Embrace the Cold, Live the Adventure!

In 2022, 23, and 24, we traveled to Northern Minnesota’s Sax Zim Bog in the middle of winter to photograph owls. We always had a magical time and were fortunate to see everything from great grays hunting in the snow to a playful mink who seemed to enjoy posing for us as much as we enjoyed photographing her.

With Uganda already on our 2025 travel schedule, we were unable to make a trip north that winter. Unfortunate timing for us, as it was an “irruption year,” a rare event that occurs when there is a sudden increase in the population of certain owl species, including great grays.

SZB Bird & Wildlife Report, February 17, 2025

We hoped for the best in 2026, but by mid-January, it was clear that this winter was nothing like the last. Sightings of any owls were scarce, and great grays were non-existent.

It didn’t make sense for us to travel all that way only to be disappointed. We felt that by going further north, we might have better luck with our wildlife sightings, so TG found an affordable Airbnb in the small town of Ninga, Manitoba.

Bethany’s Country Corner Stay was a charming duplex and perfectly suited our needs.

You can find her listing here:

Country Corner Stay – Apartments for Rent in Turtle Mountain, Manitoba, Canada – Airbnb

Ninga was very cold!

The forecast called for warmer temps in the coming weeks, so on our first full day, we made a quick grocery run to Brandon and then stayed close to home. Still, on that first drive we saw a red fox running across a snowy field, several white-tailed deer, flocks of snow buntings, a magpie, and, to our delight, a snowy owl. The area seemed promising! We also took a few walks around the tiny village of Ninga:  population 45.

We quickly settled into a routine. Every morning, we woke early and planned our photo safaris. Since we were in snowy owl country, we were confident we’d have good luck no matter which road we took. Over the four weeks, we saw 28 snowy owls.

As a local said, “This is wheat country, and where there is wheat, there are rodents. And where there are rodents, there are owls!”

While searching for owls, we also hoped to photograph other prairie birds such as gray partridges, snow buntings, and grouse.

gray partridge

We wanted to get close-up photos of the red foxes we saw running through the fields,

red fox at dusk

And maybe even spot a moose or two.

moose cow & calf at sunrise (with a tip of the hat to Bullwinkle J. Moose)

The cold weather meant we stuck to driving safaris. Even though we planned our routes each day,

We often ended up turning onto side roads. That was part of the fun and led to some unexpected adventures!

Based on eBird sightings, we had reliable intel of a great horned owl on a nest in Winnipeg, about a three-hour drive from Ninga. I wanted to check out the Via Rail train station anyway, so we made a day trip out of it.

We didn’t have any luck finding the GHO that day, even with help from a friendly local named Ray—“as in Ray of Sunshine.” But we did hike over 10,000 steps, which felt great after long days of sitting in the car. Our other sightings made up for it: lots of beautiful birds in the park, and on our drive, a cooperative red fox, five coyotes, big herds of white-tailed deer, and four snowy owls!

Two weeks later, we learned that the GHO owlets had hatched. With clear directions this time, we drove back to Winnipeg and were delighted to find mama and her two babies in the nest, while papa kept watch from a nearby tree.

And, on our drive, we spotted two more snowys. Altogether, it was a six owl day!

female snowy owl on a power pole

We were almost home when it began to snow. Even though we needed to keep moving, a beautiful rough-legged hawk landed on a pole right in front of us, so we stopped to take a few photos.

rough-legged hawk in snow flurries

Almost daily, a barred owl was listed on E-bird at a park about two hours away. After two failed attempts to locate her, we had given up, unsure if another search was worth it. One night TG received a message from a fellow bird-lover with a map, GPS coordinates, and a recent photo. Armed with that intel, we found her, and she certainly was worth the effort!

Everywhere we went, we were asked if we had seen any elk. “Not yet,” we’d reply. On our drive home that afternoon, we finally saw a large herd standing in a snowy field.

elk herd

We had heard about a screech owl at a park in Winnipeg but weren’t sure we’d be able to make a third trip before heading home. However, a beautiful Monday changed our minds.

another beautiful sunrise drive to Winnipeg

Since we were already in the area, we also decided to check in on the great horned family and say goodbye to the barred owl. On our drives to and from Winnipeg, we spotted four more snowys—three males and a female.

The screech owl was not at home in her tree, but it was still a three-species, nine-owl day!

nobody home!

The International Peace Garden was established in 1932 to promote peace, cooperation, and friendship between the United States and Canada. This 3.65-square-mile botanical garden sits on the border between Canada and North Dakota and features 150,000 flowers, fountains, various structures, and an 18-foot floral clock.

In the winter, there isn’t much to see outside, but the Conservatory was a perfect way to stay warm on a cold day.

At their peak in the 1940’s, there were more than 5,500 wooden grain elevators or “prairie sentinels” across Manitoba.

selfie at Cameron – Manitoba’s oldest grain elevator still on its original site (built in 1902)

But as farms switched to steel silos, the wooden elevators became outdated and costly to maintain. Now, with more lost each year to demolition, fires, or natural disasters, these landmarks are quickly disappearing.

