The Palouse covers about 3,000 square miles in Southeast Washington, Oregon, and Northern Idaho. The hills are massive piles of wind-blown, silty loess created during the last Ice Age when continental glaciers pulverized rock into fine powder.
the loess hills of the Palouse
This fertile, silty loess makes the Palouse a productive farming region – growing as much as 25% of the nation’s lentils as well as wheat, canola, and other crops.
canola field
And – it’s a landscape photographer’s paradise. The rolling hills burst into a kaleidoscope of vivid greens and yellows in the spring and turn into a golden wonderland by harvest in late summer.
green hills in June
Photographers flock here for the landscapes with the colors, shapes, and textures of the endless rolling terrain.
the Landscape Sensei at work
Old barns and farmhouses, weathered by time, stand in perfect harmony with the rolling hills, creating striking compositions or adding a splash of bright color to the landscape.
old barn on Chicken Ranch Road
Plenty of farm equipment is around, too, making excellent foreground subjects.
plenty of farm equipment around to photograph
And wildlife! The Palouse is home to a variety of species, including elk, deer, wild turkeys, and many birds.
white-tailed deer
Although this leg of our trip was not about wildlife, I couldn’t help but snap a pic when the opportunity presented itself. You can see my photos here:
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TG has always dreamed of spending a few days in the Palouse to capture the stunning landscapes. Our route north to British Colombia took us through this picturesque area, so we stopped for five nights at the Skywood Bed & Breakfast outside Mica, Washington.
Skywood B & B
It was perfect for us: a private downstairs suite with a beautiful view of the valley below. The only sounds were birds chirping and the occasional clucks of wild turkeys.
We started our first morning at Steptoe Butte State Park, a thimble-shaped 3,612-foot quartzite butte with a 360-degree view of the surrounding hills.
Steptoe Butte State Park
This is a popular spot for photographers and nature lovers alike, providing many of the “iconic Palouse” landscape photos you’ll see.
iconic Palouse from Steptoe Butte, June 2024
The narrow road to the top, which winds around and around like a perfectly peeled orange, has no guard rails and had me breathing into a paper bag.
Steptoe Butte Road winds around and around like a perfectly peeled orange
Once at the top, you are rewarded with a panoramic view that, on clear days, stretches for 200 miles in all directions. While TG busied himself with panos,
TG shooting panos from the top of Steptoe Butte
I scouted the area for wildlife. Much to my surprise and delight, I spied a yellow-bellied marmot – a critter we had seen but did not photograph in Yellowstone.
yellow-bellied marmot
TG had mapped out a route of photo-worthy subjects for the remainder of our day. On our way, we stopped for a row of old trucks lining the side of a farm,
cool old trucks lining the side of a farm
Beautiful old barns,
old barn
And the Artisans at Dahmen Barn, an artist’s colony with a most unusual fence! This unique attraction features a collection of local artisans’ work, including pottery, woodwork, and paintings. We bought a “Greetings from the Palouse” notecard and then spent the rest of our visit outside, photographing the fence.
a very unique fence!
The following day, we left Skywood before dawn. Sunrise in the Pacific Northwest comes before 5:00 am – and gets light even earlier. We wanted to shoot from Steptoe Butte while the morning sun created contrasting shadows on the rolling, green hills.
early (windy) morning view from Steptoe Butte
Our second visit to Steptoe Butte was challenging. We arrived at 6:00 am, greeted by the beautiful early morning light. However, the wind, forecasted to be 15mph, was stronger than expected at 25-30mph. It made standing at the top of the butte difficult and setting up a tripod next to impossible.
Steptoe Butte in the early morning
So, we continued to explore the countryside—it was hard not to stop at every weathered old barn and breathtaking landscape! But with such an early start, we were relaxing at home by noon.
we drove the country roads, shooting landscapes and weathered barns
Day Three began with rain, but we were determined to drive to Palouse Falls, a majestic waterfall about a two-hour drive from Skywood, with another stop at Steptoe Butte on our way. Palouse Falls is known for its breathtaking beauty, with cascading waters surrounded by rugged cliffs.
As we drove south, the rain decreased, and the lush green hills became even lusher and greener. It was drizzly when we got to Steptoe, and too windy at the top to take photos. But we stopped on our way back down – we could not resist photographing the valley’s dramatic clouds, their dark shadows contrasting with the vivid colors of the landscape.
vivid colors after the rain
We decided to head home for a few hours and try the Falls in the afternoon. I usually write these blogs in my head as the day progresses – putting my thoughts to paper in the evening. But that afternoon left me in awe, struggling to find the right words to describe our experience.
it rained all the way to Palouse Falls
It was overcast when we left Skywood, and not too long into our drive, the rain began in earnest. I hoped it would stop—and it did for a mile or two—before picking up again. In the rain, we drove past the buildings and towns we had photographed from high atop Steptoe Butte.
we photographed this grain elevator from high atop Steptoe Butte!
At the Palouse Falls turn-off we still had another nine miles on a steep, twisting road – and I continued to hope – and the rain continued to pummel the car. Despite the challenging weather conditions, we pressed on, determined to see the beauty of the Falls firsthand.
Arriving at the parking lot, we exchanged a look that said, “Here goes nothing.” Much to our surprise, the rain stopped — just in time for our visit! As we hurriedly grabbed our cameras and made our way to the overlook, the sun broke through the clouds, lighting the afternoon. And just when we thought it couldn’t get any more magical, a rainbow appeared on the canyon wall, adding a final touch of beauty.
a rainbow at Palouse Falls
Curious about our presence, a yellow-bellied marmot poked its head above the rocks. It was the first of many, as we soon spotted a half dozen or more marmots scurrying around the rock ledges.
TG shooting the marmot & falls
We spent far more time at the Falls than we had initially planned.
Palouse Falls selfie
As we made our way back north, the sun cast beautiful, long shadows on the loess hills, turning them into a patchwork of light and dark.
a patchwork of light and dark
So, we decided to swing by Steptoe Butte once more to take advantage of the afternoon light.
we stopped at Steptoe on our way home to take advantage of the afternoon light
The view was beyond expectation, with the vibrant green hills stretching as far as the eye could see.
vibrant green hills stretching on forever!
We spent our last morning driving the Scenic Byway and, that afternoon, got ready for our next road trip stop.
Palouse Scenic Highway
The Palouse presents a learning curve for photographers: initially, the rolling hills are so breathtakingly beautiful that you’re unsure where to focus your lens. However, with each drive, we became more familiar with the roads and the best vantage points. Reviewing our photos each evening guided us on what worked and what didn’t.
afternoon view from Steptoe Butte
And while our first visit to the Falls was a thrill, we know a second visit would undoubtedly yield even better results.
Palouse Falls
We hope to return someday in the late summer, when the fields are ready for harvest. Just imagine the sight of giant combines kicking up vast clouds of golden dust as they roll along! It must surely be a sight to see!
we hope to return someday!
They call the Palouse one of the “Seven Wonders of Washington,” and it is not hard to see why. It is a place of unparalleled beauty, and everyone should experience this area at least once in their lifetime.
canola field selfie
To see our photos from the Palouse, click below:
TG (the Landscape Sensei):
hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr
JET:
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When TG and I first started road tripping, we quickly learned that while a 10 to 12-hour drive might get you from Point A to B, you miss a lot on the journey. Now, we limit our driving days to eight hours or less to allow for sightseeing along our route.
We left New Mexico on Wednesday to arrive in Gardiner, MT, by Friday. The second stop on our “Westward Ho II” road trip was Yellowstone National Park. When we visited the park in the fall of 2022, we had many wonderful animal encounters, but we longed to see more bears, especially cubs.
October 2022
We spent Wednesday night in Gallup, N.M., and were on the road early Thursday morning, with a planned stop at Arches National Park before continuing to Provo, Utah. But first, we detoured by Ship Rock, a dramatic 7,177-foot-high rock formation on Navajo Nation land that figures prominently in Navajo mythology. We briefly chatted with Ray, a Navajo guide who was waiting for clients, took a few photos, and were on our way.
family selfie at Ship Rock
We drove north and west towards Arches, passing by another interesting rock formation called “Church Rock.”
TG at Church Rock
And the beautiful Wilson Arch.
me at the top of Wilson Arch (almost)
Regrettably, just after Wilson Arch, our plans took an unexpected turn. We found ourselves caught in a horrific traffic jam, with cars backed up for almost 15 miles. By the time we got through, it was too late to stop at Arches. Disappointed, we continued to Provo for the night, a reminder of the importance of building in extra time!
traffic backed up on 191 between Wilson Arch and Moab
We made it safely to Gardiner the following day with no further incidents. Our suite at the Super 8 was perfect: it had two bedrooms, two full bathrooms, a comfortable living area, and a fully equipped kitchen. We could not have asked for better accommodations for the four nights we spent outside the north entrance to Yellowstone.
view from our room at the Super 8, Gardiner (yes, that’s an elk by the building)
We were out the door early Saturday morning for our first photo safari into the park. There were herds of bison, pronghorns, and elk. We spied a moose cow with a small calf and later, two bulls. A coyote hunted in a field, and a red fox sashayed alongside the road with her mouth full of breakfast.
red fox with breakfast
And much to our surprise and delight, a mama grizzly with two cubs! This sighting was lucky as they came down the hill at a pull-out, with only two other cars already at the spot. We spent a good ½ hour with them before enough people had arrived to make it an official “bear jam.”
grizzly mama and two cubs
One interesting side note about this sighting: Because we were staying at the Super 8, we could not leave O & M alone in our hotel room—they had to accompany us into the park. Typically, when people or cars are nearby, Oscar is a jerk (there’s a reason we call him “Oscar the Grouch”). But he and Maddie were quiet as church mice during the grizzly sighting. No one even realized we had two dogs in the car. The pups knew … them thar was BEARS!!
