When TG and I planned our “Westward Ho II” road trip, we had two goals: desert snakes, lizards, & toads – and bears. We successfully achieved the first during our month in New Mexico.
And the bear encounters during our eleven days in Yellowstone were extraordinary!
While in New Mexico, TG cashed in frequent flyer miles and flew up to Prince Rupert, British Columbia for a grizzly bear day tour in the Khutzeymateen. You can read about his solo adventure here:
https://ontheroadwithtallguyandjet.blog/2024/05/19/murals-and-eagles-and-bears-oh-my/
We also mapped out a drive into Canada for later in our trip to experience the beauty of B. C. together.
We left our cozy apartment in Mica, Washington early Monday morning with two planned stops along the way. We crossed the border into Canada without issue and spent the first night in Kelowna, B.C.
We were up early the following day and on our way to Prince George for night #2. The slogan on B.C.’s license plates is “Beautiful British Columbia,” and it is indeed a place that inspires awe. The majestic mountains, the lush greenery, and the crystal-clear lakes all contribute to its breathtaking beauty.
I found myself snapping photos at almost every curve in the road, and TG stopped to shoot a few panos, too.
There are yellow wildlife corridor signs all along the drive.
As we made our way up and over the mountains, we spied a moose, multiple deer, and bald eagles.
One of the biggest industries in B.C. is forestry. We passed pulp mills, sawmills, plywood mills, and dozens of huge trucks carrying heavy loads of timber. However, British Columbia is a world leader in sustainable forest management, as 94% of B.C. is designated Crown land. This allows the province to manage forest resources sustainably despite the almost overwhelming number of logging trucks you see on the roads.
The first five nights of our B.C. leg were in Prince Rupert, and TG picked out a perfect home for our stay. Coastal Bliss was a charming cottage in a quiet neighborhood in Port Edward, a 15-minute drive to Prince Rupert, with plenty of room to spread out and a private area for Oscar and Maddie.
You can find Lindsay’s listing here:
Coastal Bliss – Houses for Rent in Port Edward, British Columbia, Canada – Airbnb
We booked a tour with Prince Rupert Adventure Tours on our first full day. This was the same company TG went out with on his solo trip, so we knew what to expect.
As we parked the car, I noticed a mural across the street and snapped a quick photo. “I hope we see orcas!” I exclaimed.
We were underway before our 7:00 am departure and, soon into the voyage, spotted a pod of orcas! It was exciting for both of us as it was our first time seeing these animals in the wild. We were off to a great start!
Not long after that, we spied the spouts of two humpback whales, but they never gave us anything more than a quick glimpse of their humped backs.
By now we were in the Steamer Passage, nearing the mouth of the Khutzeymateen Inlet. Everyone quieted down and began scanning the shoreline for bears. The anticipation was palpable.
We traveled almost to the end of the inlet before we saw our first bear, a sweet female named “Summer.” But by the end of our trip through the inlet, we had spotted six different bears in eight sightings, including a male named “Big Papa” and another female they call “Marshmallow.”
Most of the bears were at the far reach of our lenses, but Marshmallow gave us some nice close-ups.
We spied two more humpbacks and some Dall’s porpoises on our return to Prince Rupert.
And then, the pièce de résistance: 20 bald eagles flew towards the boat, diving and dipping for the chunks of pork fat the crew threw overboard. It was a 10-minute bald eagle frenzy!
We were back at the dock by 3:00 pm, tired and happy from our day in the “Khutz.”
We hung around the house all day on Friday, processing photos, doing laundry, and unwinding. We had a 5:30 reservation at a Japanese seafood restaurant in Prince Rupert: Fukasaku. I don’t usually delve too much into food in my blogs, but this dining experience was too exceptional not to share.
The mastermind behind Fukasaku is Dai Fukasaku, a Japanese native who initially came to Prince Rupert as a sushi chef for another establishment. In 2013, he decided to open his own place. What sets Fukasaku apart is their commitment to serving only sustainable seafood, sourced from Northwest B.C. by local fishermen.
