When the Covid hit back in early 2020, we thought that by the end of the year we would surely be able to fly international again. But as the months dragged on, we realized we were being overly optimistic and began to re-think our definition of “travel.”
cancelled!
In September of 2020, we bought Terrapin with the intention of exploring Florida for a year or so, driving no further than 2-3 hours away.
morning coffee out at Kissimmee Prairie Preserve State Park
We’ve had an incredible time and are absolutely thrilled with how easily Oscar and Maddie have adapted to being happy campers.
Oscar and Maddie peeking out Terrapin’s screen door
We are now almost halfway through 2021, with no more clarity about when we can use our passports again than we had a year ago. Countries that are Covid-safe are either prohibitively expensive or do not want us. Countries that will accept us pose far greater health risks than we face here at home.
Indonesia trip: 2009
And there does not seem to be an end in sight. International travel is off the table for the rest of 2021 and most likely through most of 2022.
So, we have started to look beyond Florida to the rest of the USA. There are plenty of places in this great continent that we have never been and would love to visit.
cross-country road trip!
But as much as we enjoy Terrapin, she only gets seven miles to the gallon. No big deal when driving the 35 miles to our favorite Kissimmee Prairie Preserve State Park. But when planning a 5000-mile road trip, those gallons will add up quickly.
This week we began “Phase II” in re-defining travel. We bought a 10×14 tent and headed to Kissimmee Prairie for three nights.
heading to Kissimmee Prairie for a few nights
The tent is big enough for a queen-size futon with plenty of room to spread out. If everyone were comfortable sleeping in the tent (including Oscar and Maddie), we could plan for longer distances in our much more fuel-efficient Jetta Sportwagon.
tall enough for TG to stand up inside!
Because the forecast called for daytime highs in the 90’s, we also drove Terrapin so that we could leave the pups in cool A/C while we hiked during the day. But all of our cooking, washing, and sleeping would be in the tent.
Setting up camp took no time.
plenty of room for a queen-size bed and to spread out
Once complete, we took a nap to introduce the pups to our new sleeping arrangement and escape some of the worst of the midday heat.
naptime!
Later that afternoon we rode our bikes down to “alligator alley” for some fun gator action.
alligator snapping at dinner
Storm clouds rolled in that evening and we fell asleep to the steady rhythm of the rain beating against the tent roof. Sometime after midnight we were awakened by two barred owls calling from the trees above us. “How wonderful!” I thought as I drifted back to sleep.
sleep tight!
I woke long before dawn to find TG already up. The skies had cleared and the stars were shining bright. He had set up the tripod for a star stack, which turned out quite lovely.
Tuesday morning star stack
While enjoying my first cup of coffee I heard the call of the barred owls again. I found one perched in a tree just a few yards away.
barred owl in the tree above our campsite
TG wanted to shoot the sunrise, so he took off east on his bike.
TG’s sunrise pano
I was told about a nesting pair of white-tailed kites near the primitive campsites, about 2 ½ miles west. It was a beautiful morning, cool with a thin layer of mist hanging between the saw palmettos and the treetops.
it was a cool, misty morning
On my way I saw at least a dozen deer including a shy buck,
lots of deer in the early morning!
shy buck peeking out from behind the saw palmettos
Various warblers, ibis, herons, and eastern meadowlarks.
eastern meadowlark
I also saw a large gator in a very small water hole right below the trail!
this was all I could snap before he disappeared beneath the surface
When I arrived at the nesting area, I spied a pair of swallow-tailed kites but not the promised white-tailed. But the swallow-taileds are also a beautiful bird and I was happy with the sighting.
swallow-tailed kite
That afternoon we rode our bikes back to the alligators, many of which were sunning themselves right along the trail!
not sure if he was smiling at us or just panting in the afternoon heat
We were also enchanted by the number of bobwhites out and about.
TG stopping to watch the bobwhites
bobwhite crossing the road in front of us
And I got to play “chicken” with an inquisitive yellow rat snake!
whose going to move first?!?
Although there were too many clouds to attempt any star shots that night, we did enjoy “glamping” with a freshly made pizza while listening to the night sounds.
I’d call this “glamping”
TG was up early again Wednesday morning for another star stack.
star stack Wednesday morning
I wanted one more chance for the white-tailed kites, so I rode my bike out to the nesting area.
prairie pano
Once there I found the swallow-taileds, a pair of red-shouldered hawks, crows, doves, a pileated woodpecker and even a bobwhite calling from a tree far away. But if there were white-tailed kites around, I did not spy them.
swallow-tailed kite
On of ride back, I passed a tiller coming from the opposite direction. He was getting the path ready for a controlled burn – cutting a six-foot wide swath of 3-inch deep furrowed rows in the soft dirt.
getting ready for a controlled burn
Not exactly bikeable, I walked the remainder of the way back to camp.
about a mile to walk the bike back to camp
By the time I got back, TG had already begun to break down our campsite. Rain was in the forecast and we did not fancy packing a wet tent the following morning. We finished up and headed home.
heading home!
All-in-all, “Phase II” was a success. Oscar only barked twice: once when a critter crunched in the gravel outside the tent, and a second time when noisy people walked by around midnight. If I were more awake, I would have barked, too! The pups did great and TG and I loved falling asleep under the stars, with the sounds of the night singing a sweet lullaby.
Sweet dreams!
Before Covid, I never could have imagined tent camping. But so much has changed over the past fifteen months. And, as time goes on our bucket list has also evolved. Although we would love to see the temples of Nepal, Mt. Everest, or the Northern Lights, those trips are still just a dream. Until we can safely sit on a plane for ten hours, we are content to travel where Terrapin – or the Jetta – can take us.
When we were camping in Crystal River in January, we passed Colt Creek State Park on our way north. Curious, we went back to check it out while we were driving around one day.
Colt Creek State Park on State Road 471
In 2006 it was purchased from the Overstreet family to become Florida’s 160th State Park and covers over 5000 acres of pine flatwoods, cypress domes, and open pastures.
paved, main road with open pasture and pine flatwoods
There are 17 miles of trails as well as the paved, main park road and three lakes for paddling.
Middle Lake, one of three lakes for paddling
The park even has kayaks and canoes available for rent if you don’t feel like bringing your own.
the park has kayaks and canoes for rent if you don’t feel like bringing your own
It looked good enough to book a two-night exploratory trip the last weekend in February. The family campsite is even newer than the park: it has only been open for three years and still has that “new camp smell.”
campground aerial with sites #30 and #12 marked (courtesy of park website)
The clean, well-maintained sites are laid out with plenty of room to accommodate your rig, plus picnic table, grill, and fire ring. We remarked that the campground must have been designed by an actual camper as there is more than enough space between each site and the saw palmettos provide good privacy screens.
large, well-spaced sites
Although most of the shade is slash pine trees, there is enough room to maneuver your vehicle to avoid the hottest of the morning or afternoon sun.
slash pine trees
The central bath building has separate his/her facilities each with two spacious shower stalls. There is also a stainless steel sink with hot & cold water for washing dishes,
nice sink for doing dishes
And (wait for it) … vending machines with Famous Amos chocolate chip cookies!
vending machines!
The only weird thing is the firewood. At $5 a bundle it’s very reasonable and certainly beats lugging kiln-dried from home. But the logs are stored in a loose pile in a code-locked shed near the campground entrance. Unless you’ve brought along a wheelbarrow there is no easy way to get it from the shed to your campsite.
firewood is on the honor system
The drive up from Okeechobee was uneventful, although in hindsight driving through the traffic in Bartow and Lakeland on a Sunday afternoon was probably not ideal.
a lot of Sunday afternoon traffic through Bartow and Lakeland
Even so, we arrived shortly after 3pm and were set up in our site (#30) in no time.
site #30
Andy took a nap while I hiked the nearby Flatwoods Trail. This trail is actually 10 miles long but the trailhead nearest the campgrounds is only about two miles and takes you through the woods to the southern end of the three lakes.
the Flatwoods Trail head near the family campsite
These lakes were part of the Overstreet’s rock mining operation in the 1990’s. The pits were deep enough to reach the aquifer layer and as a result, are now natural-looking lakes with numerous species of birds, aquatic plants, and animals.
the Flatwoods Trail ends at Little Lake, the smallest of the three lakes
On my way I spied a red-shouldered hawk, red-bellied woodpeckers,
red-bellied woodpecker
A raccoon, and the unmistakable “who cooks for you?” hoot of a barred owl. I tried to locate him through the trees but was reluctant to venture too far into the woods.
I didn’t want to venture too far into the woods
Cormorants and pied-billed grebes were swimming in Little Lake.
pied-billed grebe
There is a bathroom building (with flush toilet), picnic pavilion, and small parking area between the two lakes.
bathroom building (with Middle Lake beyond)
A grassy path takes you towards the third and largest, Mac Lake
the grassy path heading towards Mac Lake
which also has a fishing pier extending 75 feet out over the water.
Lake Mac fishing pier and kayak/canoe rental area
A great white egret was just finishing his meal while vultures circled overhead.
great white egret finishing a meal
I made it back to the campground shortly before dark. That night the sky started out clear and we set up to shoot some star shots.
the night started out clear
Unfortunately, the clouds rolled in early but we were encouraged by the brilliance of the stars!