O & M quietly waiting
On Sunday, we got another early start. We arrived in Lamar Valley by 7 a.m., and just a few miles into our drive, we spotted a mama grizzly and her year-old cub across the river. They gave us a more typical bear sighting than we had experienced the day before – they were at least 200 yards away.
grizzly mama and year-old cub across the river
We moved on to the Trout Lake trailhead, where we had the close encounter yesterday. There were no bears this morning, so we slowly made our way back west. About a mile down the road, we saw our mama and the cubs coming down the mountain.
mama and cubs coming down the mountain
A bison herd grazing in the field scattered as soon as the bears arrived. We had no agenda today, so we waited and watched to see if anything happened. The bears stayed far off, almost out of reach of our lenses.
the bison scattered as soon as the bears arrived
At one point, mama lay down, and the two cubs began nursing. Although we were too far away to see much, witnessing this intimate moment was still a thrill. Afterward, both cubs were in a milk coma, and they all napped. By this time, we had been in that spot for over two hours.
mama grizzly nursing her two cubs
Suddenly, mama started coming towards us, the cubs following behind. She wanted to cross the road to the river, but people and cars blocked her. She moved further down the hill, out of our sight, and finally crossed to the other side.
12-image gif of grizzly mama and cubs
We continued west, stopping for a badger
badger
And then a coyote before coming upon a huge group, watching a mama grizzly and three cubs high on the side of a hill. They were nothing more than little dots, even with our binoculars, so we didn’t linger.
classic Yellowstone bear jam
Not much further, we spied a lone cinnamon morph black bear grazing in a field of dandelions. This sighting turned into another bear jam, so after taking a few shots, we moved on.
a lone cinnamon morph black bear
It was another awe-inspiring day in the park, filled with the wonders of nature. As we drove home, I casually told TG that although I was thrilled with all our grizzly sightings, I still hoped to see a black bear with cubs.
On Monday, we planned to make a day of it and packed a picnic lunch. The weather was cloudy and drizzly, but we managed to spy the mama and year-old grizzly we had seen the day before in Lamar Valley. We decided to drive the Dunraven Pass, a scenic road that leads over Mt. Washburn, reaching an elevation of 8,800 feet.
the drive over Dunraven Pass – lots of snow up on the mountain!
No sooner had we started the drive than we spied a black bear grazing along the side of the road.
black bear
A few miles further, we found ourselves in a classic Yellowstone bear jam. Two tiny black bear cubs were perched at the top of a tall tree, their mother keeping a watchful eye from below. Two rangers were on duty, managing the traffic and ensuring everyone’s safety. Ranger Fred shared, “Her nickname is Good Mama, but I call her Bad Mama as she’s been known to charge.”
mama watching her cubs in the tree
The cubs were challenging to photograph. They were mostly hidden by branches and were nothing more than black blobs to the naked eye. Eventually, they woke up and started to climb down. Mama moved to the bottom of the tree, growing increasingly agitated. The crowd was kept back, 75 yards or more from the tree, as cars continued to pass by in both directions.
two tiny black bear cubs high up in a tree
As the situation escalated, Mama bear signaled the cubs to climb higher, and the rangers swiftly instructed us to return to our cars. “We’re turning this into a drive-by,” Fred said, “for the good of the bears and for your safety.” It was time for us to go.
time for us to go!
Near Fishing Bridge, there is a pull-out called LeHardy Rapids. We stopped there for lunch and to photograph the beautiful harlequin ducks surfing on the Yellowstone River.
harlequin ducks (one male and two females)
We drove back to Lamar Valley, but with the on-and-off rain, it was a tough day for everyone. A lone coyote, an animal we often see around the park, had created a huge traffic jam while he sat on the ridge eyeing the crowd and wondering what all the fuss was about.
coyote
Tuesday was moving day. We stayed near Yellowstone for a few nights to get sunrise access to the park. But too many nights in a hotel room, plus riding around in the car all day, was not good for O & M – or for us. We had booked an Airbnb outside Livingston for the remainder of our time in Yellowstone.
our home for the week!
Shepherd’s Nook was a true escape from the world, miles from any sign of civilization. Our home away from home was a cozy haven, equipped with all the essentials, including reliable Wi-Fi and a washer and dryer. The only light that broke the night darkness was the faint glow from Livingston, and the stars were breathtaking!
We had been going nonstop for a solid week and needed time to recharge, so we gave ourselves a day off on Wednesday. We spent the day leisurely, enjoying the view from our apartment. Oscar was enamored with the Richardson’s ground squirrels that played outside our ground-level windows – it was like TV for dogs!
TV for dogs!
On Thursday, we returned to Yellowstone. Our goal was to spot bears, and we ended the day with five separate sightings of black bears and cubs.
black bear cub (cinnamon morph)
But the true magic was something extraordinary. A majestic black wolf sauntered through a field and crossed the road in front of us. TG swiftly drove ahead and turned into the first available pull-out. The wolf emerged over the ridge and posed in the most perfect, postcard-worthy light we could have hoped for.
a postcard-worthy shot!
After hearing of multiple wolf sightings viewed only through a scope or powerful binoculars, seeing one this close was a dream come true. The sheer majesty of the creature, with its sleek, black fur and piercing, yellow eyes, left us in awe.
12-image gif of the wolf crossing the road
Not long after that, a second wolf emerged from the river and crossed the road behind us—two close wolf sightings in as many hours!
a second close wolf sighting in as many hours!
Our Airbnb host, Judson, provided many suggestions for local wildlife safaris and scenic drives. We opted to stay close to home on Friday and Saturday to explore the nearby areas.
family selfie at Shepherd’s Nook
That evening, as if to affirm our decision, a herd of mule deer walked through the yard and down to the creek, a pronghorn appeared over the ridge, and a coyote stealthily hunted for dinner on the hillside across from our window.
coyote hunting for dinner
We spent the two days simply unwinding and immersing ourselves in the tranquility of the area, much of which we could enjoy without leaving the property.
mule deer beside Adair Creek (below our window)
To experience the beauty of Shepherd’s Nook, click here:
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Sunday was our last visit to Yellowstone. We began the day with two back-to-back bear sightings, so we were off to a great start!
black bear (cinnamon morph)
Our drive took us towards Tower Falls, a place where we had previously spotted bears. However, luck wasn’t on our side this morning. Undeterred, we ventured to Lamar Valley, where a delightful surprise awaited us – the mama badger, leisurely sunbathing outside her den!
mama badger
TG wanted to take some panos of the valley with bison grazing, so we moseyed west.
Lamar Valley
We encountered a mama bear and two adorable cubs as we made our way from Tower Junction back towards Mammoth. The scene was chaotic, with several cars and people crowding the area. In a moment of pure pandemonium, the bears crossed the road between the vehicles, then reversed course and retreated down the hill.
a royal FUBAR!
We stayed back, trying to get the best photos we could. Finally, a ranger arrived and brought order to the chaos.
black bear cub crossing the road
We were happy to have one last sighting of a mama bear with cubs, but we also knew we were “done” with Yellowstone on this visit. Neither of us was comfortable with the huge crowds that seemed to have arrived overnight.
black bear mama with two cubs
We spent our last two days near home, enjoying the wildlife around Shepherd’s Nook and preparing for the next stop on our road trip.
mule deer at golden hour
great horned owl (juvi)
As we said goodbye to Montana, we were filled with profound gratitude. Between the Super 8 in Gardiner and the Shepherd’s Nook Airbnb, we spent 11 full days in the Yellowstone area. We dedicated five days to the park, spending an average of five hours per visit. While surrounded by countless bison, pronghorn, and elk, our hearts were set on spotting bears.
bison and red dogs crossing the road in Lamar Valley
And in the end, we were rewarded with 37 grizzly and black bears in 16 unique sightings, with eleven of those being a mama and cubs.
grizzly bear cubs
But the most awe-inspiring moment—surpassing even the bear sightings—was the wolf we were fortunate to encounter on June 6, 2024. It was truly extraordinary, as he passed no more than two car lengths in front of us.
wolf crossing in front of our car
It is a moment we will cherish forever.
To see all the photos from our eleven days in the Yellowstone area click below:
TG:
hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr
JET:
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TG and I both reached a milestone birthday in 2024, a year shaping up to be full of memorable moments. We celebrated my big day by spending a week in Crystal River, FL snorkeling with the manatees.
Three Sisters Springs, Crystal River, FL, January 2024
TG, a lifelong Rolling Stones fan, was over the moon when we learned that the first stop on the Stone’s Hackney Diamonds tour was in Houston, conveniently on our way to New Mexico. We added two nights onto the beginning of our trip and could barely contain our excitement as we purchased tickets for the April 28 concert. Happy Birthday, TG!
AARP Rocks Houston!
It was a great show, with the timeless talent of Mick, Keith, Ronnie, and the band combined with incredible technology. We had a fantastic time, singing along to old favorites and grooving to songs off their new album.
Miss You, Houston, TX 4-28-24
The following morning, we continued our journey west. After two visits to the Bosque del Apache in November, we were eager to experience the unique charm of New Mexico’s desert in the hot summer months with its colorful rattlesnakes, lizards, and toads.
Welcome to New Mexico!
This visit marked our third stay at Casita del Crane’s, Pam’s cozy Airbnb in Lemitar. It has become our home away from home and a perfect base for explorations.
Casita del Cranes
Pam is always interested in our photo safaris and sharing goodies such as fresh greens from her organic garden. These personal touches make our stays here so special.