We started with an appetizer of Hot N’ Crazy sushi—cucumber, avocado, carrot, walnuts, and a spicy sauce. Then, we had the signature miso-glazed black cod—broiled black cod marinated in a miso marinade for seven days. It was served in traditional Japanese style with a bowl of rice, miso soup, green trio, and edamame.
The spruce-tip crème brulee we had for dessert was the perfect ending to a wonderful meal. We enjoyed our delicious food while taking in the beautiful view of the harbor from our window-side table.
When we stopped into the office at Prince Rupert Adventure Tours after our fun day on Thursday, we had casually mentioned that we might like to go out again on Saturday, depending on how our photos turned out. The office manager said that because we were such loyal customers, she would give us a 20% discount if we booked another tour. The savings were too good to turn down—it almost paid for our dinner at Fukasaku!
So, on Saturday we were on the boat again for the 7:00 am departure. On our way to the Khutzeymateen, we saw humpback whales and harbor seals, but the captain wanted to get to the Inlet as quickly as possible, so we didn’t stop.
Today’s low tide was a bit later than Thursday’s, which meant we might have more – or better – bear activity. And we were not disappointed. We had five separate sightings of four different bears, one of them digging for clams right along the shoreline. It was a thrilling sight, as the magnificent animal went about her morning activities, oblivious to our presence.
But on our way back, we were treated to something that surpassed even the bear sightings. Whales were spotted off the starboard side, in the middle of the channel. The captain said it appeared they might be group hunting.
We were in for a truly rare and awe-inspiring sight as a group of 4-5 humpbacks proceeded to feed in front of us. They engaged in a behavior called “bubble-net feeding.” This is something that even seasoned wildlife enthusiasts rarely get to witness. A group of whales will circle a school of small fish such as salmon or krill and, using a team effort, corral the fish into a “net” of bubbles. The size of the net can range from three to 30 meters, depending on the number of whales participating. At some point in the bubble-blowing process, one whale will sound the feeding call, and all the whales will simultaneously swim up to the surface, mouths wide open, to feed on the trapped fish.
It was raining steadily at this point, but we didn’t care. In a dozen years of photographing humpback whales in Ecuador, we had never observed this behavior. It was a thrilling sight, something that will forever stand out in our travel memories.
But the day wasn’t over. Twenty or more bald eagles once again bombarded us as we neared Prince Rupert harbor, giving us more photo opportunities than we knew what to do with.
We met two brothers on this trip – fellow world travelers Mitch and Jeremy. They taught us a new term: “chimping,” which means you’re grinning at the photos in your camera so much you look like a chimpanzee. By the time we returned to our seats after the eagles, everyone was chimping!
On our last day we visited the Sunken Gardens in Prince Rupert. This garden, located downtown next to the harbor, is a stunning tapestry of lush, vibrant flowers, shrubs, and trees.
As its name suggests, it’s nestled in a cavity behind the courthouse, a secret oasis that might go unnoticed if you’re not aware of its existence.
You can view our photos from the Sunken Gardens here:
After a halibut burger at Smiles Seafood Cafe, we got ready for another moving day. Beginning on Monday, we had reserved four nights at an Airbnb in Stewart, about a 4 1/2-hour drive north.
Our five days in Prince Rupert were beyond expectations! We came for the grizzly bears and were rewarded with so much more – beautiful landscapes, orcas, bald eagles, and humpback whales bubble-net feeding! We are already dreaming of a return trip next year.
Click below to see the photos from our five nights in Prince Rupert.
TG’s grizzlies and bald eagles:
TG’s landscapes and Prince Rupert murals (including photos from his embedded trip in May, 2024):
JET:
Coming next … Yes We Canada! Part II: To Stewart and Beyond
On The Road with Tall Guy & JET 