes

Pam is always interested in our photo safaris and sharing goodies such as fresh greens from her organic garden. These personal touches make our stays here so special.

Pam selling her organic veggies and eggs at a local farmer’s market

You can find her listing here:

https://www.airbnb.com/Casita del Cranes

Something we’ve always enjoyed about staying at Pam’s is all the nature that greets us right outside our door.

so much nature right outside our door!

A stroll through her garden or a walk on the dirt road alongside the creek is a wildlife adventure in itself. We’ll often see roadrunners scurrying along the railroad tracks — so cliché it’s comical!

a roadrunner clearly up to mischief!

And the rumble of the freight trains that pass by, accompanied by a long, lonesome whistle and clickety-clack of the cars, is charming.

freight train rumbling by

You can view all our photos from our walkabouts at Pam’s here:

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hover on photo and then arrow through the set or click to open a new tab in Flickr

We explored Spring in the Bosque del Apache – a different time of year than previous visits. It was a tranquil place, with none of the mad frenzy we witnessed during the sandhill crane migration in November.

Bosque del Apache, May 2024

While we searched for reptiles,

western zebra-tailed lizard, Bosque del Apache

We also enjoyed all the birds and other wildlife that call this area home.

vermillion flycatcher, Bosque del Apache

We drove to the Valley of Fires, a lava flow covering 125 square miles. From a distance, it looks like black, barren rock, but as you hike the trails, you’ll see many varieties of desert flowers, cacti, and trees.

Mountain tea growing out of the black lava, Valley of Fires

The valley was formed around 5,000 years ago when a volcano erupted, leaving behind a trail of molten lava. It’s a fascinating place, a stark contrast between destruction and new life. 

125 square miles of black lava

Thanks to TG’s keen eyes and trusty binocs, we watched as ground squirrels and Harris’s antelope squirrels foraged for breakfast.

Harris’s antelope squirrel (Ammospermophilus harrisii), Valley of Fires

It’s a birdwatcher’s paradise, and we spied ash-throated flycatchers, black-throated sparrows, and western tanagers among other birds.

ash-throated flycatcher, Valley of Fires

Just a week after settling in, we were back on the road for another concert. The Stones were performing in Glendale, AZ on May 7, just a seven-hour drive away. One of TG’s best friends from high school and his brother live in the Phoenix area, so along with Dan, Bill, and their wives, we purchased Stones tickets for a second show in as many weeks.

on our way to Glendale, AZ

After dinner and some quality catch-up time, we piled into our cars and headed over to State Farm Stadium. The atmosphere was electric, with fans of all ages eagerly anticipating the show. And the Rolling Stones did not disappoint.

eagerly waiting for the Stones!

Their performance was off-the-charts, even better than the tour opening in Houston.

“I know it’s only rock & roll but I like it” (Yes that’s me singing along with Mick)

The drive to and from Arizona was beautiful. Our route took us up and over the mountains, with every curve in the road a new, breathtaking view.

our drive through the Arizona mountains

We finished our second week with a lot of rock and roll …

Monkey Man, Glendale, AZ 5-7-24

A lot of rocks …

Valley of Fires

And a lot of lizards …

greater earless lizard, Bosque del Apache

But no rattlesnakes – unless you count the what-we-thought-was-dead snake lying in the middle of the road. By the time we turned around to get a proper ID, it was gone. Either a raptor scooped it up or it slithered off on its own! 😲

On the night of May 10, the Earth was hit by a G5 solar storm, a rare and powerful event that occurs when a large amount of energy is released from the sun’s atmosphere. This was the strongest geomagnetic storm in 21 years, causing the KP index to spike to 9. The internet exploded with photos from as far south as Key Largo, FL, capturing the stunning auroras that were a result of this storm. 

Aurora forecast for May 10, 2024

TG woke me at 2:30am. “You’re going to want to come outside,” was all he had to say for me to be up and out the door with my camera and tripod. Visible even to our naked eyes, we were amazed at what we could capture with our lenses.

