The drive from Stewart, B.C., to Excel, Alabama, takes at least eight days and seven nights. This is too far to attempt straight through – too many back-to-back nights in hotels would not suit us or the pups. So, after our first three nights, including a quick drive through Jasper and Banff, we stopped in Ochre River, Manitoba, for four nights.
our route over 2+ months!
Ochre River, a quaint town with a population of about 1000, is strategically located just 20 minutes from the north entrance to Riding Mountain National Park, one of two national parks in Manitoba. We chose to stay at Lois’s Airbnb, a charming old farmhouse on the outskirts of town that offered a peaceful retreat and a convenient base for our adventures.
Riding Mountain National Park consistently makes the Top Ten list of things to do in Manitoba, and it’s easy to see why – the sheer beauty of the over 1,100 square miles makes it a perfect destination for nature lovers. Plus, it’s three overnights from Casa-Bama, making it a convenient place to stop for R&R while on road trips. This brief “layover” was a chance to check it out for future visits, either as a stand-alone destination or as a place to catch our breath on longer trips.
Hwy 10 looking north
Most of Riding Mountain’s visitors are there to hike, bike, or horseback ride on the 250 miles of trails. But since our visit was so short, and at the end of a two-month road trip, we chose to drive along the scenic roads.
we chose to drive the scenic roads
The Visitor’s Center, all the shops, and most campsites (hence most people) are in the park’s southern end, in Wasagaming. Once we were north of the hustle and bustle, the park was quieter, with more wildlife activity.
Riding Mountain National Park Visitor’s Center
On our first morning, we drove into Dauphin, about 20 minutes away, to stock up on the few groceries we would need for our stay. That afternoon, we checked out Riding Mountain. A considerable amount of rain had fallen in the past few weeks, and the unpaved roads were muddy. We drove the Lake Audy Road to the bison enclosure, splashing through puddles and potholes the 15 miles each way. We did not see much on the drive, and by the time we were back on 10 – the main road that runs through the center of the park – our poor car was covered in mud!
Opting for paved roads for the rest of our stay, we headed to Wasagaming and saw several deer.
white-tailed deer near Wasagaming townsite
We stopped at the Visitors Center, and as we started our journey back north, we were graced by the sight of a beautiful cinnamon morph black bear. After experiencing the chaos of Yellowstone bear jams, it was refreshing to witness such a calm encounter. She was happily grazing along the side of the road, unfazed by the few cars that had stopped to watch her. No one blocked traffic, and no one got out of their vehicle. It was a serene moment, a stark contrast to the frenetic energy of Yellowstone.
cinnamon morph black bear
Thrilled with such a magnificent sighting on our first visit to the park, we headed home, our hearts racing with excitement, to plan the remainder of our stay.
We were at the park by 6:50 the following day, and within two hours, we saw four black bears—one a cinnamon morph—and several deer.
black bear
white-tailed deer
Multiple cars drove by as we watched alongside the road, but no one stopped. We once again marveled at how “chill” Riding Mountain wildlife sightings were compared to the frenzy of Yellowstone.
cinnamon morph black bear
However, the recent rains had made the mosquitoes relentless. The moment we lowered the windows, they swarmed the car. Merely an annoyance to me, TG was instantly covered in painful bites, making photography almost insufferable. Pack your insect repellent if you plan a trip to Riding Mountain in July!
We went back for a late afternoon drive through the park. During this visit, we spied three more bears, all in the park’s northern half. In our limited experience, we had already concluded that there were two types of bear sightings: if the bear was on the move, running across the road, there was no point in stopping. That bear wanted nothing to do with us.
this bear wanted nothing to do with us!
But if she were going about the business of grazing, paying us no attention, we could stop for photos and sooner or later get the “full face” shot we hoped for.
full face black bear
We stopped at a quiet spot for a picnic supper and watched a pine marten run across the road. Our bear count was up to eight for our three visits, and although we did not see another on this trip, we were thrilled with the sightings we had and the photos we took.
If I’ve piqued your interest in Riding Mountain and you would like to plan a trip, here is an excellent article by Road Trip Manitoba. It covers everything from the park’s history to places to stay to the best hiking trails.
When TG and I first started road tripping, we quickly learned that while a 10 to 12-hour drive might get you from Point A to B, you miss a lot on the journey. Now, we limit our driving days to eight hours or less to allow for sightseeing along our route.
We left New Mexico on Wednesday to arrive in Gardiner, MT, by Friday. The second stop on our “Westward Ho II” road trip was Yellowstone National Park. When we visited the park in the fall of 2022, we had many wonderful animal encounters, but we longed to see more bears, especially cubs.
October 2022
We spent Wednesday night in Gallup, N.M., and were on the road early Thursday morning, with a planned stop at Arches National Park before continuing to Provo, Utah. But first, we detoured by Ship Rock, a dramatic 7,177-foot-high rock formation on Navajo Nation land that figures prominently in Navajo mythology. We briefly chatted with Ray, a Navajo guide who was waiting for clients, took a few photos, and were on our way.
family selfie at Ship Rock
We drove north and west towards Arches, passing by another interesting rock formation called “Church Rock.”
