It’s Only Rock & Roll (& Rattle) But I Like It

TG and I both reached a milestone birthday in 2024, a year shaping up to be full of memorable moments. We celebrated my big day by spending a week in Crystal River, FL snorkeling with the manatees.

Three Sisters Springs, Crystal River, FL, January 2024

TG, a lifelong Rolling Stones fan, was over the moon when we learned that the first stop on the Stone’s Hackney Diamonds tour was in Houston, conveniently on our way to New Mexico. We added two nights onto the beginning of our trip and could barely contain our excitement as we purchased tickets for the April 28 concert. Happy Birthday, TG!

AARP Rocks Houston!

It was a great show, with the timeless talent of Mick, Keith, Ronnie, and the band combined with incredible technology.  We had a fantastic time, singing along to old favorites and grooving to songs off their new album.

Miss You, Houston, TX 4-28-24

The following morning, we continued our journey west. After two visits to the Bosque del Apache in November, we were eager to experience the unique charm of New Mexico’s desert in the hot summer months with its colorful rattlesnakes, lizards, and toads.

Welcome to New Mexico!

This visit marked our third stay at Casita del Crane’s, Pam’s cozy Airbnb in Lemitar. It has become our home away from home and a perfect base for explorations.

Casita del Cranes

Pam is always interested in our photo safaris and sharing goodies such as fresh greens from her organic garden. These personal touches make our stays here so special.

Pam selling her organic veggies and eggs at a local farmer’s market

You can find her listing here:

https://www.airbnb.com/Casita del Cranes

Something we’ve always enjoyed about staying at Pam’s is all the nature that greets us right outside our door.

so much nature right outside our door!

A stroll through her garden or a walk on the dirt road alongside the creek is a wildlife adventure in itself. We’ll often see roadrunners scurrying along the railroad tracks — so cliché it’s comical!

a roadrunner clearly up to mischief!

And the rumble of the freight trains that pass by, accompanied by a long, lonesome whistle and clickety-clack of the cars, is charming.

freight train rumbling by

You can view all our photos from our walkabouts at Pam’s here:

casita pano 05292024-1
hover on photo and then arrow through the set or click to open a new tab in Flickr

We explored Spring in the Bosque del Apache – a different time of year than previous visits. It was a tranquil place, with none of the mad frenzy we witnessed during the sandhill crane migration in November.

Bosque del Apache, May 2024

While we searched for reptiles,

western zebra-tailed lizard, Bosque del Apache

We also enjoyed all the birds and other wildlife that call this area home.

vermillion flycatcher, Bosque del Apache

We drove to the Valley of Fires, a lava flow covering 125 square miles. From a distance, it looks like black, barren rock, but as you hike the trails, you’ll see many varieties of desert flowers, cacti, and trees.

Mountain tea growing out of the black lava, Valley of Fires

The valley was formed around 5,000 years ago when a volcano erupted, leaving behind a trail of molten lava. It’s a fascinating place, a stark contrast between destruction and new life. 

125 square miles of black lava

Thanks to TG’s keen eyes and trusty binocs, we watched as ground squirrels and Harris’s antelope squirrels foraged for breakfast.

Harris’s antelope squirrel (Ammospermophilus harrisii), Valley of Fires

It’s a birdwatcher’s paradise, and we spied ash-throated flycatchers, black-throated sparrows, and western tanagers among other birds.

ash-throated flycatcher, Valley of Fires

Just a week after settling in, we were back on the road for another concert. The Stones were performing in Glendale, AZ on May 7, just a seven-hour drive away. One of TG’s best friends from high school and his brother live in the Phoenix area, so along with Dan, Bill, and their wives, we purchased Stones tickets for a second show in as many weeks.

on our way to Glendale, AZ

After dinner and some quality catch-up time, we piled into our cars and headed over to State Farm Stadium. The atmosphere was electric, with fans of all ages eagerly anticipating the show. And the Rolling Stones did not disappoint.

eagerly waiting for the Stones!

