In January 2023 we returned home from a 4 ½ month, 23,000-mile road trip, covering 27 states and two Canadian provinces. We had such a great time that before we even pulled into our driveway we were saying “let’s do this again!”
While on the road, we decided to sell our house in Florida and move to an area with a lower cost of living. So, upon our return, we immediately set to work getting the house ready for the market. Much to our surprise, it sold in just 8 days, and we were officially “house-less” by early May.
“Casa Mini” sold in just 8 days!
We booked an Airbnb in Pensacola for three months and began house-hunting in the Panhandle and southern Alabama. By mid-June, we had found something that checked all the boxes: a tiny house sitting on just under an acre of land; a place we could easily button up while on the long road trips we planned to take, but comfy and cozy enough to retire in place once that time came.
Casa-Bama pano
We spent the last six months of 2023 making “Casa-Bama” our own, including planting 37 trees, creating a butterfly garden, and building a 10×10 gazebo on our deck.
building the gazebo!
Dec 23, 2023
By Christmas, our project list was complete, and we were ready to start planning 2024. My friend Jessie gave me a “junk journal” for Christmas and I decided to fill the pages with all the things we’ll do and places we’ll go this year. Included in upcoming “On the Road” blogs you can expect to see pages of the “junk” we’ll collect along the way.
Junk Journal – 2024 preview page
Over the two decades we lived in Florida, we traveled to Crystal River every year to swim with the manatees. We timed this annual pilgrimage around my birthday as nose-bumping with these gentle giants is (for me) a heart-warming treat. My 65th birthday is in January, so it’s only appropriate that our first trip of 2024 is a week-long stay in Crystal River, where we’ll be joined by some dear friends from Florida.
bumping noses with a manatee in Crystal River, FL
Since moving to Southern Alabama, we’ve learned that Mobile, not New Orleans, is the birthplace of Mardi Gras. There are krewes dating back to the 1800’s! We’ve booked an Airbnb close to the festivities in hopes of capturing a little of the excitement of the season. As an added bonus, the Airbnb is called “The Owl’s Nest” because there is an active barred owl’s nest on the property!
a barred owl in our backyard in Okeechobee
April puts us back in Pensacola for a short stay: a chance to catch the Blue Angels practice plus an oil change and new tires for the Jetta before embarking on Westward Ho II.
Blue Angels, Pensacola, FL
We’ve always wanted to visit Yellowstone in the spring when the park is full of babies, including bear cubs. So, we’re spending a month at Domenick’s condo in Big Sky, Montana, located approximately 50 minutes from the park’s west entrance.
September 2022
But the timing is perfect for a brief detour through Houston to catch the opening night of the Rolling Stones Hackney Diamonds Tour. Which, if you didn’t already know, is sponsored by AARP!
we’ll be there!
Once we leave Domenick’s we’re toying with a few nights outside of Grand Teton National Park on our way to Lemitar, New Mexico. We’ve been to Pam’s casita twice before but always in the cold, winter months. Summer is the time to see the beautiful snakes, lizards, and toads that inhabit the desert and our buddy, Bob, at the Rattlesnake Museum in Albuquerque has promised to take us out for a day.
“the most dangerous museum in the world”
We’ll return home in enough time to spend most of the summer at Casa-Bama and give us a chance to enjoy the warm, emerald waters of the Gulf of Mexico.
Navarre Fishing Pier, Navarre, FL
But come October we are on the road again. All reports indicate that 2024 will be a banner year for the aurora borealis. Solar activity has picked up and it appears will peak in the next 12-15 months. Although seeing the northern lights in Canora over Christmas last year was a thrill, we both long to see and photograph more of the beautiful Lady dancing. We’ve booked two months at an Airbnb in Ninga, Manitoba.
Canora, Saskatchewan, Dec 2022
During that time, we’ve also embedded two flights up to Churchill. Polar bears in the wild are high on our “Before I Die” bucket lists but traveling with two pups complicates the logistics. So, we’ve booked two consecutive five-night/six-day “Lords of the Arctic” learning vacations at the Churchill Northern Studies Center. A chance to see polar bears right outside our window, tundra buggy rides through the WMA, lectures every evening, dogsledding, and a 45-minute helicopter ride!
Churchill Northern Studies Center Welcome package
Finally, we’re heading back to Hibbing, Minnesota for one more visit to the Sax-Zim Bog and the great gray owls. Quite honestly, we’re getting too old for these wintry weather destinations and want to get them in while we still have the fortitude to do so!
one more chance to see the Great Gray Owls!
Before we left on Westward Ho I back in September 2022, I wrote “Buckle your seatbelts, you’re in for quite the ride.”
we’ve lost count of the number of hotels!