Terrapin against the night sky
We spoke with a ranger later in our stay who told us that there are no lights at the fishing pier. It promises to be a great spot to set up on a clear, moonless night!
Monday March 1, we woke before dark and the light of my flashlight caught a little bunny as I opened the door to let Oscar and Maddie out. Andy exclaimed, “a March hare!”
We set out for a morning walk around 7:30am. No sooner had we hit the main, paved road when we saw a water moccasin crossing in front of us! We gave him plenty of time to slither into the brush before continuing on our way.
water moccasin (aka cottonmouth) highly venomous and very aggressive!
We took the same path on the Flatwoods Trail as I had taken the afternoon before, and I shuddered thinking about how far I had ventured on the leaf-covered forest floor!
hammock selfie
As we rounded a turn on the path, I spied a barred owl on a shaded branch. Just as quickly he flew to a nearby tree, landing in the most perfect light we could hope for.
a barred owl in perfect light!
He sat long enough for us to take a few shots before disappearing into the forest. “Thank you!” I cried as he flew away.
barred owl
There are three tributaries that run through the park including Gator Creek, Little Gator Creek, and the park’s namesake Colt Creek. An impossible shot, we spied a small group of ibis pecking in the creek that flows through the Flatwoods Trail.
ibis in the creek
On my walk the afternoon before, I had spied a brilliant blue bird with orange chest but he moved so quickly I was not able to snap a photo. As we headed towards the pavilion between the two lakes, we saw him again. I have since learned it was an Eastern bluebird. We ended up seeing several during our stay.
Eastern bluebird
Although there are signs everywhere warning of alligators and “no swimming”
“no swimming”
we spied only one small gator hiding in the lily pads in smallest of the three lakes.
one small gator hiding in the lily pads on Little Lake
We took the short-cut gravel road to the ranger station and paused to photograph a very cooperative Eastern phoebe.
Eastern phoebe
On our walk back along the paved, main park road
paved, main park road
we spied a beautiful male cardinal in the mid-morning sun,
male cardinal
We also saw common doves, a blue-gray gnatcatcher, and multiple palm warblers.
palm warbler
It was a long hike in the hot sunshine and by the time we got back to camp it was naptime in Terrapin’s cool A/C!
naptime!
Because we booked this last minute, we had to move campsites for our second night. It was a bit of a hassle but we were settled into our new spot (site #12) by 1pm. We did, however, have to walk back to the ranger station to re-check in since we had no cell service.
the paved, main park road
It was a beautiful hike with another snake crossing our path (too quick to ID), a swallow-tailed kite soaring overhead,
swallow-tailed kite
A hunting little blue heron,
little blue heron
And tri-color heron on a kiosk rooftop.
tri-color heron
On our way back to camp, we detoured through the short (1/4 mile) Mac Lake Nature Trail.
Mac Lake Nature Trail
This trail is located close to the day parking area and has interpretative signs at various spots along the way.
“those darn mosquitoes!”
interpretive signs along the Mac Lake Nature Trail
We had not decided which way we would hike back to the campsite but the hoot of a barred owl pulled us once again in the direction of the Flatwoods Trail. We did not spy him but it was a nice walk back in the cool shade of the forest.
Andy ahead of me on the trail
That night it was too cloudy to think about setting up for star shots. Instead, we just hung out at the campfire and called it an early night.
site #12 image (courtesy of Reserve America website)
Tuesday morning it was time to go home. But first, one more hike to look for the barred owl. I heard two calling back and forth – a male and a female – but did not spy them. I did however spot a pair of sandhill cranes and a great blue heron overhead,
And two new-to-me TTB’s (tiny twitchy birds): A Carolina wren
Carolina wren
And a black & white warbler.
black & white warbler
Once I got to the lakes, I was delighted to see a red-winged blackbird pecking in the lily pads and at least 17 American robins having breakfast on the lawn.
American robin
On my way back, I passed a woman who said she had just been charged by an aggressive wild turkey! I kept an eye out but did not see him.
We have camped enough now that packing up Terrapin and pointing our way towards home takes no time. We were on the road by 10am and even with a stop for gas, pulled into our driveway around 12:45.
an easy drive home with Oscar and Maddie watching the road with us
Colt Creek is a beautiful park and an easy drive from Okeechobee. And now during the winter months, the wildflowers are in full bloom!
beautiful wildflowers
wildflowers everywhere!
You can be sure we’ll be going back.
We will be back soon!
In fact, we have already booked another long weekend around Andy’s birthday and five nights later this summer.
Ever since we moved to Florida, I have made an annual trek to Crystal River to snorkel with the manatees. Winter is peak manatee season and I try to go sometime around my birthday in January. So, when we were thinking about where to take Terrapin this month, it was only natural that I would search for campsites in that area.
My Lake Camp, Hernando FL, view from RV parking spot
I wanted something close to Crystal River, but also convenient for other places we might want to explore. I found the perfect spot in Hernando: a private Air BnB-style campsite that the owners have set up on a lot adjacent to their weekend home. The property is called “My Lake Camp” and can be found on the Hipcamp website:
It offers electric, water, and sewer hook-up along with a level, concrete pad and plenty of room for a second car.
It is situated on a beautiful lake and includes a small pier, gazebo, and a fire pit. There is also a boat/kayak launch on the owner’s side of the lot. It is a perfect spot for enjoying nature and practicing landscape shots.
pano view of lake from yard
We booked four nights over my birthday week and planned to set out early Monday morning. Unfortunately, things did not work out quite as expected!
oh no!!
Car trouble delayed us a day, but by Tuesday morning we were ready to go. We arranged for a rental car in Sebring and once we picked it up, TG drove Terrapin while I followed behind in a Nissan with Oscar and Maddie.
We arrived at our campsite around midday and spent a quiet afternoon relaxing and enjoying the view.
hanging around the campsite Tuesday afternoon
A Muscovy duck was busy taking a bath,
muscovy bath
An Eastern phoebe landed in the tree above me,
Eastern phoebe
And a pair of sandhill cranes flew across the lake and landed in the yard a couple houses down.
sandhill crane fly-in
No sooner had we sat down for dinner when we heard the unmistakable “who cooks for you” call of a barred owl. Then to our utter amazement, she flew directly in front of us from one tree to the next! I grabbed my camera but it was too dark for much more than a silhouette shot.
barred owl silhouette at dusk
Even so, I was absolutely thrilled. For Tuesday WAS my birthday and I could not have asked for a more delightful gift. After dark, we turned in to Terrapin for birthday cake and a fun game of “Trekking the World.” We both made it to Australia — something we have yet to do in real life!
birthday carrot cake and Trekking the World
Wednesday morning, we had planned to drive about an hour north for some hiking at Paynes Prairie Preserve State Park. But we were completely socked in with fog.
foggy morning!
As we sat enjoying our coffee, the owl called again and we located her in the same tree as the night before.
the owl is sitting on a branch in the upper right corner of this pano
We shot more photos as we waited for the fog to clear.
we took more photos while we waited for the fog to clear
Too overcast to even think about nature photography, we decided instead on a little road trip. We piled the pups in the back of the car and were on our way.
quick selfie before we hit the road – yes I am very happy!
TG got some great shots of the vintage V.E. Whitehurst Cattle Co. gas station, a spot he has wanted to re-visit since the last time we were up this way (and it was raining).
V.E. Whitehurst Cattle Company
And I wanted to check out Silver Springs State Park.
Silver Springs State Park entrance
There is a resident troop of wild monkeys which I hoped to see.
TG and the pups waited in the car while I searched for monkeys
I did not spy any monkeys but I did see plenty of manatees in the impossibly blue water,
Silver River pano
Along with wading birds hunting at the shoreline.
ibis at Silver Springs
On our way back to camp we detoured by the Old Weirsdale Elementary School, which was closed in the 1970’s and is supposedly haunted by black-eyed children …
Old Weirsdale School (with a little help from Photoshop)
The owl was still in the same tree where we left her that morning. I called my friend Deb who was staying that night in Crystal River and she was able to make the drive over to capture a few images before dark.
she was still there when we got home Wednesday afternoon!
Thursday morning, I met up with Deb and another friend to snorkel with the manatees. I watched the beautiful, pink full moon set as I drove the half hour to Hunter Springs Park, our rendezvous spot.
pink moon setting
By 8am we were paddling to Three Sisters Springs. We could not have asked for a more beautiful day with clear blue skies and bright sunshine.
we could not have asked for a more postcard-perfect day!
Unfortunately, everyone else must have thought it was a perfect day, too, as it was very crowded for a weekday and the manatees for the most part stayed inside the roped-off sanctuaries.
me snorkeling with the manatees (photo courtesy of Deb)
manatees at Three Sisters
But we still had a great time with enough “keepers” to make all three of us happy.
Deb and me at Hunter Springs Park
The sky was clear that night and the moon very full. We did not see any owls but we could hear them calling from the trees all around us.
sunset at My Lake Camp
We spent the evening taking sunset and moon shots before a competitive game of Scrabble.
TG’s full moon shot
full moon
Friday ended up being a bonus day. We were originally supposed to leave but due to our car trouble, our hosts graciously extended our stay for one more night at no additional charge.
sunrise at My Lake Camp
We decided to check out the Lake Apopka Wildlife Drive. This is something we have wanted to do for a long time but it is only open Friday-Sundays and a long, two-hour drive from home.