Their performance was off-the-charts, even better than the tour opening in Houston.

“I know it’s only rock & roll but I like it” (Yes that’s me singing along with Mick)

The drive to and from Arizona was beautiful. Our route took us up and over the mountains, with every curve in the road a new, breathtaking view.

our drive through the Arizona mountains

We finished our second week with a lot of rock and roll …

Monkey Man, Glendale, AZ 5-7-24

A lot of rocks …

Valley of Fires

And a lot of lizards …

greater earless lizard, Bosque del Apache

But no rattlesnakes – unless you count the what-we-thought-was-dead snake lying in the middle of the road. By the time we turned around to get a proper ID, it was gone. Either a raptor scooped it up or it slithered off on its own! 😲

On the night of May 10, the Earth was hit by a G5 solar storm, a rare and powerful event that occurs when a large amount of energy is released from the sun’s atmosphere. This was the strongest geomagnetic storm in 21 years, causing the KP index to spike to 9. The internet exploded with photos from as far south as Key Largo, FL, capturing the stunning auroras that were a result of this storm. 

Aurora forecast for May 10, 2024

TG woke me at 2:30am. “You’re going to want to come outside,” was all he had to say for me to be up and out the door with my camera and tripod. Visible even to our naked eyes, we were amazed at what we could capture with our lenses.

May 11, 2024, 3:00am

In the hour we stood outside, awe-struck, the sky changed colors from vivid reds to purples & greens to pinks & oranges. It was hard to put away our cameras and go back to bed!

May 11, 2024, 3:30am

We started Week Three with high expectations. We were each going to have a solo adventure, with TG embarking on a trip to Prince Rupert, British Columbia, while I stayed back at Pam’s with Oscar and Maddie.

Oscar spies a roadrunner in Pam’s garden

I dropped TG off at the Albuquerque airport on Monday afternoon. He was due back on Friday after an overnight flight from Vancouver. The three days stretched before me, and I planned to make the most of them.

ABQ Sunport

When I took O & M out later that evening, we stumbled upon a woodhouse’s toad (Anaxyrus woodhousii) sitting in the driveway! These toads are native to the western United States and eat a variety of insects and scorpions—so a welcome visitor to have around the house!

woodhouse’s toad

The following morning, I decided to hike the Canyon National Recreation Trail in the Bosque del Apache. This trail is a 2.2-mile “lollipop” loop through the Chihuahuan Desert, the Solitude Canyon, and a climb to the top of a 200ft mesa.

view from the top of the mesa

I had no doubt I would see birds and lizards

western whiptail lizard

But with snakes proving challenging to find, I started my hike with zero expectations. Little did I know I was in for an astonishing surprise.

As I stepped off the trail for a closer look at something, I found myself face to face with a magnificent western diamondback rattlesnake, basking in a puddle of warm sunshine! The sheer beauty of the moment left me breathless. 

can you spot the snake?

After capturing countless photos, I continued my hike. When I returned to the start of the loop, I retraced my steps, hoping to catch another glimpse of my resting beauty. However, she had gracefully moved on. I whispered a silent ‘Thank You‘ to the wilderness and made my way back to the car. 

western diamondback rattlesnake, 5-14-24

What an exciting start to my solo week!

The following day, I returned to the Canyon Trail. To my delight, Resting Beauty was still in the same area, nestled under a bush with thick, tangled branches providing a near-perfect camouflage. 

western diamondback rattlesnake, 5-15-24

Ater taking a few shots, I moved on, leaving her undisturbed. As I continued my hike, I was thrilled to spot four more different lizards, each one new to me.

