Grizzly bears – On The Road with Tall Guy & JET

Yes We Canada! Part I: Prince Rupert

When TG and I planned our “Westward Ho II” road trip, we had two goals: desert snakes, lizards, & toads – and bears. We successfully achieved the first during our month in New Mexico.

western diamondback rattlesnake, New Mexico, May 2024

And the bear encounters during our eleven days in Yellowstone were extraordinary!

grizzly mama and cub, Yellowstone National Park, June 2024

While in New Mexico, TG cashed in frequent flyer miles and flew up to Prince Rupert, British Columbia for a grizzly bear day tour in the Khutzeymateen. You can read about his solo adventure here:

https://ontheroadwithtallguyandjet.blog/2024/05/19/murals-and-eagles-and-bears-oh-my/

We also mapped out a drive into Canada for later in our trip to experience the beauty of B. C. together.

We left our cozy apartment in Mica, Washington early Monday morning with two planned stops along the way. We crossed the border into Canada without issue and spent the first night in Kelowna, B.C.

We were up early the following day and on our way to Prince George for night #2. The slogan on B.C.’s license plates is “Beautiful British Columbia,” and it is indeed a place that inspires awe. The majestic mountains, the lush greenery, and the crystal-clear lakes all contribute to its breathtaking beauty.

I found myself snapping photos at almost every curve in the road, and TG stopped to shoot a few panos, too.

There are yellow wildlife corridor signs all along the drive.

As we made our way up and over the mountains, we spied a moose, multiple deer, and bald eagles.

One of the biggest industries in B.C. is forestry. We passed pulp mills, sawmills, plywood mills, and dozens of huge trucks carrying heavy loads of timber. However, British Columbia is a world leader in sustainable forest management, as 94% of B.C. is designated Crown land. This allows the province to manage forest resources sustainably despite the almost overwhelming number of logging trucks you see on the roads.

The first five nights of our B.C. leg were in Prince Rupert, and TG picked out a perfect home for our stay. Coastal Bliss was a charming cottage in a quiet neighborhood in Port Edward, a 15-minute drive to Prince Rupert, with plenty of room to spread out and a private area for Oscar and Maddie.

You can find Lindsay’s listing here:

Coastal Bliss – Houses for Rent in Port Edward, British Columbia, Canada – Airbnb

We booked a tour with Prince Rupert Adventure Tours on our first full day. This was the same company TG went out with on his solo trip, so we knew what to expect.

As we parked the car, I noticed a mural across the street and snapped a quick photo. “I hope we see orcas!” I exclaimed.

We were underway before our 7:00 am departure and, soon into the voyage, spotted a pod of orcas! It was exciting for both of us as it was our first time seeing these animals in the wild. We were off to a great start!

Not long after that, we spied the spouts of two humpback whales, but they never gave us anything more than a quick glimpse of their humped backs.

By now we were in the Steamer Passage, nearing the mouth of the Khutzeymateen Inlet. Everyone quieted down and began scanning the shoreline for bears. The anticipation was palpable.

everyone scanned the shoreline looking for bears

We traveled almost to the end of the inlet before we saw our first bear, a sweet female named “Summer.” But by the end of our trip through the inlet, we had spotted six different bears in eight sightings, including a male named “Big Papa” and another female they call “Marshmallow.”

the Khutzeymateen Inlet

Most of the bears were at the far reach of our lenses, but Marshmallow gave us some nice close-ups.

We spied two more humpbacks and some Dall’s porpoises on our return to Prince Rupert.

And then, the pièce de résistance: 20 bald eagles flew towards the boat, diving and dipping for the chunks of pork fat the crew threw overboard. It was a 10-minute bald eagle frenzy!

a bald eagle frenzy!

We were back at the dock by 3:00 pm, tired and happy from our day in the “Khutz.”

We hung around the house all day on Friday, processing photos, doing laundry, and unwinding. We had a 5:30 reservation at a Japanese seafood restaurant in Prince Rupert: Fukasaku. I don’t usually delve too much into food in my blogs, but this dining experience was too exceptional not to share.