Pam selling her organic veggies and eggs at a local farmer’s market
Something we’ve always enjoyed about staying at Pam’s is all the nature that greets us right outside our door.
so much nature right outside our door!
A stroll through her garden or a walk on the dirt road alongside the creek is a wildlife adventure in itself. We’ll often see roadrunners scurrying along the railroad tracks — so cliché it’s comical!
a roadrunner clearly up to mischief!
And the rumble of the freight trains that pass by, accompanied by a long, lonesome whistle and clickety-clack of the cars, is charming.
freight train rumbling by
You can view all our photos from our walkabouts at Pam’s here:
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We explored Spring in the Bosque del Apache – a different time of year than previous visits. It was a tranquil place, with none of the mad frenzy we witnessed during the sandhill crane migration in November.
Bosque del Apache, May 2024
While we searched for reptiles,
western zebra-tailed lizard, Bosque del Apache
We also enjoyed all the birds and other wildlife that call this area home.
vermillion flycatcher, Bosque del Apache
We drove to the Valley of Fires, a lava flow covering 125 square miles. From a distance, it looks like black, barren rock, but as you hike the trails, you’ll see many varieties of desert flowers, cacti, and trees.
Mountain tea growing out of the black lava, Valley of Fires
The valley was formed around 5,000 years ago when a volcano erupted, leaving behind a trail of molten lava. It’s a fascinating place, a stark contrast between destruction and new life.
125 square miles of black lava
Thanks to TG’s keen eyes and trusty binocs, we watched as ground squirrels and Harris’s antelope squirrels foraged for breakfast.
Harris’s antelope squirrel (Ammospermophilus harrisii), Valley of Fires
It’s a birdwatcher’s paradise, and we spied ash-throated flycatchers, black-throated sparrows, and western tanagers among other birds.
ash-throated flycatcher, Valley of Fires
Just a week after settling in, we were back on the road for another concert. The Stones were performing in Glendale, AZ on May 7, just a seven-hour drive away. One of TG’s best friends from high school and his brother live in the Phoenix area, so along with Dan, Bill, and their wives, we purchased Stones tickets for a second show in as many weeks.
on our way to Glendale, AZ
After dinner and some quality catch-up time, we piled into our cars and headed over to State Farm Stadium. The atmosphere was electric, with fans of all ages eagerly anticipating the show. And the Rolling Stones did not disappoint.
eagerly waiting for the Stones!
Their performance was off-the-charts, even better than the tour opening in Houston.
“I know it’s only rock & roll but I like it” (Yes that’s me singing along with Mick)
The drive to and from Arizona was beautiful. Our route took us up and over the mountains, with every curve in the road a new, breathtaking view.
our drive through the Arizona mountains
We finished our second week with a lot of rock and roll …
Monkey Man, Glendale, AZ 5-7-24
A lot of rocks …
Valley of Fires
And a lot of lizards …
greater earless lizard, Bosque del Apache
But no rattlesnakes – unless you count the what-we-thought-was-dead snake lying in the middle of the road. By the time we turned around to get a proper ID, it was gone. Either a raptor scooped it up or it slithered off on its own! 😲
On the night of May 10, the Earth was hit by a G5 solar storm, a rare and powerful event that occurs when a large amount of energy is released from the sun’s atmosphere. This was the strongest geomagnetic storm in 21 years, causing the KP index to spike to 9. The internet exploded with photos from as far south as Key Largo, FL, capturing the stunning auroras that were a result of this storm.
Aurora forecast for May 10, 2024
TG woke me at 2:30am. “You’re going to want to come outside,” was all he had to say for me to be up and out the door with my camera and tripod. Visible even to our naked eyes, we were amazed at what we could capture with our lenses.
May 11, 2024, 3:00am
In the hour we stood outside, awe-struck, the sky changed colors from vivid reds to purples & greens to pinks & oranges. It was hard to put away our cameras and go back to bed!
May 11, 2024, 3:30am
We started Week Three with high expectations. We were each going to have a solo adventure, with TG embarking on a trip to Prince Rupert, British Columbia, while I stayed back at Pam’s with Oscar and Maddie.
Oscar spies a roadrunner in Pam’s garden
I dropped TG off at the Albuquerque airport on Monday afternoon. He was due back on Friday after an overnight flight from Vancouver. The three days stretched before me, and I planned to make the most of them.
ABQ Sunport
When I took O & M out later that evening, we stumbled upon a woodhouse’s toad (Anaxyrus woodhousii) sittingin the driveway! These toads are native to the western United States and eat a variety of insects and scorpions—so a welcome visitor to have around the house!
woodhouse’s toad
The following morning, I decided to hike the Canyon National Recreation Trail in the Bosque del Apache. This trail is a 2.2-mile “lollipop” loop through the Chihuahuan Desert, the Solitude Canyon, and a climb to the top of a 200ft mesa.
view from the top of the mesa
I had no doubt I would see birds and lizards
western whiptail lizard
But with snakes proving challenging to find, I started my hike with zero expectations. Little did I know I was in for an astonishing surprise.
As I stepped off the trail for a closer look at something, I found myself face to face with a magnificent western diamondback rattlesnake, basking in a puddle of warm sunshine! The sheer beauty of the moment left me breathless.
can you spot the snake?
After capturing countless photos, I continued my hike. When I returned to the start of the loop, I retraced my steps, hoping to catch another glimpse of my resting beauty. However, she had gracefully moved on. I whispered a silent ‘Thank You‘ to the wilderness and made my way back to the car.
western diamondback rattlesnake, 5-14-24
What an exciting start to my solo week!
The following day, I returned to the Canyon Trail. To my delight, Resting Beauty was still in the same area, nestled under a bush with thick, tangled branches providing a near-perfect camouflage.
western diamondback rattlesnake, 5-15-24
Ater taking a few shots, I moved on, leaving her undisturbed. As I continued my hike, I was thrilled to spot four more different lizards, each one new to me.
Texas spiny lizard
And then, as if to add a touch of whimsy, I came across an adorable desert cottontail, its soft fur blending perfectly with the sandy landscape.
desert cottontail
You can see all the photos from my Canyon Trail hikes here:
hover on photo and then arrow through the set or click to open a new tab in Flickr
On Thursday I woke to a thunderstorm, but by noon the skies had cleared, and the cheerful chirping of birds beckoned me to the nearby Socorro Nature Area, a BLM reserve just three miles from Pam’s.
brown-crested flycatcher, Socorro Nature Area
The sky over the mountains looked ominous, but there was sunshine overhead. So, I ventured out on the one-mile loop to see what I could see.
the mountains to the west, 12:00pm
As I walked along, the air was filled with the calls of many different birds, including a pair of Gambel’s quail. These birds, with their distinctive topknot of black feathers, captivated me on our first visit to New Mexico in 2021. Their call resembles a meowing cat; when alarmed, they gurgle like they’re underwater. On that first visit, I thought they were rare and intriguing. I still find them charming, but they are so common that these days I’m much more selective about when I snap a photo.
Gambel’s quail (male), Socorro Nature Area
I checked the dead logs and scrub for signs of life and was thrilled to spot several lizards. I’ve learned the ID’s of so many lizards on this trip: “A common side-blotched,” I whispered to myself, and later “a checkered whiptail!”
common side-blotched lizard, Socorro Nature Area
You can see all the photos from my Socorro Nature Area hikes here:
hover on photo and then arrow through the set or click to open a new tab in Flickr
That night, TG called while awaiting his flight from Vancouver. He was excited about everything he had seen in Prince Rupert and couldn’t wait to share his experiences with me. And I was just as excited to share my three days with him. Our solo adventure week had been a win-win!
TG on the Prince Rupert Adventure Tours “Inside Passage”
You can read TG’s Prince Rupert blog here (right click on title to open in a new tab):
TG wanted to work on his photos, so on Saturday I returned to the Canyon Trail hoping to spot Resting Beauty – or one of her cousins. There were no snakes that morning, but I was delighted to add another new lizard to my growing list: a long-nosed leopard!
long-nosed leopard lizard
TG and I went back to the Canyon Trail three more times after that, and on two occasions we spied Resting Beauty tucked tightly beneath a thick tangle of branches. She didn’t give us *quite* the photo-op of my first sighting but it was a thrill nonetheless!
western diamondback rattlesnake 5-25-24
Pam and Steve invited us to a BBQ party one afternoon. We wanted to stick close to home, so that morning we headed to the Socorro Nature Area.
TG photographing lizards at the Socorro Nature Area
We spotted several lizards, including two new ones: a desert side-blotched lizard and a Chihuahuan spotted whiptail.
Chihuahuan spotted whiptail lizard
TG stepped towards a rock to photograph yet another lizard when WHOOPS! he almost stepped on a five-foot bull snake, fully stretched out and basking in the morning sun.
WHOOPS! a 5-foot bull snake fully stretched out, basking in the morning sun
I saw him jump out of the way before I saw what made him jump. What a big, beautiful girl she was! As we watched, she slithered up a pile of dirt and into her little hidey-hole.
bull snake
Later that day, we walked next door for the BBQ. Most of Pam and Steve’s friends are musicians, and we were treated to a delightful afternoon of good conversation and the soulful sounds of rock and roll.
Grateful Dead, Tom Petty, John Prine, and their own original songs
One day we couldn’t resist checking out one of the quirkiest roadside attractions you will spy driving around Albuquerque: a giant rattlesnake gliding down the median on a long hill near the airport.
giant rattlesnake selfie!
The snake has spawned many urban legends, but the real story is simple. When the city hired Sites Southwest to landscape the median, they were faced with a challenge. Plants were not an option, as there was no water source. So, they decided upon a sculpture that spoke to the region, and what better way to represent New Mexico than a giant rattlesnake made of rocks?!?
