Embrace the Cold, Live the Adventure!

In 2022, 23, and 24, we traveled to Northern Minnesota’s Sax Zim Bog in the middle of winter to photograph owls. We always had a magical time and were fortunate to see everything from great grays hunting in the snow to a playful mink who seemed to enjoy posing for us as much as we enjoyed photographing her.

With Uganda already on our 2025 travel schedule, we were unable to make a trip north that winter. Unfortunate timing for us, as it was an “irruption year,” a rare event that occurs when there is a sudden increase in the population of certain owl species, including great grays.

SZB Bird & Wildlife Report, February 17, 2025

We hoped for the best in 2026, but by mid-January, it was clear that this winter was nothing like the last. Sightings of any owls were scarce, and great grays were non-existent.

It didn’t make sense for us to travel all that way only to be disappointed. We felt that by going further north, we might have better luck with our wildlife sightings, so TG found an affordable Airbnb in the small town of Ninga, Manitoba.

Bethany’s Country Corner Stay was a charming duplex and perfectly suited our needs.

You can find her listing here:

Country Corner Stay – Apartments for Rent in Turtle Mountain, Manitoba, Canada – Airbnb

Ninga was very cold!

The forecast called for warmer temps in the coming weeks, so on our first full day, we made a quick grocery run to Brandon and then stayed close to home. Still, on that first drive we saw a red fox running across a snowy field, several white-tailed deer, flocks of snow buntings, a magpie, and, to our delight, a snowy owl. The area seemed promising! We also took a few walks around the tiny village of Ninga:  population 45.

We quickly settled into a routine. Every morning, we woke early and planned our photo safaris. Since we were in snowy owl country, we were confident we’d have good luck no matter which road we took. Over the four weeks, we saw 28 snowy owls.

As a local said, “This is wheat country, and where there is wheat, there are rodents. And where there are rodents, there are owls!”

While searching for owls, we also hoped to photograph other prairie birds such as gray partridges, snow buntings, and grouse.

gray partridge

We wanted to get close-up photos of the red foxes we saw running through the fields,

red fox at dusk

And maybe even spot a moose or two.

moose cow & calf at sunrise (with a tip of the hat to Bullwinkle J. Moose)

The cold weather meant we stuck to driving safaris. Even though we planned our routes each day,

We often ended up turning onto side roads. That was part of the fun and led to some unexpected adventures!

Based on eBird sightings, we had reliable intel of a great horned owl on a nest in Winnipeg, about a three-hour drive from Ninga. I wanted to check out the Via Rail train station anyway, so we made a day trip out of it.

We didn’t have any luck finding the GHO that day, even with help from a friendly local named Ray—“as in Ray of Sunshine.” But we did hike over 10,000 steps, which felt great after long days of sitting in the car. Our other sightings made up for it: lots of beautiful birds in the park, and on our drive, a cooperative red fox, five coyotes, big herds of white-tailed deer, and four snowy owls!

Two weeks later, we learned that the GHO owlets had hatched. With clear directions this time, we drove back to Winnipeg and were delighted to find mama and her two babies in the nest, while papa kept watch from a nearby tree.

And, on our drive, we spotted two more snowys. Altogether, it was a six owl day!

female snowy owl on a power pole

We were almost home when it began to snow. Even though we needed to keep moving, a beautiful rough-legged hawk landed on a pole right in front of us, so we stopped to take a few photos.

rough-legged hawk in snow flurries

Almost daily, a barred owl was listed on E-bird at a park about two hours away. After two failed attempts to locate her, we had given up, unsure if another search was worth it. One night TG received a message from a fellow bird-lover with a map, GPS coordinates, and a recent photo. Armed with that intel, we found her, and she certainly was worth the effort!

Everywhere we went, we were asked if we had seen any elk. “Not yet,” we’d reply. On our drive home that afternoon, we finally saw a large herd standing in a snowy field.

elk herd

We had heard about a screech owl at a park in Winnipeg but weren’t sure we’d be able to make a third trip before heading home. However, a beautiful Monday changed our minds.

another beautiful sunrise drive to Winnipeg

Since we were already in the area, we also decided to check in on the great horned family and say goodbye to the barred owl. On our drives to and from Winnipeg, we spotted four more snowys—three males and a female.