The mastermind behind Fukasaku is Dai Fukasaku, a Japanese native who initially came to Prince Rupert as a sushi chef for another establishment. In 2013, he decided to open his own place. What sets Fukasaku apart is their commitment to serving only sustainable seafood, sourced from Northwest B.C. by local fishermen.

We started with an appetizer of Hot N’ Crazy sushi—cucumber, avocado, carrot, walnuts, and a spicy sauce. Then, we had the signature miso-glazed black cod—broiled black cod marinated in a miso marinade for seven days. It was served in traditional Japanese style with a bowl of rice, miso soup, green trio, and edamame.

The spruce-tip crème brulee we had for dessert was the perfect ending to a wonderful meal. We enjoyed our delicious food while taking in the beautiful view of the harbor from our window-side table.

When we stopped into the office at Prince Rupert Adventure Tours after our fun day on Thursday, we had casually mentioned that we might like to go out again on Saturday, depending on how our photos turned out. The office manager said that because we were such loyal customers, she would give us a 20% discount if we booked another tour. The savings were too good to turn down—it almost paid for our dinner at Fukasaku!

So, on Saturday we were on the boat again for the 7:00 am departure. On our way to the Khutzeymateen, we saw humpback whales and harbor seals, but the captain wanted to get to the Inlet as quickly as possible, so we didn’t stop.

a quick glimpse of harbor seals as we sped by

Today’s low tide was a bit later than Thursday’s, which meant we might have more – or better – bear activity. And we were not disappointed. We had five separate sightings of four different bears, one of them digging for clams right along the shoreline. It was a thrilling sight, as the magnificent animal went about her morning activities, oblivious to our presence.

But on our way back, we were treated to something that surpassed even the bear sightings. Whales were spotted off the starboard side, in the middle of the channel. The captain said it appeared they might be group hunting.

We were in for a truly rare and awe-inspiring sight as a group of 4-5 humpbacks proceeded to feed in front of us. They engaged in a behavior called “bubble-net feeding.” This is something that even seasoned wildlife enthusiasts rarely get to witness. A group of whales will circle a school of small fish such as salmon or krill and, using a team effort, corral the fish into a “net” of bubbles. The size of the net can range from three to 30 meters, depending on the number of whales participating. At some point in the bubble-blowing process, one whale will sound the feeding call, and all the whales will simultaneously swim up to the surface, mouths wide open, to feed on the trapped fish.

8-image gif of humpback whales bubble-net feeding

It was raining steadily at this point, but we didn’t care. In a dozen years of photographing humpback whales in Ecuador, we had never observed this behavior. It was a thrilling sight, something that will forever stand out in our travel memories.

But the day wasn’t over. Twenty or more bald eagles once again bombarded us as we neared Prince Rupert harbor, giving us more photo opportunities than we knew what to do with.

We met two brothers on this trip – fellow world travelers Mitch and Jeremy. They taught us a new term: “chimping,” which means you’re grinning at the photos in your camera so much you look like a chimpanzee. By the time we returned to our seats after the eagles, everyone was chimping!

On our last day we visited the Sunken Gardens in Prince Rupert. This garden, located downtown next to the harbor, is a stunning tapestry of lush, vibrant flowers, shrubs, and trees.

As its name suggests, it’s nestled in a cavity behind the courthouse, a secret oasis that might go unnoticed if you’re not aware of its existence.

You can view our photos from the Sunken Gardens here:

sunken garden-07131 — hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr

After a halibut burger at Smiles Seafood Cafe, we got ready for another moving day. Beginning on Monday, we had reserved four nights at an Airbnb in Stewart, about a 4 1/2-hour drive north.

Our five days in Prince Rupert were beyond expectations! We came for the grizzly bears and were rewarded with so much more – beautiful landscapes, orcas, bald eagles, and humpback whales bubble-net feeding! We are already dreaming of a return trip next year.

Click below to see the photos from our five nights in Prince Rupert.