Albuquerque’s giant rattlesnake sculpture
With incredible geological formations, New Mexico’s many wilderness areas allow you to immerse yourself in the tranquility and beauty of nature. San Lorenzo Canyon, a mere six miles from Pam’s, is one of these unique gems.
San Lorenzo Canyon
This natural wonderland contains picturesque sandstone cliffs, mesas, arches, and hoodoos.
hoodoo in San Lorenzo Canyon
It reflects millions of years of Earth’s history – a landscape shaped by the movement of tectonic plates and erosion.
a landscape shaped by the movement of tectonic plates and erosion
The beauty of the place is truly inspiring!
Apache plumes, San Lorenzo Canyon
We dedicated two days to exploring the San Lorenzo Canyon. Our goal was to search for wildlife while capturing the breathtaking landscapes.
TG doing his magic
On our first morning hike, we spied several lizards, colorful desert flowers, beautiful birds, and four antelope jackrabbits that scattered as soon as they caught sight of us.
the antelope jackrabbits scattered as soon as they caught sight of us
We stuck to paths we felt confident to hike. However, there was one climb that I decided to abort midway.
midway up I decided to abort my climb
I feared that what went up might not be able to come down, so I turned around and let TG scramble to the top.
TG made it to the top!
On our second visit, we drove the 5 ½ miles to the canyon’s end. The road dead-ends at a small spring, surprisingly full of cold, somewhat muddy water.
the spring at the end of the San Lorenzo Canyon Road
We hiked around on the rocks, looking for lizards and other wildlife while also shooting the stunning rock formations.
cliff chipmunk
San Lorenzo Canyon
Not intending to rockhound, I found two lovely pieces of sparkling pinky-white quartz!
We got up early one morning to explore the Petroglyph National Monument, just outside of Albuquerque. This national park is home to one of the largest petroglyph sites in North America.
Petroglyph National Monument
There are multiple trails at the park, each of varying length. We chose to hike the Piedras Marcadas Canyon, a 1.8-mile loop. Although the Piedras (rocks) Marcadas (marked) were named by the Spanish settlers who came to this area during the mid-1600s, most of the petroglyphs were made by ancient Pueblo people 400-700 years ago, and to this day have profound cultural and spiritual significance.
ancient lizard petroglyph!
Upon starting our hike, we were delighted to spy a jackrabbit feeding in the early morning light. Later we came across a mother and four baby Harris’s antelope squirrels scampering around on the rocks.
a family of Harris’s antelope squirrels (Ammospermophilus harrisii)
That evening, Pam and Steve invited us to a “Sundowner.” We drove to a remote area to view the ocotillo cacti blooming on the hillsides and enjoyed cheese & crackers while watching the sunset. As the skies grew dark, nighthawks and bats swooped in the air above us.
ocotillo cacti blooming at sunset
It was a wonderful end to our fourth week in New Mexico!
New Mexico sunset selfie
We were under no pressure during our final week. Our count was now up to 14 lizard, one toad, and two snake species—including four sightings of the western diamondback. We revisited many of the trails we had hiked before and began preparing for the next stop on our road trip.
San Lorenzo Canyon
However, New Mexico had one more surprise in store for us. Pam’s sister lives in Polvadera, just a ten-minute drive away. A pallid bat, Antrozous pallidus, had decided to take a nap on the side of her house! Pam drove me over to photograph this lovely little creature, sharing in the excitement of the moment.
pallid bat, Antrozous pallidus
Some might call us crazy for dedicating more than a month to the pursuit of snakes, lizards, and toads. And rest assured, we’re not planning to swap our beloved Oscar and Maddie for a pet python any time soon! But after a lifetime of capturing the wonders of our world underwater and the dozens of birds and mammals we’ve encountered on land, we felt it was time to turn our lenses towards the often-overlooked cold-blooded creatures.
TG capturing “Resty Beauty”
The animals in New Mexico’s desert are uniquely beautiful, and our journey of photographing them has opened our eyes to a whole new world. We hope this blog has sparked a sense of wonder in you, inspiring you to seek out and appreciate the beauty surrounding you, no matter where your journey takes you.
desert spider beetle
To view all of our photos from New Mexico visit our Flickr albums below.
TG:
hover on photo to arrow through the set or click to open a new tab in Flickr
JET:
hover on photo to arrow through the set or click to open a new tab in Flickr
Coming next … “You can observe a lot just by watching.” – Yogi Berra
When we were planning our Westward Ho II road trip, we allocated the month of May to New Mexico. With that in mind, I made plans to take a short embedded solo trip to Prince Rupert, B.C. to join a grizzly bear day tour offered by Prince Rupert Adventure Tours. This trip was a prelude to our upcoming drive to British Columbia, a journey that promised both adventure and discovery.
Prince Rupert Adventure Tours
JET dropped me off at ABQ Sunport on Monday afternoon. I flew to Vancouver through Denver, arriving late that night and checked into a nearby hotel. The next day, I boarded an Air Canada turboprop plane for the 90-minute flight to Prince Rupert, B.C. The mountains were in full view when we left Vancouver but were blanketed by thick, cottonlike clouds as we approached Prince Rupert, a surprisingly bustling city of around 20,000 on British Columbia’s coast, with a robust cargo port, grain, propane, and wood pellet terminals, a cruise ship port and a vast fleet of all sizes of fishing vessels.
Prince Rupert harbor
YPR Airport, essentially a large one-room building with a runway, is located on Digby Island, which requires a 10-minute (school) bus ride, a 20-minute ferry ride to the dock at Prince Rupert, and another 10-minute bus ride to the city center.
selfie from the school bus ferry ride
Once downtown, Prince Rupert is quite walkable, if a little hilly. I arrived at Eagle Bluff B&B, my home for the next two nights, after a brisk 15-minute walk. Blue, the proprietor, had upgraded me to the Harbor Suite, with a private deck and view of the harbor.
Eagle Bluff B&B
I had dinner that evening at the Breakers Pub, followed by a short walk around town before hitting the hay. Note: if you like fish & chips, Prince Rupert is THE place to be. Some of the best fish (halibut) and chips you are likely to find.
Breakers Pub
The following day, Blue provided a sublime breakfast of homemade yogurt, fresh fruit, pancakes, and coffee/juice. Afterwards I headed to Prince Rupert Adventure Tours to check in for my 10AM departure.
Prince Rupert Adventure Tours
Guests board the Inside Passage, a banana-yellow pontoon boat that can comfortably hold 100 passengers and the crew. The vessel is in pristine condition, comfortable, and quite fast, with a top speed of 21 knots. There are multiple inside and outside decks for viewing wildlife and scenery. There is also a well-stocked snack bar.
the Inside Passage pontoon boat
There were only 24 guests on my chosen date, which allowed for plenty of room for photography. However, the spaciousness of the ship would make photography manageable even at capacity. Once everyone was checked in, we embarked on our journey.
on our way to see grizzly bears!
The eventual destination is the Khutzeymateen Inlet, a two-hour trip from Prince Rupert. The scenery is quite breathtaking and quickly becomes wilderness, with little evidence of human life.
Khutzeymateen Inlet
Along the way, we saw sea birds and an occasional humpback whale. We also saw some stellar sea lions on a rock outcropping that quickly slipped into the water as we approached. At the mouth of the inlet, the crew gave operating instructions for our time there: No talking while outside on deck if possible, and then only in a low whisper, walk quietly, no food or drink of any kind outside on deck.
no talking on deck once inside the Inlet
It was not long before we spied our first grizzly bear, a lone male digging for clams on the beach. He was far away, perhaps 150 yards or more, but wonderful to see, nonetheless. The bear looked somewhat thin, evidence that he had only recently emerged from his months-long hibernation. By the fall, he will have fattened up considerably.
our first grizzly bear!
A little farther along, we spied a mother and two-year-old cub named Hot Chocolate and Marshmallow, respectively. They were also quite far away, farther than the first bear. They were aware of our presence but continued to munch on vegetation.
Hot Chocolate with her cub Marshmallow
We eventually passed the Khutzeymateen Lodge, the only evidence of human activity in the inlet. The lodge offers three and four-day stays for up to 10 guests, with multiple opportunities for up-close viewing of the bears. I can only image how quiet – and dark – it must be there at night!
Khutzeymateen Lodge against a backdrop of wilderness
Eventually, the ship reached the end of the inlet, and it was time to start slowly heading back to Prince Rupert. We had not seen any more grizzlies after the mother and cub, so everyone was scanning the banks closely. We saw one last lone male before we reached the mouth of the inlet, along with a couple of humpback whales.
scanning for grizzly bears
The sail back took a slightly different route through what is called the “Work Channel,” a very productive fishing area that humpback whales also frequent in season. The whales work together to force their favorite food source, krill, up to the surface where they open their huge mouths and take in the krill-filled water, then siphon the water through their baleens, a behavior known as bubble-feeding. We lingered in the area to see if the whales would give us a show, but it was not to be.
mural on the side of the boat
As we approached Prince Rupert, a bald eagle came into view trailing the ship. Then another, followed by two more. The captain slowed the boat, and soon there were over twenty beautiful raptors circling the ship. As bald eagles are my favorite subject for bird photography, I was thrilled – I shot several hundred photos in 15 minutes. The eagles eventually disbursed, we continued to Prince Rupert, and good-byes and well-wishes were shared among guests from all over the world.
bald eagles
You can view all the photos from my day with Prince Rupert Adventure Tours here:
hover on photo and then arrow through the set or double-click to open a new tab in Flickr
Still in awe over the eagles, I headed to Dolly’s Fish Market for fish and chips. Several of my fellow tour companions were also there for dinner, and we passed the time revisiting our journey to the Khutzeymateen. It was a nice ending to a great day.