Texas spiny lizard

And then, as if to add a touch of whimsy, I came across an adorable desert cottontail, its soft fur blending perfectly with the sandy landscape.

desert cottontail

You can see all the photos from my Canyon Trail hikes here:

western diamondback rattlesnake
hover on photo and then arrow through the set or click to open a new tab in Flickr

On Thursday I woke to a thunderstorm, but by noon the skies had cleared, and the cheerful chirping of birds beckoned me to the nearby Socorro Nature Area, a BLM reserve just three miles from Pam’s. 

brown-crested flycatcher, Socorro Nature Area

The sky over the mountains looked ominous, but there was sunshine overhead. So, I ventured out on the one-mile loop to see what I could see.

the mountains to the west, 12:00pm

As I walked along, the air was filled with the calls of many different birds, including a pair of Gambel’s quail. These birds, with their distinctive topknot of black feathers, captivated me on our first visit to New Mexico in 2021. Their call resembles a meowing cat; when alarmed, they gurgle like they’re underwater. On that first visit, I thought they were rare and intriguing. I still find them charming, but they are so common that these days I’m much more selective about when I snap a photo.

Gambel’s quail (male), Socorro Nature Area

I checked the dead logs and scrub for signs of life and was thrilled to spot several lizards. I’ve learned the ID’s of so many lizards on this trip: “A common side-blotched,” I whispered to myself, and later “a checkered whiptail!” 

common side-blotched lizard, Socorro Nature Area

You can see all the photos from my Socorro Nature Area hikes here:

Entrance sign
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That night, TG called while awaiting his flight from Vancouver. He was excited about everything he had seen in Prince Rupert and couldn’t wait to share his experiences with me. And I was just as excited to share my three days with him. Our solo adventure week had been a win-win!

TG on the Prince Rupert Adventure Tours “Inside Passage”

You can read TG’s Prince Rupert blog here (right click on title to open in a new tab):

right click on title to open in a new tab

TG wanted to work on his photos, so on Saturday I returned to the Canyon Trail hoping to spot Resting Beauty – or one of her cousins. There were no snakes that morning, but I was delighted to add another new lizard to my growing list:  a long-nosed leopard!

long-nosed leopard lizard

TG and I went back to the Canyon Trail three more times after that, and on two occasions we spied Resting Beauty tucked tightly beneath a thick tangle of branches. She didn’t give us *quite* the photo-op of my first sighting but it was a thrill nonetheless!

western diamondback rattlesnake 5-25-24

Pam and Steve invited us to a BBQ party one afternoon. We wanted to stick close to home, so that morning we headed to the Socorro Nature Area.

TG photographing lizards at the Socorro Nature Area

We spotted several lizards, including two new ones: a desert side-blotched lizard and a Chihuahuan spotted whiptail. 

Chihuahuan spotted whiptail lizard

TG stepped towards a rock to photograph yet another lizard when WHOOPS! he almost stepped on a five-foot bull snake, fully stretched out and basking in the morning sun. 

WHOOPS! a 5-foot bull snake fully stretched out, basking in the morning sun

I saw him jump out of the way before I saw what made him jump. What a big, beautiful girl she was! As we watched, she slithered up a pile of dirt and into her little hidey-hole.

bull snake

Later that day, we walked next door for the BBQ. Most of Pam and Steve’s friends are musicians, and we were treated to a delightful afternoon of good conversation and the soulful sounds of rock and roll.

Grateful Dead, Tom Petty, John Prine, and their own original songs

One day we couldn’t resist checking out one of the quirkiest roadside attractions you will spy driving around Albuquerque:  a giant rattlesnake gliding down the median on a long hill near the airport.

giant rattlesnake selfie!

The snake has spawned many urban legends, but the real story is simple. When the city hired Sites Southwest to landscape the median, they were faced with a challenge. Plants were not an option, as there was no water source. So, they decided upon a sculpture that spoke to the region, and what better way to represent New Mexico than a giant rattlesnake made of rocks?!?

Albuquerque’s giant rattlesnake sculpture

With incredible geological formations, New Mexico’s many wilderness areas allow you to immerse yourself in the tranquility and beauty of nature. San Lorenzo Canyon, a mere six miles from Pam’s, is one of these unique gems.