May 11, 2024, 3:00am

In the hour we stood outside, awe-struck, the sky changed colors from vivid reds to purples & greens to pinks & oranges. It was hard to put away our cameras and go back to bed!

May 11, 2024, 3:30am

We started Week Three with high expectations. We were each going to have a solo adventure, with TG embarking on a trip to Prince Rupert, British Columbia, while I stayed back at Pam’s with Oscar and Maddie.

Oscar spies a roadrunner in Pam’s garden

I dropped TG off at the Albuquerque airport on Monday afternoon. He was due back on Friday after an overnight flight from Vancouver. The three days stretched before me, and I planned to make the most of them.

ABQ Sunport

When I took O & M out later that evening, we stumbled upon a woodhouse’s toad (Anaxyrus woodhousii) sitting in the driveway! These toads are native to the western United States and eat a variety of insects and scorpions—so a welcome visitor to have around the house!

woodhouse’s toad

The following morning, I decided to hike the Canyon National Recreation Trail in the Bosque del Apache. This trail is a 2.2-mile “lollipop” loop through the Chihuahuan Desert, the Solitude Canyon, and a climb to the top of a 200ft mesa.

view from the top of the mesa

I had no doubt I would see birds and lizards

western whiptail lizard

But with snakes proving challenging to find, I started my hike with zero expectations. Little did I know I was in for an astonishing surprise.

As I stepped off the trail for a closer look at something, I found myself face to face with a magnificent western diamondback rattlesnake, basking in a puddle of warm sunshine! The sheer beauty of the moment left me breathless. 

can you spot the snake?

After capturing countless photos, I continued my hike. When I returned to the start of the loop, I retraced my steps, hoping to catch another glimpse of my resting beauty. However, she had gracefully moved on. I whispered a silent ‘Thank You‘ to the wilderness and made my way back to the car. 

western diamondback rattlesnake, 5-14-24

What an exciting start to my solo week!

The following day, I returned to the Canyon Trail. To my delight, Resting Beauty was still in the same area, nestled under a bush with thick, tangled branches providing a near-perfect camouflage. 

western diamondback rattlesnake, 5-15-24

Ater taking a few shots, I moved on, leaving her undisturbed. As I continued my hike, I was thrilled to spot four more different lizards, each one new to me.

Texas spiny lizard

And then, as if to add a touch of whimsy, I came across an adorable desert cottontail, its soft fur blending perfectly with the sandy landscape.

desert cottontail

You can see all the photos from my Canyon Trail hikes here:

western diamondback rattlesnake
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On Thursday I woke to a thunderstorm, but by noon the skies had cleared, and the cheerful chirping of birds beckoned me to the nearby Socorro Nature Area, a BLM reserve just three miles from Pam’s. 

brown-crested flycatcher, Socorro Nature Area

The sky over the mountains looked ominous, but there was sunshine overhead. So, I ventured out on the one-mile loop to see what I could see.

the mountains to the west, 12:00pm

As I walked along, the air was filled with the calls of many different birds, including a pair of Gambel’s quail. These birds, with their distinctive topknot of black feathers, captivated me on our first visit to New Mexico in 2021. Their call resembles a meowing cat; when alarmed, they gurgle like they’re underwater. On that first visit, I thought they were rare and intriguing. I still find them charming, but they are so common that these days I’m much more selective about when I snap a photo.

Gambel’s quail (male), Socorro Nature Area

I checked the dead logs and scrub for signs of life and was thrilled to spot several lizards. I’ve learned the ID’s of so many lizards on this trip: “A common side-blotched,” I whispered to myself, and later “a checkered whiptail!” 

common side-blotched lizard, Socorro Nature Area

You can see all the photos from my Socorro Nature Area hikes here:

Entrance sign
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That night, TG called while awaiting his flight from Vancouver. He was excited about everything he had seen in Prince Rupert and couldn’t wait to share his experiences with me. And I was just as excited to share my three days with him. Our solo adventure week had been a win-win!