We piled the pups in the car and left bright and early, stopping at McDonalds for breakfast on-the-go.
full moon setting behind Florida Citrus Center and McDonald’s
On our way, we were once again treated to a beautiful, pink moon set.
pink moon setting on the way to Apopka
The Wildlife Drive ended up being something of a disappointment. To be sure, it is beautiful and there are thousands of birds.
Lake Apopka Wildlife Drive
But it is also very crowded, with cars crawling along at 10mph stopping for every moorhen and alligator they see.
Oscar and Maddie waiting patiently in the car
There is not much that we can’t also see here in Okeechobee — and with a lot less people around!
not much that you can’t also spy here in Okeechobee!
The highlight was a bald eagle’s nest at the exit.
bald eagle on a nest
Including a fluffy little eaglet!
bald eagle with eaglet
On our way back to camp we passed a beautiful sunflower field
sunflower field
And swung through Colt Creek State Park. It looks to be a great spot and we have already booked two nights over TG’s birthday in April.
Colt Creek State Park entrance
Our My Lake Camp host, Dan, arrived shortly after we got back.
As we chatted, the barred owl flew from one tree to the next and we were able to capture a few more images in the golden, afternoon light.
barred owl in the golden afternoon sun
Just after dark, her mate landed in a nearby tree. He cocked his head at us and then flew next to her, stopping for a second before they both vanished into the night. Too quick and dark for photos, we simply thanked them for spending the week with us.
Saturday morning it was time to pack up and head home. We love camping but after four nights we were looking forward to a good night’s sleep in our king-sized “5-Star Hotel” bed at Casa Mini. Driving backroads, it took us about four hours and we pulled into our driveway around 12:30pm.
driving home via backroads
With its own owl “concierge” I was absolutely smitten with our choice for a campsite. What an incredible birthday gift and a week we will never forget!
I have always had a weakness for owls, so when TG suggested we fly north to photograph snowys, you bet I was on it! A popular spot is Plum Island in Massachusetts, where on any winter day you are pretty much guaranteed multiple sightings. But the COVID restrictions for traveling to MA are complicated and not something we wanted to deal with on a short trip.
We started looking at other areas in the US and were happy to discover that Michigan also has snowy owls, including the area around the Grand Rapids airport. Over the past 10 years, there have been dozens of sightings during the month of January alone.
Welcome to Michigan!
In early November 2020 we booked a roundtrip flight PBI-GRR, a hotel close to the airport, and an Avis SUV. I began checking the ebird sightings daily and to my dismay there were none at the airport as we drew closer to our January, 2021 departure date!
Grand Rapids airport – no snowy owl sightings!
But ebird is an incredibly useful tool and it was easy to find other “hotspots” within the general Grand Rapids vicinity. The Muskegon Wastewater Management facility looked especially promising. According to their website it’s free to enter but you must have a Visitors Pass. So, I called ahead and reserved one for the week.
Muskegon Wastewater Treatment Facility
A few notes about flying in this time of Covid. We flew Tuesday-Tuesday, avoiding potential weekend crowds. We flew in and out of smaller airports with less flights and people. We looked for connecting flights vs. direct to avoid long hours sitting on the plane. We wore N95 masks the whole time (I wore my pretty owl mask on top so was doubly protected) and never used the lavatory.
masks are mandatory on American Airlines flights, including the pilot!
We stayed at a Hyatt Place, which we already knew is doing a great job keeping Covid-safe. They space people out in the hotel and allow each room at least 24 hours between new guests. They have suspended daily housekeeping unless you request it.
view from room 507, Hyatt Place Wyoming MI
We brought our own food from home for breakfast and lunches. We went to a grocery store twice to buy things for dinner and also bought a coffee maker ($19) to avoid going downstairs in the morning. All-in-all we took every precaution we could think of to keep ourselves as safe as possible.
our $19 coffee pot (which we carried home with us!)
Our first morning we headed directly to the Muskegon Wastewater facility.
on our way to look for snowy owls!
We programmed country roads into Siri and were treated to spectacular panoramas as we drove up and down the hills of Western Michigan.
on the road to Muskegon
Michigan sunrise
Our Visitor’s Pass was waiting in the after-hours mailbox, as promised.
our visitors packet
We had no idea what to expect once we were up on the berm.
the wastewater treatment pools
The place is huge, with giant pools processing septic waste brought in by a continuous parade of big trucks.
this is a working facility!
We were told this is a working facility and the trucks get right of way.
you can stop and get out anywhere but need to make sure other cars and trucks can pass
But we were welcome to drive around any of the areas indicated on the map that was included with my packet. Some of the roads are concrete with high retaining walls that surround the actual treatment pools.
map included with my packet
Others surround what they call “dry” ponds, which are basically big, open fields. There are also two huge frozen ponds (storage lagoons), which can be circumnavigated. These all have raised dirt roads that reminded me of the levees here in Florida.
the center road between the two frozen ponds
The entire facility is around 11, 000 acres
home to thousands of birds
And is home to literally thousands of birds.
thousands of Canadian geese sitting out on the ice
According to ebird, snowy owls are regularly seen on the center road between the two frozen ponds, so we started there. About ¾ of the way down, two cars were stopped, looking at a tiny black dot out on the ice.
those tiny black dots are owls!
We quickly learned those tiny black dots are owls!
young female sitting far out on the ice
After spending some time with her, we turned back towards the entrance. TG said, “which way?” and I replied, “I feel we should go left.” This turned out to the right choice as we came upon a beautiful young female sitting on a pipe close to the road.
a beautiful young female sitting on a pipe
She stayed for a few minutes and then flew to the concrete wall,
she took off from the pipe and landed on the concrete wall behind her
Where she sat for the remainder of the day.
she sat in this same spot all day!
It was almost dusk by the time we pointed ourselves towards home and we later learned that sitting in one spot all day is typical behavior for female snowy owls.
keeping my distance (but also stretching my legs!)
Thursday morning, we were up early and anxious to get back to Muskegon.
scraping ice off the windshield: just like riding a bicycle!
We were barely on the berm when a female flew directly over us and landed on the ice to eat her breakfast.
breakfast on the ice
She didn’t stay long before flying off again, but after our experience the day before, we figured she would be in that same area all day. So, we drove down the center berm and circumnavigated the frozen ponds.
We saw red-tailed hawks,
red-tailed hawk
Thousands of Canadian geese and multiple duck species,
Canadian geese
A new (to us) rough-legged hawk,
rough-legged hawk
Gulls and bald eagles.
we saw at least two different adults and one juvi bald eagle
The Administration building has a bird feeder, and on our lunch break we snapped a few pics of the various tiny birds that flitted about.
the bird feeder at the Administration building
That afternoon “Snowy” treated us to another close sighting. This time she sat perched on top of a yellow pole against the bright blue sky
“Snowy” on top of a yellow pole against the blue sky
Before dropping down to the concrete wall below.
“Snowy” with red truck
It was another fantastic day and our memory cards were full by the time we headed for home. I joked to TG that now I wanted a pure-white adult male and to my delight he said “ok, let’s look for one tomorrow!”
somewhere north of Grand Rapids
Once back at the hotel, we checked ebird and found an area about two hours north with consistent sightings of an all-white male. We decided to head up there first thing Friday morning, again taking backroads so that we could enjoy the beautiful countryside.
sunrise north of Grand Rapids
Being from Florida, I also wanted a snowman!
snowman!
The fields in the area we wanted to search were filled with giant windmills, silently turning in the morning fog.
fields of giant windmills
We searched the power poles and although we did not find our male, we did spy another young female.
young female on a power pole
We followed her from pole to pole until we finally lost her against the white sky.
we followed her from pole to pole until …
we lost her against the white sky
When I was a kid, my mother would ask my father to stop the car whenever we passed a stand of white birch trees so she could admire their beauty. It was only fitting that I asked the same from TG as we meandered our way back south.
beautiful stand of white birch trees
Before heading to the hotel, we visited the Wastewater facility again. We found “Snowy” on her usual perch giving herself a little pedicure.
“Snowy” pedicure!
The sky was so blue and the air so crisp and clear we drove out to the center berm road and TG showed me how do shoot “starburst” sun shots.
TG shooting panos
starburst pano on center berm road
We had decided that if we got enough good photos during the week, we would reserve the weekend for friends and family. Our good friends Chris and Sandy live in Union Pier, about 90 minutes south of Grand Rapids.
Happy with our pics thus far, on Saturday morning we headed south. But first we detoured to another ebird hotspot that promised an all-white adult male: the airport in Goshen, Indiana.
Indiana detour!
We were absolutely thrilled to find him sitting in a field across the road from the airport, looking for all the world like a tiny snowman!
sitting in the middle of a field looking for all the world like a tiny snowman
He was at least 100 yards away and having had enough of our paparazzi, he flew even further into the field.
adult male snowy owl
We thanked him for the photo op and pointed ourselves towards Union Pier.
I have known Sandy for almost 20 years and was matron of honor at her & Chris’ wedding.
Chris, Sandy, Oslo, Mazie & me at Warren Dunes State Park
We were so happy to squeeze in a short visit on this trip and apart from sleeping, spent most of our time outdoors.