The next morning, I finished packing, stowed my bags, and spent a few hours walking around Prince Rupert. There are many photo-worthy murals around town depicting marine and wildlife in the area.
many beautiful murals around Prince Rupert
You can view my photos from Prince Rupert here:
hover on photo and then arrow through the set or double-click to open a new tab in Flickr
Finally, it was time to walk to the bus station for the ferry. Less than 48 hours after arriving, my adventure was over, and I was on my way back to New Mexico. Having never visited Prince Rupert before, my expectations were uncertain. With it now in my memories, I can’t wait to return next month, this time with JET and the pups.
“The art of travel lies in the willingness to deviate from your plans and embrace spontaneity.” (author unknown)
It is unplanned moments that have shaped some of our most treasured travel memories: a harrowing plane ride through the jungles of Guatemala when a military coup shut down the airport,
Tikal, Guatemala 1989
An unexpected and delightful lunch with Don and Virginia, a charming couple in the tiny Canadian village of Waldron, Saskatchewan.
Virginia & Don, Dec 2022
In February 2022, we spent a month in northern Minnesota exploring the Sax-Zim Bog. The Bog is famous for its winter birds, especially great gray owls, and we had a fantastic time.
great gray owl, Sax-Zim Bog, February 2022
We had so much fun that we added a week in the Bog onto our way home from Canada in January 2023. Although that week wasn’t quite as productive as the year before, we enjoyed our stay in a cozy two-bedroom Airbnb conveniently located in the nearby town of Hibbing.
When we mapped out our travel itinerary for 2024, we planned a week in Mobile, AL for Mardi Gras. But at the last minute, TG noticed that the Airbnb in Hibbing was available for February. We jumped at the chance to revisit the Bog, canceled our Mobile reservation, and eight days after swimming with the manatees in Crystal River, we were on our way north to Minnesota.
on our way north to Minnesota!
TG wrote the following at the end of Day 3 in the Bog:
“We cleared everything off JET’s wish list today. Yesterday was the northern hawk owl.
Northern hawk owl on Hwy 7
Today it was a twofer – a pine marten and an ermine, a critter we had not seen on previous trips because there was too much snow. The pressure is off with a month to go!”
pine marten on Admiral Road
ermine at the SZB Welcome Center
Going forward, we would simply take what the road gave us.
Speaking of which, many were in terrible condition. There was little snow on the ground and there had been multiple freezes/thaws over the winter months. The roads were full of deep ruts and potholes.
take a bumpy 20-second ride on Kolu Road!
Ditches, usually full of snow this time of year, were empty, revealing just how deep they were.
the ditch on the Arkola Road curve in 2022 and 2024
So, we limited ourselves to the best roads and were rewarded with a close-up photo op of the most magnificent snowy owl we had ever seen on our fifth full day in the Bog.
snowy owl on Hwy 7
Wow! A pine marten,
pine marten on Admiral Road
An ermine, daily sightings of the northern hawk and snowy owl
ermine at the SZB Welcome Center
Northern hawk owl in the trees on Hwy 7
snowy owl taking off from a treetop on Hwy 7
And several common winter birds … we finished our first week thrilled with all that we had been able to see.
Canada jay on Admiral Road
We started week two with a new wish list: a snowshoe hare, a great gray owl, and a barred owl. Someone recommended a likely spot for snowshoes, so we headed in that direction after a quick breakfast at Wilbert Café.
breakfast at Wilbert Café
We were greeted with a cacophony of barking dogs as soon as we got out of the car. “What the heck?” we asked each other. Although we saw plenty of tracks, the bunnies proved elusive, so finally I told TG “I’m walking up the hill to see what all that barking is about.”
snowshoe hare tracks
I had barely reached the edge of the property when a woman came running out, motioning me to move to the opposite side of the road. “They’re coming, they’re coming,” she cried. And just then, a pack of 15 Siberian huskies came around the corner, running at full speed in front of an ATV. Mush! Mush!
Mush! Mush!
The woman told us to hang around if we wanted more photos, as they would be back soon, so TG waited at the end of the driveway while she and I searched for bunny tracks in the snow.
back home!
The road did not give us a snowshoe hare that day, but we did spend a wonderful morning with Tim and Amy, chatting about their huskies, dog racing in Minnesota, and the lack of snow this year.
Tim, Amy, me, and the pupstired and happy dogs eating snow
The next day, we searched for a snowshoe again, but instead, the road gave us a beautiful little red fox, white-tailed deer peacefully grazing in a golden field,
deer on Norway Ridge Road
And the snowy owl in a gnarly old tree against a dramatic sky.
snowy owl against a very dramatic sky
We switched gears on Monday to run an errand in a nearby town and were rewarded with four bald eagles on the drive, one flying directly over our car.
bald eagle on Hwy 169
Later that afternoon, we spent a couple of hours photographing the TTBs (tiny twitchy birds) that visit Mary Lou’s.
red-breasted nuthatch at Mary Lou’s
Mary Lou is a resident of the Bog and has turned her yard into a giant bird feeder.
Mary Lou’s yard
She welcomes birders to watch – and photograph – all the birds that visit the multiple feeding stations she’s staged around her property, much to the chagrin of the neighbor across the street.
“much to the chagrin of the neighbor across the street”
And then, just before we drove home that evening, we found our snowshoe hare.
snowshoe hare on Norway Ridge Road
The next day, we had a minor car issue, and we weren’t sure we’d make it to the Bog. But the good folks at O’Reilly Auto Parts had us ready to go in no time. We spent a few minutes with the snowy before heading to Admiral Road, where someone had spied a great gray owl on the prior evening.
snowy owl at the very top of the tree (note lack of snow)
We were almost there when the ping came through on the Telegram App: “GGOW at Admiral Road feeders.” We joined a caravan of cars and along with a group of quiet and respectful observers,
a group of very quiet and respectful observers
We were lucky enough to spy him just after sunset.
great gray owl at the top of a small pine tree on Admiral Road
We had to push our cameras to the limit. But considering how rare great gray sightings were this year and how dark it was when we saw this beauty, we were both thrilled with what we captured.
great gray owl around 6pm on Admiral Road
As we checked things off our wish list, we began to think about pointing ourselves towards home a little earlier than we had initially planned. The lack of snow meant birds did not have to visit the feeders to find food, and sightings of typically plentiful winter birds were rare. Temps whiplashed from the 50s one day to below zero a few days later!
crazy temperature swings!
Trees were budding … in Northern Minnesota … in February!
pussy willows budding on Admiral Road
And fields usually covered with snow were bare.
no snow! (Zim Road)
This gave us plenty of sightings of rough-legged hawks and northern harriers, but the great grays did not need to hunt along the roads.
rough-legged hawk in flight
It took a lot of early morning and dusk drives to find our barred owl. But finally, on February 29, TG spied one sitting quietly in a tree on the side of the road. We had just enough time to snap a few pics before she disappeared into the woods. Week Two wish list complete!
barred owl on Arkola Road
Sometimes, when you least expect it, a critter will capture your heart, and you can’t shake the desire to get a photo. That happened with the mink. Before this trip, I didn’t even know I wanted a mink – but after seeing a little cinnamon-colored butt disappear into a creek one day, I was obsessed.
I longed to photograph a mink!
We identified a few likely spots and staked out the locations, hoping to catch a glimpse of one long enough to snap a photo.
a potential mink spot
We spied plenty of muskrats on our stakeouts,
muskrat on Stone Lake Road
We even got a pair of beautiful trumpeter swans.
trumpeter swans on Stone Lake
And one morning while waiting we struck up a conversation with Travis, an 84-year-old resident of Stone Lake. After chatting for a bit, TG casually asked him about his license plate: FTL 1.
What does “FTL 1” stand for?
A retired commercial truck driver, Travis told us that in 2014 he was given a ticket for going eleven miles over the limit. The police officer assured him it would not go on his CD license, but it did. Travis was so angry he purchased FTL plates for all his vehicles. “F—k The Law!” he said with enthusiasm.
Travis and TG
In the end, after hours of watching and waiting, not only did we get our mink, but she gifted us with almost a full hour of playful running alongside the creek.
mink on Stone Lake Road
As TG has said, “If you allow yourself enough time, the Bog delivers, even in crazy, non-winter weather.” We compiled the following list of all the birds and animals we identified during our three-week stay.
SZB sightings 2/10-3/4/24
One Saturday, we met up with TG’s grade school friend, Jenny, and her partner, Dick.
Jenny & Dick, TG & me
It was a fun lunch, and afterward, we decided to do a quick run out to the Bog. Once again, we were rewarded with a great gray owl! He was hiding behind a web of branches, but let’s face it, any great gray owl sightingis GREAT!!
hiding behind a web of branches in Indian Pipe Bog
TG wrote the following about this encounter:
On Saturday 2/24/2024, we received notification of a great gray owl at Indian Pipe Bog off Arkola Road. We made our way there to find many cars parked near the trailhead.
Indian Pipe Trailhead
This bumpy, undulating, and mogul-filled trail is a prime example of “unmaintained.” It requires constant attention to where you are stepping.
the bumpy, undulating, mogul-filled trail
The cool, dark forest canopy protects the ice pads that form in the trail pockets from melting, making for treacherous footing.