TG on the Prince Rupert Adventure Tours “Inside Passage”

You can read TG’s Prince Rupert blog here (right click on title to open in a new tab):

right click on title to open in a new tab

TG wanted to work on his photos, so on Saturday I returned to the Canyon Trail hoping to spot Resting Beauty – or one of her cousins. There were no snakes that morning, but I was delighted to add another new lizard to my growing list:  a long-nosed leopard!

long-nosed leopard lizard

TG and I went back to the Canyon Trail three more times after that, and on two occasions we spied Resting Beauty tucked tightly beneath a thick tangle of branches. She didn’t give us *quite* the photo-op of my first sighting but it was a thrill nonetheless!

western diamondback rattlesnake 5-25-24

Pam and Steve invited us to a BBQ party one afternoon. We wanted to stick close to home, so that morning we headed to the Socorro Nature Area.

TG photographing lizards at the Socorro Nature Area

We spotted several lizards, including two new ones: a desert side-blotched lizard and a Chihuahuan spotted whiptail. 

Chihuahuan spotted whiptail lizard

TG stepped towards a rock to photograph yet another lizard when WHOOPS! he almost stepped on a five-foot bull snake, fully stretched out and basking in the morning sun. 

WHOOPS! a 5-foot bull snake fully stretched out, basking in the morning sun

I saw him jump out of the way before I saw what made him jump. What a big, beautiful girl she was! As we watched, she slithered up a pile of dirt and into her little hidey-hole.

bull snake

Later that day, we walked next door for the BBQ. Most of Pam and Steve’s friends are musicians, and we were treated to a delightful afternoon of good conversation and the soulful sounds of rock and roll.

Grateful Dead, Tom Petty, John Prine, and their own original songs

One day we couldn’t resist checking out one of the quirkiest roadside attractions you will spy driving around Albuquerque:  a giant rattlesnake gliding down the median on a long hill near the airport.

giant rattlesnake selfie!

The snake has spawned many urban legends, but the real story is simple. When the city hired Sites Southwest to landscape the median, they were faced with a challenge. Plants were not an option, as there was no water source. So, they decided upon a sculpture that spoke to the region, and what better way to represent New Mexico than a giant rattlesnake made of rocks?!?

Albuquerque’s giant rattlesnake sculpture

With incredible geological formations, New Mexico’s many wilderness areas allow you to immerse yourself in the tranquility and beauty of nature. San Lorenzo Canyon, a mere six miles from Pam’s, is one of these unique gems.

San Lorenzo Canyon

This natural wonderland contains picturesque sandstone cliffs, mesas, arches, and hoodoos.

hoodoo in San Lorenzo Canyon

It reflects millions of years of Earth’s history – a landscape shaped by the movement of tectonic plates and erosion.

a landscape shaped by the movement of tectonic plates and erosion

The beauty of the place is truly inspiring!

Apache plumes, San Lorenzo Canyon

We dedicated two days to exploring the San Lorenzo Canyon. Our goal was to search for wildlife while capturing the breathtaking landscapes. 

TG doing his magic

On our first morning hike, we spied several lizards, colorful desert flowers, beautiful birds, and four antelope jackrabbits that scattered as soon as they caught sight of us.

the antelope jackrabbits scattered as soon as they caught sight of us

We stuck to paths we felt confident to hike. However, there was one climb that I decided to abort midway.

midway up I decided to abort my climb

I feared that what went up might not be able to come down, so I turned around and let TG scramble to the top.

TG made it to the top!

On our second visit, we drove the 5 ½ miles to the canyon’s end. The road dead-ends at a small spring, surprisingly full of cold, somewhat muddy water.

the spring at the end of the San Lorenzo Canyon Road

We hiked around on the rocks, looking for lizards and other wildlife while also shooting the stunning rock formations.

cliff chipmunk
San Lorenzo Canyon

Not intending to rockhound, I found two lovely pieces of sparkling pinky-white quartz!