TG’s grizzlies and bald eagles:

bald eagle-05822-SharpenAI-Standard-DeNoiseAI-standard — hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr

TG’s landscapes and Prince Rupert murals (including photos from his embedded trip in May, 2024):

inside passage pano 23-SharpenAI-Standard-DeNoiseAI-standard — hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr

JET:

Coming next … Yes We Canada! Part II: To Stewart and Beyond

You can observe a lot just by watching (Yogi Berra)

When TG and I first started road tripping, we quickly learned that while a 10 to 12-hour drive might get you from Point A to B, you miss a lot on the journey. Now, we limit our driving days to eight hours or less to allow for sightseeing along our route.

We left New Mexico on Wednesday to arrive in Gardiner, MT, by Friday. The second stop on our “Westward Ho II” road trip was Yellowstone National Park. When we visited the park in the fall of 2022, we had many wonderful animal encounters, but we longed to see more bears, especially cubs.

We spent Wednesday night in Gallup, N.M., and were on the road early Thursday morning, with a planned stop at Arches National Park before continuing to Provo, Utah. But first, we detoured by Ship Rock, a dramatic 7,177-foot-high rock formation on Navajo Nation land that figures prominently in Navajo mythology. We briefly chatted with Ray, a Navajo guide who was waiting for clients, took a few photos, and were on our way.

We drove north and west towards Arches, passing by another interesting rock formation called “Church Rock.”

And the beautiful Wilson Arch.

Regrettably, just after Wilson Arch, our plans took an unexpected turn. We found ourselves caught in a horrific traffic jam, with cars backed up for almost 15 miles. By the time we got through, it was too late to stop at Arches. Disappointed, we continued to Provo for the night, a reminder of the importance of building in extra time!

traffic backed up on 191 between Wilson Arch and Moab

We made it safely to Gardiner the following day with no further incidents. Our suite at the Super 8 was perfect: it had two bedrooms, two full bathrooms, a comfortable living area, and a fully equipped kitchen. We could not have asked for better accommodations for the four nights we spent outside the north entrance to Yellowstone.

view from our room at the Super 8, Gardiner (yes, that’s an elk by the building)

We were out the door early Saturday morning for our first photo safari into the park. There were herds of bison, pronghorns, and elk. We spied a moose cow with a small calf and later, two bulls. A coyote hunted in a field, and a red fox sashayed alongside the road with her mouth full of breakfast.

And much to our surprise and delight, a mama grizzly with two cubs! This sighting was lucky as they came down the hill at a pull-out, with only two other cars already at the spot. We spent a good ½ hour with them before enough people had arrived to make it an official “bear jam.”

grizzly mama and two cubs

One interesting side note about this sighting: Because we were staying at the Super 8, we could not leave O & M alone in our hotel room—they had to accompany us into the park. Typically, when people or cars are nearby, Oscar is a jerk (there’s a reason we call him “Oscar the Grouch”). But he and Maddie were quiet as church mice during the grizzly sighting. No one even realized we had two dogs in the car. The pups knew … them thar was BEARS!!

On Sunday, we got another early start. We arrived in Lamar Valley by 7 a.m., and just a few miles into our drive, we spotted a mama grizzly and her year-old cub across the river. They gave us a more typical bear sighting than we had experienced the day before – they were at least 200 yards away.

grizzly mama and year-old cub across the river

We moved on to the Trout Lake trailhead, where we had the close encounter yesterday. There were no bears this morning, so we slowly made our way back west. About a mile down the road, we saw our mama and the cubs coming down the mountain.

A bison herd grazing in the field scattered as soon as the bears arrived. We had no agenda today, so we waited and watched to see if anything happened. The bears stayed far off, almost out of reach of our lenses.

the bison scattered as soon as the bears arrived

At one point, mama lay down, and the two cubs began nursing. Although we were too far away to see much, witnessing this intimate moment was still a thrill. Afterward, both cubs were in a milk coma, and they all napped. By this time, we had been in that spot for over two hours.

Suddenly, mama started coming towards us, the cubs following behind. She wanted to cross the road to the river, but people and cars blocked her. She moved further down the hill, out of our sight, and finally crossed to the other side.