Indian Pipe Bog
About a 10-minute walk into the bog, we encountered a sizeable group of people trying to see the owl. I say “trying” because this is hardly the “fish-in-a-barrel” sighting that the snowy owl has been providing of late. This majestic owl was sitting at eye level in a thickly branched tree about 60 meters from the group.
great gray owl hiding in plain sight
To the naked eye, it was nothing more than a dark blob. My 15-year-old camera struggled to focus automatically, wanting to highlight the myriad of branches rather than Señor Owl.
great gray owl at Indian Pipe Bog
I walked back to the trailhead, wondering how folks found the owl in the first place. We returned the next day because I wanted to take landscape panos of the bog interior. We went back to where the owl had been 24 hours earlier, but alas, the needle was safely hidden in the haystack.
Despite all that we had seen and photographed thus far, the vibe of the Bog had changed. We saw more bad manners from photographers than ever before. And worst of all, the disrespect for wildlife and private property was shocking.
huge crowd standing in a driveway at the northern hawk owl on Hwy 7
We stayed away from the crowds to avoid contributing to– or being associated with – particularly egregious behavior. But it pained us to witness it in a place where we had so many fond memories.
cars parked on both sides of a two-lane road, on a curve!
Case in point: For two weeks, the snowy owl stayed in an approximately two square mile area, and photographers traveled from near and far, stalking him from dawn to dusk.
As we transited around the Bog, TG & I drove by his roosting spots on Hwy 7 multiple times, marveling at how close folks were crowding the bird and how tolerant he seemed to be of all the attention.
the snowy appeared tolerant of all the attention
On February 26, 2024, the following message appeared on the Telegram:
Feb 26, 2024 message on the SZB Telegram
No one can say for certain how this happened, but one cannot help but wonder if the absolute fervor his presence generated wasn’t partially responsible for his demise.
TG and I had visited Snowy four times before the crowds became too much for us. You can view our photos here:
hover on photo and then arrow through the set
It felt like nearly everyone left the Bog after Snowy’s death. It was a quieter, gentler place, and the few remaining visitors were more respectful of each other and the wildlife. We enjoyed some marvelous sightings that week, including sharing our last great gray owl with only six other cars. But by then, we had already decided to head home early.
Admiral Road around midday, 3/1/24
So, fellow travelers, embrace deviations. Let go of rigid itineraries and make time for spontaneity. Do we regret changing our plans from Mobile, Alabama to Northern Minnesota? Not for a second! In this detour, we photographed almost everything we had hoped to, including four different species of owls.
barred owl on Dead Man’s Creek trail
great gray owl on Arkola Road
We met many interesting people along the way — people like Tim & Amy and their pack of Siberian huskies, Travis, and Marshall, who travels all over the USA photographing “paws and claws” for his art shows back in Washington State.
Marshall, TG, and me
And we learned, perhaps more than ever, to take what the road gives us: on one of our many mink stakeouts, we saw a pile of thick, plush fur lying on the ice. Not wanting to get too close, we knew it was otters and watched as the pile separated into three animals before disappearing into the tall grass.
otters on Stone Lake Road
It wasn’t until we got home and could look at our computer screens that we were able to discern that we had come upon a mama nursing her two babies.
otter family on Stone Lake Road
Will there be a fourth visit to the Bog? Only time will tell, as there are many other places we still want to travel. But whether we return or not, we have stories, laughter, and moments to last a lifetime.
a Canada goose, trumpeter swan, and mink in the creek off Stone Lake Road
You can view all of our photos from the Bog here:
TG:
hover on photo to arrow through the set or double-click to open a new tab in Flickr
JET:
hover on photo to arrow through the set or double-click to open a new tab in Flickr
Located along Florida’s west coast, Crystal River is one of the few places you can swim with manatees. The area’s springs flow at a constant 72 degrees, and manatees move into these warm(er) waters during the winter months when the temperatures drop in the Gulf of Mexico.
For the last two decades, I made Crystal River an annual pilgrimage from our home in Broward County, usually on or around my January birthday. I love swimming with these gentle giants as there are few wildlife encounters more heart-warming (to me) than coming face to face with a manatee.
Three Sisters Springs, January 2024
The town of Crystal River has made an industry out of it — there are several tour operators and boat or kayak rentals available. You can also launch yourself from any number of places around Kings Bay.
Plenty of tour boat & kayak rental companies to choose from
This activity is highly regulated and, no matter how you go, you are observed by FWC volunteers who make sure you are following “proper manatee etiquette.”
FWC volunteers monitor your every move!
Since we’ve moved to Southern Alabama, my trips to Crystal River will be less frequent. It’s a 7-hour drive, which means quick, overnight trips are no longer practical. But since 2024 was a milestone birthday for me, we rented a pet-friendly Airbnb for a full week.
Orchard Street Retreat
We also invited two friends from South Florida to join us for part of our stay.
my So FL friends!
Allison and Greg’s place was perfect — beautifully furnished with everything we could need, comfortable, and conveniently located in a quiet neighborhood. You can find their listing here:
I’ve tried a few of the manatee tour operators over the years but have had the most fun D-I-Y’ing it. So, for the last few visits I’ve rented a kayak from the Crystal River Kayak & Dive Center, just a ten-minute paddle from the famous Three Sisters Springs.
Crystal River Kayak & Dive Center
It is located on one of the many canals, which avoids the long, sometimes arduous Kings Bay crossing. The best thing about going on your own is that you are on no timetable. The tour boats come and go, and in between it’s just you, a few other paddlers, and the manatees for as long as you can stand the 72-degree water!
We spied this softshell turtle right outside the kayak company’s dock
Within the first five minutes of the first day, I was “accosted” by a manatee giving me multiple hugs and nose bumps. I could not have asked for a better start to my manatee-rific birthday week!
this little sweetheart would not leave us alone
The next day, in crystal-clear, blue water, we spent over three hours with a friendly young manatee who did not seem to mind our presence in the least.
we spent three hours with this friendly manatee
I was even able to practice a few over/under shots
And on our last day we were delighted to find the entrance to Three Sisters Springs open. For years, Florida Fish & Wildlife has kept the area closed during the winter to protect the hundreds of manatees who gather in the springs for warmth and rest.
we were delighted to find the entrance to Three Sisters Spring open!
But the weather was warm enough that most of the manatees had dispersed into Kings Bay. We were treated to a mother and young calf who swam by us twice.
this mama and baby swam by us two different times
And two different adults who also came close enough that I had to back out of the way. It was truly magical, and I was so overcome with emotion that I stopped for a few moments to just take in what we had experienced.
I silently called across the spring “come to me” and you can see what happened next!
Since TG is not a fan of swimming in 72-degree water (and would not be caught dead in a wetsuit) he stayed home with Oscar and Maddie and cooked us delicious dinners.
TG (with Oscar assisting) cooked us delicious dinners
As we celebrated my birthday, I was grateful to be alive, surrounded by the love of friends both near and far, and humbled by the beauty of our natural world.
a very Happy Birthday, surrounded by the love of family and friends!
You can view my manatee photos here:
hover on photo and then click to arrow through the set
Fully manatee-saturated, on Sunday we visited Homosassa State Park. It’s a quirky little place, more of a wildlife refuge than a state park. All the animals are native to Florida and for whatever reason cannot be released back into the wild.
the underwater “fishbowl” at Homosassa State Park
All the animals that is, except for Lu, the oldest hippopotamus in captivity. Lu (short for “Lucifer”) is a 6,000-pound retired movie star and was a resident of the park long before the state took it over. The town of Homosassa put up such a fuss over the possible relocation of Lu that in 1991, the then governor of FL gave him special Florida citizenship, allowing him to stay in the state park even though he is a non-native species.
Lu exits the water
I was delighted to find out that Lu and I share the same birthday – another surprise!
Happy Birthday to Lu and me!
You can view our Homosassa State Park photos here:
hover on photo and then click to arrow through the set
After a fun visit to the park, we drove over to Monkey Island, a bizarre little “Old Florida” attraction for a chance to see monkeys.
we hoped to see the monkeys on Monkey Island
Alas, no monkeys to be seen on this chilly day but we did enjoy a delicious lunch at the Florida Cracker Monkey Bar before heading back to Orchard Street Retreat.
A fun day in spite of no monkeys!
TG and I had the final two days to ourselves, so on Monday we booked a 90-minute glass-bottom boat ride on the Silver River at Silver Springs State Park, about an hour east of Crystal River.
Silver River glass-bottom boat ride at Silver Springs State Park
The ride was about what one would expect from an inexpensive park tour. But it turned into a beautiful sunny day, and we were treated to a lovely ride along the Silver River, where we saw manatees, plenty of gators, lots of Florida birds,
one of many alligators we saw along the way
And … monkeys!
the park estimates there are about 500 wild macaque monkeys living in the Ocala area
You can view our Silver Springs photos here:
hover on photo and then click to arrow through the set
Tuesday was our last full day at Orchard Street Retreat. After a nice breakfast at the Biscuit Barn,
egg, avocado, and cheese biscuits at the Biscuit Barn
We did a little souvenir shopping and got ready to head for home early Wednesday morning.
souvenir shopping complete!
It was a perfect birthday week. We had glorious sunny, warm weather. I was surrounded by people that I love and more manatee time than I ever dreamed of. So, hop in the water and swim along with me once more!
In January 2023 we returned home from a 4 ½ month, 23,000-mile road trip, covering 27 states and two Canadian provinces. We had such a great time that before we even pulled into our driveway we were saying “let’s do this again!”
While on the road, we decided to sell our house in Florida and move to an area with a lower cost of living. So, upon our return, we immediately set to work getting the house ready for the market. Much to our surprise, it sold in just 8 days, and we were officially “house-less” by early May.
“Casa Mini” sold in just 8 days!
We booked an Airbnb in Pensacola for three months and began house-hunting in the Panhandle and southern Alabama. By mid-June, we had found something that checked all the boxes: a tiny house sitting on just under an acre of land; a place we could easily button up while on the long road trips we planned to take, but comfy and cozy enough to retire in place once that time came.