We got up early one morning to explore the Petroglyph National Monument, just outside of Albuquerque. This national park is home to one of the largest petroglyph sites in North America.

Petroglyph National Monument

There are multiple trails at the park, each of varying length. We chose to hike the Piedras Marcadas Canyon, a 1.8-mile loop. Although the Piedras (rocks) Marcadas (marked) were named by the Spanish settlers who came to this area during the mid-1600s, most of the petroglyphs were made by ancient Pueblo people 400-700 years ago, and to this day have profound cultural and spiritual significance.

ancient lizard petroglyph!

Upon starting our hike, we were delighted to spy a jackrabbit feeding in the early morning light. Later we came across a mother and four baby Harris’s antelope squirrels scampering around on the rocks.

a family of Harris’s antelope squirrels (Ammospermophilus harrisii)

That evening, Pam and Steve invited us to a “Sundowner.”  We drove to a remote area to view the ocotillo cacti blooming on the hillsides and enjoyed cheese & crackers while watching the sunset. As the skies grew dark, nighthawks and bats swooped in the air above us.

ocotillo cacti blooming at sunset

It was a wonderful end to our fourth week in New Mexico!

New Mexico sunset selfie

We were under no pressure during our final week. Our count was now up to 14 lizard, one toad, and two snake species—including four sightings of the western diamondback. We revisited many of the trails we had hiked before and began preparing for the next stop on our road trip.

San Lorenzo Canyon

However, New Mexico had one more surprise in store for us. Pam’s sister lives in Polvadera, just a ten-minute drive away. A pallid bat, Antrozous pallidus, had decided to take a nap on the side of her house! Pam drove me over to photograph this lovely little creature, sharing in the excitement of the moment.

pallid bat, Antrozous pallidus

Some might call us crazy for dedicating more than a month to the pursuit of snakes, lizards, and toads. And rest assured, we’re not planning to swap our beloved Oscar and Maddie for a pet python any time soon! But after a lifetime of capturing the wonders of our world underwater and the dozens of birds and mammals we’ve encountered on land, we felt it was time to turn our lenses towards the often-overlooked cold-blooded creatures.

TG capturing “Resty Beauty”

The animals in New Mexico’s desert are uniquely beautiful, and our journey of photographing them has opened our eyes to a whole new world. We hope this blog has sparked a sense of wonder in you, inspiring you to seek out and appreciate the beauty surrounding you, no matter where your journey takes you.

desert spider beetle

To view all of our photos from New Mexico visit our Flickr albums below.

TG:

giant roadrunner-03332-SharpenAI-Standard-DeNoiseAI-standard
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JET:

western kingbird
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Coming next … “You can observe a lot just by watching.” – Yogi Berra

Westward Ho(ly Cow)! Episode 3:  Back to the Bosque

In November of 2021, we spent a wonderful month at a little Airbnb in Lemitar, New Mexico.

Casita del Cranes, Lemitar, NM (2021)

It was located about 30 minutes from the Bosque del Apache Wildlife Refuge, where over 100,000 sandhill cranes, snow geese, and other migrating birds winter each year. So, when we returned to Casita del Cranes this year it was like coming home. We arrived late afternoon on Wednesday, November 2, and were settled in long before bedtime.

back to Casita del Cranes and the Bosque del Apache!

When we left Grand Teton, winter was right around the corner. A week later they had a foot of snow and temperatures had dropped to below zero. It was nice to return to autumn in New Mexico where the aspens and cottonwoods had just started to peak,

November 4, 2022

And we tracked the color changes over our month’s stay.

by the end of November, the leaves were nearly gone, and ice formed on the wetlands in the early morning

On this visit, we spent a lot of time just relaxing at Casita del Cranes.

such a relaxing place!