Across the province, only 80 classic wood elevators are still standing. Hoping to preserve some of this history before it is gone forever, we planned our wildlife safaris along routes where TG could capture a few of the old elevators that are still left.

We also stopped to photograph interesting landscapes and other structures while out exploring.

Dodd’s Homestead 1889

March 13 turned out to be an extraordinary day. We didn’t have any specific plans – the snowstorm the prior evening had left many roads too edgy for our low-clearance VW Jetta.

It was blowing like a nor-easter the evening of March 12!

By mid-afternoon, the sun was shining, and TG suggested we pick up dinner from The Burning Bale. While driving, we saw a coyote by the side of the road and then two snowy owls in beautiful afternoon light. On the way back, we spotted two more snowys, bringing the total to four for the day!

male snowy owl

But the true magic happened later that night. A G2 storm bumped the KP index up to 6, and around 10 pm, we went outside to check the sky. The stars were bright, and the Northern Lights shimmered above us. Through our cameras, it glowed a brilliant emerald green. It was too cold to stay out for long, but we were grateful for this unexpected gift from Lady Aurora.

Ninga is about 14 miles from Boissevain (pronounced “boyz-eh-vane”) and was our closest option for gas and groceries.

Tommy the Turtle, Boissevain

The Boissevain-Morton Arts Council (BMAC) was founded in 1990 to develop outdoor murals and promote tourism. More than 20 professional murals now tell the town’s story, several of which were visible each time we drove through.

Welcome to Boissevain – Don’t Miss Our Murals!

So, one day we walked around town to photograph them.

We met so many wonderful people during our visit—our gracious Airbnb hosts, Bethany, her mom Alma, and brother Justin were just the first. Richard recommended quiet roads for spotting moose and other wildlife. At The Burning Bale, Chef Germaine welcomed us with warmth and amazing food.

Chef Germaine, The Burning Bale Restaurant

Gord suggested Rt 245 for a scenic drive home.

30 seconds on scenic Rt 245 (sped up 2x)

And when we mentioned our passion for owls, many locals offered helpful information.

TG with a helpful fellow-birder

Manitoba’s license plate reads “Friendly Manitoba”—and we couldn’t agree more!

With everything going on in the world right now, it’s important to take a break from the chaos once in a while. Manitoba’s wide-open spaces, abundant wildlife, and welcoming community helped us stay grounded and reminded us to look for peace, no matter what life brings.

Aurora over Ninga, March 13, 2026

To view all our photos from our month in Manitoba, click on the Flickr links below:

TG:

grey partridge-3308-DeNoiseAI-standard-SharpenAI-Standard
arrow through set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr

JET:

Snowy Owl (Bubo scandiacus)
arrow through set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr

My Learning Vacation: Prelude

I was born in Tokyo, Japan, and flew to the US for the first time when I was six months old. By the time I reached 21, I had seen more of the world than many people do in a lifetime.

my first very own passport, issued in 1973 (back in those days, young children were listed with their mother)

After TG and I tied the knot, we continued to travel and have experienced a lifetime of adventures together.

Tikal, Guatemala 1989

Before COVID-19 shut the world down in 2020, we had planned several bucket list destinations. After countries opened again, we took one international trip, an experience we were not eager to repeat any time soon. In the meantime, we discovered the joys of road trips with our two pups, and as of this writing, we have traveled with Oscar and Maddie to 29 states and four Canadian provinces.

Hyder, Alaska, June 2024

But one dream remained close to my heart: to see polar bears in the wild. The thought of being in the presence of these majestic creatures filled me with an overwhelming sense of awe. The journey to reach them is not easy, as they are not accessible by car, and the cost of airfare and the remote location make it a significant investment. Since TG did not share my passion, we decided I would take this trip solo while he stayed home with the pups.

The most practical place to see polar bears is in Churchill, Manitoba. Peak bear season is from mid-October to early November when the bears tend to be most active, gathering on the shores of Hudson Bay and waiting for the ice to freeze before setting out to hunt seals. So, it’s a short season with limited options for accommodations and tour companies.

the most practical place to see polar bears is in Churchill, Manitoba

After thorough research, we settled on the Churchill Northern Studies Centre. Their six-day/five-night “learning vacations” cover everything: accommodations, meals, and the opportunity to see polar bears up close. In addition to bear sightings and other wildlife encounters, they include a helicopter tour of Hudson Bay and an afternoon of dog sledding.

Churchill Northern Studies Centre Welcome Package

The prospect of learning from experts each evening, which appealed to the “science geek” in me, was a bonus. And the group setting—sleeping dormitory-style with shared meals—was perfect for a solo traveler like me.

Expert instructors, 2024!

You can find more information about this trip, as well as their other learning vacations here:

Learning Vacations – Churchill Northern Studies Centre (churchillscience.ca)

The facility is located inside the Churchill Wildlife Management Area, 14 miles from town. Curious polar bears and other wildlife will sometimes approach the building,

photo courtesy of CNSC Instagram

And there was a chance I might even see the Northern Lights during my stay.

the Centre has a webcam where you can watch the aurora live! (screen grab from 10-10-24)

We booked the Oct 31-Nov 5, 2024 “Lords of the Arctic” dates and roundtrip airfare from Atlanta to Churchill, with an overnight in Winnipeg at the front and back of the trip. All I had left to do was pack my suitcase!

