Back in June 2023, someone posted a seahorse photo from Pensacola Sound on a group’s Facebook page. Of course, I immediately sent her a private message asking for the whereabouts. Not only did she give me directions to the snorkeling spot, but she agreed to meet up with me so that we could search together. The first morning we snorkeled together we found two beautiful seahorses,
longsnout seahorse, June 27, 2023
And I was introduced to my first Gulf toadfish. Thus began my friendship with Jessica.
Gulf toadfish, June 27, 2023
Not long afterward, I convinced Jessie to snorkel with me at the Navarre artificial reef. She had only been out that far once before, but I told her she needed to come with me to look for turtles!
Navarre artificial reef
We spied seven turtles on that first outing to the reef – a dream come true!
green sea turtle on the artificial reef
Jessie and me
During our last full month in Pace, I got together with Jessie as often as I could: sandwiching snorkeling adventures in between trips up to Casa-Bama as we prepared for our move. We spied reef fish, octopuses, beautiful jellyfish,
Jessie with a pink meanie
And of course, lots of turtles!
greenie on the Navarre artificial reef
One day I received an urgent call. Jessie had a family emergency and was heading up to Tennessee. Could I watch their cat, Charley, for the weekend? Regrettably, I had to decline. I felt awful in doing so and promised her that the next time they needed a sitter they could count on me.
Jessie and me
That opportunity came the last weekend of October. Jessie and Walt were spending the weekend in St. Petersburg, and I agreed to Charley-sit from Friday mid-day until Monday morning.
I broke up the drive from Casa-Bama on Friday afternoon with a stop at Holland Farms in Milton. The sunflowers and pumpkin/zinnia fields were in full bloom, and I spent two delightful hours photographing all there was to see.
You can see my photos from Holland Farms here:
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I arrived at Jessie and Walt’s house around 1:30 pm and immediately checked on Charley. She was hiding under a boat cover in the backyard. I was about to text Jessie that all was well when I noticed the “welcome gift” Charley had left by her food bowl. OH NO!!!
Oh no!!!
Fortunately, the little bird was simply stunned, and after a few hours chilling on the patio table, she was gone.
a few hours chilling on the patio table and she was gone!
On Saturday I was awakened at 4:57 am by kitten feet gently walking across my legs. But I had set my alarm for 5:00 so I was ready to get up anyway. The seas were sporty, and swimming was out of the question. Instead, I headed to Fort Pickens to hike a nature trail. I was not disappointed as I spied multiple shore birds, monarch butterflies feeding on the milkweed at the beach, and a pair of bald eagles!
bald eagle pair at Fort Pickens
That afternoon I drove to Navarre Pier to check on ocean conditions. Although yellow flags were flying, there was no way I would swim in that washing machine! And I feared that even if things calmed down in the next few days, visibility would be too stirred up to see much of anything.
Not much visibility when the seas are this sporty!
So, I pointed myself toward home and happened to catch the beautiful Hunter’s Moon rising over the bay.
Hunter’s Moon over Pensacola Bay, October 28, 2023
Sunday morning, I was up bright & early once again. I knew the sea would still be too rough to swim, so I decided to take a walk. Jessie & Walt’s house adjoins a cemetery, and they have their own “secret door” to access it from their backyard.
the secret door to the cemetery
Cemeteries are birding meccas, and I spent a wonderful hour enjoying all the birds singing in the quiet morning. Besides, it seemed somehow apropos to be walking amongst the graves two days before Halloween.
Eastern bluebird
I returned home via the secret door and sat in the backyard with Charley. Despite her watchful position below the feeders, Jessie’s garden was full of life.
scaly-breasted munias
find Charley!
I even had a brief surprise visit from Gomer, their resident gopher tortoise.
too quick for a photo, all I got was the entrance to Gomer’s burrow
The Blue Angels demonstration team was performing in Greenfield, Indiana this weekend. When they return home from an out-of-town airshow, they often do what’s called a “Beach Buzz” over Pensacola Beach. It’s never guaranteed, and you never know exactly when it might happen. Tonight was my last chance to capture this exciting flyover as it was the last of the season. So, I drove down to Pensacola Pier on Sunday afternoon in hopes of catching one more “buzz.”
