The last stop on our “Westward Ho II” road trip was Stewart, B.C., about a four-and-a-half-hour drive north of Prince Rupert. This tiny community is located just across the border from Hyder, Alaska and offered several opportunities: a chance to visit our northernmost state, a chance to drive the Salmon Glacier Road, and a chance to check out the Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site.
We were a little early in the season for bears at Fish Creek, so this would be a short recon mission—only three full days. But since we were already within a few hours’ drive, it would allow us to decide if we wanted to plan an extended visit in the future.
Despite the overcast sky and on/off rain, the drive from Prince Rupert to Stewart was one of the prettiest we had ever seen. For the first part of the journey, the road follows the Skeena River— the scale of which is massive! The towering snow-capped mountains form a dramatic backdrop to the lush green hills and broad, fast-running river.
Heading towards Stewart on Highway 37A, we passed Bear Glacier—a destination for many travelers. Ice once filled the pass, but in the 1940s, the glacier began to retreat, and Strohn Lake was formed in the exposed basin. In the last two decades, the glacier’s annual retreat rate has nearly doubled compared to the previous half-century, making it an important area to study and protect.
Stewart is a quaint little town with a few shops, restaurants, and hotels and a population of around 500.
We chose to stay at “The Cabin,” an Airbnb with quirky African-inspired décor and a funky layout that took a bit of getting used to. However, once you’re settled, it is more than adequate. The stand-alone building, with kitchenette, sitting area, comfy king bed, and very hot shower, provided a cozy and comfortable stay.
You can find Martin’s listing here:
The Cabin – Huts for Rent in Stewart, British Columbia, Canada – Airbnb
On Tuesday, we were out the door by 6 am. We stopped at the Alaskan border (such as it is) for a few photos before continuing to Fish Creek.
The Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site offers the unique opportunity to witness grizzlies and black bears in action. From July to September, these majestic creatures can be seen fishing for the coho, chum, and pink salmon that spawn in the creek.
The salmon run also attracts bald eagles, wolves, and other wildlife. On our visit, we were greeted by a mama merganser duck and her adorable fluffy babies,
And a family of beavers busy building a lodge.
It was a clear day, so we continued from Fish Creek to the Salmon Glacier. This is the world’s largest road-accessible glacier, and the road winds through rugged and spectacular scenery as it passes along its eastern edge.
Numerous mining companies operate in the surrounding mountains, making the Stewart/Hyder area a significant gold district in this part of North America.
About halfway up the mountain, we came to a sign warning of avalanches. There was a lot of information to decipher, and as I stood there assessing the risks—and our tolerance—a young couple from Vancouver also stopped. The young man said, “We’re going up! You gotta risk it to get the biscuit!”
So, we threw caution to the wind and carefully followed behind them.
We could not drive to the summit as snow still blocked the road.
But we did get within a mile of the top, and the view was incredible!
The Salmon Glacier is the fifth largest in Canada and a remnant of the last great age of glaciers.
The road crosses the Canada-U.S. boundary, so upon returning to Stewart, we stopped at Checkpoint Charlie-I-mean-Canada Border Services. The story goes that Stewart once had a Russian mayor who was not the easiest to get along with, hence the “Eastern Sektor” signage (installed by the residents of Hyder).
But with passports in hand, it was an easy process, and we spent most of the time chatting with the agent about the beauty of the surrounding mountains.
We were up early again on Wednesday and drove 37A to the Meziadin Junction to look for bears. It was a beautiful drive, and the reflection of the Bear Glacier in Strohn Lake was too irresistible to pass without stopping to take a few photos.
We then continued to Fish Creek. There were no beavers this morning, so we dallied around Hyder, Alaska. Hyder has the look and vibe of what Key West must have been like in the early days: a small community full of aging hippies and non-conformists.
Many of the people we spoke with had lived there for decades but every winter escape the cold and snow for warmer temperatures.
We also had the pleasure of meeting a young couple from Switzerland, Sara and Gian, who were on an adventure of a lifetime. They had quit their jobs, sold all their belongings, and were on their way to Alaska to drive south on the Pan-American Highway to Ushuaia, Argentina—about 30,000 miles! We wished them safe travels, and they gave us a sticker for our car, a memento that will always remind us of their adventurous spirit.
On Thursday, we slept in, caught up on photos, and then drove to Hyder for Fish & Chips 2 Go. Jim catches all the fish, and Dianna cooks it that day—you can’t ask for anything fresher and tastier!
It was delicious, and we enjoyed conversing with Jim while sitting at the picnic table and soaking in the view.
After lunch we went to Fish Creek and chatted with Flint, a forest service employee, who shared a wealth of information about bears and other wildlife.
On our way back to Stewart, we stopped in at Hyder Hides, another quirky little shop. While Jerry and Katie mainly sell taxidermy, they also offer a variety of souvenirs. They shared that bears often visit their backyard and Jerry took us to see the skunk grass growing at the back of their property. As we made our way through the tall grass, I gave TG a look that said, “this may not end well.”
Although we did not spot any bears on that sunny afternoon, the possibility was real as Jerry snapped our photo in front of an authentic bear trap!
We traveled to Stewart with three goals:
(1) Visit Alaska, including bring Oscar and Maddie to their 29th state
(2) Drive the Salmon Glacier Road
(3) Check out the Fish Creek Wildlife Observation site for a possible future visit
We accomplished all that and more! We saw gorgeous scenery around every curve of the road,
Watched a family of busy beavers building a lodge, photographed beautiful birds, and saw bears.
Yes, we did see bears, although they were half-hidden on the side of the road or crossing too fast for photos. However, we managed to shoot a short video of one brief encounter.
We loved our time in Stewart and look forward to planning for bear season at Fish Creek next year. So, stay tuned for more On the Road with Tall Guy & JET!
To see all the photos from our time in Stewart and Beyond, click below:
TG:
JET:
On The Road with Tall Guy & JET 