Chris and TG (and Oslo) on their property near Warren Dunes
They live close to Warren Dunes State Park and we spent a delightful afternoon catching up while enjoying the Michigan winter sunshine.
Chris and Sandy at Warren Dunes with Mazie and Oslo
On Sunday morning TG’s brother and wife drove up from Chicago to meet us for brunch at a restaurant that offers private, outdoor “igloos” to stay warm and also Covid-safe.
Karen, Scott, TG & me
And then it was time to head back to Grand Rapids and get ready for our last full day with the owls.
Lake Michigan
Monday was by far the coldest and dreariest day of our week. We arrived at the Wastewater facility just after sunrise and it seemed everyone was hunkered down against the cold. It took us a while to find even one owl.
our coldest day!
We finally had one fly from the center berm road to a wooden structure in one of the frozen treatment pools where she sat for a while before disappearing across the ice.
she didn’t stay here too long
TG was able to get some fantastic in-flight shots.
snowy owl in flight
The wind was bitterly cold and since we were both happy with our photos from the week, we figured it was time to head back to the hotel. We had a 6am flight the next morning and we wanted to get to bed early. Besides, after six days of driving around on dirt roads in the ice and snow, we needed a car wash!
the car definitely needed a wash!
We could not have asked for a smoother journey home in planes so empty every passenger got a full row to themselves. We pulled into our driveway around noon, tired and happy.
sunrise above the clouds
The trip exceeded all expectations, with more owl sightings than we could have hoped for, plus the chance to spend a little time with family and friends. As of this writing, it has been a week since we returned home with no sign of any sickness. It appears all of our safety precautions were worthwhile.
TG shooting panos
Travel during these Covid days is not easy. You must weigh your risks carefully. But the same night we got home, we received word that TG’s cousin unexpectedly died, someone he had been close to since childhood.
somewhere in Northern Michigan
In closing I want to share the words he posted on his Facebook page that night:
“In the midst of this pandemic, it is becoming clear to JET and me that we should balance the need for protecting ourselves against living our lives fully. Tomorrow is never guaranteed, despite today’s careful actions. Our Michigan trip was a calculated decision and we would do it again in a heartbeat. Don’t let these times paralyze you from living your life without regrets.”
“Don’t let these times paralyze you from living your life without regrets”
TG and I have visited Fisheating Creek Outpost on daytrips for both kayaking and hiking. We’ve always enjoyed ourselves so it seemed like a good spot to book for three nights over Christmas.
Fisheating Creek campground
Water levels were up and air temps warm enough to enjoy a good day on the water and another exploring the trails and campground.
we were looking forward to an afternoon kayak on the creek
But we were barely set up before we started having second thoughts. The campsites are located within 100 yards of US27, a major north-south trucking route and the constant roar was disruptive, to say the least.
the campsites are very close to US27 and a lot of truck traffic!
As if that were not enough, everyone was packed together in the sites closest to the entrance, leaving the bulk of the sprawling campgrounds empty. We felt like we were on top of our neighbors and worried about Oscar’s ability to handle strangers and dogs walking directly under Terrapin’s windows.
we worried about how the dogs would handle being so close to other campers, and Maddie wasn’t too keen on the “Studio 54” wristbands
But we were willing to give it a try. TG built a nice fire and before dinner we played a rusty, but competitive, game of Scrabble.
Pat, I’d like to buy a consonant!
Neither of us slept a wink that night. The following morning, Christmas Eve, we went for a hike on the Knobby Knee Trail.
Knobby Knee Trail entrance
Within the first few yards we accidently flushed a great horned owl and spied a beautiful, red-shouldered hawk.
a beautiful red-shouldered hawk in the morning sun
It looked to be a wonderful walk, the “alligator nest close to trail” warning notwithstanding. But the further along we went, the wetter and muddier it became. We thought it best to turn around before thoroughly soaking our hiking boots.
the trail is lovely but too wet for us to enjoy on this day
As we headed back towards Terrapin, we could hear Oscar barking. Oh-oh. So, we took turns walking along the creek. The sky was an impossible shade of blue, reflected in the calm-as-glass water and TG got some beautiful panoramas.
the sky and water were an impossible shade of blue
Fisheating Creek
Multiple herons, vultures,
a pair of vultures
cormorants, and ibis sat basking in the morning sunlight.
ibis high on a snag
TG and I have never been ones to wallow in misery for the sake of a few dollars. He likes to say, “shift your paradigm or shift your venue.” So, while I hiked along the creek he hopped on-line and found two nights available at Kissimmee Prairie Preserve State park beginning that afternoon.
We pulled up stakes and were set up in site #32 at Kissimmee by 1:30pm.
#32 at Kissimmee Prairie
We’ve been there enough times now it’s starting to feel like home and I took a short hike while TG started the fire. The forecast that night called for temperatures to dip and we wanted to be ready for the cold front.
TG starting the fire
I walked the Prairie Loop Trail into the oak hammocks. As I was about to head back to camp, I heard the unmistakable call of a barred owl. I stopped still in my tracks, waiting to hear it again.
I could barely spy him hidden in the palm fronds
Sure enough, I was able to follow the sound to a cabbage palm just as two burst from beneath the fronds and flew to a nearby oak tree.
barred owl in an oak tree
By the time I got back, TG had a roaring fire going and we enjoyed our Christmas Eve dinner by firelight.
Christmas Eve dinner by the fire
TG’s campfire
After dark, the owls started calling from the hammock so of course I went to look for them. I was past the slough when I heard, then saw, two large wild hogs. They stopped their foraging long enough to growl at me and since I didn’t fancy them coming between me and my way home, I turned around and headed back as quickly as possible.
night sky through fire smoke haze
Christmas morning, we woke up to cold and I’m not talking Floridian warm-weather-wimp cold. It was 38 degrees! We had planned on a sunrise hike but decided on a drive instead. We did not see much in the crisp, clear air but enjoyed it, nonetheless.
O & M wait patiently in the back seat!
kestrel on a snag
After we got back I wanted to look for “my” owls again, so I headed out on the Prairie Loop Trail. On my way I spied a pair of red-shouldered hawks
red-shouldered hawk pair
And an Eastern phoebe.
eastern phoebe
It took me no time to find the owl, sitting quietly in a tree above me, but the midday sun made photography challenging. I simply admired his beauty and tried instead to capture one of the three species of woodpeckers that were busy pecking away: pileated, downy, and red-bellied.
red-bellied woodpecker
I came home to a roaring fire and deer wandering around our campsite.
TG, don’t look now but …
young buck grazing in our campsite
After lunch I wanted to share the owls with TG, so we walked back to the spot. It took us a few minutes but between the two of us, we managed to spy one yet again.
our Christmas afternoon hike to the owl spot
As we watched in the golden afternoon light, two men came along the trail, speaking very loudly in Spanish. I whisper-called “Senores,tranquilo por favor, hay un buho!!” They stopped and looked where I pointed. Turns out it was a family from Miami: a dad, mom, daughter and son-in-law and the nicest people you’d ever want to meet.
barred owl in the golden afternoon light
They were as thrilled as we were to see the owl and like me, tears filled their eyes as together we marveled at this beautiful gift. To spy an owl in the daylight is rare and this was their first trip ever to KPPSP — and the first trail they had chosen to hike!
how do you say “tushy” in Espanol?
What a Feliz Navidad it was for me to share this, not only with TG, but also with this wonderful family.
together we watched as he flew away
Later that night the sky was filled with stars and the air filled with a cacophony of owl hoots and calls. I set up for a star stack, a continuous set of photos shot over an hour or more and then “stacked” together in a special program.
Christmas night: 342 images shot over approx one hour and then stacked together in the (free) Star Stax program
While my camera clicked away, I walked in the dark back towards the calls while also on guard for any lurking hogs.
little bunny on the trail
I thought I saw the silhouette of an owl on a tree limb just above the slough. A young couple happened to be walking towards me and I called “guys, I don’t want to be rude and shine this flashlight in your eyes but I think there’s an owl right above your heads.” “Oh! Shine the light,” they said, and sure enough there he sat, looking down at the three of us before flying off into the darkness.
Saturday morning TG was up for the sunrise.
sunrise at Kissimmee Prairie
deer at the park office at sunrise
Later we took another drive on CR724, the “Magic Road,” and happened upon a northern harrier. This medium-sized raptor is extremely hard to spy, let alone photograph, as it flies low and swoops across the fields.
northern harriers are so hard to spy!
But this one was close to the road and TG was able to capture a wonderful set of images.
northern harrier in flight
Back at the campsite one last chance to say Thank You and Good-bye to the owls before packing up to head home.
Good-bye, Thank You, and Mowly Christmas!
As we drove out of the park, a caracara was on the platform near the entrance
caracara from the rooftop vantage
And it was my turn to climb up into Terrapin’s rooftop basket to take a few shots.
taking advantage of Terrapin’s rooftop basket!
TG down below, checking for cars
We pulled into our driveway around 1:30pm. This was our longest trip in Terrapin to date, and we can’t wait to get back on the road again!
Until we actually took Terrapin on the road, TG and I had no idea how much we (or the pups) were going to enjoy camping. But after that first over-night out at Kissimmee Prairie Preserve State Park in November, we knew we had made the right decision in purchasing a camper.
campsite #34
We have always enjoyed our day visits to Kissimmee and since it’s so close to home, it has been the perfect spot to get used to all the ins and outs of RV life. By our third visit we had our electric hooked up, water tank filled, and a campfire going in no time.
it took us no time to set up including Christmas decorations and a campfire!