The screech owl was not at home in her tree, but it was still a three-species, nine-owl day!

nobody home!

The International Peace Garden was established in 1932 to promote peace, cooperation, and friendship between the United States and Canada. This 3.65-square-mile botanical garden sits on the border between Canada and North Dakota and features 150,000 flowers, fountains, various structures, and an 18-foot floral clock.

In the winter, there isn’t much to see outside, but the Conservatory was a perfect way to stay warm on a cold day.

At their peak in the 1940’s, there were more than 5,500 wooden grain elevators or “prairie sentinels” across Manitoba.

selfie at Cameron – Manitoba’s oldest grain elevator still on its original site (built in 1902)

But as farms switched to steel silos, the wooden elevators became outdated and costly to maintain. Now, with more lost each year to demolition, fires, or natural disasters, these landmarks are quickly disappearing.

Across the province, only 80 classic wood elevators are still standing. Hoping to preserve some of this history before it is gone forever, we planned our wildlife safaris along routes where TG could capture a few of the old elevators that are still left.

We also stopped to photograph interesting landscapes and other structures while out exploring.

Dodd’s Homestead 1889

March 13 turned out to be an extraordinary day. We didn’t have any specific plans – the snowstorm the prior evening had left many roads too edgy for our low-clearance VW Jetta.

It was blowing like a nor-easter the evening of March 12!

By mid-afternoon, the sun was shining, and TG suggested we pick up dinner from The Burning Bale. While driving, we saw a coyote by the side of the road and then two snowy owls in beautiful afternoon light. On the way back, we spotted two more snowys, bringing the total to four for the day!

male snowy owl

But the true magic happened later that night. A G2 storm bumped the KP index up to 6, and around 10 pm, we went outside to check the sky. The stars were bright, and the Northern Lights shimmered above us. Through our cameras, it glowed a brilliant emerald green. It was too cold to stay out for long, but we were grateful for this unexpected gift from Lady Aurora.

Ninga is about 14 miles from Boissevain (pronounced “boyz-eh-vane”) and was our closest option for gas and groceries.

Tommy the Turtle, Boissevain

The Boissevain-Morton Arts Council (BMAC) was founded in 1990 to develop outdoor murals and promote tourism. More than 20 professional murals now tell the town’s story, several of which were visible each time we drove through.

Welcome to Boissevain – Don’t Miss Our Murals!

So, one day we walked around town to photograph them.

We met so many wonderful people during our visit—our gracious Airbnb hosts, Bethany, her mom Alma, and brother Justin were just the first. Richard recommended quiet roads for spotting moose and other wildlife. At The Burning Bale, Chef Germaine welcomed us with warmth and amazing food.

Chef Germaine, The Burning Bale Restaurant

Gord suggested Rt 245 for a scenic drive home.

30 seconds on scenic Rt 245 (sped up 2x)

And when we mentioned our passion for owls, many locals offered helpful information.

TG with a helpful fellow-birder

Manitoba’s license plate reads “Friendly Manitoba”—and we couldn’t agree more!

With everything going on in the world right now, it’s important to take a break from the chaos once in a while. Manitoba’s wide-open spaces, abundant wildlife, and welcoming community helped us stay grounded and reminded us to look for peace, no matter what life brings.

Aurora over Ninga, March 13, 2026

To view all our photos from our month in Manitoba, click on the Flickr links below:

TG:

grey partridge-3308-DeNoiseAI-standard-SharpenAI-Standard
arrow through set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr

JET:

Snowy Owl (Bubo scandiacus)
arrow through set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr

Sax-Zim Bog: Three Times A Charm?

“The art of travel lies in the willingness to deviate from your plans and embrace spontaneity.” (author unknown)

It is unplanned moments that have shaped some of our most treasured travel memories: a harrowing plane ride through the jungles of Guatemala when a military coup shut down the airport,

Tikal, Guatemala 1989

An unexpected and delightful lunch with Don and Virginia, a charming couple in the tiny Canadian village of Waldron, Saskatchewan.