We continued west, stopping for a badger

And then a coyote before coming upon a huge group, watching a mama grizzly and three cubs high on the side of a hill. They were nothing more than little dots, even with our binoculars, so we didn’t linger.

Not much further, we spied a lone cinnamon morph black bear grazing in a field of dandelions. This sighting turned into another bear jam, so after taking a few shots, we moved on.

It was another awe-inspiring day in the park, filled with the wonders of nature. As we drove home, I casually told TG that although I was thrilled with all our grizzly sightings, I still hoped to see a black bear with cubs.

On Monday, we planned to make a day of it and packed a picnic lunch. The weather was cloudy and drizzly, but we managed to spy the mama and year-old grizzly we had seen the day before in Lamar Valley. We decided to drive the Dunraven Pass, a scenic road that leads over Mt. Washburn, reaching an elevation of 8,800 feet.

the drive over Dunraven Pass – lots of snow up on the mountain!

No sooner had we started the drive than we spied a black bear grazing along the side of the road.

A few miles further, we found ourselves in a classic Yellowstone bear jam. Two tiny black bear cubs were perched at the top of a tall tree, their mother keeping a watchful eye from below. Two rangers were on duty, managing the traffic and ensuring everyone’s safety. Ranger Fred shared, “Her nickname is Good Mama, but I call her Bad Mama as she’s been known to charge.”

The cubs were challenging to photograph. They were mostly hidden by branches and were nothing more than black blobs to the naked eye. Eventually, they woke up and started to climb down. Mama moved to the bottom of the tree, growing increasingly agitated. The crowd was kept back, 75 yards or more from the tree, as cars continued to pass by in both directions.

two tiny black bear cubs high up in a tree

As the situation escalated, Mama bear signaled the cubs to climb higher, and the rangers swiftly instructed us to return to our cars. “We’re turning this into a drive-by,” Fred said, “for the good of the bears and for your safety.” It was time for us to go.

Near Fishing Bridge, there is a pull-out called LeHardy Rapids. We stopped there for lunch and to photograph the beautiful harlequin ducks surfing on the Yellowstone River.

harlequin ducks (one male and two females)

We drove back to Lamar Valley, but with the on-and-off rain, it was a tough day for everyone. A lone coyote, an animal we often see around the park, had created a huge traffic jam while he sat on the ridge eyeing the crowd and wondering what all the fuss was about.

Tuesday was moving day. We stayed near Yellowstone for a few nights to get sunrise access to the park. But too many nights in a hotel room, plus riding around in the car all day, was not good for O & M – or for us. We had booked an Airbnb outside Livingston for the remainder of our time in Yellowstone.

Shepherd’s Nook was a true escape from the world, miles from any sign of civilization. Our home away from home was a cozy haven, equipped with all the essentials, including reliable Wi-Fi and a washer and dryer. The only light that broke the night darkness was the faint glow from Livingston, and the stars were breathtaking!

You can find the listing here:

The Shepherd’s Nook – Apartments for Rent in Livingston, Montana, United States – Airbnb

We had been going nonstop for a solid week and needed time to recharge, so we gave ourselves a day off on Wednesday. We spent the day leisurely, enjoying the view from our apartment. Oscar was enamored with the Richardson’s ground squirrels that played outside our ground-level windows – it was like TV for dogs!

On Thursday, we returned to Yellowstone. Our goal was to spot bears, and we ended the day with five separate sightings of black bears and cubs.

But the true magic was something extraordinary. A majestic black wolf sauntered through a field and crossed the road in front of us. TG swiftly drove ahead and turned into the first available pull-out. The wolf emerged over the ridge and posed in the most perfect, postcard-worthy light we could have hoped for.

After hearing of multiple wolf sightings viewed only through a scope or powerful binoculars, seeing one this close was a dream come true. The sheer majesty of the creature, with its sleek, black fur and piercing, yellow eyes, left us in awe.

12-image gif of the wolf crossing the road

Not long after that, a second wolf emerged from the river and crossed the road behind us—two close wolf sightings in as many hours!

a second close wolf sighting in as many hours!

Our Airbnb host, Judson, provided many suggestions for local wildlife safaris and scenic drives. We opted to stay close to home on Friday and Saturday to explore the nearby areas.