While TG relaxed by the fire,
TG’s campfire
I took a short walk on the Prairie Loop trail, which winds its way through old oak hammocks on one side and sweeping prairie views on the other, west towards the Kissimmee River.
pano on the Prairie Loop trail
The path was a little soggy in places but much to my delight, about a dozen or more robins were taking advantage of the puddle baths.
robin enjoying a puddle bath
The afternoon sun was golden and I stopped to admire a beautiful buck grazing in the tall grass.
beautiful buck grazing in the grass beside me
We drove our station wagon along with Terrapin this visit, so after dinner I took a 5-mile (each way) night drive to the park entrance. On my drive I saw three barred owls, but all were too skittish for photos. While I was gone, TG took advantage of the clear dark sky and got some beautiful star shots.
starry night view from our campsite
Milky Way from our campsite
The next morning, we were up before sunrise. It was foggy so we enjoyed our coffee indoors, snuggling with the pups until it was light enough to go for a walk.
morning sunrise over the berm
We took some shots of the very foggy sunrise,
foggy sunrise
Captured deer crossing in the eerie light,
deer in the early morning fog
And stopped to admire the flock of wild turkeys that call the berm by the dump station home.
TG capturing wild turkey jennies on the berm
By the time we were back at our campsite, the sun had burned the fog away and we were treated to a juvenile caracara finishing his breakfast on a tree snag.
caracara joining a vulture on the tree snag
Later that morning, I decided to look for the highly endangered Florida grasshopper sparrow, found only in the dry prairies of central and south Florida. They are so rare that there less than 150 in the entire 50,000-acre park.
#1 on the “Must Do” list: listen for and observe the Florida grasshopper sparrow
I saw many beautiful birds including Eastern meadowlarks, palm warblers,
palm warbler
Eastern phoebes, blue gray gnatcatchers, and even another yellow-rumped warbler.
yellow-rumped warbler
The only grasshopper sparrow I was able to spy was this blurry “POL” (proof-of-life) shot. But considering how rare they are, I’m happy I was able to capture even this!
endangered Florida grasshopper sparrow
I also saw deer bounding through the prairie,
white-tailed deer
And happened upon a “congregation” of baby alligators. Although that is the correct term for a collective of gators, I think “pile” is a much more apt description!
a congregation of baby alligators
As dusk turned to dark that evening, the air echoed with the familiar “who cooks for you?” call of barred owls. I followed the sounds past the campsite back into the oak hammock. And there he sat, on a branch right above the slough.
barred owl
He was answered by a cacophony of hoots and calls from further along the path and I headed in that direction. I suddenly heard something rustling in the grass to my left, and shining my flashlight realized I was walking uncomfortably close to two rather large wild hogs.
Feeling a bit nervous, I decided to turn around and head back towards camp. By the light of my flashlight, I illuminated a raccoon foraging in a treetop, and another large buck.
raccoon in a treetop
Wild hogs notwithstanding, I made the right decision for no sooner had I turned around than I felt a few raindrops. And then I heard it: the unmistakable roar of an approaching storm as it moved over the saw palmettos across the prairie.
I heard, rather than saw, the rain as it moved across the prairie
By now it was pitch dark so all I could do was run as fast as possible back to our campsite and the safety of Terrapin. I made it just as the full force of the rains hit.
Thursday morning, we loaded up the pups and took a pre-breakfast drive on the Magic Road.
CR724, the “Magic Road”
Ever since we first moved to Okeechobee, we have called County Road 724 the “Magic Road.” More often than not, we see something wonderful and this morning was no exception. We saw three bald eagles: two approx. four years old
4 yr old bald eagle
And a still very brown juvenile, probably about a year old.
juvenile bald eagle
We also saw two northern harriers, sandhill cranes, wood storks, great blue herons, ibis, egrets, kingfishers, red-shouldered hawks, kestrels,
kestrel
Loggerhead shrikes, mockingbirds, crows, vultures, and a caracara posing so beautifully behind some red berries it could have been Okeechobee County’s Christmas postcard!
Okeechobee County Christmas postcard!
After breakfast we broke camp and headed home, but not before stopping to capture a pair of caracaras grooming each other on top of the platform near the park entrance.
a pair of caracara grooming each other on the wooden platform
TG even climbed up into Terrapin’s rooftop basket to take advantage of the higher vantage point
TG taking advantage of the rooftop basket
While I stayed below with the pups.
Oscar and Maddie patiently waiting while we snapped our photos
We pulled into our driveway around noon, and were pleasantly surprised to have a message from the DMV: Terrapin’s customized plate was ready for pick-up. The next time we’re on the road, her make-over will be complete!
After much planning and organizing, we were finally ready to hit the road again, this time in our newly-purchased 1987 Terrapin.
on the road again with Dashboard Jesus guiding the way
We booked our first trip in mid-November: one night at Kissimmee Prairie Preserve State Park, located just 45 minutes from home. This was all new to us, so before we committed to too long of a drive or too many nights away, we wanted to make sure we were comfortable with all the ins & outs of RV life.
turn off from US441 onto CR724
But as we started coming up with places we wanted to go, we quickly found out that we weren’t the only ones with this idea. Many campgrounds are booked far in advance, especially the more popular dates and locations. If we wanted to go anywhere over the next 12 months, we needed to make our reservations as soon as possible. So before we even took that first trip, we had already booked several more dates including the Great Smoky Mountains in April.
Great Smoky Mountains image courtesy of Subparparks instagram page
One overnight does not require a whole lot of advance prep: making sure we had coffee for the morning and all necessary camera gear was about the extent of our packing.
morning essentials!
Kissimmee’s check-in is a breeze and the equestrian campsites are laid out such that you don’t feel like you’re on top of your neighbor. There is plenty of space between each and the sites are angled so that you aren’t looking straight into someone else’s tent. There are two single-occupant restrooms with flush toilet, sink, and shower stall located near the entrance of the campground area.
campground pano
We pulled into our campsite at 2pm and by 2:30 we were ready to relax.
Terrapin tucked into site #35
I wanted to explore some of the paths we rarely hike on our day visits but I could not get too far: they are still quite flooded from all the recent rains.
the paths are flooded as of this writing
So I stuck to the main gravel road.
gravel road between park office and equestrian campground
It was a beautiful afternoon and I saw many of the prairie’s “usual” residents.
KPPSP resident
Dinner was pumpkin-lentil wraps under a tree canopy …
dinner under the tree canopy
with Oscar and Maddie keeping watch over us …
Oscar and Maddie watching us through the screen door
while we watched the setting sun paint the sky pink and orange.
Just as dusk turned to dark, a herd of deer walked through our site, much to Oscar’s chagrin.
deer in our campsite!
By 7pm the skies were dark and clear, and we were treated to a spectacular view of the Milky Way and Leonid meteor shower.
night sky pano
We set up our tripods for continuous 15-second exposures and then sat back and enjoyed the stars shooting through the sky while fireflies danced above our heads. Bedtime came early after sitting in the fresh air for several hours.
Star stack (303 images taken over about 2.5 hours, then stacked together)
We woke before dawn the next morning and enjoyed sunrise coffee along with the deer and turkeys.
morning coffee
female turkeys strolling through the campgrounds
deer (again) at sunrise
After another short walk, it was time to pack up and go home.
early morning pano
morning vultures
There were a few things we forgot and notes were made on what to do different next time.
But all-in-all, our first trip in Terrapin was a great success and we can’t wait to get back on the road again!
TG and I love to travel and over the past decade have been methodically checking off international “Bucket List” trips. In March of 2020 we had managed to save enough frequent flyer miles for another trip-of-a-lifetime: first to Finland to see the Northern Lights, then on to Nepal for a trek to the Everest View Hotel, the highest hotel in the world.
our Finland/Nepal planning took up a 3-ring notebook!
And then the COVID hit and international travel was canceled for the foreseeable future. “Maybe in the fall,” we thought as spring turned into summer. By mid-August, with no end to the pandemic in sight we knew we were not flying anywhere any time soon.
But we live in Florida, a vacation destination itself, with more national and state parks than anyone could possibly visit in a year.
image courtesy of subparparks instagram page — Everglades National Park
And after that there is the whole USA to explore!
image courtesy of subparparks instagram page – Yellowstone National Park
After doing the math, we decided the only way to affordably travel with two dogs was to purchase a camper.
Maddie and Oscar on a recent road trip
The last time TG and I camped was in 1986 when we drove down to the Keys and pitched a tent.
TG at Boyd’s Campground Key West, 1986
Camper shopping is a little more complicated. How much did we want to spend? What did we really need? How big of a vehicle with how many “bells and whistles?”
Must-have’s included cabin A/C so we could leave Oscar and Maddie alone during the day, a big enough bed for two adults and two dogs, a bathroom, and a kitchen. Since we would take turns driving, we also both had to feel comfortable sitting behind the wheel.
cabin A/C a must!bathroom a must!
TG spent hours combing through the many For Sale websites and together we made several trips to check out likely prospects. Some were too used, some were too big, and some TG could not even fit his legs under the steering wheel! He’s not called “Tall Guy” for nothing!
camper shopping … this one was way too big!