Pensacola Pier
While I waited, I spied a big loggerhead sea turtle along with a few sharks that are regularly seen in the area. I was trying out a new-to-me lens, so I walked back and forth along the pier to find the best angle for my photos. I wanted to capture both the Blues in flight and people on the pier.
At 4:50 I got the message: “Radio chatter from Pace, 15-minute warning.” Sure enough, at 5:05 they appeared north and west of the pier, flying south. Moments later, they came back towards us. Just as I spied the puff of smoke in the distance, two enlisted men walked by me, clearly not aware of the planes in the distance. I cried, “They’re coming!!” and they stopped to watch just as the planes flew over us.
Blue Angels Beach Buzz, October 29, 2023
Monday morning there was nothing left to do but take care of a few things for Jessie & Walt’s return. I ate my breakfast in the garden one last time while Charley patrolled the yard.
Charley on yard patrol
Charley is a sweet kitty and we bonded over the three days. Thanks for trusting me with her, Jessie and Walt! I’m happy to do it again any time!
Charley and me bonding
You can see all my photos from the weekend here:
hover on photo to arrow through the set or click to open a new tab in Flickr
In early spring 2023, we listed our home in Okeechobee, FL for sale and eight days later received a full-price offer. We were not even close to finding our forever home, so once we knew we had a solid contract we put everything in storage and booked an Airbnb in Pace for three months.
TG and movers loading the truck in Okeechobee
Pace is located in Florida’s western Panhandle, a few miles north of Pensacola Beach, with its beautiful, sugar-white sand stretching for miles along the impossibly turquoise Gulf of Mexico.
sugar-white sand stretching for miles along the impossibly turquoise Gulf of Mexico
“Casa Pace” was perfect: affordable and pet friendly with two bedrooms, 1 ½ baths, comfortable furniture, and a large eat-in kitchen overlooking a beautiful lanai and fully fenced garden.
the backyard
Dean and Kathy spend their winter months in Florida, so the house is not available year-round. But if the dates work, it’s a perfect place to stay while visiting the area:
Multiple species of birds visit the backyard feeders, and I knew I would enjoy watching them come and go. By the time we checked out of Casa Pace in early August, I had managed to capture over 40 species of birds, butterflies, and dragonflies!
ruby-throated hummingbird
You can view them here:
hover on photo and then arrow through the set (or click to open a new tab in Flickr)
Our main objective for the three months was to find our forever home. We spent hours going through listings online, checking every available resource from crime statistics to water quality, and driving through towns.
we spent hours searching for our forever home!
But there is only so much house-hunting one can do on any given day, so we also took in the many things to see and do in the Pensacola area. Within the first few days, we learned that the Blue Angels demonstration team is home-based at NAS Pensacola, and they practice in the sky above the bay most Tuesdays and Wednesdays during their season.
the Blue Angels practice in the sky above Pensacola Bay
We headed to Fort Pickens on our very first Tuesday to watch them fly overhead, sometimes so close we could feel the rumble in our chests as they roared by.
Fort Pickens
We also watched them from tour boats,
Frisky Mermaid tour boat
The National Park Service City Ferry,
National Park Service City Ferry
listen to the lead pilot (“Boss”) in the cockpit!
We watched them from the Target parking lot located near the base,
Target parking lot!
And one day from the popular flight line viewing area behind the National Naval Aviation Museum.
the flight line viewing area
only visible from this location: a “sneak attack” fly-by at 650-700mph
You can view all our Blue Angels photos here:
hover on photo and then arrow through the set (or click to open a new tab in Flickr)
We also learned that 15 lucky folks are allowed up into the lighthouse during practice: an opportunity to see (and feel) the Blue Angels fly by at eye level. It sells out quickly but there is a waitlist and in mid-June, we got the call: there was a cancellation for Sept 12, and we had our tickets! Fingers crossed the weather will be good that day!