That evening, as if to affirm our decision, a herd of mule deer walked through the yard and down to the creek, a pronghorn appeared over the ridge, and a coyote stealthily hunted for dinner on the hillside across from our window.

We spent the two days simply unwinding and immersing ourselves in the tranquility of the area, much of which we could enjoy without leaving the property.

mule deer beside Adair Creek (below our window)

To experience the beauty of Shepherd’s Nook, click here:

shepherd pano 2-SharpenAI-Standard — hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr

Sunday was our last visit to Yellowstone. We began the day with two back-to-back bear sightings, so we were off to a great start!

Our drive took us towards Tower Falls, a place where we had previously spotted bears. However, luck wasn’t on our side this morning. Undeterred, we ventured to Lamar Valley, where a delightful surprise awaited us – the mama badger, leisurely sunbathing outside her den!

TG wanted to take some panos of the valley with bison grazing, so we moseyed west.

We encountered a mama bear and two adorable cubs as we made our way from Tower Junction back towards Mammoth. The scene was chaotic, with several cars and people crowding the area. In a moment of pure pandemonium, the bears crossed the road between the vehicles, then reversed course and retreated down the hill.

We stayed back, trying to get the best photos we could. Finally, a ranger arrived and brought order to the chaos.

We were happy to have one last sighting of a mama bear with cubs, but we also knew we were “done” with Yellowstone on this visit. Neither of us was comfortable with the huge crowds that seemed to have arrived overnight.

We spent our last two days near home, enjoying the wildlife around Shepherd’s Nook and preparing for the next stop on our road trip.

As we said goodbye to Montana, we were filled with profound gratitude. Between the Super 8 in Gardiner and the Shepherd’s Nook Airbnb, we spent 11 full days in the Yellowstone area. We dedicated five days to the park, spending an average of five hours per visit. While surrounded by countless bison, pronghorn, and elk, our hearts were set on spotting bears.

bison and red dogs crossing the road in Lamar Valley

And in the end, we were rewarded with 37 grizzly and black bears in 16 unique sightings, with eleven of those being a mama and cubs.

But the most awe-inspiring moment—surpassing even the bear sightings—was the wolf we were fortunate to encounter on June 6, 2024. It was truly extraordinary, as he passed no more than two car lengths in front of us.

It is a moment we will cherish forever.

To see all the photos from our eleven days in the Yellowstone area click below:

TG:

coyote-05075-SharpenAI-Standard-DeNoiseAI-low-light — hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr

JET:

Grizzly mama and cubs — hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr

Coming next … Palouse-La Trek

Murals and Eagles and Bears, Oh My!

When we were planning our Westward Ho II road trip, we allocated the month of May to New Mexico. With that in mind, I made plans to take a short embedded solo trip to Prince Rupert, B.C. to join a grizzly bear day tour offered by Prince Rupert Adventure Tours. This trip was a prelude to our upcoming drive to British Columbia, a journey that promised both adventure and discovery.

JET dropped me off at ABQ Sunport on Monday afternoon. I flew to Vancouver through Denver, arriving late that night and checked into a nearby hotel. The next day, I boarded an Air Canada turboprop plane for the 90-minute flight to Prince Rupert, B.C. The mountains were in full view when we left Vancouver but were blanketed by thick, cottonlike clouds as we approached Prince Rupert, a surprisingly bustling city of around 20,000 on British Columbia’s coast, with a robust cargo port, grain, propane, and wood pellet terminals, a cruise ship port and a vast fleet of all sizes of fishing vessels.

YPR Airport, essentially a large one-room building with a runway, is located on Digby Island, which requires a 10-minute (school) bus ride, a 20-minute ferry ride to the dock at Prince Rupert, and another 10-minute bus ride to the city center.

Once downtown, Prince Rupert is quite walkable, if a little hilly. I arrived at Eagle Bluff B&B, my home for the next two nights, after a brisk 15-minute walk. Blue, the proprietor, had upgraded me to the Harbor Suite, with a private deck and view of the harbor.