And then we found her: a 1987 Terravan turtle-top with a Ford 460-cubic inch engine. She was 21 feet long with plenty of storage and priced well within our budget. She had everything we were looking for including cabin A/C, a bathroom, a little kitchen, and even a generator!
vintage 1987 adour new, used camper!
The Autocheck score was great.
the Autocheck score
And as luck would have it, she was being sold by a mechanic who was willing to customize a few things before we even picked her up including a pull-out queen size bed,
screen shot of custom bed build-out
a table big enough for both our computers,
a nice big table (that can be removed at night)
and a roof rack that will double as a night-sky photography platform.
the roof rack / photography platformhappy camper
With the name Terravan Turtle-Top it was only fitting we re-named her “Terrapin.”
new floor mat inside back door
We drove the 200 miles home to Okeechobee,
driving Terrapin home!
and dropped her off at Total Roadside to have the tires replaced, oil changed, and a few other odds & ends.
tires replaced, oil changed, A/C leak fixed, new wiper blades, new battery, sticky cruise control unstuck
While we waited, I sewed new curtains and cleaned the existing seat cushions. TG shopped for some of the items we will need while out at campsites, such as an outdoor dining table and a bike rack.
grand central sewing station!Oscar loving the clean seat cushions and pillows!
Since she’s been home, we’ve spent the last few weeks making her our own and learning our way around the cabin.
Back-up camera? ✔️
Fresh/gray/black water systems? ✔️
learning what all these little lights mean
House battery? ✔️
Propane fridge and stove working properly? ✔️
functional little kitchen at the back
Awning pulled down and rolled back up? ✔️
The next step will be sleeping in her in our driveway one night and then we will be ready take her on the road.
mattresses ready for bedtime
Our first night camping will be at Kissimmee Prairie Preserve State Park, just 45 minutes away and one of our most favorite places in Florida. We’ve always wanted to spend the night there, so we’re very much looking forward to it!
Kissimmee Prairie Preserve State Park, May 2019
We plan to spend this first year traveling around Florida and have penciled in destinations from the Panhandle south to the Keys.
ready for a road trip with Oscar and Maddie!
So, stay tuned … Tall Guy and JET are back on the road, and oh yes, Dashboard Jesus stays!
We are planning a move out of the US sometime in the next 12-15 months. We’ve considered several countries in South and Central America and although most have been wonderful places to visit, we’ve found enough reasons to think “but we wouldn’t want to live there.” Our most recent trip to Colombia is a perfect example: we absolutely loved the country, but the government is not making it easy for foreigners to take up residence.
We recently shifted our focus to the Caribbean and specifically the Dominican Republic. Having never been there, we researched as best we could the cost of living, healthcare, safety … all those things you need to think about when contemplating a move like this. On paper, the D.R. looked promising.
Tuesday – Shorthorn It Is
Our flight left from Orlando at 5am, too early to make the drive from Okeechobee that morning. We drove up the evening before and stayed the night at the Hyatt inside the airport. And I mean literally inside the airport – an escalator ride down from the lobby and you are at your gate!
relaxing in our room at the Hyatt Orlando Airport
Santo Domingo is a short two-hour flight and we were outside waiting for our ride in no time. First surprise: we had been warned that the “touts” at the airport are relentless, constantly harassing you to carry your bags or get you a taxi. Not one person bothered us as we waited for our driver, Michael.
Santo Domingo airport
Michael took us to the Radisson Hotel, our home for the next five nights.
Radisson, Santo Domingo
It is a lovely hotel with attentive staff, spacious rooms, and a wonderful breakfast buffet. It is located in the central part of Santo Domingo, convenient walking distance to many of the areas we wanted to explore.
Radisson lobby
TG had created detailed routes that included things like checking out the local grocery stores. He had also found restaurants we’d hit each day around lunchtime. Today we headed towards the Botanical Gardens but first zig-zagged our way through every aisle of a National (grocery store) and Pricemart, which is like a big Costco.
Tuesday’s route
We found the prices slightly less than the US, and the stores carried most everything we’d want. We continued our walk past the “Jardin Botanico Nacional” – a beautiful park I could spend years exploring.
Jardin Botanico Nacional
The streets were relatively clean, for the most part. There was a lot of traffic, but the drivers were courteous and more often than not, stopped to let pedestrians cross the street.
selfie outside the Jardin
Our first impressions of Santo Domingo:
No one stares at us – people are friendly and helpful
Low pollution
Very few loose dogs (we did see a few but not like in Ecuador)
relaitvely clean streets with very few loose dogs
By now we were getting very hot, tired, and hungry. And the Mexican restaurant TG had picked out was closed! As vegetarians our options were limited. We kept walking, hoping we’d spy something suitable. A steakhouse “Shorthorn” was open up ahead. It looked cool and inviting and we thought surely they’ll have something we can order. The menu offered a veggie parradilla, which we assumed was some sort of shish kabob. It was actually a table-top hibachi, piled high with still-steaming vegetables: tomatoes, onions, peppers, zucchini, mushrooms, and eggplant. Washed down with an ice cold El Presidente beer, it was perfect.
our steaming hot veggie parradillas
Refreshed and ready to go, we found our way back to the Radisson. Total mileage: 13.8 kilometers.
wall art along our walk
Later that evening we walked to a Mediterranean restaurant for dinner. The food was delicious, but it was the sign across the street that caught our attention. Yes, we both did a double take!
“The Cool Donkeys”
Wednesday – Fat Bottomed Girls
Today’s plan was another full day of exploring. Unbeknownst to us, Tuesday was a national holiday and the energy level this morning was considerably higher.
Santo Domingo on a busy weekday morning
There was a lot more traffic, including ever-present motorcycles zipping between the cars, paying no attention to the rules of the road.
watch out for the motorcycles!
There were also a lot more people out and about, but no one seemed to give us a second glance as we wound our way towards the Zona Colonial.
no one paid us any attention as we walked along
The Colonial Zone is the oldest European settlement in the Americas and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A pedestrian-only street is lined with tourist shops and stalls selling amber or larimar jewelry, gaudy artwork,
Zona Colonial street art
Zona Colonial book vendor
And Dominican cigars.
Dominican cigar roller
This street spills onto a main square, bordered on one side by the impressive Catedral Santa Maria la Menor, built in the sixteenth century and the first cathedral in the Americas.
the Catedral Santa Maria la Menor
the Catedral Santa Maria la Menor
It was a kaleidoscope of colors and sounds and we were ready to sit in a cool spot and relax for a bit.
the plaza in front of the cathedral
enjoying a cup of delicious Santo Domingo coffee
Even in this busy touristy area there were very few “touts” – no one bothered us after our simple “no gracias.” Once again, the restaurant we’d picked for lunch was closed so we headed south towards the Malecon.
heading towards the Malecon
The Santo Domingo Malecon starts at the Rio Ozama and continues west for over 14 kilometers, bordering the Caribbean Sea the entire way. The sidewalk is wide with plenty of areas to rest and so beautiful you’ll forget the bustling traffic beside you on George Washington Avenue.
the Malecon
TG dodging traffic to get the below shot
obelisk on George Washington Avenue
We stopped at Adrian Tropical for lunch. This restaurant sits overlooking the sea, with good food and even better people-watching.
Adrian Tropical restaurant
guanabana (L) and mango (R) sorbet while we people-watched
It was here that we finally took notice of an interesting aspect of Dominican culture: the appreciation of feminine curves. Even I was impressed and gave TG permission to stare!
Yes, ok to stare
After lunch we headed north to check out a language school and then zig-zagged our way back to the hotel. There is a bit of garbage on the streets and in the ocean. But as TG said, no worse than New York City. And due to the constant ocean breezes, very little smell. Total mileage: 14.8 kilometers.
Wednesday’s route
Craving traditional Dominican food, we ate dinner at Pepito’s Arepa Bar – a delightful spot close to the hotel with plenty of vegetarian choices.
avocado and black bean arepa from Pepito’s
Thursday: Beaches and Whales
Roughly the same size as the state of Georgia, the Dominican Republic has a lot to offer. The middle of the island contains the highest mountain in the Caribbean and the north coast has some of its most beautiful beaches. In addition, humpback whales gather in Samana Bay during the winter months to mate and calf.
Samana town with whale sculpture
Today we had arranged for Michael to drive us to Samana Bay and the northern beach of Las Terrenas.
on the road with Michael
It was a beautiful drive through the mountains, with very little traffic and excellent roads. With an 80 kph limit (and hefty fine for speeding), no one goes very fast. We arrived in Samana in a little over 2 ½ hours.
the road through the mountains
If you aren’t going out on a whale excursion there isn’t a whole lot to do in town.
Samana Bay pano
Samana whale excursion boats
After taking a few photos we headed towards Las Terrenas. This is a typical touristy beach town, with plenty of shops, hotels, vacation rentals, and people.
the beach at Las Terrenas
the beach at Las Terrenas
Even so, we found a quiet spot for lunch.
our lunch spot
On our way back to Santo Domingo we stopped at a beautiful mirador to admire the northern coast. While we watched, a whale splashed his tail in the water far below us.
the north coast of the Dominican Republic
selife at the mirador
Michael dropped us off at the Radisson around 5:30pm after another full day.