Virginia & Don, Dec 2022

In February 2022, we spent a month in northern Minnesota exploring the Sax-Zim Bog. The Bog is famous for its winter birds, especially great gray owls, and we had a fantastic time.

great gray owl, Sax-Zim Bog, February 2022

We had so much fun that we added a week in the Bog onto our way home from Canada in January 2023. Although that week wasn’t quite as productive as the year before, we enjoyed our stay in a cozy two-bedroom Airbnb conveniently located in the nearby town of Hibbing.

You can find the listing here:

NO FEES Lovely 2 Bedroom Ground Level Downtown – Apartments for Rent in Hibbing, Minnesota, United States – Airbnb

When we mapped out our travel itinerary for 2024, we planned a week in Mobile, AL for Mardi Gras. But at the last minute, TG noticed that the Airbnb in Hibbing was available for February. We jumped at the chance to revisit the Bog, canceled our Mobile reservation, and eight days after swimming with the manatees in Crystal River, we were on our way north to Minnesota.

on our way north to Minnesota!

TG wrote the following at the end of Day 3 in the Bog:

“We cleared everything off JET’s wish list today. Yesterday was the northern hawk owl.

Northern hawk owl on Hwy 7

Today it was a twofer – a pine marten and an ermine, a critter we had not seen on previous trips because there was too much snow. The pressure is off with a month to go!”

pine marten on Admiral Road
ermine at the SZB Welcome Center

Going forward, we would simply take what the road gave us.

Speaking of which, many were in terrible condition. There was little snow on the ground and there had been multiple freezes/thaws over the winter months. The roads were full of deep ruts and potholes.

take a bumpy 20-second ride on Kolu Road!

Ditches, usually full of snow this time of year, were empty, revealing just how deep they were.

the ditch on the Arkola Road curve in 2022 and 2024

So, we limited ourselves to the best roads and were rewarded with a close-up photo op of the most magnificent snowy owl we had ever seen on our fifth full day in the Bog.

snowy owl on Hwy 7

Wow! A pine marten,

pine marten on Admiral Road

An ermine, daily sightings of the northern hawk and snowy owl

ermine at the SZB Welcome Center
Northern hawk owl in the trees on Hwy 7
snowy owl taking off from a treetop on Hwy 7

And several common winter birds … we finished our first week thrilled with all that we had been able to see.

Canada jay on Admiral Road

We started week two with a new wish list:  a snowshoe hare, a great gray owl, and a barred owl. Someone recommended a likely spot for snowshoes, so we headed in that direction after a quick breakfast at Wilbert Café.

breakfast at Wilbert Café

We were greeted with a cacophony of barking dogs as soon as we got out of the car. “What the heck?” we asked each other. Although we saw plenty of tracks, the bunnies proved elusive, so finally I told TG “I’m walking up the hill to see what all that barking is about.” 

snowshoe hare tracks

I had barely reached the edge of the property when a woman came running out, motioning me to move to the opposite side of the road. “They’re coming, they’re coming,” she cried. And just then, a pack of 15 Siberian huskies came around the corner, running at full speed in front of an ATV. Mush! Mush!

Mush! Mush!

The woman told us to hang around if we wanted more photos, as they would be back soon, so TG waited at the end of the driveway while she and I searched for bunny tracks in the snow.

back home!

The road did not give us a snowshoe hare that day, but we did spend a wonderful morning with Tim and Amy, chatting about their huskies, dog racing in Minnesota, and the lack of snow this year.

Tim, Amy, me, and the pups
tired and happy dogs eating snow

The next day, we searched for a snowshoe again, but instead, the road gave us a beautiful little red fox, white-tailed deer peacefully grazing in a golden field,

deer on Norway Ridge Road

And the snowy owl in a gnarly old tree against a dramatic sky.

snowy owl against a very dramatic sky

We switched gears on Monday to run an errand in a nearby town and were rewarded with four bald eagles on the drive, one flying directly over our car.

bald eagle on Hwy 169

Later that afternoon, we spent a couple of hours photographing the TTBs (tiny twitchy birds) that visit Mary Lou’s. 

red-breasted nuthatch at Mary Lou’s

Mary Lou is a resident of the Bog and has turned her yard into a giant bird feeder. 