We’ll still fine-tuning some of the details, but as we turn our calendars to 2024, I’ll say it again “Buckle your seatbelts, you’re in for quite the ride!”
Happy New Year and be sure to follow along with us in 2024!
On September 18, 2022, we left Florida for a 5 1/2 -month road trip, visiting Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks, New Mexico, Saskatchewan, North Dakota, and Minnesota. It was an ambitious itinerary and we were excited about checking many “must-sees” off our bucket list.
And … we’re off! (September 18, 2022)
Sometime in December, we decided that spending two more months in the cold, northern winter would be too much. So, we cut our month in the Sax-Zim Bog down to just a week and pointed ourselves towards home at the end of January.
by mid-December we were done with the cold and snow!
By the time we pulled into our driveway in Okeechobee, we had traveled 22,614.6 miles for 130 days, visited 19 states and two Canadian provinces.
22,614.6 miles later we were back home (trip odometer rolled over three times) January 25, 2023
In all those miles, we sat in traffic due to an accident just once: ironically, it was outside of Orlando on our way home, less than 100 miles from Okeechobee.
Oscar and Maddie were amazingly good road trip pups!
We stayed at seven different Airbnbs and spent 15 nights in hotels while moving from one place to the next. TG fully packed and unpacked the car sixteen times, and partially unpacked/repacked it 30 times.
TG had the packing & unpacking puzzle down to a science!
After we returned home, someone asked, “what was your favorite sighting?” In 4 1/2 months of favorites, that’s an impossible question.
Instead, we’ve compiled a list of the “Best/Worst” along with a few photos. We’ve also put together a highlights video you will find at the end of this blog.
Best Drive: The roads from Canora, Saskatchewan to Fargo, North Dakota for the beautiful landscapes and all the wildlife we saw along the way.
What is left of Arena, ND, a ghost town between Minot and Fargo, January 6, 2023
Worst Drive: Teton Pass had TG white-knuckling it while I breathed into a paper bag. (Seriously!)
Teton Pass
Best AirBnB: Our cozy home in Canora, Saskatchewan. It had everything we needed and was laid out perfectly, with a fenced-in yard for Oscar and Maddie.
our cozy home in Canora, Saskatchewan
Worst AirBnB: None! They were all great!
Best Hotel: Hyatt House, Minot, North Dakota. Full size kitchens and complimentary washers & dryers!
Worst Hotel: Days Inn, Topeka, KS. Don’t even ask.
Best Meal: Huevos rancheros at the El Corral Café in Corona, New Mexico
Huevos Rancheros at the El Corral Cafe in Corona, New Mexico
Worst Meal: Thanksgiving, 2022. We wanted fancy cheeses but all we could find in Socorro were Kaukauna cheese balls.
Thanksgiving dinner, 2022
Funniest Moment: See Worst Meal. I asked the salesperson if they had any brie and she replied, “is that a type of alcohol?”
Scariest Moment: Driving the Norris-Canyon Road in Yellowstone National Park on a sheet of solid ice.
the icy, snowy roads through Yellowstone National Park
Favorite Sighting: Huck, the huge grizzly bear we spotted crossing the Snake River while driving the Rockefeller Parkway between Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Park. “It’s a bear!!!! In the water!!!”
Huck, named by the locals for the nearby Huckleberry Mountain
Favorite Landscape: Mormon Row, Grand Teton National Park
Mormon Row, Grand Teton National Park
Favorite Night Sky: The Northern Lights in the wee hours of January 4, 2023
Around 2:00 am, January 4, 2023
Most Memorable: Our week at the McReynolds Blacktail Cabins in Grand Teton
a view of the Grand Tetons from our shower!
Our Bucket List:
Grizzly and black bears √
black bear, Grand Teton National Park
Moose √
moose bull and cow, Yellowstone National Park
Yellowstone’s hydrothermal features √
Old Faithful timelapse, Yellowstone National Park
Bear and bison jams in Yellowstone √
bison jam, Yellowstone National Park
You can read all about our visit to Yellowstone in Episode 1: Walk on the Wild Side
We also had some delightfully unexpected surprises. The first was when I had taken a turn driving and said, “I’ll just go to the next rest area.” Little did we know that rest area was home to the beautiful sculpture, “Dignity.”
the 50ft high Dignity (a.k.a. Dignity of Earth & Sky) sculptureon a bluff overlooking the Missouri River near Chamberlain, South Dakota
Both TG and I had the opportunity to meet up with several schoolmates along the way.