It is the last house on a quiet road and the only sounds are the birds

lots of kestrels on the power lines around Casita

And occasional freight trains that rumble by day and night – something we found charming.

picturesque freight trains rumble by day and night

Oscar and Maddie loved going for sunset walks along the ditch road,

sunset on the ditch road in front of Casita del Cranes

And checking on Pam’s chickens!

Oscar checking on Pam’s chickens

And we loved all the photo ops right outside our door.

a few of the animals around Casita (clockwise from lower left): Say’s phoebe, yellow warbler, roadrunner, Mexican ground squirrel, mourning dove

We heard the calls of the sandhill cranes every time we stepped outside.

sandhill cranes in the field next to Casita

And often found them in the nearby fields or flying overhead.

sandhill cranes at sunset

The Bosque del Apache is a combination of wetlands and agricultural fields, and the planted/flooded areas are rotated each year. Last year the birds were close to the roads and easy to photograph from the various observation decks.

sandhill cranes at the Flight Deck, November 2021

This year the Wetland Roost, an area alongside the road heading towards the main entrance, was flooded and we got some wonderfully close shots of the snow geese

snow geese flying out at sunrise

And sandhill cranes,

sandhill cranes at sunrise

Along with the coyotes that regularly scouted the shoreline in the early mornings.

coyotes on the shoreline in the early morning

We also managed to capture several of the Bosque regulars: an adorable least bittern doing her best to shoo away an American coot,

least bittern and American coot

the many duck species,

Northern pintail

White pelicans,

white pelicans

Northern harriers,

female northern harrier

Roadrunners,

roadrunner

And dozens of TTB’s (tiny twitchy birds).

dark-eyed junco

In addition to a 14-mile scenic driving loop, the Bosque maintains twelve hiking trails of various lengths and difficulty. Instead of spending all of our time looking for birds, we hiked several trails.

Some, like the Desert Arboretum, are short and easy.

Gambel’s quail (male) on the Desert Arboretum trail

It shares a parking lot with the Visitor’s Center and Gift Shop, making for a convenient stop on your way to or from the Bosque.

Others, like the Canyon National Recreational Trail, require a bit more planning.

the Canyon National Recreational Trail

It is a 2.5-mile trail through a canyon where we found animal tracks in the sand

snake, bobcat, and mice tracks in the soft sand along the trail

And nests tucked into crevices high up on the cliffs,

peregrine falcon nest high up on the cliff

While winding our way up to the top of a ridge with a glorious bird’s-eye view of the refuge.

couple’s selfie from the top of the ridge

The Bosque is not just about birds. Many other animals call this area home including javelinas,

javelina

Mule deer,

mule deer

Ground squirrels,

ground squirrel

And multiple species of reptiles.

Eastern side-blotched lizard

You can view all of our bird and wildlife photos here:

southwestern fence lizard-04412-SharpenAI-Standard-DeNoiseAI-standard
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We had such an incredible time in 2021 that we did not feel under any pressure to get “the shot” on this trip. We visited other wildlife refuges and explored the beautiful state of New Mexico.

Bernardo Waterfowl Area snow geese at sunset

One day we drove east to Tularosa and on our way, happened upon the Valley of Fires.

Valley of Fires campground pano

According to the BLM website, 5,000 years ago Little Black Peak erupted and flowed 44 miles into the Tularosa Basin, filling the basin with molten rock.

from a distance the lava looks black and dead

The resulting lava flow is four to six miles wide, 160 feet thick, and covers 125 square miles.

the lava is 160 feet thick! (vertical pano)

The lava appears black and dead but take a closer look and it is full of life

white-crowned sparrow (juvi)

And color!

the Valley of Fires is full color!

On another day we drove south and west to Silver City, stopping at the VLA.

the VLA

The VLA (Very Large Array) is comprised of twenty-eight enormous radio telescopes and is part of the National Radio Astronomy Observatory.