Casa-Bama pano
We spent the last six months of 2023 making “Casa-Bama” our own, including planting 37 trees, creating a butterfly garden, and building a 10×10 gazebo on our deck.
building the gazebo!
Dec 23, 2023
By Christmas, our project list was complete, and we were ready to start planning 2024. My friend Jessie gave me a “junk journal” for Christmas and I decided to fill the pages with all the things we’ll do and places we’ll go this year. Included in upcoming “On the Road” blogs you can expect to see pages of the “junk” we’ll collect along the way.
Junk Journal – 2024 preview page
Over the two decades we lived in Florida, we traveled to Crystal River every year to swim with the manatees. We timed this annual pilgrimage around my birthday as nose-bumping with these gentle giants is (for me) a heart-warming treat. My 65th birthday is in January, so it’s only appropriate that our first trip of 2024 is a week-long stay in Crystal River, where we’ll be joined by some dear friends from Florida.
bumping noses with a manatee in Crystal River, FL
Since moving to Southern Alabama, we’ve learned that Mobile, not New Orleans, is the birthplace of Mardi Gras. There are krewes dating back to the 1800’s! We’ve booked an Airbnb close to the festivities in hopes of capturing a little of the excitement of the season. As an added bonus, the Airbnb is called “The Owl’s Nest” because there is an active barred owl’s nest on the property!
a barred owl in our backyard in Okeechobee
April puts us back in Pensacola for a short stay: a chance to catch the Blue Angels practice plus an oil change and new tires for the Jetta before embarking on Westward Ho II.
Blue Angels, Pensacola, FL
We’ve always wanted to visit Yellowstone in the spring when the park is full of babies, including bear cubs. So, we’re spending a month at Domenick’s condo in Big Sky, Montana, located approximately 50 minutes from the park’s west entrance.
September 2022
But the timing is perfect for a brief detour through Houston to catch the opening night of the Rolling Stones Hackney Diamonds Tour. Which, if you didn’t already know, is sponsored by AARP!
we’ll be there!
Once we leave Domenick’s we’re toying with a few nights outside of Grand Teton National Park on our way to Lemitar, New Mexico. We’ve been to Pam’s casita twice before but always in the cold, winter months. Summer is the time to see the beautiful snakes, lizards, and toads that inhabit the desert and our buddy, Bob, at the Rattlesnake Museum in Albuquerque has promised to take us out for a day.
“the most dangerous museum in the world”
We’ll return home in enough time to spend most of the summer at Casa-Bama and give us a chance to enjoy the warm, emerald waters of the Gulf of Mexico.
Navarre Fishing Pier, Navarre, FL
But come October we are on the road again. All reports indicate that 2024 will be a banner year for the aurora borealis. Solar activity has picked up and it appears will peak in the next 12-15 months. Although seeing the northern lights in Canora over Christmas last year was a thrill, we both long to see and photograph more of the beautiful Lady dancing. We’ve booked two months at an Airbnb in Ninga, Manitoba.
Canora, Saskatchewan, Dec 2022
During that time, we’ve also embedded two flights up to Churchill. Polar bears in the wild are high on our “Before I Die” bucket lists but traveling with two pups complicates the logistics. So, we’ve booked two consecutive five-night/six-day “Lords of the Arctic” learning vacations at the Churchill Northern Studies Center. A chance to see polar bears right outside our window, tundra buggy rides through the WMA, lectures every evening, dogsledding, and a 45-minute helicopter ride!
Churchill Northern Studies Center Welcome package
Finally, we’re heading back to Hibbing, Minnesota for one more visit to the Sax-Zim Bog and the great gray owls. Quite honestly, we’re getting too old for these wintry weather destinations and want to get them in while we still have the fortitude to do so!
one more chance to see the Great Gray Owls!
Before we left on Westward Ho I back in September 2022, I wrote “Buckle your seatbelts, you’re in for quite the ride.”
we’ve lost count of the number of hotels!
We’ll still fine-tuning some of the details, but as we turn our calendars to 2024, I’ll say it again “Buckle your seatbelts, you’re in for quite the ride!”
Happy New Year and be sure to follow along with us in 2024!
We are planning a permanent move to South America sometime in the next 12-15 months. Over the past ten years we’ve traveled to Peru twice and to Ecuador more than a dozen times. But recently Colombia has risen to the top as a place to consider, in particular the city of Medellin.
As luck would have it, I connected with a classmate of my older brother who moved to Medellin about five years ago. Janet proved to be of invaluable help. She put us in touch with Angie, a professional driver who knows the Medellin metro area better than anyone. TG had already spent countless hours researching potential neighborhoods, and between them they put together an itinerary that covered as much ground as possible in our six-day visit.
Medellin valley
Sunday: Running on
Fumes
Our flight left FLL at 7am, and we are a two-hour drive from the airport. That meant we were up at 1:30am for the drive from Okeechobee. After an uneventful flight, Janet and Angie met us at the airport and we took off running.
That afternoon we had planned to explore the suburbs closest to the international airport. First stop, the delightful little finca town of El Tablazo. A “finca” is a small farm and the surrounding area was indeed picturesque and pastoral. From there we drove through Rionegro, Zona Franca, and San Antonio Pereria. The townhouses and parks were charming with lots of open, green spaces.
We were already beginning to fall in love with Colombia. After a quick lunch at a local chain “Crepes and Waffles” (quinoa and kale salad!), we headed towards Medellin via the suburb of Guarne. We felt it was a bit crowded for our taste but did manage to spy one interesting little apartment: a 3 BR, 2 bath for one million pesos per month. (about $310)
Angie inquires about the rent
By now it was getting close to 4pm and we were fading fast. As Angie drove into the city, we got our first glimpse of Medellin. With a population of about 2.5 million, it sprawls through a narrow valley surrounded by mountains. The view from the road is spectacular.
our first glimpse of Medellin from the road above the city
Janet had recommended the Hotel Asturias in the upscale neighborhood of Laureles. It is located on a quiet side street, close to shops and restaurants, and also near her apartment.
Hotel Asturias
Our room was tiny but comfortable and extremely quiet.
our small but comfortable room
A full breakfast with plenty of fresh Colombian coffee is included in the nightly rate.
full breakfast buffet
Monday: Old Friends/New Friends
Angie picked us up at the hotel promptly at 8am and drove us
to Janet and John’s apartment. It is a
beautiful 4 bedroom on the 8th floor, with gorgeous views from every
window.
the view from Janet’s kitchen
There is also a rooftop terrace with 360 views of the city.
the view from the rooftop terrace
Then it was off on a whirlwind tour of the neighborhoods. We covered Belen, which sits against a hillside park called Tres Cruces, or Three Crosses. This is a popular hiking spot for folks in the city with many tall high-rise buildings. After driving around some, we stopped in a “Home Center,” which is a bit like a Home Depot and Bed, Bath & Beyond all under one big roof.
We priced everything from coffee pots and dishes …
16-piece dish set on sale for approx $65
to refrigerators and washing machines.
stacking washer/dryer approx $1,100.00
After lunch in the vibrant town of Sabaneta, it was time to visit another new, old friend.
Quinoa, falafel, kale, goat cheese, and avocado salad
Although Janet and I were years apart at school, we bonded instantly. Because of our common background I felt like I had known her forever. Another classmate of my brother’s is also living in Medellin and wanted to meet us. Barb lives in a long-term care facility with a full-time private nurse, and besides meeting Barb, we felt this would be the perfect opportunity to visit such a place without sitting through a sales pitch.
Barb’s long-term care facility
It was beautiful – with none of the “old people/disinfectant” smell you might expect.
swimming pool on the inside terrace
Barb’s room opens onto a tiny garden with hummingbirds flitting about. It was charming. Monthly price for private room and full-time nurse: $4000. Barb smiled when she met me. She said, “your brother was a real hoot!” Yes, he was!
me, Janet, and Barb in her tiny patio garden
We drove through more city neighborhoods and then dropped Janet off at her apartment. We kept going on to Bello, which is in a lower-income and a bit edgier part of town. We came upon literally miles of young people lining the sidewalk on either side, the crowd and noise growing larger the further along we went. Angie finally asked a taxi driver what was going on. “A free Metallica concert!” he said.
what is going on?!?
We kept driving, further out of the city: Las Cabañas, Copacobana, and finally Girardota.
the cathedral in Girardota
Then up and up into the surrounding hillside.
the hillside surrounding Giraradota
We passed a group walking up the hill. Angie said, “that one in the blue shirt is American” and promptly stopped to say hi. Sure enough, Rob is from Utah and lives part-time in his beautiful hillside casa outside of Girardota. He invited us in to see the property – a big 4-bedroom house inside a walled garden with a pool. The view from his upper balcony was spectacular. He offered to rent the house to us for $700 a month. We exchanged emails and promised to keep in touch.
Rob’s view
By now it was almost dark, and we hit rush-hour traffic
heading back into the city. We were too
tired to go out – we noshed on fruit and cheese from the local grocery store
before calling it a night.
rush hour in Medellin … the motorcycles are insane!
After two days we wrote down some of our first impressions
of Medellin:
Friendly
Welcoming
Clean
Well-maintained
streets with very little litter
Very “First
World”
Corn (in
everything)
Excellent
coffee
Hilly
Confusing
streets with little signage – easy to get lost if you don’t know where you’re
going
Mostly beautiful but with a few dodgy parts
Beautiful
women who are very proud of their long hair
Tuesday: Flowers,
Wood, and Waterfalls
The plan today was to drive south and east out of the city into the flower region.
on our way to La Ceja
This area sits at a higher altitude than Medellin and the air was much cooler as we drove up the mountain.
on the road to El Retiro
We passed through the towns of Las Palmas and El Retiro, both of which are notable for their woodworking.
the quaint, charming streets of El Retiro
Shop after shop lined each side of the road as we wound our way towards La Ceja, with many this time of year selling wooden Christmas trees and other holiday decorations.
one of many woodworking shops alongside the road
On the way we stopped for a quick photo-op at a beautiful waterfall, Tequendamita Falls.