15 lucky people are allowed to watch the Blues practice from the top of the lighthouse!
One Sunday morning we drove to the base and climbed the 177 steps to the top of the lighthouse.
view from the top of the lighthouse
And also visited the Naval Aviation Museum, where you could easily spend a full day exploring.
the Naval Aviation Museum
My brother was a US Navy pilot who was tragically killed in 1986 while serving on the USS Enterprise. Seeing so many reminders of Steve made it a bit overwhelming for me.
the USS Enterprise exhibit
You can see our lighthouse and museum photos here:
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We visited the Gulf Islands National Seashore, with its miles of undeveloped land, nature trails, and historic old Fort Pickens.
Gulf Islands National Seashore Fort Pickens area
We went on dolphin-watching tours in Pensacola Bay,
dolphin watching on the Frisky Mermaid
And in Orange Beach, Alabama.
dolphin watching on Cold Mil in Orange Beach, Alabama
We went on sunset cruises,
sunset over Pensacola Bay
And caught post-game fireworks shows at the Blue Wahoo’s stadium.
post-game fireworks at Blue Wahoo stadium
We visited both the Pensacola and Navarre Fishing Piers.
Pensacola Pier at sunrise
Navarre Pier
One morning while on Navarre Pier I witnessed the dramatic rescue of a loggerhead sea turtle. Apparently, anglers hook turtles fairly often, especially during nesting season when tired moms are looking for an easy breakfast.
anglers hook turtles fairly often
The rescue folks were there within minutes and safely lifted her from the water 30 feet below. You can see my rescue photos here:
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And I snorkeled for hours in the emerald waters of the Gulf.
I snorkeled for hours in the emerald waters of the Gulf
Navarre artificial reef
At the end of May, we found our forever home. It sits just outside of Monroeville, Alabama, the hometown of Harper Lee, Truman Capote, and the famous educator Marva Collins, plus several other Pulitzer Prize-winning journalists. In fact, in 1997 the Alabama Legislature designated it the “Literary Capital of Alabama.”
Truman’s hat and glasses on the Literary Capital Sculpture Trail
It is a charming town with a strong tourism industry built around the novel To Kill A Mockingbird.
Monroe County Museum and World’s Most Famous Courtroom
Casa-Bama checked all the boxes. A tiny 2/2 on a half-acre lot, perfect for buttoning up during the long road trips we planned to take once we were settled but comfortable and cozy to enjoy when home.
We said “Yes to the Address”
With that weight off our shoulders, we quickly organized what we needed to do to close on the property and then got back to enjoying our “summer vacation.”
Around the same time that we found our forever home, we stumbled upon an iconic Pensacola landmark: The Graffiti Bridge. As far back as 1935, artists, graffiti enthusiasts, and local kids have been decorating the 17th Avenue CSX Railroad Bridge.
the Graffiti Bridge
The artwork changes daily, making it unique every time you visit. Between the time we learned of it and taking our first photos (less than a week), a beautiful homage to Tina Turner’s passing on May 24 had already come & gone.
You can view our Graffiti Bridge photos here:
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The Spanish Navy training tall ship, Juan Sebastian de Elcano, is one of the oldest tall ships sailing today. It was built in 1927 and named after a Spanish explorer who completed Ferdinand Magellan’s first-ever circumnavigation of the earth from 1519 to 1522.
the Juan Sebastian de Elcano
It was docked at the Port of Pensacola from May 29 – June 3, and we managed three visits during the week.
heading to NYC on June 3, 2023
We checked out the Palafox Market, an award-winning farmers market now in its twelfth straight year.
the Palafox Market
While poking around, we picked up some plant-able greeting cards embedded with wildflower seeds and a birdhouse for Casa-Bama!
a birdhouse for Casa-Bama!