I had dinner that evening at the Breakers Pub, followed by a short walk around town before hitting the hay. Note: if you like fish & chips, Prince Rupert is THE place to be. Some of the best fish (halibut) and chips you are likely to find.

The following day, Blue provided a sublime breakfast of homemade yogurt, fresh fruit, pancakes, and coffee/juice. Afterwards I headed to Prince Rupert Adventure Tours to check in for my 10AM departure.

Guests board the Inside Passage, a banana-yellow pontoon boat that can comfortably hold 100 passengers and the crew. The vessel is in pristine condition, comfortable, and quite fast, with a top speed of 21 knots. There are multiple inside and outside decks for viewing wildlife and scenery. There is also a well-stocked snack bar.

There were only 24 guests on my chosen date, which allowed for plenty of room for photography. However, the spaciousness of the ship would make photography manageable even at capacity. Once everyone was checked in, we embarked on our journey.

The eventual destination is the Khutzeymateen Inlet, a two-hour trip from Prince Rupert. The scenery is quite breathtaking and quickly becomes wilderness, with little evidence of human life.

Along the way, we saw sea birds and an occasional humpback whale. We also saw some stellar sea lions on a rock outcropping that quickly slipped into the water as we approached. At the mouth of the inlet, the crew gave operating instructions for our time there: No talking while outside on deck if possible, and then only in a low whisper, walk quietly, no food or drink of any kind outside on deck.

no talking on deck once inside the Inlet

It was not long before we spied our first grizzly bear, a lone male digging for clams on the beach. He was far away, perhaps 150 yards or more, but wonderful to see, nonetheless. The bear looked somewhat thin, evidence that he had only recently emerged from his months-long hibernation. By the fall, he will have fattened up considerably.

A little farther along, we spied a mother and two-year-old cub named Hot Chocolate and Marshmallow, respectively. They were also quite far away, farther than the first bear. They were aware of our presence but continued to munch on vegetation.

We eventually passed the Khutzeymateen Lodge, the only evidence of human activity in the inlet. The lodge offers three and four-day stays for up to 10 guests, with multiple opportunities for up-close viewing of the bears. I can only image how quiet – and dark – it must be there at night!

Khutzeymateen Lodge against a backdrop of wilderness

Eventually, the ship reached the end of the inlet, and it was time to start slowly heading back to Prince Rupert. We had not seen any more grizzlies after the mother and cub, so everyone was scanning the banks closely. We saw one last lone male before we reached the mouth of the inlet, along with a couple of humpback whales.

The sail back took a slightly different route through what is called the “Work Channel,” a very productive fishing area that humpback whales also frequent in season. The whales work together to force their favorite food source, krill, up to the surface where they open their huge mouths and take in the krill-filled water, then siphon the water through their baleens, a behavior known as bubble-feeding. We lingered in the area to see if the whales would give us a show, but it was not to be.

As we approached Prince Rupert, a bald eagle came into view trailing the ship. Then another, followed by two more. The captain slowed the boat, and soon there were over twenty beautiful raptors circling the ship. As bald eagles are my favorite subject for bird photography, I was thrilled – I shot several hundred photos in 15 minutes. The eagles eventually disbursed, we continued to Prince Rupert, and good-byes and well-wishes were shared among guests from all over the world.

You can view all the photos from my day with Prince Rupert Adventure Tours here:

Still in awe over the eagles, I headed to Dolly’s Fish Market for fish and chips. Several of my fellow tour companions were also there for dinner, and we passed the time revisiting our journey to the Khutzeymateen. It was a nice ending to a great day.

The next morning, I finished packing, stowed my bags, and spent a few hours walking around Prince Rupert. There are many photo-worthy murals around town depicting marine and wildlife in the area.

many beautiful murals around Prince Rupert

You can view my photos from Prince Rupert here:

Finally, it was time to walk to the bus station for the ferry. Less than 48 hours after arriving, my adventure was over, and I was on my way back to New Mexico. Having never visited Prince Rupert before, my expectations were uncertain. With it now in my memories, I can’t wait to return next month, this time with JET and the pups.

Stay tuned!!