Friday: Santiago es Arte
Today we drove north through the mountains to Santiago de los Caballeros, the second largest city in the D.R. It was a beautiful drive and gave us a taste of interior of the country.
the road to Santiago
the road to Santiago
Santiago is one of the D.R.’s cultural, political, industrial and financial centers. Due to its location in the fertile Cibao Valley, it also has a robust agricultural sector and is a leading exporter of rum, textiles, and cigars.
Catedral de Santiago, built in 1895
plaza next to the cathedral
We found it to be a vibrant bustling city, full of beautiful murals on its buildings, walls, and fences. A poster exclaimed “Santiago es Arte!” And as we drove around it certainly seemed to be.
murals all over the city
Santiago is Art!
murals on every street
Although we liked it very much, we determined it was not quite right for us. We prefer to live along the coast and the Santo Domingo Malecon was calling us.
Saturday: The Accidental Hagglers
On our last day, we decided to re-trace the same route we took on Wednesday but walk the Malecon first. The ocean was calm this morning and that impossible shade of blue that is the Caribbean Sea.
the sea was an impossible shade of blue
We zig-zagged our way though the neighborhoods, past small houses with windows open to the street, beautiful high-rises, and private homes hidden behind high walls.
window washers on ladders (!!) approx 20 stories up
We hadn’t planned on too many purchases, but I always like to pick up a little something for our dog-sitter. We headed back to the Zona Colonial with its many tourist shops.
pano of the old city wall of Zona Colonia
more street art in Zona Colonia
I wanted to buy an amber necklace and some mamajuana, the local drink purported to have all sorts of medicinal properties including being an aphrodisiac. TG was taken with the local baseball team, Los Tigres del Licey, and wanted a cap.
We found a shop selling everything we wanted. The shopkeeper gave us a price, saying “todo” or “all.” TG gasped, misunderstanding her and thinking she said “solo” for just the necklace. She asked well what do you want to pay? Again, assuming it was for just the necklace I quoted what I thought was a fair price. After some furious pecking on her computer she agreed to a new, much-discounted amount.
shopkeepers in front of the mamajauna display
We drove a hard bargain without even realizing it. We would have paid her original price had we known it was for everything! Total mileage: 16.6 kilometers.
the accidental hagglers
For our last night in the D.R. we had dinner at the hotel restaurant. It was my birthday on Sunday so of course TG told them. They brought a little cake with sparkler and the waitstaff sang “Feliz Cumpleanos.”
feliz cumpleanos!
Happy Birthday indeed.
my birthday dinner at the hotel restaurant
Sunday: Home Again Home Again
Sunday morning, we were up bright and early for our 7am ride to the airport. It was an easy flight home and we pulled into our driveway in Okeechobee at 1:30pm.
waiting for our flight (and checking birthday messages)
The Dominican Republic surprised us: the friendly people, the solid infrastructure, the ease of getting around, and the security and well-being we felt walking through the different neighborhoods. It’s a beautiful country with so much to offer in terms of natural beauty: ocean, beaches, mountains, and whales! It seems everyone has a friend or relative who has either lived in the US or is married to an American. In our experience walking for three full days and driving for two, we found that Spanish is a must – perhaps 5% of the population speaks English with any fluency. Even so, there is a strong tie between our two countries and the people seem genuinely pleased to see “Americanos.”
beautiful young girl in the Zona Colonia plaza
We are hard-pressed to think of a good reason to NOT move there!
We are planning a permanent move to South America sometime in the next 12-15 months. Over the past ten years we’ve traveled to Peru twice and to Ecuador more than a dozen times. But recently Colombia has risen to the top as a place to consider, in particular the city of Medellin.
As luck would have it, I connected with a classmate of my older brother who moved to Medellin about five years ago. Janet proved to be of invaluable help. She put us in touch with Angie, a professional driver who knows the Medellin metro area better than anyone. TG had already spent countless hours researching potential neighborhoods, and between them they put together an itinerary that covered as much ground as possible in our six-day visit.
Medellin valley
Sunday: Running on
Fumes
Our flight left FLL at 7am, and we are a two-hour drive from the airport. That meant we were up at 1:30am for the drive from Okeechobee. After an uneventful flight, Janet and Angie met us at the airport and we took off running.
That afternoon we had planned to explore the suburbs closest to the international airport. First stop, the delightful little finca town of El Tablazo. A “finca” is a small farm and the surrounding area was indeed picturesque and pastoral. From there we drove through Rionegro, Zona Franca, and San Antonio Pereria. The townhouses and parks were charming with lots of open, green spaces.
We were already beginning to fall in love with Colombia. After a quick lunch at a local chain “Crepes and Waffles” (quinoa and kale salad!), we headed towards Medellin via the suburb of Guarne. We felt it was a bit crowded for our taste but did manage to spy one interesting little apartment: a 3 BR, 2 bath for one million pesos per month. (about $310)
Angie inquires about the rent
By now it was getting close to 4pm and we were fading fast. As Angie drove into the city, we got our first glimpse of Medellin. With a population of about 2.5 million, it sprawls through a narrow valley surrounded by mountains. The view from the road is spectacular.
our first glimpse of Medellin from the road above the city
Janet had recommended the Hotel Asturias in the upscale neighborhood of Laureles. It is located on a quiet side street, close to shops and restaurants, and also near her apartment.
Hotel Asturias
Our room was tiny but comfortable and extremely quiet.
our small but comfortable room
A full breakfast with plenty of fresh Colombian coffee is included in the nightly rate.
full breakfast buffet
Monday: Old Friends/New Friends
Angie picked us up at the hotel promptly at 8am and drove us
to Janet and John’s apartment. It is a
beautiful 4 bedroom on the 8th floor, with gorgeous views from every
window.
the view from Janet’s kitchen
There is also a rooftop terrace with 360 views of the city.
the view from the rooftop terrace
Then it was off on a whirlwind tour of the neighborhoods. We covered Belen, which sits against a hillside park called Tres Cruces, or Three Crosses. This is a popular hiking spot for folks in the city with many tall high-rise buildings. After driving around some, we stopped in a “Home Center,” which is a bit like a Home Depot and Bed, Bath & Beyond all under one big roof.
We priced everything from coffee pots and dishes …
16-piece dish set on sale for approx $65
to refrigerators and washing machines.
stacking washer/dryer approx $1,100.00
After lunch in the vibrant town of Sabaneta, it was time to visit another new, old friend.
Quinoa, falafel, kale, goat cheese, and avocado salad
Although Janet and I were years apart at school, we bonded instantly. Because of our common background I felt like I had known her forever. Another classmate of my brother’s is also living in Medellin and wanted to meet us. Barb lives in a long-term care facility with a full-time private nurse, and besides meeting Barb, we felt this would be the perfect opportunity to visit such a place without sitting through a sales pitch.
Barb’s long-term care facility
It was beautiful – with none of the “old people/disinfectant” smell you might expect.
swimming pool on the inside terrace
Barb’s room opens onto a tiny garden with hummingbirds flitting about. It was charming. Monthly price for private room and full-time nurse: $4000. Barb smiled when she met me. She said, “your brother was a real hoot!” Yes, he was!
me, Janet, and Barb in her tiny patio garden
We drove through more city neighborhoods and then dropped Janet off at her apartment. We kept going on to Bello, which is in a lower-income and a bit edgier part of town. We came upon literally miles of young people lining the sidewalk on either side, the crowd and noise growing larger the further along we went. Angie finally asked a taxi driver what was going on. “A free Metallica concert!” he said.
what is going on?!?
We kept driving, further out of the city: Las Cabañas, Copacobana, and finally Girardota.
the cathedral in Girardota
Then up and up into the surrounding hillside.
the hillside surrounding Giraradota
We passed a group walking up the hill. Angie said, “that one in the blue shirt is American” and promptly stopped to say hi. Sure enough, Rob is from Utah and lives part-time in his beautiful hillside casa outside of Girardota. He invited us in to see the property – a big 4-bedroom house inside a walled garden with a pool. The view from his upper balcony was spectacular. He offered to rent the house to us for $700 a month. We exchanged emails and promised to keep in touch.
Rob’s view
By now it was almost dark, and we hit rush-hour traffic
heading back into the city. We were too
tired to go out – we noshed on fruit and cheese from the local grocery store
before calling it a night.
rush hour in Medellin … the motorcycles are insane!
After two days we wrote down some of our first impressions
of Medellin:
Friendly
Welcoming
Clean
Well-maintained
streets with very little litter
Very “First
World”
Corn (in
everything)
Excellent
coffee
Hilly
Confusing
streets with little signage – easy to get lost if you don’t know where you’re
going
Mostly beautiful but with a few dodgy parts
Beautiful
women who are very proud of their long hair
Tuesday: Flowers,
Wood, and Waterfalls
The plan today was to drive south and east out of the city into the flower region.
on our way to La Ceja
This area sits at a higher altitude than Medellin and the air was much cooler as we drove up the mountain.
on the road to El Retiro
We passed through the towns of Las Palmas and El Retiro, both of which are notable for their woodworking.
the quaint, charming streets of El Retiro
Shop after shop lined each side of the road as we wound our way towards La Ceja, with many this time of year selling wooden Christmas trees and other holiday decorations.
one of many woodworking shops alongside the road
On the way we stopped for a quick photo-op at a beautiful waterfall, Tequendamita Falls.