And although we are not “foodies,” we did manage to visit a few of the many wonderful restaurants in the area. We officially took possession of Casa-Bama in mid-June and celebrated this new chapter of our lives with a fun (and delicious) lunch at the world-famous Flora-Bama Ole River Grill.
celebratory lunch at the Flora-Bama Ole River Grill
This restaurant/bar complex sits on the Florida-Alabama state line and is known for its Bushwacker, a frozen chocolatey beverage you must sip slowly to avoid a wicked brain freeze!
famous “Bushwacker”
There were several things we wanted to do while the house was empty, so for the next six weeks we divided our time between Pace and Casa-Bama.
we painted the interior while the house was empty!
new shed delivery!
When we first arrived in Pace, I made a list of all things I wanted to see and do while in the area. By the beginning of July, I had crossed off most: Snorkel in the emerald waters of the Gulf: check! Watch the Blue Angels practice: check! Dolphin-watching: check!
But there were still a few things I wanted to do …
Despite its name — “Blackwater” — the Blackwater River is normally a transparent golden-brown.
the Blackwater River is golden-brown
Most of it flows through the undeveloped lands of the Blackwater State Forest and Blackwater River State Park, areas of the largest longleaf pine – wiregrass ecosystem in the world, described as being rarer than a tropical rainforest.
home to the largest longleaf pine – wiregrass ecosystem in the world
Water seeping from this forest is as pure as it comes, merely tinted with tannins from leaves and roots of shoreline vegetation. I longed to paddle through this pristine environment, home to almost 200 distinct species of birds including bald eagles and (swoon) barred owls.
the water is clean and clear
I booked a short kayak trip with Blackwater Canoe Rental, 4 miles on the water requiring 1 ½ hours of leisurely paddling. They took us upstream to the launch point and helped me get in the water.
bus ride to the launch point
Then I was on my own: once on the stream, the kayak was mine for the rest of the day. I took my time enjoying the quiet forest and the snow-white sand bars.
kayaking selfie
Every so often I passed groups enjoying the beaches but for long periods I had the river completely to myself. After spending so many hours on the seashore I felt like I had been transported to another planet!
You can see the photos from my kayak adventure here:
hover on photo and then arrow through the set (or click to open a new tab in Flickr)
I also hoped to photograph the Milky Way over the ocean but shooting the Milky Way during Florida’s summer months is always a challenge. Between the daily thunderstorms and general heat & humidity, clear dark skies are hard to come by.
But the stars aligned on July 17, a clear moonless night. I ventured out to Navarre Pier at 11 pm and was shocked by the number of people with bright flashlights walking along the water’s edge. How was I ever going to capture the Milky Way with all that light pollution? I moved close to the pier and after a few test shots decided to wait until someone shone their light on the pier to start my 10-second exposure.
The finished product was not my best Milky Way ever, but I was happy with my first attempt on the beach at night.
Milky Way over Navarre Pier
The end of July came all too soon. It was time to check out of Pace and officially move into our new home. Over the three months, I had fallen in love with the white-sand beaches, the emerald water, and the Blue Angels.
a little green sea turtle on the Navarre artificial reef
I will miss all there is to see and do. But we have the best of both worlds: Casa-Bama is only 90 minutes away, which is close enough to enjoy on day trips.
close enough for day trips!
And enjoy it we will! The immersive “Beyond Van Gogh” exhibit will be in Pensacola from August 8 – September 9, and I’ve already purchased our tickets!
tickets for August 21
We will watch the Blue Angels practice from the lighthouse on Sept 12.
our confirmation for Sept 12!
And the 10th annual Foo Foo Festival is scheduled to take place November 2-13, a twelve-day celebration of art and creativity that we can’t wait to photograph!
So, thanks for a wonderful three-month summer vacation! We’ll see you again soon!
See you again soon!
To view all of our photos from our stay in Pace, follow the links below to our Flickr albums.
TG:
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jet:
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