TG at Church Rock
And the beautiful Wilson Arch.
me at the top of Wilson Arch (almost)
Regrettably, just after Wilson Arch, our plans took an unexpected turn. We found ourselves caught in a horrific traffic jam, with cars backed up for almost 15 miles. By the time we got through, it was too late to stop at Arches. Disappointed, we continued to Provo for the night, a reminder of the importance of building in extra time!
traffic backed up on 191 between Wilson Arch and Moab
We made it safely to Gardiner the following day with no further incidents. Our suite at the Super 8 was perfect: it had two bedrooms, two full bathrooms, a comfortable living area, and a fully equipped kitchen. We could not have asked for better accommodations for the four nights we spent outside the north entrance to Yellowstone.
view from our room at the Super 8, Gardiner (yes, that’s an elk by the building)
We were out the door early Saturday morning for our first photo safari into the park. There were herds of bison, pronghorns, and elk. We spied a moose cow with a small calf and later, two bulls. A coyote hunted in a field, and a red fox sashayed alongside the road with her mouth full of breakfast.
red fox with breakfast
And much to our surprise and delight, a mama grizzly with two cubs! This sighting was lucky as they came down the hill at a pull-out, with only two other cars already at the spot. We spent a good ½ hour with them before enough people had arrived to make it an official “bear jam.”
grizzly mama and two cubs
One interesting side note about this sighting: Because we were staying at the Super 8, we could not leave O & M alone in our hotel room—they had to accompany us into the park. Typically, when people or cars are nearby, Oscar is a jerk (there’s a reason we call him “Oscar the Grouch”). But he and Maddie were quiet as church mice during the grizzly sighting. No one even realized we had two dogs in the car. The pups knew … them thar was BEARS!!
O & M quietly waiting
On Sunday, we got another early start. We arrived in Lamar Valley by 7 a.m., and just a few miles into our drive, we spotted a mama grizzly and her year-old cub across the river. They gave us a more typical bear sighting than we had experienced the day before – they were at least 200 yards away.
grizzly mama and year-old cub across the river
We moved on to the Trout Lake trailhead, where we had the close encounter yesterday. There were no bears this morning, so we slowly made our way back west. About a mile down the road, we saw our mama and the cubs coming down the mountain.
mama and cubs coming down the mountain
A bison herd grazing in the field scattered as soon as the bears arrived. We had no agenda today, so we waited and watched to see if anything happened. The bears stayed far off, almost out of reach of our lenses.
the bison scattered as soon as the bears arrived
At one point, mama lay down, and the two cubs began nursing. Although we were too far away to see much, witnessing this intimate moment was still a thrill. Afterward, both cubs were in a milk coma, and they all napped. By this time, we had been in that spot for over two hours.
mama grizzly nursing her two cubs
Suddenly, mama started coming towards us, the cubs following behind. She wanted to cross the road to the river, but people and cars blocked her. She moved further down the hill, out of our sight, and finally crossed to the other side.
12-image gif of grizzly mama and cubs
We continued west, stopping for a badger
badger
And then a coyote before coming upon a huge group, watching a mama grizzly and three cubs high on the side of a hill. They were nothing more than little dots, even with our binoculars, so we didn’t linger.
classic Yellowstone bear jam
Not much further, we spied a lone cinnamon morph black bear grazing in a field of dandelions. This sighting turned into another bear jam, so after taking a few shots, we moved on.
a lone cinnamon morph black bear
It was another awe-inspiring day in the park, filled with the wonders of nature. As we drove home, I casually told TG that although I was thrilled with all our grizzly sightings, I still hoped to see a black bear with cubs.
On Monday, we planned to make a day of it and packed a picnic lunch. The weather was cloudy and drizzly, but we managed to spy the mama and year-old grizzly we had seen the day before in Lamar Valley. We decided to drive the Dunraven Pass, a scenic road that leads over Mt. Washburn, reaching an elevation of 8,800 feet.
the drive over Dunraven Pass – lots of snow up on the mountain!
No sooner had we started the drive than we spied a black bear grazing along the side of the road.
black bear
A few miles further, we found ourselves in a classic Yellowstone bear jam. Two tiny black bear cubs were perched at the top of a tall tree, their mother keeping a watchful eye from below. Two rangers were on duty, managing the traffic and ensuring everyone’s safety. Ranger Fred shared, “Her nickname is Good Mama, but I call her Bad Mama as she’s been known to charge.”
mama watching her cubs in the tree
The cubs were challenging to photograph. They were mostly hidden by branches and were nothing more than black blobs to the naked eye. Eventually, they woke up and started to climb down. Mama moved to the bottom of the tree, growing increasingly agitated. The crowd was kept back, 75 yards or more from the tree, as cars continued to pass by in both directions.
two tiny black bear cubs high up in a tree
As the situation escalated, Mama bear signaled the cubs to climb higher, and the rangers swiftly instructed us to return to our cars. “We’re turning this into a drive-by,” Fred said, “for the good of the bears and for your safety.” It was time for us to go.
time for us to go!