Tequendamita Falls, El Retiro
The greenhouses in La Ceja spread out across the valley. The town itself sits surrounded by mountains on all sides. It felt very quiet and peaceful – possibly made more so by the numerous seminaries and convents scattered throughout the area.
La Ceja greenhouses (courtesy of Google Earth – it was too foggy to see anything the day we were there!)
We wanted a typical Colombian lunch so on our way back we stopped at Kioskos for patacones and “Frijoles Triple Ah” (Triple AAA): beans with arroz (rice), avocado, and arepa.
a traditional Colombian meal at Kioskos
Angie taught us the proper way to eat the small, dry cornmeal cakes: piled high with fresh avocado and a liberal dash of salt!
Then we checked out a house we had found on-line in an
exclusive Rionegro neighborhood. It
turned out to be in a gated community with a no-nonsense guard. Angie disappeared for a few minutes and came
back smiling with a set of keys. We were
able to go inside and see how much house you can rent for 3.9 million pesos a
month (about $1200).
this is what $1200 a month in Rionegro can get you
Dinner that night was at a Peruvian restaurant very close to our hotel. Maybe it was because we’ve been off rice and potatoes for so long, but dinner never tasted so good!
Peruvian potatoes to die for!
Wednesday: To Market to Market
Today was our first free day and we planned to spend it comparison shopping at the grocery stores and market. While I enjoyed a cup of coffee and reminisced with Janet, Andy took our regular weekly shopping list to the store and priced everything – apples to apples (or should we say papaya to papaya). We found, for the most part, that prices are far below what we would pay Stateside for the same items.
guanabana (soursop)
After my visit with Janet we walked to the local produce market. Here the fruits and vegetables are even cheaper as you are buying directly from the farmers.
fresh produce at the market
We searched for kale with no luck. We didn’t know the Spanish word, and no one could understand what we wanted. Finally, one of the vendors asked another shopper who could speak English. She had no idea but typed it into Google Translate. The translation came back “kah-lay.” Of course.
herb and spice vendor at the market
After the market it was time for lunch. We walked back towards our hotel and stumbled
upon a delightful little place called “The Art of Pizza.” The walls and menu were decorated with
classic masterpieces, except with a pizza twist.
The Art of Pizza
TG’s veggie pizza was indeed a work of art and as a friend said “For $8! How can you go wrong?”
TG’s veggie pizza
Well, apparently you can go very wrong. I made the mistake of insisting on ordering in Spanish. I could read ensalada, aquacate, and queso (salad, avocado, and cheese). As a vegetarian it looked divine. What I failed to translate was the word tocino and the salad came buried in it: BACON! Too embarrassed to order anything else, I nibbled a few bites of TG’s pizza and looked forward to dinner.
my tocino ensalada
We wanted to check out an apartment we had found on-line so after lunch we continued our walk. We found the apartment but then got totally turned around. As soon as we passed the porn shop, we knew we were heading in the wrong direction. Fortunately, Janet had given us a map of the area and we quickly straightened ourselves out. Not, however, before logging 15,000 steps on my Fitbit.
Janet’s map
That night we had arranged to meet Janet and John for dinner. It was a delightful evening getting to know
them both as well as picking their brains regarding their move to Colombia and
their impressions of Medellin.
John, Janet, me and TG
Thursday: The Business of Coffee
Welcome to Fredonia
When we parted ways with Angie on Tuesday, she had given us three options for today: Fredonia, Santa Fe Antioquia, or Barbosa. All three towns are in opposite directions, and we only had time for one. “Research and let me know” she said. We settled on Fredonia, located in the coffee region south and west of Medellin. This turned out to be the best decision we could have made. We were literally on our way to heaven.
the road to Fredonia
The hillsides are lush and green, with coffee plantations scattered about. Mountains grow tall inside the deep valleys and the air smells fresh and sweet.
coffee farms on the hillsides
This time of year, the coffee berries drip bright red against the dark green leaves.
ripening coffee berries
The quaint town of Fredonia sits on a steep hillside with the
ubiquitous cathedral towering over the center square.
the Fredonia cathedral and town square
We stopped in a small shop to purchase some of the locally grown coffee: Café Don Chucho.
Cafe Don Chucho
TG, Angie, and Janet
Francisco Javier (Don Chucho’s son) has the nicest smile you’ll ever see and a warm personality to go along with it.
TG and Francisco Javier
After our coffee his wife escorted us to an upstairs restaurant overlooking the cathedral and square – a place we never would have found on our own.
Francisco Javier and his wife
Angie ordered without a menu: traditional Colombian food similar to what we had at Kiosko’s on Tuesday.
the view from our lunchtime perch
Although Fredonia is at the beginning of the coffee region, we were still in Antioquia, in an area called Sur oeste, or the Southwest. “Here begins the business of the coffee” Angie said.
Fredonia countryside
Friday: The Four Elements of Rap
It was our last full day, and we had covered everything we wanted to see. As much as we loved Fredonia, we realized it was too far from Medellin to seriously consider for our new home. We want to find a quiet place close (but not too close) to the city, a short ride to the airport and where we can walk to the markets and shops.
the cable car above the San Javier metro station
So, we decided to do something touristy that afternoon. We made a reservation with Free City Tours for a tour of comuna 13. Colombia is a country of resilience and no place embodies that quite like comuna 13. Until the late 1990’s, this community was considered The Most dangerous in the world. Around that time, the people took control of their neighborhood and turned it into a place of hope, peace, and beauty.
pano view of comuna 13
The focal point of the tour is the area around the escaleras electricas, the outdoor escalators that provide access to homes in barrios high up on the hills and formerly isolated from the city below.
TG on the escalera electrica
The area is awash with murals and graffiti, while at the top there is a lookout and boardwalk offering beautiful views of the bustling city.
view from the top
We met at the San Javier metro
station and then together took a local bus up the winding hillside to the start
of the tour: the U.V.A., or local
community center. This place, located
next to a new high school, provides art and sports classes for children and
adults. The words on the building’s
exterior represent everything the community reclaimed as their own: things like “honor”, “justice”, and
“respect.”
the exterior wall of the U.V.A.
In order to fully understand the violence and difficulties that have plagued this area and its impressive reformation, it’s best to go with a local guide. Our guide, Alejandro, was born in comuna 13 and his family was forced to flee during the worst of the violence. His uncle and cousin were killed, accused of being part of the “guerrillas” or drug dealers. His eyes glistened with tears as he told us about this difficult time and the transformation of his town.
Alejandro and our group
We started up the hill.
heading up the hill
Alejandro said he had some surprises for us and a short way up he gave us the first: ice cream popsicles.
the ice cream popsicle shop
I tried the avocado and TG had the soursop. We found them both creamy and delicious.
avocado ice cream: creamy and delicious!
ever-present motorcycles even on the steep hills of comuna 13
Up more stairs to a coffee museum
where we were shown the proper way to make Colombian coffee (NEVER add sugar!)
and then were each given a sample cup.
sampling traditional Colombian coffee
After coffee we stopped at the beginning of the six escalator sets for freshly made (and piping hot) empañadas. Still eating, we ducked into another small coffee shop and enjoyed a shot glass of cold coffee-lemonade. It was interesting and refreshing.
Bill Clinton even visited this little coffee shop
While there, we were treated to our third surprise: a short rap concert by two local musicians, who each performed an original song. One of them sang to me; I think he was saying I had a nice smile, but it could also have been that my hair is gray.
comuna 13 rapper
Up more escalators to a lookout
point and our last surprise of the day:
a break-dance performance by some very talented young men.
break-dancers
All along the way, the walls of buildings are covered with murals and graffiti – so many that it’s hard to take it all in!
At the top of the hill, Alejandro stopped to explain we had just experienced the four elements of rap: art, music, poetry, and dance – which is the true spirit of comuna 13. He said “Don’t ever stop dreaming. Let comuna 13 be your inspiration – you can do anything you set your mind to. Live your life every day like it is the last.”
“Live your life every day like it is your last.”
He gave us each a friendship bracelet made with Colombian colors and we said our good-byes.
friendship bracelets
We re-traced our steps back to the bus stop and San Javier metro station where we caught a taxi for our hotel. It was truly a memorable afternoon.
me, Alejandro and a random street kid photo-bomber
On our last night we enjoyed
another traditional Colombian dinner at a nearby restaurant, Mondongo’s. By now we were old pros with the patacones,
arepas, avocado. But a banana?
The grinning waiter explained that bananas go in “everything!” “Add it to your beans, put it on your patacones, anywhere!” he said gesturing across the entire table of food.
Saturday: Home Again Home Again
Saturday morning Angie’s husband, Jorge, took us to the airport via the tunel. At five miles long it is the longest tunnel in Latin America and connects the city to the international airport in about 18 minutes.
the tunel
It was a short, easy drive and we arrived in plenty of time to stop at the duty-free shop and catch our flight back to Fort Lauderdale.
“It’s Colombia, not Columbia”
Medellin ended up being everything we had hoped for and then some. Our research into South America is not yet complete, but it will be hard to find a better place to live. Many thanks to Janet, John, and Angie for making this such an extraordinary week! “Hasta pronto, Medellin.” See you soon.
On The Road with Tall Guy & JET 