Welcome sign for TG at his grade school friend’s pub in Lawrence, KA
And many surprises in New Mexico where we spent a lot of time driving around the state during our month-long stay:
Gallup and the El Rancho Hotel
El Rancho Hotel, Gallup, New Mexico
Valley of Fires
Valley of Fires, Carrizozo, New Mexico
Gila National Forest
Gila National Forest, New Mexico
Rio Grande Gorge
Rio Grande Gorge, Taos, New Mexico
The Rattlesnake Museum in Albuquerque
Rattlesnake Museum, Albuquerque, New Mexico
You can read all about our trip to New Mexico in Episode 3: Back to the Bosque
We were also smitten with the rolling hills in both South and North Dakota and the beauty of Saskatchewan including the hoarfrost, all of the wildlife we saw while driving around, the “prairie sentinels” that dot the landscape, and the delicious Ukrainian food!
Ukrainian skuffles (a type of tiny cinnamon roll) O.M.G.
And a few final stats:
Windshields replaced: 1
nice chip in the windshield driving through Albuquerque, New Mexico
Times stuck in snow: 0
waiting for the roads to open after someone else went off the road, Yellowstone National Park
When we left Okeechobee back in September, we said to each other “at the end of thistrip, we’re either going to arrive back home saying NEVER again or let’s GO again!”
Stayed tuned … we’re already planning our next trip!
22,000-mile punchiness: “Take a little trip, take a little trip with me-ee”
After a successful detour to South Dakota’s Badlands for bighorn sheep, we continued with our original itinerary north to Canora, Saskatchewan in search of the Aurora Borealis.
Saskatchewan: Land of Living Skies
The drive through the Dakotas is beautiful – reminiscent of the Palouse Region in the Pacific Northwest with miles of gentle, rolling hills.
South Dakota
North Dakota
And – an abundance of wildlife! On our drives both north and back south, we spied multiple deer, including a large buck that crossed the road directly in front of our car, an elk, a bighorn ram, two foxes, a herd of pronghorns, bald eagles, a golden eagle in aerial combat with a peregrine falcon, and dozens of ruffed grouse and pheasants running alongside the road.
white-tailed deer (buck)
The further north we drove, the more wintery it became but the roads were clear with no traffic.
Heart Butte Dam at Lake Tschida, North Dakota
We crossed the border at Northgate,
the US-Canadian border at Northgate
Entered Canada with no delay and were comfortably settled into our cozy Airbnb in Canora by late afternoon.
We took our time getting to know the charming little town. We went to the Ukrainian Catholic Church’s bake sale for cabbage rolls and to chat with the local ladies – who were amazed that we had driven all the way from Florida with our two pups!
Welcome to Canora sign, church bake sale, Ukrainian Catholic Church
We scouted out various dark sky locations for Northern Lights — should Lady Aurora decide to dance,
the perfect place to catch Lady Aurora dancing and a cool old truck to mark the spot!
And photographed the beautiful Christmas lights on Main Street.
downtown Main Street
King George Park
One morning we drove to the Whistle Stop, a small diner in Norquay. Over breakfast, we struck up a conversation with a local couple, Livia and Rick.
the Whistle Stop in Norquay and egg & cheese breakfast skillet
Livia insisted on hurrying home for some of her freshly baked skuffles – a type of Ukrainian cinnamon roll. “I’ll be right back,” she promised.
Livia with her home-made skuffles, Rick, & TG
Sure enough, ten minutes later she was back with a package of tiny, cinnamon-sugar deliciousness. OMG!
Livia’s skuffles
Another evening we enjoyed the annual Christmas Lights Festival in Sturgis, a small town to the north. Horse-drawn carriage rides …
carriage rides through the snow and twinkling lights
Hot cocoa …
free hot cocoa
A warm fire …
bonfire
And beautiful lights …
twinkling lights
It was ♪♪ beginning to look a lot like Christmas! ♪♪
selfie at the Sturgis Christmas Lights Festival
Clouds continued to blanket all of Canada, and thus far our Northern Lights quest was unsuccessful. Who could have predicted so many nights of overcast skies?!?
100% overcast every night
But we are not ones to sit around and mope. We quickly shifted gears and focused our attention on the 90ft grain elevators that stand guard over every town.
Invermay
Historically, Saskatchewan’s economy was based on agriculture, producing a significant percentage of Canada’s wheat and other grains. Grain elevators were iconic symbols of Saskatchewan and synonymous with the province’s agricultural roots. By 1960, the number of these “prairie sentinels” had peaked at close to 3000.
Kelvington
But as farmers moved to steel silos, the wooden elevators became obsolete and expensive to maintain. They are now a dying breed; it is estimated that 10-20 are lost every year to demolition, fires, or natural disasters, and only about 300 remain standing.
Gorlitz
We wanted to capture a little of this history before it is gone forever. TG plotted multiple routes and we spent days driving from town to town, photographing the vintage towers,
TG at Pelly
Along with cool old barns, beautiful churches,
St Peter & Paul Catholic Church, Kuroki
And interesting buildings.