28 enormous radio telescopes

It also makes for some excellent photo ops!

taking photos at the VLA!

Catron County in western New Mexico has a population of over 12,000 elk. We did not see any elk on our drive, but we did see mule deer, a roadrunner running across the road (where else?), a coyote, and a beautiful golden eagle.

golden eagle in flight

We passed the Chino (aka Santa Rita) Open-Pit Copper Mine, the third largest in the world

the Chino Copper Mine

And something you must see to believe!

something you must see to believe!

We drove through the Gila National Forest with its astounding beauty

the road through the Gila National Forest

And exhilarating hairpin curves,

the road!

Stopping at the Emory Pass Overlook for a panoramic view of the mountains and forest.

Emory Pass Overlook

Ride along with us for 30 seconds as we head down the mountain. Unless you get dizzy easily – then skip the video!

fasten your seatbelt as we drive through the Gila National Forest!

On yet another day we drove north to the Rio Grande Gorge

Rio Grande Gorge from the High Bridge

And the High Bridge, located about ten miles west of Taos.

the High Bridge

At six hundred feet above the Rio Grande, it is the tenth highest bridge in the United States, and a bit unnerving for even the most intrepid!

TG walked out into the middle of the High Bridge

I wanted to photograph the bighorn sheep that are common in this area, but all we managed to find were some fresh tracks.

bighorn sheep tracks

We detoured home via Ramah, with prehistoric cliff dwellings dating back to 1200-1300 A.D.

prehistoric cliff dwellings in Ramah, 1200-1300 A.D.

And stopped at the El Morro National Monument where a waterhole hidden at the base of a sandstone bluff made it a popular campsite for hundreds of years.

El Morro Visitor’s Center

We did not take the time to hike to the ancient campsite to see the over 2,000 signatures, dates, messages, and petroglyphs carved into the sandstone walls.  Instead, we enjoyed a quiet picnic lunch in the Cibola National Forest before pointing ourselves back towards Lemitar and Casita del Cranes.

a picnic lunch in the Cibola National Forest

You can view all of our landscape photos from both the Bosque and our day trips here:

bernardo sunset-9233
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One day we drove to Gallup to visit the historic El Rancho Hotel. Opened in 1937, it was the base for many Hollywood movies filmed in the surrounding area and is full of movie star photographs and memorabilia.

such a fun day!

We had so much fun and took so many photos that this visit deserves its own Flickr album!

El Rancho Hotel
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Although we celebrated our 40th wedding anniversary back in October by splurging on a week at the McReynolds Blacktail Cabins in Grand Teton, the day we officially said “I do” was in November. We celebrated this special day with a long walk along the dirt road in front of Casita, dinner at the only restaurant in town open that day, and a night out shooting stars while being serenaded by howling coyotes. It was, indeed, a Happy Anniversary!

1982 /2022, my star stack, northern harrier in flight, and freight train wheels close up

During our month-long visit we sampled some of the local cuisine: huevos rancheros in Tularosa,

huevos rancheros at Loredo’s Bakery in Tularosa

Frito pie – which is shredded lettuce, tomatoes, beans, and cheese on top of Fritos mixed with red or green chile sauce – and considered a specialty in these parts.

My oh my, Frito Pie!

Piñon coffee – a “must” for coffee lovers in our opiñon!

piñon coffee and red chile veggie burrito

We also drove east and north to the tiny town of Corona for a delicious lunch at the El Corral Cafe, where real cowboys (complete with Old West hats) strolled in for their pick-up orders.

lunch at El Corral – where everyone feels like family

When ordering any dish with chiles, you are always asked “green” or “red.” We overheard a guest at El Corral say, “make mine Christmas-style.” And with December right around the corner, that is the perfect ending to our month in New Mexico!

Christmas – New Mexico style!

Coming Next: Westward Ho(ly Cow)! Mini Episode 3.5: “The BIG Surprise”

Badlands National Park