Mary Lou’s yard

She welcomes birders to watch – and photograph – all the birds that visit the multiple feeding stations she’s staged around her property, much to the chagrin of the neighbor across the street.

“much to the chagrin of the neighbor across the street”

And then, just before we drove home that evening, we found our snowshoe hare. 

snowshoe hare on Norway Ridge Road

The next day, we had a minor car issue, and we weren’t sure we’d make it to the Bog.  But the good folks at O’Reilly Auto Parts had us ready to go in no time. We spent a few minutes with the snowy before heading to Admiral Road, where someone had spied a great gray owl on the prior evening. 

snowy owl at the very top of the tree (note lack of snow)

We were almost there when the ping came through on the Telegram App: “GGOW at Admiral Road feeders.”  We joined a caravan of cars and along with a group of quiet and respectful observers,

a group of very quiet and respectful observers

We were lucky enough to spy him just after sunset.

great gray owl at the top of a small pine tree on Admiral Road

We had to push our cameras to the limit.  But considering how rare great gray sightings were this year and how dark it was when we saw this beauty, we were both thrilled with what we captured.

great gray owl around 6pm on Admiral Road

As we checked things off our wish list, we began to think about pointing ourselves towards home a little earlier than we had initially planned. The lack of snow meant birds did not have to visit the feeders to find food, and sightings of typically plentiful winter birds were rare.  Temps whiplashed from the 50s one day to below zero a few days later!

crazy temperature swings!

Trees were budding … in Northern Minnesota … in February!

pussy willows budding on Admiral Road

And fields usually covered with snow were bare.

no snow! (Zim Road)

This gave us plenty of sightings of rough-legged hawks and northern harriers, but the great grays did not need to hunt along the roads.

rough-legged hawk in flight

It took a lot of early morning and dusk drives to find our barred owl. But finally, on February 29, TG spied one sitting quietly in a tree on the side of the road. We had just enough time to snap a few pics before she disappeared into the woods. Week Two wish list complete!

barred owl on Arkola Road

Sometimes, when you least expect it, a critter will capture your heart, and you can’t shake the desire to get a photo. That happened with the mink. Before this trip, I didn’t even know I wanted a mink – but after seeing a little cinnamon-colored butt disappear into a creek one day, I was obsessed.

I longed to photograph a mink!

We identified a few likely spots and staked out the locations, hoping to catch a glimpse of one long enough to snap a photo.

a potential mink spot

We spied plenty of muskrats on our stakeouts,

muskrat on Stone Lake Road

We even got a pair of beautiful trumpeter swans.

trumpeter swans on Stone Lake

And one morning while waiting we struck up a conversation with Travis, an 84-year-old resident of Stone Lake. After chatting for a bit, TG casually asked him about his license plate: FTL 1.

What does “FTL 1” stand for?

A retired commercial truck driver, Travis told us that in 2014 he was given a ticket for going eleven miles over the limit. The police officer assured him it would not go on his CD license, but it did. Travis was so angry he purchased FTL plates for all his vehicles. “F—k The Law!” he said with enthusiasm.

Travis and TG

In the end, after hours of watching and waiting, not only did we get our mink, but she gifted us with almost a full hour of playful running alongside the creek.

mink on Stone Lake Road

As TG has said, “If you allow yourself enough time, the Bog delivers, even in crazy, non-winter weather.” We compiled the following list of all the birds and animals we identified during our three-week stay.

SZB sightings 2/10-3/4/24

One Saturday, we met up with TG’s grade school friend, Jenny, and her partner, Dick.

Jenny & Dick, TG & me

It was a fun lunch, and afterward, we decided to do a quick run out to the Bog. Once again, we were rewarded with a great gray owl! He was hiding behind a web of branches, but let’s face it, any great gray owl sighting is GREAT!!

hiding behind a web of branches in Indian Pipe Bog

TG wrote the following about this encounter:

On Saturday 2/24/2024, we received notification of a great gray owl at Indian Pipe Bog off Arkola Road. We made our way there to find many cars parked near the trailhead.