All set to fly to Churchill

So, zip up your warmest jacket, grab your sense of adventure, and join me on a thrilling journey into the Arctic wilderness, where polar bears reign as lords!

Coming Next: My Lords of the Arctic learning vacation

Trip Report: Riding Mountain National Park

The drive from Stewart, B.C., to Excel, Alabama, takes at least eight days and seven nights. This is too far to attempt straight through – too many back-to-back nights in hotels would not suit us or the pups. So, after our first three nights, including a quick drive through Jasper and Banff, we stopped in Ochre River, Manitoba, for four nights.

our route over 2+ months!

Ochre River, a quaint town with a population of about 1000, is strategically located just 20 minutes from the north entrance to Riding Mountain National Park, one of two national parks in Manitoba. We chose to stay at Lois’s Airbnb, a charming old farmhouse on the outskirts of town that offered a peaceful retreat and a convenient base for our adventures.

Lois’s charming old farmhouse

You can find her listing here:

Mountain view – Houses for Rent in Ochre River, Manitoba, Canada – Airbnb

Riding Mountain National Park consistently makes the Top Ten list of things to do in Manitoba, and it’s easy to see why – the sheer beauty of the over 1,100 square miles makes it a perfect destination for nature lovers. Plus, it’s three overnights from Casa-Bama, making it a convenient place to stop for R&R while on road trips. This brief “layover” was a chance to check it out for future visits, either as a stand-alone destination or as a place to catch our breath on longer trips.

Hwy 10 looking north

Most of Riding Mountain’s visitors are there to hike, bike, or horseback ride on the 250 miles of trails. But since our visit was so short, and at the end of a two-month road trip, we chose to drive along the scenic roads.

we chose to drive the scenic roads

The Visitor’s Center, all the shops, and most campsites (hence most people) are in the park’s southern end, in Wasagaming. Once we were north of the hustle and bustle, the park was quieter, with more wildlife activity.

Riding Mountain National Park Visitor’s Center

On our first morning, we drove into Dauphin, about 20 minutes away, to stock up on the few groceries we would need for our stay. That afternoon, we checked out Riding Mountain. A considerable amount of rain had fallen in the past few weeks, and the unpaved roads were muddy. We drove the Lake Audy Road to the bison enclosure, splashing through puddles and potholes the 15 miles each way. We did not see much on the drive, and by the time we were back on 10 – the main road that runs through the center of the park – our poor car was covered in mud!

Opting for paved roads for the rest of our stay, we headed to Wasagaming and saw several deer.

white-tailed deer near Wasagaming townsite

We stopped at the Visitors Center, and as we started our journey back north, we were graced by the sight of a beautiful cinnamon morph black bear. After experiencing the chaos of Yellowstone bear jams, it was refreshing to witness such a calm encounter. She was happily grazing along the side of the road, unfazed by the few cars that had stopped to watch her. No one blocked traffic, and no one got out of their vehicle. It was a serene moment, a stark contrast to the frenetic energy of Yellowstone.

cinnamon morph black bear

Thrilled with such a magnificent sighting on our first visit to the park, we headed home, our hearts racing with excitement, to plan the remainder of our stay.

We were at the park by 6:50 the following day, and within two hours, we saw four black bears—one a cinnamon morph—and several deer.

black bear
white-tailed deer

Multiple cars drove by as we watched alongside the road, but no one stopped. We once again marveled at how “chill” Riding Mountain wildlife sightings were compared to the frenzy of Yellowstone.

cinnamon morph black bear

However, the recent rains had made the mosquitoes relentless. The moment we lowered the windows, they swarmed the car. Merely an annoyance to me, TG was instantly covered in painful bites, making photography almost insufferable. Pack your insect repellent if you plan a trip to Riding Mountain in July!

We went back for a late afternoon drive through the park. During this visit, we spied three more bears, all in the park’s northern half. In our limited experience, we had already concluded that there were two types of bear sightings: if the bear was on the move, running across the road, there was no point in stopping. That bear wanted nothing to do with us.

this bear wanted nothing to do with us!

But if she were going about the business of grazing, paying us no attention, we could stop for photos and sooner or later get the “full face” shot we hoped for.

full face black bear

We stopped at a quiet spot for a picnic supper and watched a pine marten run across the road. Our bear count was up to eight for our three visits, and although we did not see another on this trip, we were thrilled with the sightings we had and the photos we took.

If I’ve piqued your interest in Riding Mountain and you would like to plan a trip, here is an excellent article by Road Trip Manitoba. It covers everything from the park’s history to places to stay to the best hiking trails.

The COMPLETE Guide for Visiting Riding Mountain National Park (roadtripmanitoba.com)

To view our joint photo set from Riding Mountain, click below:

white-tailed deer
hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr

Happy planning and stay tuned for more from On the Road with Tall Guy & JET!