Tequendamita Falls, El Retiro
The greenhouses in La Ceja spread out across the valley. The town itself sits surrounded by mountains on all sides. It felt very quiet and peaceful – possibly made more so by the numerous seminaries and convents scattered throughout the area.
La Ceja greenhouses (courtesy of Google Earth – it was too foggy to see anything the day we were there!)
We wanted a typical Colombian lunch so on our way back we stopped at Kioskos for patacones and “Frijoles Triple Ah” (Triple AAA): beans with arroz (rice), avocado, and arepa.
a traditional Colombian meal at Kioskos
Angie taught us the proper way to eat the small, dry cornmeal cakes: piled high with fresh avocado and a liberal dash of salt!
Then we checked out a house we had found on-line in an
exclusive Rionegro neighborhood. It
turned out to be in a gated community with a no-nonsense guard. Angie disappeared for a few minutes and came
back smiling with a set of keys. We were
able to go inside and see how much house you can rent for 3.9 million pesos a
month (about $1200).
this is what $1200 a month in Rionegro can get you
Dinner that night was at a Peruvian restaurant very close to our hotel. Maybe it was because we’ve been off rice and potatoes for so long, but dinner never tasted so good!
Peruvian potatoes to die for!
Wednesday: To Market to Market
Today was our first free day and we planned to spend it comparison shopping at the grocery stores and market. While I enjoyed a cup of coffee and reminisced with Janet, Andy took our regular weekly shopping list to the store and priced everything – apples to apples (or should we say papaya to papaya). We found, for the most part, that prices are far below what we would pay Stateside for the same items.
guanabana (soursop)
After my visit with Janet we walked to the local produce market. Here the fruits and vegetables are even cheaper as you are buying directly from the farmers.
fresh produce at the market
We searched for kale with no luck. We didn’t know the Spanish word, and no one could understand what we wanted. Finally, one of the vendors asked another shopper who could speak English. She had no idea but typed it into Google Translate. The translation came back “kah-lay.” Of course.
herb and spice vendor at the market
After the market it was time for lunch. We walked back towards our hotel and stumbled
upon a delightful little place called “The Art of Pizza.” The walls and menu were decorated with
classic masterpieces, except with a pizza twist.
The Art of Pizza
TG’s veggie pizza was indeed a work of art and as a friend said “For $8! How can you go wrong?”
TG’s veggie pizza
Well, apparently you can go very wrong. I made the mistake of insisting on ordering in Spanish. I could read ensalada, aquacate, and queso (salad, avocado, and cheese). As a vegetarian it looked divine. What I failed to translate was the word tocino and the salad came buried in it: BACON! Too embarrassed to order anything else, I nibbled a few bites of TG’s pizza and looked forward to dinner.
my tocino ensalada
We wanted to check out an apartment we had found on-line so after lunch we continued our walk. We found the apartment but then got totally turned around. As soon as we passed the porn shop, we knew we were heading in the wrong direction. Fortunately, Janet had given us a map of the area and we quickly straightened ourselves out. Not, however, before logging 15,000 steps on my Fitbit.
Janet’s map
That night we had arranged to meet Janet and John for dinner. It was a delightful evening getting to know
them both as well as picking their brains regarding their move to Colombia and
their impressions of Medellin.
John, Janet, me and TG
Thursday: The Business of Coffee
Welcome to Fredonia
When we parted ways with Angie on Tuesday, she had given us three options for today: Fredonia, Santa Fe Antioquia, or Barbosa. All three towns are in opposite directions, and we only had time for one. “Research and let me know” she said. We settled on Fredonia, located in the coffee region south and west of Medellin. This turned out to be the best decision we could have made. We were literally on our way to heaven.
the road to Fredonia
The hillsides are lush and green, with coffee plantations scattered about. Mountains grow tall inside the deep valleys and the air smells fresh and sweet.
coffee farms on the hillsides
This time of year, the coffee berries drip bright red against the dark green leaves.
ripening coffee berries
The quaint town of Fredonia sits on a steep hillside with the
ubiquitous cathedral towering over the center square.
the Fredonia cathedral and town square
We stopped in a small shop to purchase some of the locally grown coffee: Café Don Chucho.
Cafe Don Chucho
TG, Angie, and Janet
Francisco Javier (Don Chucho’s son) has the nicest smile you’ll ever see and a warm personality to go along with it.
TG and Francisco Javier
After our coffee his wife escorted us to an upstairs restaurant overlooking the cathedral and square – a place we never would have found on our own.
Francisco Javier and his wife
Angie ordered without a menu: traditional Colombian food similar to what we had at Kiosko’s on Tuesday.
the view from our lunchtime perch
Although Fredonia is at the beginning of the coffee region, we were still in Antioquia, in an area called Sur oeste, or the Southwest. “Here begins the business of the coffee” Angie said.
Fredonia countryside
Friday: The Four Elements of Rap
It was our last full day, and we had covered everything we wanted to see. As much as we loved Fredonia, we realized it was too far from Medellin to seriously consider for our new home. We want to find a quiet place close (but not too close) to the city, a short ride to the airport and where we can walk to the markets and shops.
the cable car above the San Javier metro station
So, we decided to do something touristy that afternoon. We made a reservation with Free City Tours for a tour of comuna 13. Colombia is a country of resilience and no place embodies that quite like comuna 13. Until the late 1990’s, this community was considered The Most dangerous in the world. Around that time, the people took control of their neighborhood and turned it into a place of hope, peace, and beauty.
pano view of comuna 13
The focal point of the tour is the area around the escaleras electricas, the outdoor escalators that provide access to homes in barrios high up on the hills and formerly isolated from the city below.
TG on the escalera electrica
The area is awash with murals and graffiti, while at the top there is a lookout and boardwalk offering beautiful views of the bustling city.
view from the top
We met at the San Javier metro
station and then together took a local bus up the winding hillside to the start
of the tour: the U.V.A., or local
community center. This place, located
next to a new high school, provides art and sports classes for children and
adults. The words on the building’s
exterior represent everything the community reclaimed as their own: things like “honor”, “justice”, and
“respect.”
the exterior wall of the U.V.A.
In order to fully understand the violence and difficulties that have plagued this area and its impressive reformation, it’s best to go with a local guide. Our guide, Alejandro, was born in comuna 13 and his family was forced to flee during the worst of the violence. His uncle and cousin were killed, accused of being part of the “guerrillas” or drug dealers. His eyes glistened with tears as he told us about this difficult time and the transformation of his town.
Alejandro and our group
We started up the hill.
heading up the hill
Alejandro said he had some surprises for us and a short way up he gave us the first: ice cream popsicles.
the ice cream popsicle shop
I tried the avocado and TG had the soursop. We found them both creamy and delicious.
avocado ice cream: creamy and delicious!
ever-present motorcycles even on the steep hills of comuna 13
Up more stairs to a coffee museum
where we were shown the proper way to make Colombian coffee (NEVER add sugar!)
and then were each given a sample cup.
sampling traditional Colombian coffee
After coffee we stopped at the beginning of the six escalator sets for freshly made (and piping hot) empañadas. Still eating, we ducked into another small coffee shop and enjoyed a shot glass of cold coffee-lemonade. It was interesting and refreshing.
Bill Clinton even visited this little coffee shop
While there, we were treated to our third surprise: a short rap concert by two local musicians, who each performed an original song. One of them sang to me; I think he was saying I had a nice smile, but it could also have been that my hair is gray.
comuna 13 rapper
Up more escalators to a lookout
point and our last surprise of the day:
a break-dance performance by some very talented young men.
break-dancers
All along the way, the walls of buildings are covered with murals and graffiti – so many that it’s hard to take it all in!
At the top of the hill, Alejandro stopped to explain we had just experienced the four elements of rap: art, music, poetry, and dance – which is the true spirit of comuna 13. He said “Don’t ever stop dreaming. Let comuna 13 be your inspiration – you can do anything you set your mind to. Live your life every day like it is the last.”
“Live your life every day like it is your last.”
He gave us each a friendship bracelet made with Colombian colors and we said our good-byes.
friendship bracelets
We re-traced our steps back to the bus stop and San Javier metro station where we caught a taxi for our hotel. It was truly a memorable afternoon.
me, Alejandro and a random street kid photo-bomber
On our last night we enjoyed
another traditional Colombian dinner at a nearby restaurant, Mondongo’s. By now we were old pros with the patacones,
arepas, avocado. But a banana?
The grinning waiter explained that bananas go in “everything!” “Add it to your beans, put it on your patacones, anywhere!” he said gesturing across the entire table of food.
Saturday: Home Again Home Again
Saturday morning Angie’s husband, Jorge, took us to the airport via the tunel. At five miles long it is the longest tunnel in Latin America and connects the city to the international airport in about 18 minutes.
the tunel
It was a short, easy drive and we arrived in plenty of time to stop at the duty-free shop and catch our flight back to Fort Lauderdale.
“It’s Colombia, not Columbia”
Medellin ended up being everything we had hoped for and then some. Our research into South America is not yet complete, but it will be hard to find a better place to live. Many thanks to Janet, John, and Angie for making this such an extraordinary week! “Hasta pronto, Medellin.” See you soon.