San Lorenzo Canyon

This natural wonderland contains picturesque sandstone cliffs, mesas, arches, and hoodoos.

hoodoo in San Lorenzo Canyon

It reflects millions of years of Earth’s history – a landscape shaped by the movement of tectonic plates and erosion.

a landscape shaped by the movement of tectonic plates and erosion

The beauty of the place is truly inspiring!

Apache plumes, San Lorenzo Canyon

We dedicated two days to exploring the San Lorenzo Canyon. Our goal was to search for wildlife while capturing the breathtaking landscapes. 

TG doing his magic

On our first morning hike, we spied several lizards, colorful desert flowers, beautiful birds, and four antelope jackrabbits that scattered as soon as they caught sight of us.

the antelope jackrabbits scattered as soon as they caught sight of us

We stuck to paths we felt confident to hike. However, there was one climb that I decided to abort midway.

midway up I decided to abort my climb

I feared that what went up might not be able to come down, so I turned around and let TG scramble to the top.

TG made it to the top!

On our second visit, we drove the 5 ½ miles to the canyon’s end. The road dead-ends at a small spring, surprisingly full of cold, somewhat muddy water.

the spring at the end of the San Lorenzo Canyon Road

We hiked around on the rocks, looking for lizards and other wildlife while also shooting the stunning rock formations.

cliff chipmunk
San Lorenzo Canyon

Not intending to rockhound, I found two lovely pieces of sparkling pinky-white quartz!

We got up early one morning to explore the Petroglyph National Monument, just outside of Albuquerque. This national park is home to one of the largest petroglyph sites in North America.

Petroglyph National Monument

There are multiple trails at the park, each of varying length. We chose to hike the Piedras Marcadas Canyon, a 1.8-mile loop. Although the Piedras (rocks) Marcadas (marked) were named by the Spanish settlers who came to this area during the mid-1600s, most of the petroglyphs were made by ancient Pueblo people 400-700 years ago, and to this day have profound cultural and spiritual significance.

ancient lizard petroglyph!

Upon starting our hike, we were delighted to spy a jackrabbit feeding in the early morning light. Later we came across a mother and four baby Harris’s antelope squirrels scampering around on the rocks.

a family of Harris’s antelope squirrels (Ammospermophilus harrisii)

That evening, Pam and Steve invited us to a “Sundowner.”  We drove to a remote area to view the ocotillo cacti blooming on the hillsides and enjoyed cheese & crackers while watching the sunset. As the skies grew dark, nighthawks and bats swooped in the air above us.

ocotillo cacti blooming at sunset

It was a wonderful end to our fourth week in New Mexico!

New Mexico sunset selfie

We were under no pressure during our final week. Our count was now up to 14 lizard, one toad, and two snake species—including four sightings of the western diamondback. We revisited many of the trails we had hiked before and began preparing for the next stop on our road trip.

San Lorenzo Canyon

However, New Mexico had one more surprise in store for us. Pam’s sister lives in Polvadera, just a ten-minute drive away. A pallid bat, Antrozous pallidus, had decided to take a nap on the side of her house! Pam drove me over to photograph this lovely little creature, sharing in the excitement of the moment.

pallid bat, Antrozous pallidus

Some might call us crazy for dedicating more than a month to the pursuit of snakes, lizards, and toads. And rest assured, we’re not planning to swap our beloved Oscar and Maddie for a pet python any time soon! But after a lifetime of capturing the wonders of our world underwater and the dozens of birds and mammals we’ve encountered on land, we felt it was time to turn our lenses towards the often-overlooked cold-blooded creatures.

TG capturing “Resty Beauty”

The animals in New Mexico’s desert are uniquely beautiful, and our journey of photographing them has opened our eyes to a whole new world. We hope this blog has sparked a sense of wonder in you, inspiring you to seek out and appreciate the beauty surrounding you, no matter where your journey takes you.

desert spider beetle

To view all of our photos from New Mexico visit our Flickr albums below.

TG:

giant roadrunner-03332-SharpenAI-Standard-DeNoiseAI-standard
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JET:

western kingbird
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Coming next … “You can observe a lot just by watching.” – Yogi Berra