Near Fishing Bridge, there is a pull-out called LeHardy Rapids. We stopped there for lunch and to photograph the beautiful harlequin ducks surfing on the Yellowstone River.
harlequin ducks (one male and two females)
We drove back to Lamar Valley, but with the on-and-off rain, it was a tough day for everyone. A lone coyote, an animal we often see around the park, had created a huge traffic jam while he sat on the ridge eyeing the crowd and wondering what all the fuss was about.
coyote
Tuesday was moving day. We stayed near Yellowstone for a few nights to get sunrise access to the park. But too many nights in a hotel room, plus riding around in the car all day, was not good for O & M – or for us. We had booked an Airbnb outside Livingston for the remainder of our time in Yellowstone.
our home for the week!
Shepherd’s Nook was a true escape from the world, miles from any sign of civilization. Our home away from home was a cozy haven, equipped with all the essentials, including reliable Wi-Fi and a washer and dryer. The only light that broke the night darkness was the faint glow from Livingston, and the stars were breathtaking!
We had been going nonstop for a solid week and needed time to recharge, so we gave ourselves a day off on Wednesday. We spent the day leisurely, enjoying the view from our apartment. Oscar was enamored with the Richardson’s ground squirrels that played outside our ground-level windows – it was like TV for dogs!
TV for dogs!
On Thursday, we returned to Yellowstone. Our goal was to spot bears, and we ended the day with five separate sightings of black bears and cubs.
black bear cub (cinnamon morph)
But the true magic was something extraordinary. A majestic black wolf sauntered through a field and crossed the road in front of us. TG swiftly drove ahead and turned into the first available pull-out. The wolf emerged over the ridge and posed in the most perfect, postcard-worthy light we could have hoped for.
a postcard-worthy shot!
After hearing of multiple wolf sightings viewed only through a scope or powerful binoculars, seeing one this close was a dream come true. The sheer majesty of the creature, with its sleek, black fur and piercing, yellow eyes, left us in awe.
12-image gif of the wolf crossing the road
Not long after that, a second wolf emerged from the river and crossed the road behind us—two close wolf sightings in as many hours!
a second close wolf sighting in as many hours!
Our Airbnb host, Judson, provided many suggestions for local wildlife safaris and scenic drives. We opted to stay close to home on Friday and Saturday to explore the nearby areas.
family selfie at Shepherd’s Nook
That evening, as if to affirm our decision, a herd of mule deer walked through the yard and down to the creek, a pronghorn appeared over the ridge, and a coyote stealthily hunted for dinner on the hillside across from our window.
coyote hunting for dinner
We spent the two days simply unwinding and immersing ourselves in the tranquility of the area, much of which we could enjoy without leaving the property.
mule deer beside Adair Creek (below our window)
To experience the beauty of Shepherd’s Nook, click here:
hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr
Sunday was our last visit to Yellowstone. We began the day with two back-to-back bear sightings, so we were off to a great start!
black bear (cinnamon morph)
Our drive took us towards Tower Falls, a place where we had previously spotted bears. However, luck wasn’t on our side this morning. Undeterred, we ventured to Lamar Valley, where a delightful surprise awaited us – the mama badger, leisurely sunbathing outside her den!
mama badger
TG wanted to take some panos of the valley with bison grazing, so we moseyed west.
Lamar Valley
We encountered a mama bear and two adorable cubs as we made our way from Tower Junction back towards Mammoth. The scene was chaotic, with several cars and people crowding the area. In a moment of pure pandemonium, the bears crossed the road between the vehicles, then reversed course and retreated down the hill.
a royal FUBAR!
We stayed back, trying to get the best photos we could. Finally, a ranger arrived and brought order to the chaos.
black bear cub crossing the road
We were happy to have one last sighting of a mama bear with cubs, but we also knew we were “done” with Yellowstone on this visit. Neither of us was comfortable with the huge crowds that seemed to have arrived overnight.
black bear mama with two cubs
We spent our last two days near home, enjoying the wildlife around Shepherd’s Nook and preparing for the next stop on our road trip.
mule deer at golden hour
great horned owl (juvi)
As we said goodbye to Montana, we were filled with profound gratitude. Between the Super 8 in Gardiner and the Shepherd’s Nook Airbnb, we spent 11 full days in the Yellowstone area. We dedicated five days to the park, spending an average of five hours per visit. While surrounded by countless bison, pronghorn, and elk, our hearts were set on spotting bears.
bison and red dogs crossing the road in Lamar Valley
And in the end, we were rewarded with 37 grizzly and black bears in 16 unique sightings, with eleven of those being a mama and cubs.
grizzly bear cubs
But the most awe-inspiring moment—surpassing even the bear sightings—was the wolf we were fortunate to encounter on June 6, 2024. It was truly extraordinary, as he passed no more than two car lengths in front of us.
wolf crossing in front of our car
It is a moment we will cherish forever.
To see all the photos from our eleven days in the Yellowstone area click below:
TG:
hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr
JET:
hover on photo to arrow through the set or click on any photo to open a new tab in Flickr
On The Road with Tall Guy & JET 