“Welcome to the …” (Springside)
One day we drove east into Manitoba to photograph the Inglis National Historic Site, the last complete row of vintage grain elevators in Canada, and a rare survivor of the long rows that once dominated the prairie towns.
the Inglis row
The Inglis row was built between 1922 and 1941, Manitoba’s golden age of elevators. The buildings have been preserved in their original positions and restored to original condition.
Inglis
On another snowy day, TG plotted a route that ended up with too many roads that had not been plowed. I had more luck shooting wildlife photos than he did with the grain elevators!
red fox dashing through the snow
After back-tracking twice we finally arrived at the grain elevator in Waldron.
Waldron
As we snapped away a man asked what we were doing and then invited us into his home for a cup of coffee. Our hearts — and our toes — were warmed by an hour of delightful conversation in Don and Virginia’s kitchen!
TG, Virginia, and Don
You can view all of our “prairie sentinel” photos here:
hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr
While we waited for conditions to improve, we found other interesting things to photograph. Light pillars happen on cold winter nights when there are ice crystals in the air. Lights that point straight down reflect off the snow on the ground, and the reflected light lights up the crystals.
Light pillars from the corner of Charter and George Street, Canora
Sun dogs, or parhelions, are formed by ice crystals suspended in clouds that drift in the air at lower levels. These ice crystals act as a prism, bending the light rays that pass through them.
a sun dog in Nut Mountain (around 9:30am)
And we were pleasantly surprised by all the wildlife we saw while out and about!
coyote in a field
Although I would not recommend traveling to Canada in the dead of winter just for the wildlife, we regularly spied moose, foxes, coyote, deer, and many species of birds while out on our photo safaris.
You can view all of our wildlife photos here:
hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr
And we celebrated Christmas dinner at Lynn’s, a little Chinese restaurant in Sturgis … because nothing says “Christmas” like veggie chow mein! We actually made Lynn’s a regular stop for reasonable and good food!
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
But this trip was all about capturing the Northern Lights. Our friend Janet lived in Alaska for 28 years and she had warned us that there were many winters when they never saw any lights. So, we came to Canora with high – but realistic – hopes and agreed that even onegood night would make the drive worth it. The night of Dec 22 looked promising. The skies were finally clear, the solar wind speeds had picked up, and the BZ numbers were dropping – all indications of increased aurora activity.
the night of Dec 22 was looking good!
Sure enough, our “Aurora Alert” app chimed around midnight. We bundled up and headed out to our dark-sky spot. We could see the shimmering lights before we even got out of the car, and they grew more brilliant as we watched.
Dec 22, 2022
Despite the -15° temps and 20mph wind, it was everything we could have hoped for. We both stood in awe, hearts caught in our throats as we watched Lady Aurora’s beautiful dance for the first time.
Dec 22, 2022
The next night she danced again, and we were there to capture her.
Dec 23, 2022
Dec 23, 2022
She appeared for a third night on Christmas Eve. The Christmas Lights (northern style) we had hoped to see!
December 24, 2022 (20-image pano)
“Stars don’t beg the world for attention: their beauty forces us to look up.” (Matshona Dhliwayo)
December 29 gave us a relatively weak night, but if it had been our only sighting, we would have been thrilled.
December 29, 2022
The Space Weather Prediction Center issued a G1 geomagnetic storm watch for the night of January 3, 2023. Without getting too technical this meant that, if the skies were clear, we were sure to see a show. Although we were heading back to North Dakota the following morning, we drove out to our dark sky spot at midnight.
January 4, 2023 (1:30am)
Lady Aurora’s dance was the best thus far, and two hours in the cold passed quickly.
30-second timelapse of 199 images shot over approximately one hour
She was still dancing when we returned home, and we captured a few more images above the house.
Aurora over Faustino’s Airbnb
33-image pano looking north from the corner of Charter and George Street
Capturing the Aurora is not easy. It is a ballet between the cold, the clouds, and the light. But nothing in the sky can compare to the beauty of what we saw on those five magical nights in Canora. As we watched the Lady dance, it felt at times like my very soul was being drawn out of my chest and into the stars.
“It is a ballet between the cold, the clouds, and the light” … And your camera settings!
You can view all of our “CanorAurora” photos here:
hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr
We traveled to Canada for the “Christmas Lights, Northern Style” but experienced so much more: historical grain elevators, wonderful wildlife, and beautiful, pristine landscapes. As we say au revoir, we cannot help but be enchanted by this Land of Living Skies.
Not every paradise is tropical
Coming soon: Westward Ho(ly Cow)! Episode 5: “Saw-Whet, Say What?!?”