Indian Pipe Trailhead

This bumpy, undulating, and mogul-filled trail is a prime example of “unmaintained.” It requires constant attention to where you are stepping.

the bumpy, undulating, mogul-filled trail

The cool, dark forest canopy protects the ice pads that form in the trail pockets from melting, making for treacherous footing.

Indian Pipe Bog

About a 10-minute walk into the bog, we encountered a sizeable group of people trying to see the owl. I say “trying” because this is hardly the “fish-in-a-barrel” sighting that the snowy owl has been providing of late. This majestic owl was sitting at eye level in a thickly branched tree about 60 meters from the group.

great gray owl hiding in plain sight

To the naked eye, it was nothing more than a dark blob. My 15-year-old camera struggled to focus automatically, wanting to highlight the myriad of branches rather than Señor Owl.

great gray owl at Indian Pipe Bog

I walked back to the trailhead, wondering how folks found the owl in the first place. We returned the next day because I wanted to take landscape panos of the bog interior. We went back to where the owl had been 24 hours earlier, but alas, the needle was safely hidden in the haystack.

Despite all that we had seen and photographed thus far, the vibe of the Bog had changed. We saw more bad manners from photographers than ever before. And worst of all, the disrespect for wildlife and private property was shocking.

huge crowd standing in a driveway at the northern hawk owl on Hwy 7

We stayed away from the crowds to avoid contributing to– or being associated with – particularly egregious behavior. But it pained us to witness it in a place where we had so many fond memories.

cars parked on both sides of a two-lane road, on a curve!

Case in point: For two weeks, the snowy owl stayed in an approximately two square mile area, and photographers traveled from near and far, stalking him from dawn to dusk.

As we transited around the Bog, TG & I drove by his roosting spots on Hwy 7 multiple times, marveling at how close folks were crowding the bird and how tolerant he seemed to be of all the attention.

the snowy appeared tolerant of all the attention

On February 26, 2024, the following message appeared on the Telegram:

Feb 26, 2024 message on the SZB Telegram

No one can say for certain how this happened, but one cannot help but wonder if the absolute fervor his presence generated wasn’t partially responsible for his demise.

TG and I had visited Snowy four times before the crowds became too much for us. You can view our photos here:

smowy owl-2646-topaz-denoise-enhance-2.6x
hover on photo and then arrow through the set

It felt like nearly everyone left the Bog after Snowy’s death. It was a quieter, gentler place, and the few remaining visitors were more respectful of each other and the wildlife. We enjoyed some marvelous sightings that week, including sharing our last great gray owl with only six other cars. But by then, we had already decided to head home early.

Admiral Road around midday, 3/1/24

So, fellow travelers, embrace deviations. Let go of rigid itineraries and make time for spontaneity. Do we regret changing our plans from Mobile, Alabama to Northern Minnesota? Not for a second! In this detour, we photographed almost everything we had hoped to, including four different species of owls.

barred owl on Dead Man’s Creek trail
great gray owl on Arkola Road

We met many interesting people along the way — people like Tim & Amy and their pack of Siberian huskies, Travis, and Marshall, who travels all over the USA photographing “paws and claws” for his art shows back in Washington State.

Marshall, TG, and me

And we learned, perhaps more than ever, to take what the road gives us: on one of our many mink stakeouts, we saw a pile of thick, plush fur lying on the ice. Not wanting to get too close, we knew it was otters and watched as the pile separated into three animals before disappearing into the tall grass.

otters on Stone Lake Road

It wasn’t until we got home and could look at our computer screens that we were able to discern that we had come upon a mama nursing her two babies.

otter family on Stone Lake Road

Will there be a fourth visit to the Bog? Only time will tell, as there are many other places we still want to travel. But whether we return or not, we have stories, laughter, and moments to last a lifetime.

a Canada goose, trumpeter swan, and mink in the creek off Stone Lake Road

You can view all of our photos from the Bog here:

TG:

anything for the shot-3331-topaz-denoise
hover on photo to arrow through the set or double-click to open a new tab in Flickr

JET:

Sax-Zim Bog
hover on photo to arrow through the set or double-click to open a new tab in Flickr